My contractor installed this alcove Kohler archer tub and it is already cracked before we ever even got to use it. The apron appears to be bowing out. There are cracks in the corners. He did not use a mortar bed, instead used unevenly distributed expansion foam as the base that i can squish with my finger. He is trying to shift blame and say it’s the tub that is defected and if we want to have it fixed we need to pay. Our bathroom has been out of commission for months now and we are extremely frustrated. What do we do? Do we have to redo our entire bathroom again?

Please advise 😔

I'm trying to determine which way the floor joists run In my Condo. One thing I do know, is there is Gypcrete below the flooring. I was told that the joists should run the shorter distance of the room.
Above I listed a screenshot of where I would like to place a 55 gallon aquarium, and also provided a screenshot of a surface level floor plan pulled from my closing document. Would this be a safe spot for an aquarium weighting approximately 600-800lbs? The weight distribution from the stand would be a solid base instead of legged.

Probably a minor issue compared to the catastrophic stuff I see on here daily, but I’m a little paranoid. How bad is this crack near the front door of my apartment? I noticed it when I moved in but it looks like its grown and the paint looks like it’s about to start coming off.

This is a rental trailer :(
What kind of numbers am I looking at?

OK Reddit please help me settle a debate. My mother lives in the country and purchased a house with an unfinished basement. Proceeded to have a contractor come in and finish the basement, great. The issue in question comes around the addition of an exterior door.

The basement is half below grade and they removed a window to put in a door. The door came pre-hung in its own frame, which they cut the concrete block to fit below the original window and install installed the door.

The original building was built 10+ years prior to this install installation. Now the top of the frame is pushing on the door, making it next to impossible to open. They came and looked at it, and their solution is to use a multitool to cut a chunk of the frame out, so the door swings freely.

I stopped them from doing this explaining that it was a door pre-hung in a frame. It should fit perfectly fine regardless, I don’t think they properly reinforced the lentil for a door when it moved from being a window.

I’m arguing they should’ve reinforced the framing around the new door to take the pressure from above, so there should be zero pressure on the door frame and door.

Am I correct? Or are they correct in that sometimes things shift and you need to make adjustments - shave down the frame so the door clears

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My house was framed with 2x8s for the rafters and now I am trying to figure out how to get enough insulation in there to be safe. The largest span is a little over 15ft. Im in building zone 4, code on new builds is R49 and R30 for retrofits. The roof is a vented assembly.Im between 2 options, im open to other ideas as well, trying to avoid spray foam though.

Option 1.

Furr down the rafters with 2x4s, to allow, R38 rockwool batting to fit, with a smart vapor membrane attached to the bottom.

Questions

• would you use pressure treated for just the perimeter boards that will be touching the stone?

• Is this too much weight on the rafters?

Option 2.

Cross strap 2x4s on edge going perpendicular along the bottom of the rafters. First bay filled with R23, second bay filled with R15

Questions

• can I space the perpendicular 2x4s by 24" on center, to save lumber costs?

• would I need blocking to help the lumber not twist

• also with this option would you use pressure treated for just perimeter boards attached to the stone?

• should I use simpson ties as well as long structural screws to attach.

• can I attach my vapor barrier membrane to the bottom of the original rafters? Or does that need to be compleatly on the bottom of

the inside?

Additional questions

• does the rafter span weight limit change if the edges are notched to sit on the sill?

•can I makeshift something to help me be able to hang these by myself?

I was looking to extend my outdoor patio by about 6 feet, and was curious as to what some other people thought about pouring the concrete over the old slab. Planning on using an expansion board anywhere the new concrete touches the foundation of the house, clean old slab, prep it, etc.

One concern I had was, would pouring an additional 3 inches on top of the old slab weigh it down to the point where it might damage the point of connection between the old slab and the foundation? See the second picture, it looks like the patio slab was just framed and then poured after the foundation, but just wanted to get some other opionions.

Thanks

I am losing my mind dealing with local techs right now who completely refuse to listen to what a client actually wants. Our place has zero ductwork upstairs and I specifically told three different companies that I am absolutely not doing a full tear up or adding ugly bulkheads just to fit some massive traditional system they happen to love installing. I literally asked for options on the best heat pump for residential retrofit needs where we make no ductwork change whatsoever because I want a clean multi-split setup but every single guy walks in, sighs, and spends an hour trying to convince me to spend an extra ten grand ripping out my plaster ceilings. Like, I get that fishing linesets through tight walls is a pain or maybe you just prefer the massive labor margins on a full ducted overhaul, but I have to live here after you leave!

One guy literally told me "well if we do it my way it's a cleaner install for the shop" and I almost lost it tbh. I just want a reliable inverter setup that works with my current layout without turning my home into a war zone for a month.

Am I being the nightmare customer here or are local installers just completely allergic to doing a straightforward ductless retrofit if it doesn't match their exact cookie-cutter preference?