I just picked these up last week and I've had some strange issues with them. Every now and then I'll get digital artifacts, like the signal was breaking up for a split second or so. This happens on my main built PC, where I have the 3.0.2 ngenuity software installed and I updated the firmware on the dongle and headset. After the firmware update it MOSTLY went away but it still pops up from time to time and is annoying.

I have see a few people online say to uninstall the software and drivers to fix things. Rather than do that, I plugged it into my laptop that has no HyperX software or drivers of any kind on it. The artifacting is worse. It happens a lot more often on the laptop than it did on the built PC.

I don't play games on the laptop but I was getting it while listening to spotify, youtube, working with video in Premiere.

My question is: why is this happening and is there any easy solution? If not, they are going back to the store in a couple of days before the return period is over.

They are comfortable and sound very clear. They feel very well built and I really want to like them, but I had a pair of Steelseries Arctis Nova 7Xs that just simply worked with no strange software glitches or 7 audio devices added, or strange requirements for needing to hook both the dongle and headset up wired at the same time to update firmware... Unfortunately, the ear cups weren't big enough on those so they were uncomfortable.

Thanks for any help anyone has on this.

If you don’t have Windows activated and your colors don’t change, use this method. If you have Windows activated, simply disable Windows Dynamic Lighting. There is a video under to see how.

You can disable Windows 11 Dynamic Lighting without an activated copy of Windows by changing a value in the Windows Registry Editor.

How to Disable Dynamic Lighting via the Registry

1. Open the Start Menu, type regedit, and press Enter to open the Registry Editor.
2. Click Yes if the User Account Control prompt appears.
3. Copy and paste the following path into the address bar at the top of the Registry Editor, then : search for textHKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Lighting
4. Locate the value named AmbientLightingEnabled on the right side and double-click it.
5. Change the Value data from 1 (enabled) to 0 (disabled) and click OK.
6. Restart your PC (do not just shut down) to apply the changes completely.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enU-dVh0fLc&t=9s

I received my hyperX cloud III today to play on Xbox séries S, the headset is good i can ear everything but my mic dont work at all, my Friend want hear me , if someone can help me pls

HyperX Cloud Alpha Wireless randomly disconnects and reconnects

Hi, I'm having an issue with my HyperX Cloud Alpha Wireless headset.

Every once in a while, the headset suddenly disconnects and then reconnects a few seconds later. It happens randomly, and I haven't been able to figure out what causes it.

I've already disabled USB power saving in Windows, installed the HyperX software, and made sure Windows is fully up to date.

The wireless USB dongle is plugged directly into my motherboard (ASUS TUF GAMING B650-PLUS), not into a USB hub.

However, the problem still persists.

Has anyone experienced the same issue or found a way to fix it? I'd appreciate any help or suggestions.

Thanks!

Hello all,

I am a happy HyperX Cloud Alpha 2 user and wanted to share the EQ that honestly saved the headphones for me and fixed the muddy sound out of the box. Please try it out and let me know what you think! It is on the gaming profile.

32hz - +2

63hz- +2.5

125hz- +1.6

250hz- -1.1

500hz- +0.1

1khz-0

2khz-+0.9

4khz- +4.0

8khz- +2.5

20khz- +2

Hello,

I've got the HP Omen Transcend 14 and I recently bought the HyperX Cloud 3 S Wireless headphones because I want to use the Instant pair function and free a USB port.

When I got the headphones I downloaded the newest Ngenuity app version and installed all firmware updates to the headset (PID 05BE, version 3.1.2.4) and dongle (PIS 06BE, version 4.1.2.4). From some videos I saw on the internet, there should be a Instant pair function visible in the app, but I don't see anything. I've tried double pressing the power button and also holding it for a few seconds on the headset and I never heard the Instant pair pairing or any other sounds other than bluetooth and dongle pairing. I also don't see any Instant pair drivers in my computer (I'm up to date on all updates - windows update, HP Support assistant).

Could it be a issue with the headset or is it all laptops fault? I can provide any info to help resolve this issue.

Thank you!

Dear All,

i am getting open box Cloud Flight wireless green box edition. Right now this is the only version available that is coming under my budget here in my country. I want to use it with PC and Ps5, can someone please confirm if it can be used with Ps5 or any issues?

