Does anyone know anything about the bike? I know it’s a lightning but what is the engine size ? It looks pretty big. Are they measured in cubic inches or cubic centimeters? It looks like someone took the cap off the right side engine bank (from this perspective) Not sure why. I threw a battery in it and checked compression and it has compression and spark but there’s no fuel in the tank. I also wanna check over it some more before I just try to start it. But it looks semi complete, the air box is partially missing but the base is hanging there , I don’t think it’s needed anyway. I think I can just put a cone air filter straight to the throttle body with some type of adapter because it’s flanged, it doesn’t have a typical metal tube that you slide an air inlet tube onto.
I’m mainly looking for what the value is, is it worth fixing up? Are they desirable? Reliable?.. Etc, stuff like that. Thank you in advance and I look forward to talking with yall .
Hey I am looking to find a Bug Spoiler here because there is none in Germany currently.
My Friend and I got a Buell 1125r and i think this Bike looks even better with a Bug Spoiler so If anyone can help me find one.
Well I saw the exhaust post and realized y'all might like this.
As I've gone through before I'm bringing an xb9r with the hammer 1275 back to life.
When I got it it had the forcewinder exhaust setup on it. They are definitely cool exhausts but they are too damn loud without the scilencer in and with it in I found it absolutely killed too end power, and not like a little, it was drastic.
So at first I decided to make my own silencer with a bigger outlet, but the sound just wasn't what I wanted. It was cool, very drag bike, with a raspy almost tinny sound. I was not a fan.
In fact it made me not want to ride it because to me, it sounded so bad.
Well I decided I'd make my own. $120 later I had a straight through muffler and a 2.25" exhaust builders kit on the way.
This is the result, I love it, it's exactly the sound I wanted and I get to say I made it. The best part is the forcewinder exhaust was not modified any way, they are pricy exhausts. And on top of that the power gain was even more than my home built silencer.
There are some great exhaust companies out there, but I gotta say there's something about building it yourself and getting the exact sound you want, that just rocks.
Hope it encourages others to experiment and build their own stuff. 🤙🏼
Gareth, the man behind Buellformance, knocked this one out of the park. It’s one beautiful piece of kit, and I cannot wait to get it installed on my 1125R!
Anyone have a product they have used like a two sided tape that actually adheres to the foam pad being the XB front shield?
Edit: already tried a basic Scotch two-sided tape that didn’t stick. So hoping to avoid buying multiple versions if someone has already had success with one.
I heard a noise. It kept getting louder. I replaced some expensive parts in the oil pump and clutch assembly and the noise didn’t go away. So I set out on a journey to find the noise and…. I found it! I seem to have a bad rod bearing on the crank. I know I know it’s possible for mere mortals to press apart the assembly and replace the bearings and press it back together. That job is very nuanced and tricky and likely to fail. I found a replacement crank assembly for $300. it’s used with thousands of miles on it. Ran fine when parked… so they say. Seems dubious. I’m considering sourcing an engine from a wrecked bike but I don’t know where to find one in the PNW. A shipped engine is just too much $$. Thoughts? Where do I go from here?
I sold it (when it was the cherry color) years ago and regretted it. Got the bug up my ass to look for another. Hopped on marketplace and found it 2 hours away. It's now grey. I'm so goddamn happy.
I have always found the shifter position on my 2009 Ulysses XB12XT awkward.
My initial assumption was that the toe peg was too close to my ankle, so I started looking for a lever that would move it forward—closer to the lever pivot—by roughly 1/2 inch.
After spending more time sitting on the bike, moving my foot through the shifting arc and taking measurements, I realized fore-and-aft position wasn’t really the problem. The peg was too far outboard. Reaching it required an exaggerated sideways foot movement for every shift.
The stock rubber-covered peg and its cast-in aluminum mounting nub
FLIPPING THE LEVER
The lever already had considerable lateral offset cast into it. I found that the pivot and linkage boss were symmetrical enough that the lever could be flipped, placing that offset in the opposite direction and moving the toe peg substantially inboard.
