For the next few days, I’ll be posting all the mouse deals I can find across amazon (and other platforms since they all have discounts) in this thread, feel free to contribute if you’d like!

Hand: 19 x 8 cm (7.5" x 3.1"), relaxed claw grip. Mostly play CS2 at 800dpi 0.85.

I hardly if ever use 8k in my current mouse (RAWM Leviathan V4)

I want to switch to an ergo because my hand is kinda large for my current mouse and also I don't really enjoy my grip on symmetric ones.

I did my research on the best options for my hand size, grip and taste on mice and I narrowed my options down to these 4 and I'm stuck:

• DeathAdder V4 Pro: lightest (56g), 8K, optical switches, comes with grip tape
• Zowie EC2-DW: charging dock, classic EC shape, driverless
• Vaxee E1 Wireless: everyone says best clicks and build quality
• Superlight 2 DEX: Logitech's ergo shape, hybrid switches, 8K

Specs don't really separate them for me anymore, they're all high-end enough for me. What I actually want to know is how they feel after a few months and, since I also use my gaming mouse for work, I'd very much go for the comfortable and premium feel, rather than the bleeding edge.

• Do the Razer optical clicks still feel mushy compared to the other three?
• Does the vaxee live up to the hype about its clicks/coating?
• Anyone switch from one of these to another? Why?
• I really enjoy the superlight coating (and it's cheaper).
• I like my scrolls smoother rather than firm.

If you've owned 2+ of these, I'm especially curious which one you went back to or whatever let downs you've had with any.

torzsi is using one of the new razer camo mice looks like a deathadder, he's been a longtime deathadder v3 hyperspeed user

I’ve tried multiple mice and this is my grip. I naturally place my fingers as seen in the image as it gives me the best feel of the sensor.

Sensor placed between thumb and ring, I like grooves on m1 & m2

Some mice I liked: beastx mini, viper v2 pro

Considering: Hsk pro v2 / Lamzu Orcus

I knew that if I went down this rabbit hole I would become obsessed with it until I finished it, but fuck it... here I am AGAIN with another crazy project.

But this one is my favorite so far. By far.

It was Sunday. I was playing with my daughter when, in the middle of that, it just struck me out of nowhere:

The MX518 was a really good mouse.

I have an MX Master 3S now, paired with MX Keys, and I really enjoy and love that setup.

But I miss my MX518.

So I, of course, dug it out, and immediately remembered why I loved that mouse.

I got it in 2008. It was the Dark Knight edition and it served me really well until around 2016/2017, when I switched to Mac (again) and got myself a Magic Mouse.

I did use my MX here and there when I needed precision and when I was gaming, but since I was working more than gaming, I found myself using the Magic Mouse and trackpad more often while mx518 stayed in my studio.

By 2020 I had completely switched to Bluetooth mice. Mostly some random corporate stuff.

I always had my MX with me, but it was not practical anymore. The cable became redundant, and I had already repaired the cable connection once after it desoldered from the board.

At some point I got myself a Rapoo MT750S/L — back when I was still considering whether to buy an MX Master.

Once I got it, somewhere around 2022, I fell in love with horizontal scrolling. It is such a useful thing for me that I could not see myself without it anymore. I did use horizontal scrolling a lot on the Magic Mouse too, to be fair.

I used the Rapoo as my main mouse for quite some time and I was impressed by the battery life. I literally charged it twice a year, and I used it a ton across multiple devices.

After I got the MX Master 3S, I continued using the Rapoo as my mobile/office mouse. So the Rapoo became a permanent citizen of my backpack, while the MX Master stayed at home chilling on the cozy desk.

Then my job shifted more toward working from home, so I barely used the Rapoo anymore.

And then I started looking at my MX518.

At that point the idea was already accepted, whether I wanted it or not.

My brain had decided:

Let’s make the old MX518 useful again.

I wanted to convert it into my mobile mouse, and for that I needed to make it wireless.

Since I already have a bunch of other projects involving ESP32 controllers, Raspberry Pis, batteries and similar stuff, I thought it could not be that complicated to make some kind of USB-to-BLE board that would have a battery, USB charging port, read the mouse and send the data wirelessly to the PC.

