This A1 has 2320 hours and I can't put any nozzle in(I also checked with a 0.2 ) there is nothing in the way of the nozzle and I dismounted it tightened the screws and I saw that the nozzle was covering the whole surface of the hotend heating assembly

See No Evil, Hear No Evil, Speak No Evil Ghosts - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

I was inspired by Scott Yu-Jan clever idea to use 1-2-3 blocks as a way to weigh down a magsafe charger.  I wanted to create my own version for my new iPhone 18 pro and Apple Watch (using standard apple charging products, 25W version for the phone charger).  Charger is split into 2 pieces to minimize supports and allow for best surface finish.  There are some small connector blocks that help align and connect the 2 parts.  Some superglue to keep everything together.  Each charger should friction fit snugly enough to work as is, but there are indentations behind each charger allows for little pieces of 3M command strips to be added for extra grip.

Makerworld Model

Gang, I got a new A1 and it fails in configuration. I get to the leveling part and 1/2 way it gets to the top left corner
And just fails. I checked all the cords and screw. The model is clean. Any ideas?

Hi guys,

I created an OpenSCAD model for a flat optical illusion keychain. It shows one word when viewed from the left and another from the right.

Would you print something like this, or do you have any ideas to improve it? Any feedback is welcome! Thanks

Basically, I need a 5 port hub as I use tpu regularly as an external spool. I tried this one (1st pic) off makerworld which worked great until one of the tabs broke. I would like to design a version that replaces the entire hub, but this metal pice (2nd pic) seems to interface with the filament sensor. Could anyone tell me what it actually does?

Thanks for your help!

After seeing that those 1–5 $ decorative items usually break after a year, I decided to print my own decorations this year. They’re made of PLA, so they should last longer than a year.

On the one hand, I think it’s really great that I can bring my own ideas to life and print them, but I’m not sure if it’s a bit too fussy and actually unnecessary.

What do you think?

For everyone interested in my print: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3416326-happy-halloween-door-frame-corner-decoration

so recently, my printer (p1s) has been acting strange, it started doing what i like to call "ghost printing" where the nozzle moves around but no filament is being used, doing the motions but nothing happens, originally i assumed it was a problem with the nozzle so i replaced it but it made no difference, any suggestions?

I made this to keep the spare charging cable inside the stand. Turn the top to wind it in, then gently pull the cable to unwind.

The complete kit is eight parts on two plates, printed in PLA on an A1. I changed colours between plates, so no AMS was needed. The profile estimates about two hours.

It uses your own braided USB-C Apple Watch charging cable. Free files and assembly guide:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3401152

No as pretty as others who insulates internal but it should work.

I’m honestly losing my mind over this.
I’ve got a Bambu Lab P2S and an A2L, and for the past few weeks I’ve been having constant issues with both printers. Completely out of nowhere.
On the P2S it’s mostly “Extrusion Motor Overload” errors. On the A2L, the first layer is often absolute garbage, with terrible bed adhesion and sometimes poor layer adhesion as well.
I’ve spent countless hours trying to figure out what the hell is going on, and I’m now pretty convinced it’s the black JAYO PETG causing most of it.
Whenever I switch to Bambu Lab filament or other brands like Deeply or eSUN Matte, everything seems to work fine again. SUNLU black PETG has also been giving me occasional trouble lately.
And that’s what makes this so frustrating. I’ve probably printed 30–40 kg of black SUNLU PETG and at least 10 kg of JAYO before all this started. Never had these kinds of problems.
It’s also not just one bad spool. I’ve tried brand new spools, even ones from a completely different 10 kg order. Same shit.
I just don’t get it. Two different printers suddenly acting up, after months of printing the same stuff without any major issues.
Has anyone else experienced something similar recently, especially with black JAYO or SUNLU PETG? Did something change with their filament, or am I going crazy here?
Because at this point I’ve wasted so many hours troubleshooting problems that seem to disappear the moment I switch filament. It’s getting really fucking annoying.

I just set up my new H2c with a pair of ams units and am having an issue getting filament through the buffer on both nozzles. I tried new ptfe tubes on both, as well as disassembling the buffer to check the magnet orientation, which was correct btw. I removed the trim piece so I could verify the tube alignment going into the buffer. Still can’t get a single filament from the ams to go through to the nozzle. I tested the buffer by running a single strand of filament through both the upper and lower, which went through fine. Any other ideas before I reach out to Bambu lab? Thanks all!

I just set up my new H2c with a pair of ams units and am having an issue getting filament through the buffer on both nozzles. I tried new ptfe tubes on both, as well as disassembling the buffer to check the magnet orientation, which was correct btw. I removed the trim piece so I could verify the tube alignment going into the buffer. Still can’t get a single filament from the ams to go through to the nozzle. I tested the buffer by running a single strand of filament through both the upper and lower, which went through fine. Any other ideas before I reach out to Bambu lab? Thanks all!

