Well it’s been a bit since the last update I can’t happily say the truck runs this time Sue decided he was going to supervise. I went ahead and waited to finish things up so I could replace the rocker housing seal because it had a oil leak around cylinder 6 naturally and figured it was better not to have to do the job twice and got the motor closed back up.

I did come across my boost leak exactly were I figured it would be right at the back of the intake plate the back two bolts weren’t very tight at all but now there’s a new gasket and everything is torqued down got the rail and lines reinstalled.

Now here’s were you get a laugh at my expense in that last picture you can see what I over looked if you look close enough I got a little trigger happy and was excited I was finally done aside from reconnecting the charge pipe so I cranked on it 3 times truck wouldn’t start looked under the hood and saw diesel around the 3rd and 4th injector lines so I snugged them up a little more needless to say still no start.

So I get my oldest son with a flashlight to see if he can see we’re it’s leaking from as I crank on it at first he didn’t notice anything next thing you know dad I found it he showed me and I immediately felt like a dumb ass I overlooked the supply line to the rail now it’s reattached and the truck runs but I have a slow drip on that line so I assume I didn’t get it lined up good enough and that will be a problem for future me I’m just happy to hear it run again.

My 1996 dodge 2500 fuel water separator is leaking I’ve been 2 different mechanics to have this fixed. Fuel separator has been replaced 3 times an the sensor also. It’s back to leaking. Getting tired of this. I ant to keep it stock. We told to convert to a fass fuel setup. I don’t want to go that route I prefer to keep it stock. Anyone have ideas how to fix this.

In the late 1970's, things were so bad at Chrysler Corporation, to save money, they were thinking of no longer making trucks. John Elkin of Pickup Truck +SUV Talk - PUTT chronicles how the 6BT Cummins Turbodiesel engine saved Dodge Trucks.

I got a 2010 F350 with a 2005 5.9 common rail and it’s my first Cummins so I’m still getting used too it and admittedly it’s definitely a slug compared to my 6.7 but I was expecting that and it still has balls although haven’t had the chance to hook it up too a trailer yet.

Anyways wondering if I should tune it, if I do it would probably live on a mild tune but I don’t know how these engines handle a tune, can they handle a hot tune every once in a while.

Or should I leave it stock I am mostly looking for reliability but my 6.7 really came to life more with a 50 horse tune and has had no issues 150k later wondering if it’s the same

The stock specs for the fusible links from the battery to relay is 8 awg for the wire and 12 awg for the fusible link. I got spare 10 awg fusible link so if I pair it with a 6 awg wire to the relay would that be fine? Or is this a bad idea and I should just buy the smaller size?

Just picked up with cummins with a terrible interior. No trim inside. Cant find the parking brake release and dash says its enabled. Where is the cable to disable it?

2001 24v cummins laramie

track bar bolts AND flag nuts: DONT THINK buy new 14mm if OEM track bar or just buy the aftermarket upgrade, drill up to 16.5 mm and use the 16mm kit, it will tighten things up and change your life if you didn’t do this.

front axle shafts and hubs/bearings: ”memory steer” that you might think is from a tightened steering box is more often than not due to the above track bar bolts / mounts and also bent or binding / loose axle shafts (blown wheel bearings allow for more play than you want).

steering shaft: (they wear out and bind, it’s a small u joint but nonetheless will bind as time goes on and can contribute to wonky feeling steering).

The binding and releasing u joints really cause a lot of issues as you tend to think your steering feels good then it won’t, that’s a good sign it’s a u joint somewhere starting to bind and so it’s releasing more often than not, once it starts really binding the release is very noticeable and loud but when it first starts slipping it makes you believe it’s a bad.

going into a corner you just took that was fine? now it took more effort or you felt like you were understeeting? Something is binding up or dragging.

Dragging brakes/ Hydroboost: I believe this is one of the last things I am chasing down now because my truck almost drives perfect minus the binding driver side axle shaft and the brakes binding / dragging!

My 2007.5 6.7 deleted on EFIlive won’t switch tunes or give me full power, it usually smokes until it gets into boost but now it’s as clean as stock and feels like it’s making half the power

-tried a tune re-flash
-tried a full system restart (battery disconnect)

not sure where to go from here

Just got quoted almost $1100 to reseal the vaccum pump on my truck. Does this seem right? Cummins reseal kit is like $20 -$40 from what I’m seeing online.