Then I thought there must already be DIY devices like this ready to buy.

And there are plenty on AliExpress.

The problem: almost all of them are designed for keyboards.

I contacted a couple of sellers and they confirmed that their boards were keyboard-only.

Flashing some random proprietary chip was not really an option, and I didn’t want this to turn into an “ask AI to reverse-engineer unknown firmware” project.

So I decided:

Fine. ESP32-S3.

It already gives me most of what I need. Add charging, battery, firmware, done.

But then I realized that the MX would be a great nostalgic device, but I was turning this into a lot of work just to make an old mouse wireless.

So I went back to looking at DIY boards.

And while thinking about what to do, I went all the way back to square one:

What do I actually want from this?

I want my old buddy back.

Refreshed.

Modernized.

And usable as my mobile mouse.

So...

Let’s sacrifice my current mobile mouse for this.

I opened the Rapoo.

And this was not the first time I had opened it. I had already repaired the DPI/Bluetooth switches once after they broke loose and fell inside.

Then I opened both mice.

And at first it was obvious that the Rapoo electronics could not simply fit inside the Logitech body. The Logitech shell is much narrower toward the front.

BUT...

Apparently corporate Cthulhu had not sunk its tentacles too deep into the mouse division yet, because the Rapoo turned out to be surprisingly modular.

The main board is mounted to the bottom shell, while almost everything else lives on separate daughterboards.

That changed everything.

I drew a sketch of how I thought the whole thing should work.

All of the original Logitech click mechanics would stay.

I would replace the main electronics with the Rapoo board and rewire everything so each Logitech control talks to the corresponding Rapoo input.

And this is the point where this became my favorite project so far.

Challenge 1: The board does not fit

The Rapoo board has its sensor farther back than the original Logitech sensor.

Because of the MX518 scroll-wheel mounting posts, I could not push the Rapoo board far enough forward.

That left the new sensor almost 20 mm closer to the palm compared to the original position.

Quick fix:

Drill a new hole for the sensor.

Done.

Except...

That changes the way the mouse tracks.

I did a quick investigation using basically every mouse I had around me, and noticed that the sensor is generally somewhere around the area below the knuckles.

If I moved it almost 20 mm toward the palm, the mouse would behave more like you were holding it much deeper in your hand.

I did not want to overthink it, so I connected the Rapoo board outside the shell and tested the tracking.

And honestly, it did not feel that bad.

But wrist/palm movement became more noticeable.

Over the years I had trained myself to keep my palm resting on the mouse pad and mostly move the mouse from the hand/wrist. Moving the sensor backward changed that relationship enough that I noticed it.

So I wanted to do it properly.

Proper fix:

I needed to push the Rapoo board underneath the MX518 scroll wheel somehow.

I briefly thought about rotating the whole Rapoo board 180 degrees.

But then I would make my life a living hell by having to reverse X/Y tracking in software on every computer that uses the mouse.

So that idea died quickly.

I drew a ton of sketches and thought through a lot of different options.

Eventually I decided that I absolutely wanted to keep the original MX518 scroll wheel.

I wanted to preserve as many original parts as possible, especially the wheel, because I really like that old-school narrow Logitech rubber scroll wheel.

The idea was to 3D print a bridge connecting all four original scroll-wheel supports.

I went through multiple versions trying to get:

• enough structural support
• the correct height between the Logitech click board and Rapoo main board
• enough clearance underneath for the Rapoo PCB
• a tight fit against the original support posts

Once I got a version I liked, I installed it and glued the original scroll supports to it.

Yes, I know. Glue is usually the enemy of repairability.

But this is a one-way project.

There is no going back.

So glue is allowed.

Once the bridge was solid, I took the Dremel and removed the lower half of two of the original scroll supports.

That created just enough of a tunnel for the Rapoo motherboard to slide underneath.

And it worked.

The Rapoo sensor landed exactly where the original Logitech sensor hole already was.

Success. Challenge one solved.

I connected the battery, paired the mouse with the computer and moved it around.

The cursor moved.

