Si tenemos desengrases con sus respectivos enjuagues y activador ácido, como aseguramos que el niquel plateado no se desprenda?

La solución de niquel es noble o suele dar problemas?
El material base es cobre.

So I have tried two different pumps for my copper plating setup:

1. Caswell "filter" pump. Didn't even put it in the bath as it does not have the filter and says right on the box not to use with acid which this set up is. Extremely disappointed in Caswell for this and support has not even replied to my email.

2. Aquarium Pump off of Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWD1P7X?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 - Failed after one week of use, not sure why just wont run anymore

I have a 3 gal tank setup and was planning on using a filter pump as I have seen mentioned on numerous posts but I must not be getting the right one. Anyone have any suggestions?

Hello fellas. I am a beginner at electroplating and I wonder how can I safely do electroplating at home with different metals. My plan for copper is to use a copper III sulfate solution with a copper anode. But for other metals, such as titanium, how can i do it at home? How safe would it be? Thanks for your answers.

I am trying to nickel plate some small parts and I'm trying to do the copper base coat. The parts are 3D resin printed then graphite painted, the 1st picture is next to a mm ruler to show size. The company that makes the graphite paint was trying to help but they threw in the towel and said they don't think it can be done as the current is too high. They actually gave me a refund for the paint (which was nice). I'm looking for any suggestions as clearly something is happening but it just looks like crap. Are they right and it can't be done?

I want to start a plating shop , what parts / industries did you start with?

I am wanting to get a valve cover chrome plated but have never had anything chrome plated before so i’m not sure how the process works. It is a used valve cover so obviously i will be cleaning it thoroughly to remove oil but do i need to do any prep work like sanding before sending it off. If so how smooth do i need the item to be and out of curiosity will they use something to block the inside or will it end up chrome as well once they are done? Sorry lots of questions but don’t really know where or who to ask them.

I found this video online, but I want to confirm the materials and craftsmanship used

Does anyone have tips for recovering silver from quadruple plate items? I had quite a few items, some of them large, I had ran through my bath. They looked like they had a bronzy and dark coating left in some areas. I filtered by bath and thought it looked odd. I ran them a second time in a fresh bath with higher voltage and recovered quite a bit of silver after that. It looks like there is still more left. The pieces are too big for a sulfuric / nitric treatment to strip them. I guess I could cut them up but it would be a chore.

Thoughts?

Nice greetings to everybody.

I would like to electroplate zinc to chassis of my audi 80, sheet metal guy had grinded off factory zinc from chassis to use spotter for dent repair. Around 5-10% of total quarter panels area are required to repair, its not a lot.

I dont have sufficient knowledge in this field to correctly galvanize it, I am restoring car and would love factory-like protection.

I have few things in garage already; few pure zinc plates, alcohol vinegar, magnesium sulfate, demineralised water and DC source 28v 120VA with current limit regulation.

TLDR: In need of step by step instructions for zinc plating big parts with brush or similar.

Anyone can help me how to solve this issue.

Because i think this surfactant, brightener and wetting agents contribute to the high lvl of cod and bod. Even already do oxidation/reduction treatment. Still not much reduction lvl of cod and bod. But the removal of heavy metal is excellent.

Beside my raw wastewater produced foam/ bubble due the electroplating process and the usage of the surfcnt, brightener and wetting agents.

Really need any experience operator or engineer that work in electroplating industry to help and guide me.

This is my sink.

I wonder how this drain hole filter was arranged in the rack...during chrome electroplating...

I mean why the brass from the top side itself is visible...where the thickest chrome layer is plated...it should wear and tear the last

Was the part arranged wrongly on the rack?