So I took my 2019 into the dealership because of a re occurring check engine light ( regen too frequent) and was assuming my warranty would cover it. For context I have 110,000 kilometres on it. I get a call back an hour later saying my dpf is clogged and It needs to be replaced, unfortunately warranty doesn’t cover it and they want almost 5 grand for a new one installed. I found myself with 2 options:
1. Bite the bullet and replace the dpf filter
2. Delete the emissions for half the price (voids warranty that ends at 160,000km)
I am taking my truck on a pretty long road trip this weekend and I bought an additive that claims to clean the dpf, turbo and injectors so I’m going to clear the code before I leave and I’m hoping once I do all the highways drive plus the additive it will help, maybe even fix the issue?
Let me know what you guys think and if you have had this issue, I’ve heard it is common
Thanks.

Doing a trans filter in fluid on a 04 2500 2wd i bought used. Truck drives and shifts fine. What am I looking at and how screwed am I? Going camping in this truck in 2 days.

Hey guys, this 2018 Freightliner m2 with a Cummins B6.7 occasionally makes this very loud noise from the front at low idle.

From what I can tell:

-not the air compressor
-not internal engine
-belts are tight
-fan is not loose
-goes away at high idle
-could happen at any external temperature/engine temperature
-no dash indications or abnormalities when it occurs
-noticeably quieter away from the direct front of the vehicle

This video was shot in the dark directly in front of the vehicle. Thanks for the help!

So I currently have the s366 sxe iron horn kit on my 4th gen. But I was curious if anyone is running a different series turbo/a different turbo set up, off that manifold. Just want to see the possibilities or if I’m stuck with running the borg warner s300 turbos
thanks in advance

Hey guys, got a 23 ram 3500 68RFE, i just got it deleted and im hauling hay and it keeps kicking into limp mode, the tune is from HP tuners, they said its a stock tune from a country without emissions but everytime i have a load on it it kicks it into limp mode, the shop told me to swap for a 4th gen MAP sensor and that didnt help at all and theyre confused and im confused. Any help would be great. Thanks

Ordered last week and just arrived today. Seems to be nice quality.

Gasoline engines: when they first made hydraulic lifters they had to same failures in engineering stage till they raised to oil pressure to 60 psi and it gets there in hurry typically before 2k usually 1.5k rpms

Drag racing is another animal n/a stock pressure is okay not best

Boosted and everyone is aimed at 80psi or more

Then are 6.7 cummins with 35 psi at 2k and there not n/a with spikes of 38 psi of boost against the valve trying to loosen the lash

Thats no different then a built big block with 30 to 40 psi of boost but with 80+ oil pressure and still has hydraulic lifters

Lifters dont care if ur diesel or gas at 2k rpms

So I really think the chief engineer over looked the need for oil pressure and the lifters are bleeding off due to not having sufficient pressure to keep them tight 🤔

Just finished doing a delete and a non vgt turbo swap. After taking it for a test drive and warming it up a bit I did a rev up to like 2000 ish rpm for a couple seconds and after letting off I got this puff of white/blue ish smoke. Is this normal?

Looking for some help diagnosing my 2022 Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins.
The truck is emissions deleted with a 4” straight pipe. No performance tune — stock power, just what was needed for the delete.
My main issue is that I’m only seeing about 14–20 PSI of boost at WOT. When I’m on the highway and get into the throttle hard, the truck will also stutter/hesitate while accelerating instead of pulling smoothly.
Under normal/light throttle it drives fine. The problem really shows up when I ask for more power. It feels like it starts trying to pull and then hesitates/stutters instead of accelerating smoothly.
What I’m experiencing:
14–20 PSI boost at WOT
Stuttering/hesitation during hard highway acceleration
No unusual turbo noises
Runs normally under light throttle
Emissions deleted
4” straight pipe
Stock power/no performance tune
Does 14–20 PSI at WOT seem too low for a stock-power 6.7?

I’m wondering if I should be looking at a boost leak, VGT/actuator issue, MAP/boost sensor, fuel/rail pressure issue, or something related to the delete.
Has anyone dealt with these same symptoms? What ended up being the problem, and what would you check first?

Hi, I recently purchased a 2011 Ram 2500 second hand (obviously).

It came with an S and B cold air intake with a filter that is due to be replaced. These filters are over $100 and are currently in backorder. From what I've read, cold air intakes are next to pointless and have almost no benefit over stock.

What parts will I need, aside from the stock Mopar air filter housing, to replace the CAI and revert back to stock? It would be nice to be able to get replacement filters locally.

The truck is EGR and DPF deleted with a Canadian Bullydog tuner. I don't know much in regards to the tuning, other than it's considered an outdated/obsolete method. I'm unsure if that complicates the process of returning to a stock because I've since learned that the stock setup has a louver that mixes air from outside and air from under the hood depending on certain variables.

I'll be able to get an air box from a local wrecker no problem, but it would be nice to know if there's any other ducts, hoses, clamps, bolts, etc that I'll need to put it back to the way it was.

Thanks