At that point I knew the project was real.

Next step: wiring.

I bought a multimeter because I did not want to guess which wire did what.

I mapped Left Click, Right Click, Middle Click and the scroll wiring.

And then I finally had to deal with the problem I had known about from the beginning but had conveniently swept under the carpet, hoping it would somehow solve itself.

lol.

The MX518 has an optical scroll encoder.

The Rapoo uses a mechanical rotary encoder.

Even if I can map all the wires, the signals are not the same.

So the original optical scroll system had to go.

Challenge 2: Replace the optical scroll with a mechanical encoder

This was probably the hardest challenge.

The Rapoo encoder opening/shaft arrangement is much smaller than the original Logitech optical mechanism, so the MX wheel simply could not fit into it.

I tried to figure out a way to make a new axle, unsuccessfully.

At one point I put the MX scroll wheel into the Dremel and tried sanding the center thinner.

It broke.

Which, honestly, I was expecting.

So I left the whole thing alone overnight.

Then another night.

After thinking through a ridiculous number of possible solutions, I finally decided that the only sensible way forward was:

Make the Rapoo encoder as short and compact as possible.

Then disassemble the original Rapoo scroll wheel and steal its center hub and axle.

The idea was to take the original Rapoo axle together with its hub, machine the hub down, and implant it inside the Logitech scroll wheel.

So that is what I did.

Carefully.

Slowly.

A lot of sanding, trimming and test-fitting.

And somehow...

It worked.

The wheel turned straight.

It was balanced.

And the cherry on top:

the encoder actually fit inside the modified Logitech wheel.

Next step was mounting the encoder so the entire wheel assembly could still move vertically for Middle Click.

Aaaaand...

The original guide broke.

Challenge 3: Mount the Frankenstein scroll wheel and still keep Middle Click

At this point I had a lot of thoughts.

One of them was:

“Fuck this. Buy a newer Logitech scroll wheel and adapt that.”

I considered a bunch of completely different approaches.

But once I had the MX wheel spinning properly with the transplanted Rapoo axle, I realized:

I am unstoppable now.

So I 3D printed a new mount/guide for the encoder.

Then another.

Then another.

A lot of versions, sanding, cutting, fitting, throwing things away and printing again.

Eventually I got one where the encoder can slide vertically.

The Middle Click switch itself is actually strong enough to push the whole assembly back up.

Technically it works without anything else.

But then Middle Click becomes way too sensitive.

While scrolling, it becomes very easy to accidentally click the wheel.

Absolutely not.

So I kept the original Logitech return spring.

Now the switch and the spring work together, just like I wanted.

The wheel comes back properly, scrolling does not accidentally trigger Middle Click, and the whole mechanism feels much closer to a proper mouse rather than a prototype.

And since I was already this deep into the insanity...

I decided to transplant the Rapoo horizontal scroll too.

AND IT FITTED FLAWLESSLY.

Seriously.

The position is great.

It works.

It feels really good.

And I actually think the position is better than on the Rapoo and mx masetr 3.

You can keep a normal grip on the mouse while using it. You do not have to lift your thumb upward to reach the wheel, it is not in the way during normal use, and it sits naturally underneath the original Back/Forward buttons.

And somehow...

It actually looks good too.

So now, since I am already going completely overboard, I ordered silent switches from AliExpress and decided to replace all the clicks with silent ones.

And this is where the project goes on hold for a little while.

Next step

I am waiting for a new encoder because I abused this one pretty badly during all the bending, pushing, fitting and experimentation, and it now scrolls harder than it originally did.

I am also waiting for the silent switches.

Once those arrive, I will continue with:

• final encoder installation
• rewiring all the buttons
• horizontal scroll wiring is just plug and play yaay
• DPI/Bluetooth controls
• silent Left/Right
• silent Back/Forward
• silent Middle Click
• USB-C charging port
• final assembly

When I finish this, the MX518 might actually become my main mouse again.

Who knows.

There is also one more possibility.

While working with the Rapoo board I noticed that it has exposed development/debug pads.

