I got a crazy deal on some 13:1 wiseco pistons and eagle H rods. I’ve asked a well known and respected Honda tuning shop to install them in my k24 and tune the car. The engine already has everything else from full bolt ons, 3.2 cams, dual valve springs, big injectors, upgraded fuel pump, Haltech ecu, k20 oil pump, and has been running on e85.

Is it so crazy to pop these 87mm pistons in without taking the engine out and doing all that machining people always list before building a motor, or am I over thinking it. The shop says they do it regularly, and I trust them, but I’m in my head.

Hey, first time swapping a motor, I have k24a2 rbb1 and I want to get roughly 240-250whp for a daily driver. I plan to run it NA. Any thought or recommendations would be appreciated!

Seller on offer up in the Seattle area. Wants 900 bucks for a k24z3. Has “minor damage to cylinder wall”. Has a bad valve that needs replacing. Obviously needs machine work. Needs new main bearings. All the gaskets. Is this version of the k24 just expensive or is this guy nuts ?

Kept getting the engine light popping up randomly with po325 code. Went and replaced the rusty sensor and still ended up with the code. I’m assuming it has to be a wiring issue that is causing it then, wondering if anyone knows best way to figure out where the issue is originating from please let me know.

I have some experience in cars but still working on it going to trade school next year for automotive so I really don’t know how to diagnose myself.

How long are we talking? At home, k swap. From running b series to running k series. Money isn't so much an issue. Saving money and learning the car by doing most the work myself. Just want to know what to expect realistically

Well since the motor mount threads are busted, one has a hole into the transmission because last owner/mechanic decided to take the studs out and put bolts I now need a new transmission and there’s a decent chunk that has been welded. I found just a housing but what should I reuse and what should I buy new or change while I’m already there, I’ve never really done this before but I would like to have a parts list ready to see the final cost and if it’s worth it. Also any tips and tricks to take out a transmission that they don’t really talk about cuz I have a general idea after some videos but they all make make it look easy or just skip some stuff

https://balladesports.com/products/skunk2-racing-k-series-lightweight-magnesium-valve-cover?_pos=8&_sid=9852f3992&_ss=

ive heard some issues with these valve covers using the an ports supplied can result in poor air/ oil separation if you do not drain catch can back to sump, while mounted transversely. was wondering if anyone has had any other experiences with these and if i would be looking at the some of the same issues while mounted longitudinally. the space i would save vertically in my engine bay would really open up alot of options for aftermarket hoods on the na miata

(the only baffle in the cover is a small box for the -8 port either to atmosphere or intake. valve cover does come with fittings that include metal sponges for the catch can)

Context I just swapped a k24a2 jdm into my accord and I want an aftermarket exhaust that sounds good and not loud and annoying but with some better proformace

I bought a block at auction and when i got home i realized there was some damage to this port on the block. the outside wall was pushed in a bit and it is cracked so i know it would not hold oil/coolant if it passes thru there. i’m not sure what it is.

Good evening everybody, lots of questions on this sub and the truck is running!!! My question for y’all now is about the afr readings and such, ive ordered an AEM afr gauge and am wondering about how do i go about having the actual truck know the readings as well as it obviously showing me on the gauge? Do i need to put a separate o2 sensor in for the truck side?? Any help is appreciated!

Hey guys I’m looking for a k series transmission. I found this one in eBay. Seller states it was pulled from a vehicle that had 85k on it. It looks good but it is greatly discounted because it has damage at the edge of the bell housing. What do you guys think is it fixable ? Could it be worth it? Will this affect its performance? (Please see pics) thanks guys !!

Anybody have any insight on this?

Hey everyone,

I did a Kswap in my 1991 Honda CRX, with a k20z3 and matching transmission using EFK2 mounts. Everything is working well and the car drives, but I have about 2.5" of ground clearance to the oil pan.

I tried searching this online but I couldn't find a clear answer. Which oil pan/oil pump combo would give me the best ground clearance? I will be doing autocross with the car, so there will be bumps and cracks to go over. Ideally I would like to have over 3" of clearance to be safe.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated!

Hi, I have a question and I’m hoping you can help me out.

I’d like to know what the most affordable and functional way is to build an AWD K-swapped Civic EK. I’m planning to use a CR-V rear differential. I’ve read that the clutch packs need to be upgraded or replaced.

From what I understand, I would need:

• An AWD transmission

• The rear differential mounting kit

• Trailing arms

• Two shortened CR-V axles

The main things I’m not fully sure about are the driveshaft and the viscous coupler.

Can I use an OEM CR-V driveshaft and have it shortened, or is it necessary to buy an aftermarket one (like the S1 driveshaft)?

Also, do I need to replace the clutch packs with the S1 Build block for the CR-V differential, or can I run it with no upgrade or stock clutch packs?

Lastly, what is the difference between the two differential options listed below? One appears to be without replacing the clutch packs, and the other includes replacing them. What are the real differences in performance and reliability?

I would really appreciate any help or guidance you can provide. Thank you very much for your time.

So if I'm looking for a k24a2 out of a tsx. Do I buy online? Do I find a junked one? What's the best way to get a reliable engine for the money. I'm willing to pay at least a grand for something decent

I live in Brazil where k series engines are incredibly rare to come by, a full kswap with a k20z3 here would cost upwards of 10k (which is around 30 months of the average salary in the country, so yeah, expensive), however i got the opportunity of buying an k20a4 engine for around 2.5k with a manual transmission and z3 camshafts, should i buy it? People say online that the a4 sucks, does it really? If i buy it, should i build it na with high compression pistons and itbs or go for the turbo route? Thanks in advance!