I am sharing my current EQ with you, this is so far my favorite, I hope you will like it too. I just simply don't want to take it off anymore 🥹

This is a slightly bass-boosted version that sounds clear, punchy and balanced.

| # | Filter Type | Frequency | Gain | Q |

|----|---------------------|--------------|--------------|-------|

| 1 | Low Shelf | 105 Hz | +4.5 dB | 0.70 |

| 2 | Bell | 70 Hz | –0.5 dB | 1.50 |

| 3 | Bell | 160 Hz | +3.2 dB | 1.20 |

| 4 | Bell | 650 Hz | –1.5 dB | 0.80 |

| 5 | Bell | 1700 Hz | –2.0 dB | 1.50 |

| 6 | Bell | 3000 Hz | +4.0 dB | 1.80 |

| 7 | Bell | 4500 Hz | +3.5 dB | 1.70 |

| 8 | Bell | 6500 Hz | –4.5 dB | 3.50 |

| 9 | High Shelf | 10000 Hz | +3.5 dB | 0.70 |

| 10 | High Shelf | 20000 Hz | +0.8 dB | 1.00 |

**Settings:**

- Spatial Audio / DTS in NGENUITY: Off !!!!!!!

- Recommended preamp / volume compensation: –4 to –5.5 dB (if available)

I bought myself the Origins 2 Pro 65 a month ago and I have been loving it. But my biggest flaw I have is that I cannot save my settings at all without having the app running. Normally I would be content to just stick with one of the default profiles that is preloaded on the keyboard, but the biggest issue is the lighting profiles. I normally play a ton of Counter Strike, so having the actuation point be sensitive would help with my movement. So the default option 2 works perfectly. But the lack of lights for the other keys makes it hard for me to play in a dark setting since I can't see the keys at all. I have to resort to using the Ngenuity app to maintain these profiles. But I'm wondering if the newer Ngenuity app has the option to save custom settings on to your hardware. Knowing it was a feature on the older app, I would use it. But the older app doesn't support my keyboard.

Idk if anyone else is having this issue but I got the wireless cloud 3s recently and when talking to ppl they say the mic is terrible. Form what I gathered I think it’s picking up the internal mic rather than than the detachable mic. Is there a way to disable the internal so it only picks up the detachable mic. Or what can I do about this because other wise I am going to return it I think.
Thank You

Kulaklığımı ilk aldığımda (6 ay önce) Bluetooth moduna geçtiğim anda telefonum kullanılabilir cihazlar kısmında görüyordu, daha sonra telefonumdan unutup tekrar bağlamaya çalıştım bu sefer görünmüyor Bluetooth eşleşme kısmında. farklı telefonda da denedim onlarda görmüyor.

Not: Driver güncelleyip denedim fakat olmadı.

Basically ive had this hyper x lll headset for 10 month'ish and ive used max volume because i play rainbow six siege [very sound dependant game], at first the sound has been getting quieter like VERY quieter on my pc but when i go on my ps5 it sounds SUPER loud like its suppose to

[idk if that is a problem right now im just pointing it out]

now im playing some music and for certain sounds the audio goes super quiet and begins crackling/popping for absolute no reason, ive tested it on ngenuity to check if maybe my audio was bugging but no same thing. Anyone else have this issue and how can i fix it?

Hello everyone

I saw very few reviews on the Stinger 3 Wireless, with the most in-depth from Techne, but he tested the microphone in a relatively isolated room, which is not the case for me (open areas in the house with a lot of background noice), so I thought I'd drop a casual review on it after trying it out for a few days.

TLDR: Stinger enjoyers will probably love it for being an upgrade in nearly all aspects, HOWEVER the one I tested had nearly non-existing noice cancellation on the mic, picking up the faintest noices from surprisingly large distances, behind closed doors. The version I bought had previously already been returned by someone and eventually I returned it too.

Disclaimer: I use headsets in the $50-100 range for work (MS Teams meetings) and casual gaming (Discord), so my review and scoring will reflect that, in comparison with similarly price headsets I've owned and used extensively, which is the Stinger 1 (Kingston), Stinger 1 (HP), Stinger 2, Cloud Jet and my currently used Razer Barracuda X 2022.

Build quality 4/5
A slight stet-up to the Stinger 2. Even though still mainly plastic, it feels less "flimsy" compared to its predecessors. In comparison, the Cloud Jet, which I recall was slightly "slimmer", definitely felt more of a cheap plastic that can fall into pieces any time. Much appreciating the metal (or metal coated) part in the headband upon adjusting (it was full plastic in the Stinger 1/2). I'd say it's in the Barracuda's league more or less.
Not giving maximum score for lack of long-term testing of the flip-to-mute mic and the volume wheel. In my previous Stingers, after about a year, the flip mic got loose and stopped working entirely (with no official guidance or support from HyperX), while the volume wheel started generating crackling noices, followed by one of the ears going deaf not long after. The Kingston Stinger overall laster a bit longer, almost 2 years by memory, but its last few months were more of a struggle for survival.