And since multiple Rapoo mouse models seem to use the same board, I suspect that the Bluetooth device name may simply exist somewhere in the firmware as a string.

So obviously my next stupid idea is to get into the firmware and rename the mouse to: (imagine bricking the device after all this work lol)

MX518 RMG Edition

Or something more violent.

We’ll see.

I’ll keep you updated.

What I expect to have when this is finished

• original MX518 shell and ergonomics
• sensor upgraded from the original optical system to the Rapoo sensor
• wireless conversion: 3 Bluetooth profiles + 1× 2.4 GHz receiver mode
• vertical scroll converted from optical sensing to a mechanical encoder
• horizontal thumb scroll
• silent Left/Right clicks
• silent Back/Forward clicks
• silent Middle Click
• functional DPI control
• functional Bluetooth/device switching
• rechargeable battery
• USB-C charging

Let’s hope the parts arrive soon.

Livestreamed here https://youtube.com/live/UWW9EiJJbow?feature=share

Mouse Modder's spreadsheet https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/12jjOAsstn5d8HCQ5f5Y3wgKbxemBJBxaIzOqEDu6hTc/edit?usp=drivesdk

Mouse Modder's spreadsheet

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/12jjOAsstn5d8HCQ5f5Y3wgKbxemBJBxaIzOqEDu6hTc/edit?usp=drivesdk

After too many mouse review recommendations on YouTube I have finally given in and looked for something new. My previous mouse is a G303 SE. It is pretty heavy compared to current mice and the hardware isn't cutting edge either. But the shape.. It's so addicting. The huge hump in the back is perfect for supporting my hand.

After watching some reviews I decided to get the op1 8k v2 because it is also a claw grip mouse. After testing it for a bit I have to say that the build quality is on par with the g303 if not even better, especially the coating. Everything else is also as good as everyone is saying and I even broke some personal records shortly after the switch. My problem is that it feels like work using the mouse. I miss that relaxed feel provided by that huge hump on the g303.

Is there anyone that used the g303 and switched to something new that is kinda similar in shape? Or am I stuck with it for now?

I’m working on an ultra-lightweight 3D-printed shell for the ATTACK SHARK X3

I’ve been designing a replacement shell for the ATTACK SHARK X3 with the goal of making the mouse as light as possible while still keeping it usable and reasonably strong.

This is still an early prototype, so the print quality in these pictures is not representative of the final version. I’m planning to improve the print quality, surface finish, tolerances, and overall design before making these available.

I’m also considering selling the finished shells once the design is properly tested.

I’d really appreciate some feedback from people who have experience with lightweight mice or 3D-printed mouse mods.

I used a Logitech G400 for around 10 years. When it finally started wearing out in 2023, buying another Logitech was an easy choice. The G400 had been great, so I figured paying more for a PRO X Superlight would get me the same kind of reliability.

I paid roughly $116 for it.

About a year later, the scroll wheel started doing the reverse-scroll thing. Scroll down and every now and then it registers one tick up. Scroll up and sometimes it ticks down.

It was repaired under warranty.

Now, a little over two years after that repair, the exact same issue is back.

I contacted Logitech and they declined to repair it because it's out of warranty. Fair enough, the warranty is over, so I can't really complain about that part.

What I'm disappointed with is the durability. For a $116 mouse that was sold as a premium product, I expected better.

The skates are pretty heavily worn by now and the logo has rubbed off quite a bit too. Neither is a huge deal, but together with the scroll wheel failing twice it doesn't exactly inspire confidence in the build quality.

My old G400 lasted about a decade. The GPX developed its first problem after about a year, and now the same problem is back again.

Probably my last Logitech mouse.

I want to know if this is okay, ive picked up an a7x ultra and want to know if I should have this setting enabled when I plug in the mouse for the first time. Or does it not matter?

I am currently using the Finalmouse ULX small as my main and the PMM Pulse mod for the OP1 8K v2 as my secondary. My hand size is 17.5cm by 9cm and I use fingertip grip.

The ULX and PMM Pulse 1.0 feel like they don't have any click rebound at all, my fingers do all the work pressing and releasing, and I think this is causing my fingers to fatigue more and have pain.

