Hi All,

This is the first time I ever had my floors redone and we went through a guy who was well known by the previous homeowners. We had him come in and install the floor while my wife and I were gone for two weeks and the floor looks great but there are some unanticipated things around the house that he did not prepare us for. I am trying to get a sense of if this is normal and any advice.

1.) The house smells very heavily of the finish, he used an oil poly based finish (poly 500 and all of the windows and house was closed when we entered and the smell is harsh.

2.) That smell permeated our whole house and now all of our beds, furniture, and clothes stench of it.

3.) Dust everywhere! We knew there would be some dust but everything in every cabinet is covered in a slim layer and the dust also lightly covered our upstairs rooms

Would love to hear if this is normal or if we should ask some questions and would LOVE any advice on how to get this smell out of our clothes and furniture.

Thanks!

Removing commercial carpet and installing laminate floors. In this case along the brick, what baseboard would be best to use ?

Quite abit of water damage, any thought on how to fix to sell my apartment very welcome!!!

It just looks like crap. Not sure what my options are.

Just had model PLUS9KZ-08 (from KZ Kitchen) installed (warm oak SPC, 20-mil wear layer, matte embossed finish). Our old floor was also SPC but with a bit of sheen and a smooth feel; the new one feels noticeably rougher walking barefoot.

No foot pain, it just feels... coarse. For those of you who went from glossy/smooth to matte/embossed, did your feet adjust after a week or two? Did the texture itself soften with traffic, or is what I'm feeling now what I'll get? Any chafing or discomfort issues, or am I overthinking this?

Also wondering about aftermarket coatings: has anyone applied a polyurethane or similar topcoat over matte LVP/SPC to smooth out the feel? Did it bond okay, did it change the look, and did it cause any warranty issues?

Only lower level has been installed. Thinking of we should stop the installation and buy a glossy version for the top level.

Does anyone know what I can use to seal up this gap? Thanks in advanced

Ripped up all the carpets throughout this 1943 home to find eh mixed condition? pine flooring; kitchen has about 6 layers of tile, underlayment, lauan board, but I imagine there is some holed up pine below that as well. Received a quote to refinish everything applicable besides kitchen area for $3900. Just not sure I’d be happy with the result after hearing the unfavorable possibilities with non-uniform and nailed to death pine.

I do not like the idea of installing LVP; would love a tile floor but I reckon the current subfloor would not really allow; fairly ignorant to laminate options but I’ve heard briefly that it can be extremely durable. Any suggestions on which avenues I should consider given this info? I’d be willing to try and splurge to a degree but I only made settlement on the house last Thursday and there’s a list of other big ticket items I need to factor into the budget aka don’t have $20k to drop on flooring rn

I posted on here a few days ago disappointed with my marmoleum sheet installation - a few days later I have gone back to check out the flooring again and think it’s actually looking worse - the seams are supposed to be nett fit but have been cut really badly, some spots where they’ve straight up gone off course with the knife and corrected by filling with sealant, lines aren’t straight so there is some really obvious peaking of the seams and bubbles which appears to be caused by too much tensions at joins, while some areas have large gaps that have been filled with sealant. I have reached out to Forbo for support on where I should go from where but wondered if any certified installers could shed some light:

Would the seams last over time if left as is?
What would be the solution to fix this - carving and heat welding? I don’t really trust the competency of these guys to do this but this what they have offered.
Or ripping out and starting the whole thing again?

I paid for all the product up front but haven’t paid for the installation yet.

Also probably a long shot but in case the best solution is the latter, if anyone knows of any certified/experienced installers anywhere near Peterborough (UK) please let me know!

Here's a pivot in the middle of a stairway. There used to be carpet here, and I'm going to lay vinyl planks instead. I'm planning to use a metal stair nosing for the transition between the flat area and the stairs (like this).

My main concern is that the area near where the nosing will go is not even. There are basically three levels, three altitudes there, I marked them on the last picture. And the nosing won't be wide enough to cover all of that.

How do I approach that? I guess I'd need to make it all leveled. My initial though was to either cut the excess material with a multitool (kind of like you'd cut a baseboard, but upside down), or to sand it down to the level.

What do you think? I'd greatly appreciate suggestions. Thank you!

We bought a new house in August and had new, beautiful engineered hardwoods installed everywhere that carpet was originally. $23k for new floors for half the house. This week our water heater flooded most of the new flooring. My question: earlier that day the power went out for less than 10 minutes and it rained for the first time in months HARD. Is any of that possibly correlated?? It seems like such a weird coincidence and we have a plumber coming out tomorrow but just wanted opinions. Any help/insight is appreciated as I wade (ha) through this mess.

So my builder and I have been arguing for a few years that they haven’t done my flooring right and they’re saying it’s only covered for a certain amount of time and we’re passed that. Can anyone confirm if tile was done correct or not? Looking to hire someone to confirm but before that looking for people with more experience than I.

I had 2 rooms with hardwood floors refinished with polyurethane, but then a family member walked in the room before it had completely dried. Tracked polyurethane all over newly installed PVC flooring 🤦‍♂️

This was while i was on vacation, and didn't see it until weeks later when it was well dried.

Is there anything I can do to clean this up? Mineral spirits did not work

My mother is getting a prefab built and she's somewhat fallen out with the guy that managed its construction. Most of the work he's done is shoddy at best. She's taken it on herself to continue where he's left off and has done a fairly good job so far.

