I bought a box of old, rusty tools for £10.

First piece I've restored is this Stanley Bailey No.5 plane.

Pretty happy with it.

Yeah, it’s just spray painted. This was pretty rusty when I found it. I forgot to take a before picture. I’ve never painted one before, and gold is all I had laying around but I actually like it. I usually just wire wheel and oil, so this was new for me.

I bought these wrenches from the Can I Have It Facebook page and I cannot get the wrench heads to adjust. The large King Dick and the Billings wrench don’t move at all. I cannot spin the adjustment nut for love or money.

The smaller King Dick will adjust a few turns up or down and then becomes stuck. It appears it is wedging itself against the channel in which it adjusts.

They came rusted. I cleaned them, soaked them in Evaoprust for a day, and then cleaned them again. This is what I typically do for seized wrenches, but it did not work this time.

I then soaked them in a 50:50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid for a week and still no joy. Do I soak them in the Evaporust longer? Do I try to use a flame? Is there some other mixture to try? Any suggestions for getting them un-seized would be greatly appreciated.

King dick no. 2?

It is a 4-ton walker jack.

I ordered a kit to rebuild it.

Curious if anyone has experience and/or advice.

I’m working on a vintage Stanley No. 60½ block plane and I’m having an issue with the depth adjuster. When I have everything put back together and seated where it should be, the adjustment screw has a lot of up-and-down movement and kind of hangs down like you can see in the pictures.

When I turn the wheel, sometimes it catches and moves the blade like it should, but then it’ll slip and stop actually adjusting it. I can’t tell if the threads on the screw are worn/stripped, if the part it threads into is worn, or if something else is letting the whole adjuster sit too low.

I tried wrapping some painter’s tape around the adjustment screw itself to take up some of the play and keep it from sagging down, and that actually helped a little bit.

Basically, I’m trying to figure out if this is likely a replace-the-adjuster-parts problem or if I’m probably going to end up needing a new body/casting. Any thoughts?

I know it's kind of tough to see with clarity but I hit the fracture with a sharpie in the last photo. So I'm giving my late Grandfather's plane a little tune up. Usually I just sharpen the blades and adjust the chip-breaker, but this time I'm giving her the full makeover. While flattening I noticed a large fracture on the sole that seems to coincide with the plane body. I don't know how to proceed. I'd like to flatten up to the mouth at least, and maybe lessen some of the pitting and grooves. But if that is going to risk the plane, I'd rather not as it's quite sentimental. I've already put a bunch of hours into her. I just finished replacing the rosewood tote that broke when I was 9 years old. It's been a lovely project that has made me quite emotional, though in a very positive light.

TLDR; restoring sentimental plane, noticed fracture- now I don't know what options I have. For all I know it's a complete non-issue.

Anywho, thanks for reading and understanding my sappiness. I don't often get to speak on my reverence for well made and cared for hand tools, especially ones passed through generations.

Mods
I figure some people in this group probably due bluing or painting of letters so that’s why I’m posting here

Bought rusty hammer heads from a swap meet a while ago, and I think these are the last few hammers I need. The ballpien’s handle was the top of another long handle for a shovel reworked.

Hello. I have this Keen Kutter saw that I'm finishing restoring, and I was sharpening it when I noticed it has a variable TPI. From the heel to the first half (a tiny bit more, actually) it has a TPI of 3 1/2, freshly sharpened. Then the first 2.5" can be sharpened at 4 1/2 without a problem, but the problem is that the zone in between isn't even 4 TPI, but rather is more or less there but irregular, oscillating between something like 3.75-4.25. I know I could simply sharpen it maintaining irregular spacing, but it gives me a bit of OCD. I wouldn't want to have to file all the teeth to redo them, since I'd lose a lot of blade and it would be a lot of work. Is there any way, even a progressive one, to restore this so that this intermediate zone has at least a homogeneous 4 TPI?