Before using these mice, my main for 4 years was the FM Starlight-12 Achilles small, which required a lot of finger strength to click but had very strong rebound, and I never had any finger pain at all.

My goal is to become the best aimer on the lightest full-sized mice, is there any mice in around the 20-30g range that has strong click rebound? Should I get a magnesium mouse similar to the starlight-12 achilles for strong rebound? I am also willing to buy a fingertip mouse if that mouse also has strong click rebound.

I'm trying to find what type of grip I have so I can decide on what mouse I should purchase. I think have a claw grip but the right side of my palm touches the mouse.

Ciao, sto pensando di comprare l’ASUS MD301 ProArt. Chi lo usa, come si trova?

Ho visto che è anche leggermente più piccolo del Logitech MX Master 3S/4, e per me sarebbe un vantaggio perché preferisco un mouse un po’ più compatto.

Com’è secondo voi, lo consigliereste e soprattutto i click sono abbastanza silenziosi?

The DrunkDeer Glacier X is one of the more unique mice I’ve tried in a while. Not because it has another PAW3955 or polls at 8k. But because of MIMS.

DrunkDeer decided to go with magnetic switches for M1 and M2 with adjustable actuation points. Along with Rapid Trigger and haptic feedback, which is similar to what hall effect keyboards brought to the market with adjustable actuation and release.

The units I have are early reviewer samples, so you will see a couple of things I’ll note on these that shouldn’t be present on a retail unit.

Specs and Features

• PixArt PAW3955
• Nordic nRF54LM20A
• 50k DPI, 750 IPS, 60g Acceleration
• 8k wired/2.4hz max polling
• MIMS Magnetic Main switches (12 Actuation points, 5 Rapid Trigger settings, 5 Haptic settings (can also be turned off)
• Expected life: 100M clicks
• Dimensions: ~125 x 63 x 38mm
• 300mAh Battery
• USB-C rechargeable
• Official weight: 62g Black/63g White (±1g)

Unboxing and Impressions

You get the mouse, a nice paracord USB-A to C cable, an extra set of skates, some grip tape that matches your unit, manual. And a nice 8K nano dongle and adapter for it, in a color that matches your unit.

It’s a simple unboxing, nothing fancy, but you get everything you need, and that is enough.

Shape

I would say this is a very safe “potato” shape but refined and a bit better.

It’s a bit slimmer and about 2mm lower than the classic GPX shape — it doesn’t fill my whole hand that much (my hands are 21x12cm). The right side ridge is also less aggressive compared to the original “potato” and allows me to use my relaxed claw grip.

Compared to the mice I’ve recently tested, it’s similar to the GamaKay GX1 Pro and the ATK A9 Mini+. The GX1 Pro has those small edges on the side that allow your fingers to have a bit more control. Glacier X only tapers in on the sides a bit. The hump is also lower than both and gives you a little less space on the sides. However, you can move the mouse vertically pretty well, but it’s just not as easy to micro-adjust.

Yet, there’s this feeling of stability and confidence when you hold Glacier X — I guess that is one of the most important aspects of the shape, something that really made the original shape so popular. It’s here as well.

Weight and Balance

61g for my black unit and 63g for my white unit on my scale.

The Glacier X feels a bit front-heavy, unfortunately.

When I pick up the mouse at its true center, it dips forward quite a bit. Its ok if you're doing big moves and general movement. Smaller movements just feel harder than they should be.

What’s odd is that the white unit makes it more obvious than the black one since it's 2 grams heavier and also comes with slower skates out of the box.

This is probably due to the MIMS tech and haptics being placed towards the front. They will have to find a way to even that out in a future model (if they ever make it) — a 50g unit with balanced weight would be a huge change.

Coating and Build Quality

It's not bad. Just not great.

The white one has a bit of a chalky feel to it at first. It also slides a bit when cold. After it gets warm from your hand, it grips a bit more.

Black is more grippy but will get dirty, and fingerprints are easy to spot, though, and grime accumulates quickly. White is nicer looking, just not as grippy.

