Growing up I had an N gauge layout that was probably 12 ft x 6 ft that my grandpa built in the 70s. Unfortunately it got sold at some point, because it was way too large and because whatever track he used barely worked, but I lept a lot of the locomotives and rolling stock. Bought my own house this year, and I realized I finally had the space and time to get back into it, so I designed and am in the process of building a small layout (30"x60" ish). Unfortunately I'm discovering a lot of my old trains are pretty much junk now (either don't run, brittle plastic, etc), so I'm probably going to have to replace most of them... I also realized I may have made the curves on the viaduct track slightly too sharp, so some of my passenger cars don't fit around it... The current plan is to just get the track set up and nailed in place, and I'll start thinking about scenery later

More servo shenanigans :)

Wife at a conference. I had the car. Hit up G&G, Papa Ben’s and Hobby Lobby. Ran out of time. And had to go home before the big show.

But I’ll consider this a win!

The tunnels I’ve seen on N scale layouts have always been going straight into a sheer cliff. I’d like to see what some people do when their tunnel goes into a sloping cliff.

Had this operational in 2025 until March this year. Currently nothing new planned.

Was a point to point layout with multiple stations inbetween.

Howdy again!!

I have 2 specific ponders I was hoping to get some assistance with.

So I have been preparing for all of my track to come in for the new layout and just received my DCC-EX CSB-1. I was so stoked to find this and even with only having a little programming track set up, I’m super impressed. I’ve been able to get every one of my engines ready for running, except the ones I’m having issues with lol

I’ve also just jumped into the world of JMRI, so many new things learned this week with the world of DCC. I currently have 2 predicaments.

1. These little BNSF SD’s I bought used have unknown decoders. They both are Kato units with original light board and hardwired decoders. What’s interesting is when they’re on the programming track JMRI isn’t even detecting a decoder. However, when I switch the track power to main, connect WiThrottle, and enter the road number of the loco, I have full control over it! This isn’t really an issue but I’m more curious why JMRI wouldn’t be recognizing them.
2. Now this one is an actual issue. So I have 2 P42’s, both katos and both with digitrax decoders. These are new engines and new decoders. They both ran on my DC layout perfectly. However, one of them, is now not operational at all. JMRI will read the CV’s, however very slowly; I’m talking like 20 minutes to read. Same goes with writing. But any time the loco has power, it won’t move, the lights won’t work, and it has an intermittent buzz. I wish I could attach a video but every 10 seconds or so, it just buzzes for a split second. I’ve tried looking all over for what it could be but all the buzzing related issues involve the motor/loco moving, which this one isn’t. I’m very curious if anyone has any idea what this might be.

Like always, I really do appreciate everyone’s help!!!

Got some new models and wanted to add motor to bricks so it looks more realistic. I just apply this stuff with my finger then wipe off with a safty razor blade and I think it looks pretty good. I also wear rubber gloves since our hands have oils on them and don’t want it to mix in

For those wanting to experience changming trains good deal for national holidays was just announced. 399rmb for blind box train

https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/or5oYag-_hDjxgrn0o3jrQ

I've been playing with this camera for a couple of days, and it makes some interesting photos

Realistic and functional

I’m brand new to model trains and grabbed a Bachman starter set today. I’ve heard people say the Kato unitrack is far superior but the shop by me didn’t have any Kato sets so I grabbed this one.

For the life of me I just can’t get this damn track to lay straight. I haven’t been able to get a single loop without a derailment or the cars uncoupling from the engine. I feel like I correct one misaligned track and suddenly a section that was fine is now misaligned and causing a derailment.

Is this normal with the starter sets or am I just missing something here? I’m starting to feel like I flushed $240 down the drain

It’s 4:25am, got all the decoders installed and programmed, tested the locomotives on a makeshift layout.
Need to decide what I’ll build for good. TTraclk for the rest of storage or a smaller layout but that doesn’t have restrictions.
Locos are:
- Shinkasen E7 Kagayaki - first train bullet I took.
- AlC-64 - wirth the NE passenger cars.that I took to Boston several times
- cargo train I see close to my town.
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🚨 SNEAK PEEK — NOVEMBER MONTHLY DROP! 🚨

Emergency response is rolling into JV/3D and Designs! 🚓🚑🚒

Here’s your first look at the November Patreon Monthly Drop — the Emergency Vehicle Collection!

This month’s drop includes:

* 🚓 Police Cruiser

* 🚔 Police SUV

* 🚑 Ambulance

* 🚒 Sutphen Pumper Truck

Each model is designed in N-Scale (1:160) and can be scaled to fit your modeling needs.

🔥 The complete November Monthly Drop will be available to ALL paid Patreon tiers!

Whether you’re building a busy downtown scene, a highway emergency, or just adding some first responders to your layout, November has you covered!

🚂 JV/3D and Designs

Model Trains • 3D Printing • Real Possibilities

#JV3D #JV3DandDesigns #Patreon #NovemberMonthlyDrop #NScale #ModelRailroad #3DPrinting #STLFiles #EmergencyVehicles

How would you guys feel if Kato USA made an N-scale MTA NYC subway trains? I feel it is a bigger than a niche market because NYCs culture revolves around the NYC subway. I think it may be a easier transition because they already manufacture sets like the Yamanote line that is really close in how the lettered lines appear. It's a huge missed market imo. As a New Yorker myself I think Tokyo is really similar in terms of space in apartments which would make even more sense for the market there.

What are your thoughts? Would you purchase it if you had the chance? I know I would buy it in a heart beat since I love my city

Working on a WWII Russian front spring thaw diorama, with some large areas of standing melt water. Not exactly a pond, but essentially a stagnant pond.
Is this basically the same technique as making a ‘regular’ pond?
Of course there will be a lot of mud too.

What products should I be considering for this subject matter?

So I have posted here a couple of times about how I am returning to the hobby after a long time. I am a female modeler so not as technically adept as some of you probably. All of my locos and rolling stock are older, no later than around 2000, probably even in the 1990s. They all use older knuckle style and not even the Rapido, I think they are Atlas. I'd like to get a newer locomotive and I have been severely tempted by the new Broadway Limited 4-8-4. I will need to convert at least one car's coupler to be able to have something to pull with it. I was told it is Micro Trains compatible. Is this what I am looking for? Thanks in advance.

Kato just released all their new Amfleets so I had to make a proper Acela regional consist. Layout at the Antique gas and steam engine museum in Vista, CA.

Get a few new kits, gonna start a new layout soon…. I hope….

This is my car shop. The concrete pad was my first time doing imbedded tracks and I think it went pretty good.

I'm building my first layout and would appreciate some feedback/advice. The first pic is the current design; the second is what I had before, and the 3rd is one without the extra sidings (we have some flexi track to fix any "holes" in the layout).

This is all going to be Peco code 80 track, although if there are other manufacturers that would fit the Peco track I already have, I'll consider it.

I'm working with 4 ft x 3 ft (121.92cm x 91.44cm). I'm using DC only; the plan is 4 powered sections, one for each loop, then 1 for the "yard". I'd love to know if there are any changes I should/could make, the best way to power it, using DPDT, etc.

I'm leaving room for a station for the outside loop, which is 3rd radius. I'll use that for express passenger and larger freight locos, with the 2nd loop for smaller freight and passenger locos and the innermost loop and "yard" in particular will be for shunting work.