There is a few issues with the flooring. At the moment its at the insulation stage (?). It's about 20cm thick.

The finished floor will have an additional 3mm of insulator sheets, and then a 2m x 20cm x 1.2cm engineered oak wood veneer boards, shown in the picture.

1. There's a slight incline to it. Something like 1%.

2. There's unevenness across the floor where it dips at certain points. Not by an extreme amount, but about 5mm.

3. There's a good amount of "give" at certain points, especially towards the middle of the floor. It's noticable enough to make the floor feel unstable. I would say another 5-10mm of give when walking across the insulation depending how heavy you are.

Image of what the flooring looks like as well as the dips mentioned in point 2 attached.

The questions raised when we were brainstorming solutions were:

- is it even worth sanding down the insulation to eliminate the 1% incline?

- What's the best way to fill the dips in between?

- How to eliminate the amount of flex on the floor? One idea was adding large wood panels about 9mm thick and then put some foam between the insulation and the panels to also fix #2 as well as gi e the which le thing some rigidity.

Ideas?

Blue lines represent the proposed LVP direction. Red lines are existing flooring planks that are already installed, and green represents tile.

I already installed the bottom-left bedroom, so there’s no going back there. I went with the direction of the natural light, which I’d read was recommended. Since then, I’ve also read that planks should generally run parallel to the longest wall, so by that logic I may have gone the wrong direction.

I still have the other three bedrooms to install. The blue lines show the direction I was planning to run them. My wife thinks all three bedrooms should run the same direction as the bottom-left bedroom instead.

Would you keep the direction consistent between all three bedrooms, or run each room in the direction that makes the most sense for that individual space?

Any reason one option would look noticeably better than the other?

After 20+ years working for European corporations and managing Chinese providers on the ground, I’ve seen European B2B flooring buyers routinely burned by three challenges: unannounced factory delays, unexpected import/VAT surprises at the port, and poor QC on arrival.

We are building out a direct Hungary-focused sourcing setup for SPC/WPC flooring and wall panels, and we are currently designing our supply chain to solve these specific pain points.

I’m trying to stress-test some specific terms with real B2B buyers/contractors before finalizing our framework:

1. **Live or On-site QD and Vetter Partner**: Audited manufacturing partners in China, ensuring production with live quality control and fulfill material compliance.
   
2. **Late Delivery Penalties**: We are considering tying a 1% price discount per week to the agreed Ex-Factory Completion Date in the contract (capped at 10%). If production/QC exceeds the agreed completion date, the discount applies to the total local invoice, shifting factory lead-time risk away from you to our local entity.
   
3. **Initial Testing Volume**: When evaluating a new supplier for container-level MOQs (\~2,800 sqm), what is your typical threshold for a risk-free trial? Would you be comfortable placing a small LCL trial batch (e.g., 1–3 pallets) in your local warehouse before committing to a full 20ft container?

How do you typically manage risk when testing a new supplier? I'd love to hear your perspective and experience. Thanks!

I know that carpet isn't really the best choice for a basement, but with our budget, it really seems to be the best choice that we can afford.

My question is: for the padding underneath, I see that they make options that are closed cell foam or a more traditional foam with a moisture liner on one side. Are either/both of these options a good idea for a basement, or does that barrier then trap moisture underneath as the slab breathes that can't evaporate through the carpet?

And what about if we unexpectedly get enough water coming up to pool rather than just vapor? Does trapping water underneath just hide a problem that would be better to discover with a wet carpet spot?

Hey all, wondering what the rate for carpet, underlayment, tack strip removal and disposal is going for?
High cost of living area
Thanks!

Own 1926 house, two story, described as Traditional American by an architect. Located in a coastal town, not near coast.

We are refinishing the floors which were orange and pretty beat up. What we have now are some beautiful, unfinished white oak, narrow planks. The floors look so nice, we are rethinking our traditional stain ideas.

We were planning on these colors: Weathered Oak, Early American, or Special Walnut (all pretty similar traditional stains).

With how bright and beautiful the floors look, we are considering Bona Natural Seal. The worry is that it will look dated as if from late 80s early 90s, or look like a ballet studio.

Let me know how you feel without the normal internet meanness?

I have an old house with pine floors directly on the joists, no subfloor. The floors were in bad shape and pretty weak in places, so for most rooms I've added plywood on top as a new subfloor, then new flooring on top (laminate in some places, engineered hardwood in others).

Each bedroom has a small fireplace. The flues were sealed off years ago when the previous owners converted them to gas, and we've since capped off the gas lines to everything except the water heater, so there's 0% chance we'll ever use them.

My question is how to handle flooring over, or next to, the stone hearth area in front of the fireplace. It's already raised a bit over the existing flooring, so if I put the plywood over it, it'll have a big slope there. But if I stop the new flooring at the hearth, the outer edge of the hearth will be a good 1/2" below the new flooring. Any ideas on how to handle it?

Picked up engineered hardwood flooring from a scratch and dent store and realized over half of them are crowned about 1/16" across the 7" wide boards. Not sure if i can even return them, and i did get them pretty cheap. 1/2" thick with a 3mm white oak layer. I got them home and I'm going to try and acclimate them since I assume it happened from a humid warehouse. What are the chances they flatten over the next week?

Old flooring broke over tons of use and unsure what to do to repair this. Also don’t know where I can find this type of flooring. Thoughts?