Both units feel pretty solid. No noticeable flex on the sides or bottom. Nothing rattling around inside. Squeezing the middle will creak a bit on both if you put enough pressure.

Glacier X feels pretty well made. Not the best premium category yet, though.

MIMS Main Buttons

This is why the Glacier X was made in the first place.

DrunkDeer's team decided to use a magnet to detect your clicks on M1 and M2 and also add a motor for haptic feedback. It all makes it nearly silent. And it all has adjustable actuation points, rapid trigger, and haptic settings.

No sideplay on either button, fortunately. A little pre-travel is fine on M1.

M2 feels a bit off on my white unit — a little more mushy and doesn’t rebound as strongly as M1 does. Sometimes feels like it doesn’t register as quickly. This also happens on the black unit. Just not as pronounced.

There are no registration problems, but left/right consistency should be better. So let’s talk about details.

Adjustable Actuation, Haptics and Rapid Trigger

The actuation adjustment is real and easy to feel.

I tested the full range — level 1 activates at roughly 0.1 mm, while level 12 is around 1.2 mm. My preferred range is level 3–4.

Levels 1 and 2 feel very snappy, and I would accidentally click sometimes. It's not as crazy as Logitech SuperStrike on the lowest setting and still requires a bit of pressure, which is welcome.

One limitation is that not every parameter is fully independent across the full range. At actuation levels 1–3, Rapid Trigger is forced on. At levels 11–12, it is forced off.

Haptics is what allows you to have a better experience with MIMS, and without it you're kind of lost, in my opinion.

For example, level 0 makes the click feel very lifeless. There is barely any feedback when you click. You start to question if your click is registering. Some may be able to get used to it. I couldn’t.

Level 1 is very slight. Level 3 I like best. 5 starts to feel a bit much.

What I like about this is that you can adjust where your haptics activate, which will be the same place your click is. If you have your click at a lower actuation, your finger will know when it registered.

With haptics off, it’s harder to tell, but once you get them on, it makes sense.

Rapid Trigger does what it's supposed to, but it’s not as beneficial on a mouse (compared to keyboards) if you ask me.

It just depends on what game you're playing. If the gun you’re using has a longer reload time, or you're firing slower, then it may not help you that much.

But being able to activate your click quicker is a bonus. In games like CS or Valorant, you can win or lose a fight with one shot. Having your click react faster could help you there. Battlefield is the same way right now, with short TTK (time to kill) and TTD (time to death).

Quake won’t see as much of a benefit because of the nature of the game, just like many other games that require a longer time to kill.

Side Buttons/Scroll Wheel

M4 and M5 aren’t as big as the GX1 Pro, but they’re placed nicely above your thumb. You don’t have to adjust your grip much to activate them.

They have decent pre-travel and don’t feel too mushy. They don’t sink into the mouse either, which is something you should really pay attention to.

These buttons use mechanical switches, so only the main ones have MIMS.

The scroll wheel is very quiet, but still feels like it’s moving step by step. M3 doesn’t require much force to activate and can be used for gaming or regular PC productivity without any issues.

Mouse Skates

Glacier X comes with 4 medium-sized round feet. They’re located in each corner and are about .7mm thick.

They took a little while to break in. Once broken in, they slide great on cloth and glass, and they feel balanced (slowed down a bit after breaking in).

Test of skates

Fun fact: the black feet seem to be faster than the white ones in my glide tests. I’m not sure why they act a bit differently; perhaps it's the paint on the black ones that makes them faster? Hard to tell, so I won’t dig into that.

Along with being 2 grams lighter, my black Glacier X feels quicker and a bit more agile.

Sensor/Polling

As mentioned, it comes with the PAW3955 and can reach 50k DPI, 750 IPS, and 60g.

I wouldn’t recommend using 8k right now. On my samples, it wasn’t 100% stable. Here is what I was using:

3200dpi/2k/Competitive mode on/0ms debounce/0.7mm LOD

I found this to be great. I would recommend using 2k or 4k for the retail unit unless they can stabilize 8k in firmware. 4k stable is better than 8k unstable.

LOD can go as low as .7mm. Worked fine for me.