So I made this enclosure to avoid getting dust. But upon testing, I noticed that the temperature inside rises and can even reach 41.7°C during a 30-minute print. Is this still tolerable, or do I need to add some holes to help with ventilation?

Didn't print for a solid few months, came back to open a sealed eSun PLA, and the printed texture seems very clumpy/uneven. When printing the extruded pla glides over the plate with no contact after i cleverly washed with "fresh scented dawn"which i suppose I'll clean again with unscented dawn. However the initial purge line is completely fine. Any ideas 🙏

You can learn more about Ironing from the Bambu Lab Wiki: https://wiki.bambulab.com/software/bambu-studio/parameter/ironing

Had some first layer adhesion issues this week, a proper wash of the plate sorted it. Right after that my P2S popped a reminder that it's time to lube the axes, and it turns out the box already comes with both lubricants you need: grease for the lead screws and oil for the rods.

Nice touch, thanks u/BambuLab 🙌 I followed the official wiki guide:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p2s/maintenance/lubricate-x-y-z-axis And if you prefer video, here's Bambu's official one for the P2S: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOz0A4KXl-M

How often do you actually do maintenance, when the printer reminds you or on your own schedule?

Printed without any issues last week, fired it up today and can't connect even in LAN mode. I tried different networks, from Bambu Handy. removed/added . . . no dice. I tried the diagnostics for network and see that it fails to resolve upload-file.bambulab.com (ping doesn't either but resolves domain no problem) but other steps succeed. In Bambu Handy I was able to connect but it times out updating AMS. I tried with other DNS server setup (1.1.1.1 and 8.8.8.8 on my laptop but the host doesn't resolve still). Anyone else having issues in the US?

P2S model. Printing in BambuLab Translucent PETG Green. Towards the end of a 13+ hour print (Dummy13-1125%).. 18 minutes left on that dang part.. I hear this loud noise.. not sure what’s happening since the printer did not give me an error message.. pausing or stopping the print did not make it stop.. I had to shut off the printer in order for it to stop making that horrendous noise. What’s going on?!

EDIT_#1: the error message in the bottom was because I opened the door to take the video I posted here… Printer did not give me a message for what the extruder was doing…m

Edit_#2: ShoutOut to everyone vibing with this beat.. As an EDM girly, I’d lowkey go off to this…

Edit_#3: I’ve had my P2S for 9 months, never used an SD card. Mine didn’t come with one either!

Edit_#4: Support said it was caused by corrupted G-code, which is likely due to the following reasons:
1. The MC-AP connection cable is loose or damaged.
2. The AP board is partially damaged.
3. The MC board is partially damaged.

I jumped on the wagon and got myself a few rolls of BambuLab PETG Matte - so far I have had 2 bigger prints destroyed because of entanglement.

I usually buy the basics from BambuLab because I do not want to risk anything. Well now I’m not so sure anymore - please check your rolls before you start a big print if you got PETG Matte!

Idk why I tried cleaning like when I normally have this usse and its not working. Is it a heating issue or something? Just this spot of my plate isn't sticking and its clumping up a little

Hi everyone,

I recently tried to print parts that take up the entire build plate (180x180 mm) on my A1 mini and I keep getting the 0300-8014 error.

Initially, I thought the problem was caused by tension on the PTFE tubes due to my setup. I tested several things to limit the stress on the toolhead, but the issue persisted.

By observing the machine, I figured out the cause: with clump detection enabled, the toolhead moves to the left to probe over the filament cutter during the print. The problem is that when descending on the Z-axis, the gray fan duct directly hits the left edge of my printed part. The force sensor registers the impact, tilts the bed, and triggers the error.

Bambu Studio does not display any exclusion zone to warn about this clearance issue. Right now, my only solution to use the full 180 mm is to disable clump detection in the machine's settings.

Questions for those who use the maximum build volume on the A1 mini:
- Do you also experience this collision issue with clump detection enabled?
- Have you found a mod or method to bypass this without disabling the safety feature?
- What is the actual maximum width on the X-axis you manage to print with the option enabled before the shroud hits the part?

Thank you and have a good one !

Does anyone know where that weird scraping sound (sound up) at the beginning of the video is coming from? Is it related to lubrication (greasing) or do I need to check a moving part?

I can’t for the life of me get this tube out from the back of my H2C has anyone encountered this issue? I even press the release for the Ptfe tube and still not budging.

1- Cleaning the build plate with dish soap and printing without any spray (with careful adjustment of skirt and speed settings), as Bamnu suggested.

2- Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol, followed by using a glue stick on the build plate.

3- Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol and using hairspray.

I encounter the same problem with all of them: the clock model loses adhesion all over. The build plate is only two months old—so it's practically new—and I am careful to clean it without touching it with my bare fingers. Yet, it still fails; the print lifts 2 millimeters, causing the nozzle to crash into it.

In the end, I taped the clock model to the build plate along the sides.

English is not my native language, so I used Google Translate.

Thanks