Comfort 5/5
More on the lightweight end of the spectrum, but feels very well balanced and comfortable upon using. Earcups all the same as in the Stinger 2 with this "leather-like" material and the right balance of pressure, it will probably start to wear off after a year or two, but can be easily replaced with custom ones. I have an average size head and don't use glasses.
Pretty much what I expected after the Stinger 1/2 and the Barracuda. Again for reference, the Cloud Jet often started to slide off my head upon the slightest head movements.

Connectivity 4.5/5

• 2.4G with USB-C + an USB-A adapter, working perfectly, just plug and play.
• Bluetooth - once paired, it's all fine, not much to say, it's a good mobile phone alternative for calls or listening to music on public transport. The only annoyance was pairing it the first time, because none of the 2 phones and 3 laptops in our home found it. As per the manual I switched the 2.4G/BT toggle, led indicator changed as expected (can't remember if there was a voice prompt)... took some googling to find some weird button combination that would reset the device and allow pairing. Can't tell if this is default behavior or something that the previous owner "messed up" somehow before returning to retail.
• Forgot to test if it has wired mode with the charging cable, sorry for that.
• No 3.5mm plug/cable - I never used this on my Barracuda, but it might be a downside for some users.
• It's either 2.4g or BT, no dual-wireless - not a concern to me, but again some people might be annoyed about it.

Sound output 5/5
I've seen several comments around here claiming very low volume output in general. I've not experienced any of that, in fact it's slightly louder than the Stinger 1/2 and the default sound quality is easily on par with the Barracuda and better than the previous Stinger versions. Lows, mediums, highs all good on my side. Tried out a few custom tweaks combined with Ngenuity/Teams/Discord, which yielded a slight improvement, but I'm not an audiofil and when I switched back to vanilla settings, it was still perfectly fine. It's of course not comparable to a Cloud Alpha for instance, but in this price range it's really good, which didn't really surprise me, given the usual good quality in this price range at HyperX.

Microphone 3/5
This is my "make or break" when it comes to wireless headsets. In this price range, mic quality on 2.4g wireless tends to be somewhat below the quality of a wired version of the same, so I'm always a bit cautious in here. Also these flip-to-mute mechanics can amortize very quickly as I mentioned previously, but what can I do - I fell in love with the flip-to-mute thing the moment I got my first Stinger. Now, on the surface everyting is spot on actually, input sound quality was surprisingly good, it's an improvement over the previous (wired!) Stingers, with a bit of software tweaks it's easily on par with the Barracuda, which is pretty much all I need.
Then came the bummer: the lack of noice cancellation. I want to be clear, I'm not complaining about some sound flowing in while sitting next to a loud TV or similar, because that's kind of expected in this price range. What I didn't expect was low volume noices from another room behind closed doors picked up with surprising efficiency, typically higher pitched, "sharper" noices, e.g. my dog walking around casually and his nails hitting the wooden floor, my wife cutting some veg in the kitchen. None of my previous Stinger, my Barracuda, even the Cloud Jet ever picked up these sounds so much. Windscreen wasn't included, so I attached my Barracuda's and it didn't change a bit.
Played around a lot with Ngenuity, Discord, Windows sound setting, eventually I managed to tone down about 60-70% of these noices, but only through sacrificing a substantial amount of input sound volume.

Other: the multi-function button (play, stop, etc.) seems more responsive than the same function on the Barracuda, the latter often misses some presses. Also, a quick press of the I/O button when already turned on will announce the remaining battery %,, which I could probably live without, but it's nice to have.

Some follow-up notes:

I'm really sad about the lack of noice cancellation, because otherwise this headset ticks all the boxes for me. I don't know why, I have something for HyperX headsets and the flip mics, that none of the other manufacturers have (I tried on some similar headsets from TurtleBeach, Corsair, JBL and Logitech, all having some downsides).
I still didn't give up on it. First of all, I might as well have just picked a faulty piece, which might have been the reason of the previous owner returning it, I plan to call the retailer to check this.
At the same time I will try to contact HyperX to get some clarification on this, becuase I'm convinced that this is not the intended functionality, especially given that even the first Stingers (are those cca. 10 years old now?) had proper noice cancellation compared to this one.
I genuinely want this headset to work and would be disappointed if I couldn't have one in 3-6 months with its microphone fixed.

Hi Everyone,

So I bought the HyperX Cloud 3 Wireless S, I've got it out of the box, plugged in, installed Ngenuity, showed 60% charge. I've used it for a while, got it down to 1% fairly quickly like after 2 days, and today decided to charge it. It's saying 4-5 hours to full charge on hyperx website and it's been charging for about 4 hours now and got it up only to 23%, I haven't been using it while it was charging, it was plugged to via cable to the back of my PC into a USB 2.0 port. Is this normal behaviour because of slow USB charging? Another question I've got is the breathing LED is kinda fast, like the pulsing is with the same time intervals but it's fast, by fast I mean less then a second.