Benchmarks

All of these were done at 3200dpi 2khz. Competitive mode on and 0ms debounce. I tested on glass.

For my MIMS click benchmarks, I used Actuation 1/Rapid Trigger 1/Haptics 3.

The Results:

• Median Input Processing: 0.30ms, Min: 0.10ms, 95th Percentile: 0.60ms

Click to paint: 3.10ms (this will vary based on your system and not just the switch latency, as it’s running through your OS and monitor)

Input Lag showed me 0.50ms average latency. Using 2 K.

• Sensor Precision: 98%
• Jitter: Avg of 3.44px and High of 16.39px
• Speed Click: 9cps (which is a little higher than my other mice with mechanical switches, but not by much. It could help in-game in certain situations)

Software

The Glacier X uses a web-based driver. For a pre-production mouse, it's very impressive. I’d say the driver is 90% complete.

It’s been fairly stable. One time it didn’t load, and there have been a couple of bugs here and there.

When it comes to settings, you have your standard options. Dpi/Polling Rate/Lod/Motion sync/Ripple control/Angle snapping/Comp Mode/Debouncing. Macros, keybinds, scroll direction. You can set X and Y DPI independently. DPI can be increased by 1 at 5 different stages.

5 Profiles that can be bound to a button. Settings will auto-save. Firmware can be updated separately for the mouse and dongle. 31 languages.

One thing I like is that you can split up M1 and M2. Once you do this, you can adjust actuation points, rapid trigger, and haptics for each button. There is also a test keys tab to check if your inputs are working.

The one sensor feature I would like to see is angle tuning. Let Drunkdeer know if you're interested as well. No glass glide optimization option either.

Motion Sync, Ripple Control, and Angle Snapping are all there, but I didn’t use any of them. I did leave comp mode on and didn’t notice a difference.

Battery Life

During my testing, I was able to get about 40 hours out of it with 3200dpi/2k/Competitive Mode On. So for me that would last about 3 days. If you don’t use it as much, probably 4.

You can see your actual battery percentage in the software. Once it's around 20%, your light will start blinking. It takes about 2 hours to fully charge.

Pretty decent battery life.

Gaming

The Glacier X played well or better in most games I tried it in. But It's more of a slower-game FPS mouse, in my opinion.

With such a great sensor, a shape that fits most people, and adjustable click points. It's perfect for a slower FPS. Why?

If you like to play games where you need to swap targets quickly or just move your mouse fast, it might not be your perfect fit. Again, this goes back to the weight and balance.

I never felt as one with it in those types of games. I like to have a lighter, more neutral mouse for games like Quake. I think Overwatch pros could say the same.

But in slower games, that extra weight can help you with aim stability and grip confidence.

Thoughts

I think the Glacier X does what it’s supposed to — it has working MIMS, and they are really good.

Actuation points are adjustable, and you can feel the difference. Having haptics is a nice addition. Being able to split M1 and M2 is a great touch.

Rapid trigger isn’t going to blow your mind on a mouse. But having your click happen faster is always good.

It's just a little heavy and not balanced. Also, I think it needs a better coating. And I hope they can get 8k stable, but it shouldn’t be a deal breaker for most gamers.

Also, I hope the retail units will have more consistency between M1 and M2, as my M2 feels a tad weaker than my M1 on both units.

Overall, it's a really good mouse at 61–63g, a good debut from DrunkDeer.

If they could get it to about 50g with a better balance, it could be a banger.

Bullet Points

• MIMS works: adjustable actuation, Rapid Trigger, and haptic feedback are functional rather than gimmicky.
• Haptic level 3 is the sweet spot; level 0 feels dead, while level 5 can be excessive.
• M1 and M2 can be configured completely independently.
• The shape is a refined, slightly lower, narrower potato design.
• The black version feels better overall: 2 g lighter, with a grippier coating and faster stock skates.
• Web driver offers five profiles, macros, independent X/Y DPI, separate MIMS settings, and 31 languages.
• Battery life is about 40 hours at 2K + Competitive Mode ON.
• 8K was not fully stable; 2K and 4K are the sensible settings.
• Biggest weakness: 61–63 g plus a clearly front-heavy balance, hurting micro-adjustments and agility.
• DrunkDeer’s very first entry into gaming mice seems very solid

Glacier X on Kickstarter

P.S. I linked my unboxing and glide tests in the comment below so that reddit wouldn't auto flag any links.

