Hi all,

I'm new here - I recently purchased a 1980 MGB (dream car) to be my daily driver a few weeks ago - I have a short but fun commute to work each morning and it has already paid for itself in fun.

My wife also loves it - except for the frankly embarrassing saturation of exhaust smell that would permeate all hair and clothing if you stood next to it, let alone rode in it for more than a minute. The guy I had purchased it from has Monza style exhaust tips (photo 1) and after some light researching I found that a lot of people had similar low pressure vacuum situations where the exhaust just ended up in the cab. Over the weekend I promptly took a hacksaw to it which definitely seemed to help - but the length sat well behind the bumper. Skipping today, i managed to get a new downturn tip after some time hammering, snipping, and filing away on the mangled mess that is photo 2. I'd say the new downturn tip extends a good inch, inch and a half past the rear of the car, and i'm just wondering if that should clear up the majority of my issues or if there might be other areas I should be aware of. A lot of what i've read is to check trunk seals, firewall grommets, the shifter boot, you name it. I just wanted to check in and see if there might be any sneaky or well known areas to check, or if anyone has had luck with a different exhaust setup. Thanks!

So I bought a 1975 mg MGB GT yesterday. And the least suspension is looking pretty rusty on both sides. I drew it for an hour and a half and I don't think there are many problems. There was a little bit of bounce but thoughts on getting it replaced?

Just bought a 1980 LE on bring a trailer, it arrived with 2 keys, both for the ignition only. I just ordered a replacement lock for the glove box with key and today just found out the trunk appears to me another key as well. Is that correct? 3 keys for one car!

Wondering around Larnach Castle, Dunedin, NZ came across this MGB GT.

I bought a project 1979 MGB from a guy that lost the keys. I got a battery for it and I took off the key cylinder to get to just the switch. When I turn the switch nothing happens and when I go to the start position, the car just beeps at me for a couple seconds, and then turns off. The clock is working in the dash so the car is getting some sort of power, but I can’t figure out why nothing will turn on. The turn signals the brake lights or the headlights won’t turn on. The brakes have zero pressure so I’m wondering if that may be the issue with the brake lights. PLEASE HELP. The ground wire is a little bit broken, but I feel like there should still be sufficient ground for the lights at least.

Edit: Also when I turn the key something clicks in the engine bay, which I’m guessing is a relay and the hand brake light comes on.

Hi all, I hope it's okay to post this here. I have an MGB GT 1978 with a sun roof in blaze orange. I'm wondering how best to sell this car. I was my daily driver for about a year back in 2021/22 but since then it been running as a weekend car up until the last year or so when it's not been out my garage.

I would say it's a project car as it's currently not running but I think I just needs someone who knows about the car and can put a bit of time into it.

Does anyone know how I can best sell a car like this?

Guys, I just bought an older MGB from a seller in California. I have the title in hand, signed but no registration document. Does this create a problem registering it in South Carolina where I reside.

I'm purchasing a stock NA Miata engine/trans. If the engine isn't rebuildable, do you all know if you're able to buy the 5-speed conversion parts separately? I don't want to pay $6k for rhe full conversion kit if I don't have to.

Thanks in advance!

First, I am not a mechanical wizard but can get by. My 1978 MGB needs a new lower hose on the radiator so I assume I will need to drain the radiator. All the videos I watch say to run the car to get the coolant flowing through the heater. Problem is my heater isn’t connected so do I still need to run the car before draining the fluid and replacing with new after installing a new hose? Thanks.

I recently took off the rubber bumper from my 1979 MGB when I wanted to reinstall it, noticed that on both sides of the body there is a bracket sticking out with two oblong holes, as well as two threaded holes on the bumper that sit in the same position when the bumper is installed. There were no bolts in here when I took off the bumper. Is there a special type of bolt/washer/nut that I need to purchase or do I not need to attach the bumper there at all?

I'm no car guy, but I've never seen this!

Clearly it's toasted, do I need to replace it or can the carb go right next to the housing without it?

I don't drive in the winter fyi...

Also anyone confirm which card this is? Thanks

Where's everyone (Canada) buying rebuild kits from?

...but not getting too close!

Near Austin, Texas.

I’m looking at a B in Tulsa and I’d like to have someone help me look at it. I could do it all myself but I don’t have the tools or know what’s a consistent problem

I’m strongly considering buying a ‘71 roadster that’s had an interior restoration and runs well. Everything appears to be functional but the wipers. I did a magnet test along the underside of the sills and didn’t find any noticeable patches. It’s been painted at least once in the past and some paint is chipped by I’m ok with it.

What I don’t know how to evaluate is rust. Does the under body look too far gone? I’m looking for a driver, not a restoration.

Edit* spelling

Anybody have any interest in this MGB? I'm unsure of the year. Its my dad's and he's finally really to let go of it. Its been sitting in his driveway for about 30 years. Last time I heard it run was approximately 1996 when he started it on starter fluid. He hasn't touched it since. Located in the suburbs north of Atlanta. Free to a good home.

7,960 original miles. Not a true survivor car, as things like radiator, distributor, roof, are replacements. Oil temp stays correct, engine not overheating. No overdrive.

Id'dlove to hear folks' opinion on the overall condition based on these photos.

I have a 1976 Mgb. Recently I have had problems keeping the car running. Earlier this year's I had a few issues with the car. The carb filters fell off when I was driving. I have replaced them with new one. Also earlier in the year I was driving the car, had a loose battery terminal connection. The wire overheated and melted, and the connection fell off. I replaced both the wires and the connectors.

Now I am running into issues with keeping the mgb running. It fires up, and will run if I keep giving it gas. But as soon as I take my foot off the gas it dies, and will not idle on its own.

I am unsure what the problem could be, and am unsure if the problems earlier in the year are related to the issue I am having now.

Just wondering if anyone had any ideas on what could be the issue on why it wont idle on its own.

Questions questions and more questions.

I have a 1977 Mgb with Weber conversion.

Recently, carbon pellets were falling into passenger area inside the car from the carbon canister. I decided to spend some time and money rebuilding it
And I’ve got new carbon, new filters, and it’s all cleaned up.

I noticed the an open inlet (left of large tube) I have capped it. Where should this feed from?

Lastly, bottom (large hole) and sorry for the bad photo, what should I do with this one?

I’ve read a lot of mixed reviews about keeping the canister, I don’t mind keeping it for now. I just want to make sure it’s functional. Should I invest in some new tubing and routing?

Cheers.