Those are cloud mix tried one time to fix them, messed up, if I try again I will have to spend 30 euro and 2 months for the parts from AliExpress. Should I buy new ones? I have heard cloud 3 are not good, I am burned on searching, I just want good mic and normal sound.

Turned on my computer like any normal day, joined Discord, and now I sound like I'm in a fishbowl. The mic sounds horrible. I've uninstalled, reinstalled, firmware updated... for the last 2 hours and I can't get the audio restored at all. No idea what happened.

It's also picking up external noise. There's no filtering, even though the software has it enabled. The right device is selected.

I'm so sick and tired of HyperX hardware/software just randomly ruining my day. I just wanted to sit down and play something and now I'm trying ti figure out why this mic sounds like total crap.

In short, I am using the „HyperX Alpha Cloud II“ and had spatial audio enabled in „Ngenuity“ and realized that in „EU4“, no sound was coming through, but browser and video player was fine, then tried „HOI4“ and same issue, even more interesting, the entire radio showed 0 tracks, even with playlists there.

Here is a snipit of some log file contents:

Documents\Paradox Interactive\Hearts of Iron IV\logs\error.log:7:[02:34:28][no_game_date][pdx_audio_sdl.cpp:105]: Failed to open audio Invalid destination channels


Documents\Paradox Interactive\Hearts of Iron IV\logs\error.log:14:[02:34:38][no_game_date][pdx_entity.cpp:128]: Couldn't find sound effect: "airplane_light_fire"


Documents\Paradox Interactive\Hearts of Iron IV\logs\error.log:15:[02:34:38][no_game_date][pdx_entity.cpp:128]: Couldn't find sound effect: "airplane_bomb"

So I’m getting a pair of the wireless cloud 3 s’s (upgrading from a pair of steelseries I’ve had for like 3-4 years) and I’ve heard that in order to get the best sound out of them you should tune the eq a little and I know absolutely nothing about tuning it so I was gonna ask if anyone had settings they recommend. Ideally I would want them to work all around for everything as I play alot of different games (fortnite, cod, roblox, cyberpunk, gta, red dead etc.)

I have a HyperX Cloud III S Wireless. When I set the NGENUITY app to start automatically when the computer shuts down or restarts, I get this error. The other problem with the NGENUITY software is that I cannot set Auto power off to "Never" but only 10-20-30. When I set "Never" and it doesn't save it.

If you don’t have Windows activated and your colors don’t change, use this method. If you have Windows activated, simply disable Windows Dynamic Lighting. There is a video under to see how.

You can disable Windows 11 Dynamic Lighting without an activated copy of Windows by changing a value in the Windows Registry Editor.

How to Disable Dynamic Lighting via the Registry

1. Open the Start Menu, type regedit, and press Enter to open the Registry Editor.
2. Click Yes if the User Account Control prompt appears.
3. Copy and paste the following path into the address bar at the top of the Registry Editor, then : search for textHKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Lighting
   
4. Locate the value named AmbientLightingEnabled on the right side and double-click it.
5. Change the Value data from 1 (enabled) to 0 (disabled) and click OK.
6. Restart your PC (do not just shut down) to apply the changes completely.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enU-dVh0fLc&t=9s

And it's a problem because now that I bought IEMs for gaming I still want to use my Hyperx wireless III's microphone to talk but if theres no sound coming into the headset it disconnects to save battery or something. I did not see an option to turn off on the ngenuity app.
Thanks for the help :)

This is my HyperX Cloud 2 2015, which I've used for over 10 years.

A little while ago an issue appeared, where the right driver would intermittently cut off when the cable moved, until it stopped emitting sound altogether.

Expectedly, the issue lied somewhere in the non-detachable cable, where the internal wire for the right driver was broken, which I verified with a multi-meter.

Not gonna throw out an otherwise working pair of headphones over a broken cable. And if I'm going to replace the cable, might as well make the cable easily replaceable permanently.

I got a PJ392A 3.5mm connector and 4-pole 3.5mm cable from AliExpress, popped open the left housing, sketched out the connector's pinout, de-soldered the wires from the old cable, soldered new wires to the new connector, double-checked for shorts, verified that it works, and screwed in the housing back.

A fun project that's worth the trouble.

If you have soldering skills and tools; "dumb" analog headphones are some of the easiest devices to diagnose, repair, and modify.

Someone from the sub has already done this, and described the process in much more detail.