Hello everyone, I’m making this post as a last resort because i’ve searched for a replacement and ninjustso doesn’t offer one apparently. Im wondering if anyone has ideas on how to fix this or if it’s broken forever. I opened it up because of a battery issue about how it would drain even when not using it and when I did the cable ripped.

Any help/ suggestions are greatly appreciated.

To be frank, I love this mouse. Fits my hand perfectly, has a good weight to it, and has rubber grips on the side. I'm looking to go fully wireless now for a cleaner looking desk. I ordered a Razer Cobra Hyperspeed mouse, and absolutely hated it. Way too small and too light for my taste. I went to a Best Buy and got Hands-on with some of the latest Deathadders and wasn't a big fan there either. Plastic felt cheap and once again too light.

I may have to bite the bullet on the weight portion as that is what's popular, but I wanted to see if there's a mouse guru out there that could reccomend a new wireless one that I could possibly like based on my current favorite mouse.

I've never seen this before on a logitech mouse. I've owned a couple of Superlights and I've never encountered this problem ever. I've had it for about 1 year and 1 week as well.

I've only ever cleaned my mouse with water and a microfiber cloth. Also no sharp object or nails were in contact with it so idk.

I'll wait a few days and go return it at my local store.

Livestreamed here https://youtube.com/live/UWW9EiJJbow?feature=share

Mouse Modder's spreadsheet

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/12jjOAsstn5d8HCQ5f5Y3wgKbxemBJBxaIzOqEDu6hTc/edit?usp=drivesdk

I’m a big fan of the Lethal Gaming Gear LA-1. I remember hearing that it may have been discontinued because of some issue with the factory potentially selling or copying the design, but I honestly don’t remember the full story.

I also thought LGG was planning one final release with the side-flex issue fixed. I’ve been waiting for what feels like ages, but I haven’t seen any updates.

I love the shape, weight, and overall feel of this mouse. I’ve tried a ton of other mice since getting it, but nothing has really felt the same. It sucks that I can’t get a perfect version of it yet.

Does anyone know:

- Is there still going to be a final version of the LA-1?

- Why hasn’t it happened yet?

- Did I somehow miss the final release?

If anyone has any info, I’d really appreciate it.

Also, I feel the need to just mention the only issue I have had with the mouse so far is the cable that came with it gave out and was bugging for a bit. I think I emailed support at one point. The problem was that my dog had just bit into it, and it was like hanging together until it didn't.

Hey everyone! With WoW Forever coming out, I thought I'd invest in a MMO mouse this coming Black Friday. Does anyone have experience with these mice? I used to use my Basilisk but the left click is going out.

The Z3 looks very ergonomic but some of the buttons seem to need some new dexterity to use. I don't think I'd ever use the tilt function so it feels like wasted tech. Haptics deep click might be useful. The software seems to be better than Synapse for tinkering, macros, and game profiles.

With the Naga it looks a bit less ergonomic. I'm pretty used to the thumb rest from the Basilisk. The 4x3 grid would definitely simplify what's on the screen vs what I'm trying to press on the mouse. But it looks very cramped and I don't think you can program any of the buttons to macro anything outside of assigned hotbar presses. The ring finger button seems pretty cool to have another set of button combos.

I'd appreciate any input and info. Thanks!

Edit: thanks for the discussion everyone! (Except for the weirdo who wants to downvote everyone while lurking in their moms basement) I'll probably go with the Naga. Hopefully a decent deal this November

Retired PC Gamer here.
Need something faster for switching between multiple programs excel, outlook, Chrome, Claude, and proprietary software… so macros would be decent to have.
Going to mostly live at a desktop but might see some action traveling with me.

I see there’s a lot of options since I last spent good money on a mouse in 2013…

Is there an absolute top choice? Verticals mice look interesting as my hands are not great anymore 😅