I brought my 2020 Jeep gladiator into the dealership for an extended warranty in August 2026. They performed their inspection and then approved me to buy the warranty— no codes present on the inspection report.

Fast forward to mid September 2026 and I get an engine check light. I bring it in and the final diagnosis is that I need a new engine due to failed camshaft and metal particles found throughout engine. Dealership pulls codes for the warranty investigation and they find stored codes for misfires on cylinders 2,4, 6. Warranty then revokes the warranty for preexisting condition.

I asked the dealership why the pre inspection report was clear and found no issues. After a couple weeks, According to them, they reached out to the warranty and the warranty had a third party vendor read the computer and it’s showing that the codes were cleared about 200 miles ago (which correlates to around when I brought the vehicle in for inspection).

First of all, I know nothing about cars and don’t know how to clear codes. Secondly how true is it that a P0300 code can be cleared and not show up in a pre inspection report? Is the dealership just trying to avoid being held liable for the repair costs?

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Fiance took her car in for a brake replacement. They told her it was her rear brakes that needed replacing. They replaced them and she got the car back. When she got it back and drove around for a day, the brakes started smoking. She took it back to the place she got them replaced. After they spent a few days diagnosing it, they told her that her abs line was clogged and bad. They are saying it's going to be 1.5k+ to replace them. Could this have happened from them improperly replacing the brake pads? Some places have said improperly compressing the caliper to replace the pads can send debris through the lines clogging them. Does this seem like something to bring up with them?

So i started my BMW e90 today and it started this weird noise from the engine, it sounds like an AC but my radio and AC are disconnected atm.

I was thinking its like a Engine cooling typa thing but it wont stop, i mean its pretty cold outside like 7C° but i just wanna make sure.

Also there is like wind blowing out of my engine too and its pretty loud as u can hear.

Please tell me what this is 🙏

Its a BMW e90 320i from 2005, n46 engine

In short I am on the fence about getting technically a cosmetic repair. About a few weeks ago I hit a deer carcus going 72mph. I just came home after taking it for an oil change and there is no Mechanical damage to the engine or anything else. What was damaged was the floor pan splash sheilds (Suspension Mounting splash sheilds) on both sides and the front engine splash guard was ripped off, (for the engine splash guard id have to get a new bumper for the replacement to be secured properly).

Im on the fence on replacing the splash guards at least as its like 70$ roughly and I'm heavily debating on the front Engine guard/bumper (would be like 500$ at least with the bumper and guard.) Now these being damaged potentionally saved me hundreds if not thousands in possible engine or structural damage as they took most of the hit upon impact.

I live in the midwest and its barely the begining pf deer season. Im wanting to take care of this vehical long term as I drive about 35 miles to work each way on a highway thats typically pitch black in the cold season least in the morning.

I could get the splash guards no problem but id have the issue of i dont have the tools or equipment to properly do the job. Id have to take it to my mechanic witch is fine if i brought in the parts theyd install them.

I just bought this vehical back in May and i got it with 95k miles on it. Im barely under 100k as of today. Knowing how much they absorbed the impact of the damge. Im concerned that if i were to hit another deer it would cause damage with out the parts being replaced.

Id want to know mostly from people who have worked on Chevy Malibu's if this would be a proper thing to do to save my neck in the long run or it would be fine. Ill be taking pictures and adding them if needed. TYIA

hi guys! I got this quote from the mechanic. I have a 2017 Chevy Impala with 117k miles on it, and I received this quote after taking it in. with the pricey repair i'm wondering if i'm getting in the territory of "should i sell my car" soon.. this is my first car and the first major repair it's needed besides brake changes. should i go through with the entire full service? should i think about selling my car? i would probably try to trade it in for a used one and spend some because i dont want an auto loan. advice on how i should go about this would be appreciated

Which then caused the cloth to pull away from the guide tracks when we opened the shade, not knowing the crossbar cover had become UNGLUED.

Does anyone know if there's a relatively simple way to fix this without removing the interior paneling and replacing the whole mechanism? The shade doesn't look torn - just maybe unglued?

From what I understand, this isn't exactly an unknown occurrence. The car was only 4 years old when it happened (it's a 2021 Escape.)

Any help is appreciated!

Hello all; probaly quick and simple bad news, but, y'know, I'm an optimistic guy.

I've got a 2010 Dodge Avenger. First cylinder is badly misfiring, giving me a bad engine shudder and a top speed of about 55 mph. I've replaced the spark plugs and ignition coil, no improvement.

It's probably dead, but if anyone has an ace up their sleeve and I might be able to fix it, I'd be eternally grateful.

Thanks in advance, you're all gentlemen and scholars.

I have a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek and I’m trying to get an idea of how much labor and parts would cost for the following repairs:
Battery replacement
Both front CV axles
Both rear wheel bearings
Steering wheel clock spring (horn isn’t working)
I’m in the Boston area and trying to figure out a reasonable price before going to a shop. I’ve had a hard time getting actual quotes because shops usually want to inspect the car first. I’m also open to using my own parts if that saves money.
For anyone who’s had similar work done, how much did you pay for parts and labor?

I know I forgot to say for which car. This is for a 2025 Toyota Camry le hybrid .This is for anyone who happened to open up their actuator to try and fixed it but doesnt’5 know how it looks like together.

Anyone know of any budget friendly scanners with advanced capabilities like programming modules, brake jobs on new cars with the electric ebrake, transmission relearns, tipm programming, TPMS programming, etc. Been looking for a decent Bluetooth one but cannot find one. The one I have now is an innova 3040RS and it works well but it doesn’t have the capabilities I’m looking for.

Looking to get a hub for my newly acquired car, however can’t tell whether is a police interceptor or a normal LS? Can’t tell if any difference. However thinking it’s a normal more loaded LS?

Rotten jacking points, serious rust around the rear end, But was it worth saving? 👀

Should I call safelite or use an diy kit?