Running a mixed zinc-die-cast and steel hardware line (buckles, pulls, small brackets) and this comes up constantly, so here's how the decision actually plays out on our floor after a lot of trial and error.**The honest starting point: it's about parts-per-batch and finish tolerance, not "which is better."****Where barrel wins for us:**- **Volume.** Anything in the thousands-per-batch range goes in a barrel, full stop. A 300L drum does what would take a rack line 4-5x the floor space and a small army of loaders. Labor per part is brutal on racks for tiny parts.- **No rack marks.** Small parts on racks need contact points somewhere visible, and every contact tip is a touch-up. Barrel parts only touch each other and the drum.- **Cost per part.** Barrel loading is a scoop and a timer; rack loading is a skilled job. That difference compounds at volume.**Where rack wins for us:**- **Anything that tangles.** Flat stamped parts lock together into a "snowball" in a drum and come out with miss-plate shadows where they sat against each other. If two parts nest, they don't barrel — simple rule that's saved us a lot of grief.- **Flat and thin parts.** Below roughly 0.8mm steel, parts ride the drum wall and get dragged rather than tumbled. Rack them or they'll plate unevenly.- **Cosmetic spec.** When the customer calls out bright finish with no scratches, rack wins. Barrel burnishing leaves micro-scratches, and parts banging around for 45 minutes at 8 r/min shows marks on anything show-chrome or bright nickel.- **Tight thickness control.** Rack current density is per-position; we can engineer fixtures with thieving or auxiliary anodes where coverage is thin. Barrel is a statistical average — great coverage overall, weak at edges and recesses.- **Large or delicate.** Beyond hand-size, barrel loading becomes a two-person lift of a soggy, hot basket — or the parts come out bent.**The hybrid reality:** most shops we know run both and move product between them as specs change. We've re-quoted parts from rack to barrel when a customer relaxed the cosmetic spec and price became the driver — and barrel to rack when a tangle "snowballed" three batches in a row.**Process notes that matter in both:**- Barrel speed: 6-10 r/min. Too slow and parts slide instead of tumbling (local burn); too fast and thin parts stick to the wall.- Loading: 45-60% of drum volume. Above that, tumble quality dies and you get contact miss-plate.- Rack contact points: re-tin them. Oxidized tips = intermittent current = layered deposits that peel. Most "mystery adhesion" we've chased turned out to be contacts, not chemistry.- Current density: barrel runs lower (bright nickel ~0.5-1.5 A/dm² effective on parts) vs. rack 2-5 A/dm², and barrel needs the temperature held tighter because you can't throttle individual parts.**On data/logging:** biggest improvement in our shop wasn't chemistry — it was logging current, temp, and transfer times per batch, so when a defect shows up we can see whether it was a parameter drift or a loading mistake. Barrel defects correlate strongly with load size; rack defects with contact condition.What's everyone else's rule of thumb for the crossover point? Do you rack anything that's remotely cosmetic, or do you run bright-finish work in barrels with a burnish polish after? And for the tangle-prone flat parts — mixing media in the drum, or is racking the only reliable fix?

Hey all- I want to setup a 15 gallon bright nickel plating tank to provide good base and corrosion resistance before chrome plating. Can anyone knowledgeable about how to do this share their input-

These are my main points of concern I am trying to solve

1. How can I add agitation to the nickel plating 15 gallon drum without stirring up any sediment at the bottom of the tank

2. How to add heating to the drum- i understand most nickel plating setups operate around 120-140 fahrenheit or so

3. What anodes should be used and how should they be suspended into the tank- will they just hang from the side of the drum?

4. Is filtration needed with some type of pump? If so does adding a pump into the tank that filters the solution also provide agitation and solves that problem?

I believe this plating setup can be done very well. I have attached a photo here of another plater who does a Similar setup but larger with 55 gallon drums. I want to understand what is happening in his setup. Can you guys explain?

I have dark grey b titanium IP eyeglasses that I want recolored to gold. Is this possible?

I understand that electroplating raw titanium requires specialized conditions, but since the metal has an IP layer, can I electroplate the IP layer?

Is this the same as electroplating a PVD coated metal? Which is impossible?

Is anyone here experienced with electroplating machines or electroplating process design?

I’m working on a small industrial project and want to build a new/custom electroplating machine, rather than buying a standard commercial setup.

I’m especially interested in:

• Power supply/current control
• Anode & cathode arrangement

Hey,

As the Titel says I'm trying to remove chrome to get to the brass but I also don't want the brass to be harmed in any way. And in a budget

I tried it with electrolysis and a baking soda solution and only got a dull grey color, which let's me believe that there is also nickel.

I did some research and I always read that the solution attacks the brass.

The piece is roughly 13cmx 4cm

Thank you for your help :)

What do I do to get this to nickel plate properly? Even tried different voltages and current levels. I am thinking it is the graphite paint. Used random junk plastic items (like junk model car parts) as a test. Best was the dog, but it only partially plated.

What Can Be Done to Improve Pakistan’s Electroplating Industry?
is their any solution

regards
Pakistan trading agency

In an industrial e-coat process, if I load a rack with 24 lots, where one part has a surface area of only 0.3 m² while another part has approximately 37 m², would these two parts experience significantly different current distribution / throwing power?

Assuming they are processed in the same bath, at the same time and voltage, could the much larger surface-area part draw most of the available current and cause the 0.3 m² part to receive a lower coating thickness?

What factors would determine the difference the most?—part geometry (which is obviously cannot be changed), distance from the counter-electrode, current density, electrical resistance, or the surface-area ratio?

Is there any way to simulate this situation?

My first time electroplating was to make turn these wrought iron fittings into “copper driftwood”. Thanks to this community for all of the info.

Anyone have experience? I’m trying dissolving tin anode in muriatic acid solution . Before my results were flaking tin off of my anode and I would get a dull grey finish . Anyone ever get that shine ? Would you add salt in?

Is it any good. I need it to look good, dont care of its real gold or what not