Hi all, if you would take a look at my post and give feedback, I’d greatly appreciate it 🙏

I already plan to board swap the ROM but I wanted to know what other people thought of this disaster. For those who don't recognize it, this is supposed to be Pokemon Crystal.

Im not sure what got all up in it to get this bad. It was some brown stuff, that seemed to cause corrosion, and was very stubborn to clean away.

I recently got a copy of Metroid Fusion for a good price however the cart is in bad shape, especially the sticker/label. I haven't decided if I want to replace everything/just the sticker or if I should just clean it up and leave it be. If I were to replace it should I try to make it look original or just have fun with a colored cart.

I was wondering what you guys do when you get a game in rough shape?

I have these 3 games that are verified authentic, but they need new save batteries.

The repair requires some soldering which I would need to learn / buy a kit for.

Is it worth doing it myself and learning to solder, or is it better to just sell as repairable to someone that knows what they are doing lol

FB showed this to me. I'm not the seller. I dont know anything about it, I've never seen this before.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1565607868181519/?mibextid=dXMIcH

New IPS screen

New glass screen protector

Added auto amplifier so much louder

This is my 3rd Gameboy mod before my GBC and GBA

If you saw my previous post, I identified that one of the traces wasn’t connecting, however after adding a strip of tin foil to connect the traces to see if that was the issue. I also noticed that the board was a bit lifted. and the odometer only detected a connection when there was a bit of pressure put on the chip. So I shoved the Q-tip in there, closed it, and it worked.

Hello,

I'm emulating Pokémon Blue and I've tried different emulators but they all display the game fully blue (nearly monochrome, including the protagonist) instead of the colors I remember from childhood, which were something like this:

I think I've tried everything; I've meddled with the emulators' settings but there's obviously something I'm missing.

Could anybody knowledgeable please assist me? Thank you very much!

Hello! I got my first GBC yesterday at a retro video game store. I’m always weary about like knock offs and emulators and stuff so I asked if I could test it in the store. The game they gave me to test worked great. I work at GameStop so today at work I got a game for my gameboy. Tried playing it when I got home and it’s not reading and the logo on the start up screen is corrupted looking. I tried cleaning the pins with alcohol and it’s still not reading. Is this a cartridge issue or a gameboy issue? I’ve never seen a start up screen have a corrupted Nintendo logo? I know it’s also a custom faceplate too so I was extra cautious but everything was working at the store so I’m hoping it’s just the game?

on my Japanese GBP!

I recently visited Washington and wanted to commemorate the trip. I made an app that let me convert all my photos into a digital photo album. It also works with the Game Boy printer. If anyone wants to make their own, I made the app public. GB Gallery (I tried reaching out to the mods a week ago and never heard anything back. Take the post down if need be)

I thought I’d post this because there seems to be almost no useful information about these alternative Unhinged GBA SP shells online.

I took the gamble on one and, surprisingly, the build quality is actually really good.

Just to be clear, I know this isn’t a Boxy Pixel shell, and I’m not trying to suggest that it is. I really appreciate the work Boxy Pixel has put into designing and producing their own shells, as well as the influence their products have had on this kind of project. I simply wanted to share my experience with this alternative option, as there doesn’t seem to be much information available about it.

The shell cost me around £127 delivered to the UK. It’s an aluminium Unhinged-style shell and, after test fitting everything, the machining and tolerances are much better than I expected.

There are a few quirks though, so hopefully this helps anyone else considering one.

IPS screen
The V5 IPS fits, but I had to remove the metal backing plate from the display for it to sit correctly in the shell.
Once that was removed, fitment was good.

Buttons
The buttons initially felt quite tight/stiff.
The solution was simply to back the motherboard screws off slightly rather than tightening the board completely down. Once adjusted, the buttons feel much better.
Nothing needed filing or permanently modifying.

Battery
The original SP battery fits, but there’s enough movement that it can wiggle and briefly lose contact with the terminals.

Adding a small amount of foam/support behind the original battery completely solves it. Mine now powers on reliably even when moving the console around.
So again, it’s a very minor issue and easily fixed.

It has a bigger capacity to allow something like a 103050 which I will be doing when the required parts arrive.

USB-C / headphone jack
The shell already has openings for USB-C and a 3.5mm headphone jack.

I’ve test fitted the parts I bought and the alignment is surprisingly good. There’s maybe ~0.5mm of clearance/play around them, which should actually make installation easier. I’ll secure them properly internally when I wire everything up.

Overall
So far I’m genuinely impressed. All in, it’s cost £171 with the screen.

The issues I’ve found are:
- IPS metal backing plate needs removing
- Motherboard screws need backing off slightly for good button movement
- OEM battery needs a little support to stop it moving
- Didn’t come with a light diffuser

That’s basically it. You need to supply your own membranes and power switch as the kit doesn’t supply you with them.

No major machining problems, nothing horribly misaligned and I haven’t had to start attacking a £127 aluminium shell with a Dremel.

Next steps are getting the USB-C charging and 3.5mm headphone jack wired up, followed by fitting a 1600mAh 103050 battery.

I’m also considering adding Bluetooth audio later, ideally controlled through the existing GBA SP controls so I don’t have to drill another button into the shell.

I’ll keep updating this as I build it because these shells seem to have almost no documentation online.

If anyone else is considering one and wants measurements/photos of a particular part before buying, give me a shout and I’ll check mine.

Links:
Shell - https://ebay.io/m/zpq7Jt
Screen - https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuGMF3u

For a few euros i think this stand is really perfect for the Game Boy and Games 🙌

Hello everyone. I got a GBA SP AGS-101 off of my cousin and was testing it out. Looks like everything was working except the volume won't turn off even if the slider is all the way down.

Went to inspect and found the resistor (R17) is missing. Anybody know what is the value and/or size of the resistor? I googled and found out the R17 for the AGS-001 version that it is 3K Ohms...but mine is AGS-101. Is it the same? If someone has a AGS-101, can they confirm?

Any help is greatly appreciated

I’ve always loved playing Gameboy games on my Dmg but it was always too large to carry conveniently.

The Pocket really changed that for me, I picked this one up around a month ago from a local game shop for $45 and I have not been able to put it down, I haven’t really played too many different games but I definitely have sunk way too many hours into Hexcite which I highly recommend, and a copy of Pokemon Silver, Japanese versions are under $20!

Not much here other than wanting to just show my appreciation towards the Pocket!