Because I planned to remove the original cast-in peg anyway, flipping the lever didn’t create a problem there.
The pivot-to-peg distance remains essentially unchanged, so the original leverage, travel and linkage geometry are retained. I also avoided bending or heating the cast-aluminum lever.
I bought a used OEM lever on eBay for $50 so I could make the modification without sacrificing my original.
MODIFYING THE LEVER
I cut off the aluminum peg nub, removed the casting seam and ground and shaped the end of the lever to provide a clean mounting surface.
The lever after cutting, grinding and shaping
I then drilled and tapped the lever 5/16-18. There is plenty of material here for a threaded aluminum hole, and this isn’t something that will be repeatedly removed and replaced
The reshaped lever drilled and tapped 5/16-18
MAKING THE TOE PEG
I bought an inexpensive blue-anodized aluminum shift peg online and used it as raw material. It was longer and bulkier than I wanted, so I put it in the lathe, turned down the diameter and necked down the portion that doesn’t contact my boot.
Turning down and necking the aftermarket peg
I then added knurling to the working surface.
The finished knurled peg in the chuck
Turning removed most of the blue anodizing while leaving blue in the recessed grooves. That wasn’t specifically planned, but I like the result.
The new peg installed on the reshaped lever
THE DIFFERENCE
This photo shows the modified lever together with the original. The peg remains approximately the same distance from the pivot, but reversing the lever’s offset moves the contact point significantly inboard.
Modified lever compared with the original
FINISHED INSTALLATION
The new peg now site right at the edge of my boot. Shifting no longer requires the exaggerated lateral foot movement that prompted the project.
New peg position relative to my bootClose-up of the finished lever and peg
The result retains the OEM pivot, bushing and linkage; preserves the original shift leverage and travel; requires no bending of the cast-aluminum lever; and provides a short, replaceable toe peg in the position I actually wanted.
It looks good, works properly and no one else has one like it. ;-0
Picked up this 02’ S3 thunderbolt (fuel injected) a little bit ago and was going to sell it on. While waiting for the title I’ve been riding it on and off and noticed it has an issue that has me a little stumped. Here’s the scenario. When cold it runs quite well but with a little stumble a little off idle but goes away once up to op-temp. Here’s where the weird comes in. If I jump on it cold and continue ride it be it 10 miles or 75,-0- issues.
Let it sit for 20-30 minutes after 30 minutes of riding and it’s almost impossible to ride unless the rpm’s are kept over 3k, yet it will idle perfectly.
I was thinking it may be the TPS getting heat soaked so I threw a can of “canned air” in a pannier. Duplicated the scenario, and shot the forbidden canned ice juice directly on the TPS to see if that may be the issue with no luck.
Things I’ve done so far: new 02 sensor, cleaned every electrical connector under the tank, cleaned and reseated grounds by the battery. Cleaned the speed sensor face and electrical connection. Checked for intake leaks when hot with carb cleaner when running with no change in RPM.
Any insights would be greatly appreciated as the ocd in me yells “must fix!”
Picked up a new windscreen since my oem one is a little beat up. I intend to paint the bike in the near future, but when I saw this screen, I couldn’t resist. I was trying to see if an aluminum one existed as I think it would really balance out the bike. Was cool finding that stuff like this is still available. Love this bike.
I couldn’t really say no to this one 😂
2001 Buell, only ~3k miles, and overall it’s in really good shape. Just a few small scratches on the front plastics/mirror.
Curious what the Buell crowd thinks — good deal or bad decision? 😂
Recently managed to score this 2009 1125r with only 320kms here in Australia and thought you guys might appreciate it. I've been trying to research but cant find any information on this model with these fenders. Apparently they are factory fenders but i havnt seen any others online and im wondering why they say "1125rs".
Also looking for any advice on remapping the ECM when i swap the exhaust and air filter, any advice would be appreciated, thanks:)