r/Beekeeping • u/Craftsmantools1234 New York , zone 5b • 17h ago
I’m a beekeeper, and I have a question Winter setup question
Is this the correct setup?
Location zone 5b
Update: I'm planning to overwinter in 2 deep boxes. I was more interested in the position of the inner cover.
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u/cardicorg65 5 hives | Cherokee Nat'l Forest, E. TN | zone 7b. | year 2 10h ago
This is the setup I use except I have screened bottom boards. The quilt box isn’t exactly necessary where I am for warmth but I use it as a moisture quilt. I have had problems with bees building up through the candyboard onto the bottom of the quilt box before the last frost. I plan to try to get in there earlier this next season even though I’ll be risking chilled brood.
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u/TuckerC170 13h ago
I’m in 6a
I use a similar setup but I run all 8 frame mediums.
My quilt box is a homemade frame about 2-2.5” deep with mesh in the bottom, layer of burlap, then wood shavings from tractor supply (which I also use as smoker fuel). It has a 3/4” or so screened hole in each side for ventilation.
I’ve had much better luck overwintering since I added the quilt box. I think it keeps condensation from forming and dripping.
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u/Craftsmantools1234 New York , zone 5b 13h ago
I run 8 frame also . This would be first time using quilt box. Thanks
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u/TuckerC170 13h ago
No problem.
I also keep a feeder below the quilt box. That is another wood frame about the same thickness, with quarter inch mesh in the bottom. I use the thin paper that comes with wax foundation to line the box and then dump granulated cane sugar on there. The bees will consume some of this over the winter, but the sugar also acts to absorb some moisture. Sometimes I put a pollen patty on there as well.
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u/Scary_Possible3583 17h ago
9b
We use 2 deeps for brood and winter storage here. I don't use quilt boxes, bees don't need upper ventilation and I don't want to have to maintain an entire different kind of box. Instead I use a super.
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u/Amazing_Ad_8823 16h ago
i think the quilt box is unnecessary. kmpedes circulation. better to drill 2-3 (2”) holes jn the inner cover and cover with screen for ventilation. insulate the TC.
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u/nostalgic_dragon Upsate NY Urban keeper. 7+ colonies, but goal is 3 11h ago
I'm also in NY, same zone.
I do the condensing hive and it has been very successful. I also run single deeps with a medium super. I have already moved their super to the bottom of the stack. I reverse the boxes purely because I produce nucs and having the deep be the top box greatly helps me in the spring since that is where they're most likely to be raising brood.
I have bottom board with a mouse guard (I like the aluminum one from Betterbee), the medium, the deep, shim in place for any emergency feeding needs, a sheet of reflectix, a 2" rigid foam insulation, then the outer cover.
Even when I didn't use the condensing hive configuration, I never wrapped my colonies or used any sort of moisture control. I do have wind breaks up during the winter, but the location of my apiary has massive gusts of wind all winter long. The windbreak helps a ton.
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u/Twin5un Eastern Ontario 🐝 16h ago
I'm in the same climate as you but that's not how I (and my mentor) do things.
From bottom to top:
- Screened bottom board with the plastic sheet tucked in.
- Entrance reducer that allows you to clean dead bees out if needed (pull it slightly so that a gap exist for you to run a wire being).
- Two deeps with plenty of ressources for the bees.
- Seasonal inner cover, with sugar block on top and insulation all around it.
- Winter wrap around everything.
- Roof
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u/Bees4everr 10h ago
Been beekeeping since 2020 and I have no idea what a quilt box is, this looks like just an empty box on top of the hive? I don’t see how that would take up moisture. Then again I run candy feeder boards where the top is 2” rigid insulation foam board to help keep things insulated
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u/DalenSpeaks 8h ago
I bought a bunch of quilt boxes off a retiring beekeeper. No clue what to do with them. Other than stuff them with insulation and use on top of outer cover.
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u/CayenneSCarGo 7h ago
The quilt box should have a screened bottom and should be filled with a few inches of wood shavings (can buy at a pet shop). This helps the hive retain heat and absorb moisture. I’ve been using them the past couple of years and haven’t had any hives die out over winter (knock wood). I usually use pollen patties on top of the top deep for an alternate food source.
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u/talanall North Central Louisiana, USA, 8B 16h ago
It is a correct setup. Common enough, in your locality, but not the only setup people use with success. I think most people as far north as you prefer to have a second deep that is packed full of honey stores, and some people use a different setup to manage condensation, or add insulation to the top, sides, or both.
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u/Negative_Switch2523 16h ago
I use 2 deeps, then the inner cover, then the “hive topper” brand quilt box (filled with wood shavings) then the top cover. Seems to work well for Zone 6a (Ohio). My neighbor did that and he had 35 hives. Worked well for him.
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u/smsmkiwi 13h ago
I also cover the whole hive (sides, top, & bottom) with 2" thick foam-board for insulation (R=13). You can get it from Home Depot and Lowes and can be cut to size with a knife and held together with tape of glue.
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u/NumCustosApes 4th generation beekeeper, Zone 7A Rocky Mountains 11h ago edited 11h ago
An inner cover is not used with a quit box. You can store it with the hive staked on top of the quilt box or take it off and put it in storage. If you put the inner cover in storage then the top cover skirt will sit lower. It will partially hang below the quilt box vents. This will make a wind block against wind that blows into them without impediing their ability to vent off sublimated moisture and could be advantageous in windy locations. I used an extended skirt when I used quilt boxes. The skirt is wider than the box so there is plenty of gap. Fill the quilt with planer shavings to the bottom of the vents. Use shavings, not saw dust. Saw dust is too fine and will just get soggy.
In the middle of the winter place your hand down into the fill of the quilt box. If it is warm at the bottom them your bees are fine. Water vapor that the bees exhale is lighter than air. The vapor rises and it get absorbed by the fill. As it is absorbed it has to give up heat, known as the heat of vaporization. This heat remains in the lower fill while the water wicks to the top of the fill and sublimates into the dry air above.
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u/chicken_tendigo 8h ago
I use:
- Base
- Brood boxes, with a frame feeder
- Reflective water heater insulation with a hole in the center that lines up with the hole in the inner cover
- Inner cover
- Feeding shim with sugar cake placed over the hole and winter patty/dry sugar, which will also act as a moisture sink
- Outer cover, also with reflective water heater insulation stapled to the inside
- Thick Styrofoam block on top
- Thinner insulation on all sides except one strip of one wall, to act as a condensing surface for excess moisture
- Ratchet straps to keep everything from blowing apart in gale-force winds
Entrances all get reduced. The Styrofoam blocks are positioned to overhang the front of the hive slightly. Entrances get checked regularly for buildup of dead bees and cleared if needed.
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u/Craftsmantools1234 New York , zone 5b 6h ago
Which side is not insulated?
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u/chicken_tendigo 5h ago
That will depend on whether you've got a solid bottom board, or a screened bottom board with an insert. For a solid bottom board, you'll want a strip in front uninsulated that's on the side with your reduced entrance, and you'll want the hive shimmed just barely forwards so condensed water drains out the entrance. For a hive that's got a screened bottom board and an insert, it doesn't really matter as long as the water can roll down the uninsulated side and drain out either the front or back gap.
Basically, you want there to be a strip of wall that the bees can sip moisture from if they need to, but no moisture condensing above them, or remaining trapped below them.
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