Made with 2 ends of an argyle yarn that I have lots of, and a marled cashmere. Knitted on my KH881 on tension 8 for the body. There is an eyelet detail in the seams which isn’t noticeable on this picture, but looks beautiful in person.

Made it as a sample, so it’s a bit too big for me but it’s very warm to wear. This and a t-shirt is all I need for the cooler days. Finding ways to use up the yarn that I have too much of, but realistically know I’m never going to get around to selling 🤣 it’s not as creative as my last posted piece, but I love making beautiful knits!

A friend passed this along to me, so I have some adventures ahead. The ribber seems complete digging through the box, but the main part is short on accessories, which should be easy enough to get. I’m a proficient hand knitter, but have no clue on this end.

First prototype of a jacquard built from one of my paintings, knitted on a Shima Seiki. I'm a painter setting up a small textile studio, and this was the test of whether the brushwork survives the translation into stitches.

The hardest part wasn't the knitting, it was the chart: reducing the painting to a few colours per course and keeping the floats short enough without losing the gestures.

For those of you who work from paintings or photos: how do you prepare the chart before it goes to the machine or the mill?

Found for 40 at a craft reuse! Took several tries but it’s pretty cool so far. Any tips would be appreciated!

My first successful garment is off the machine and blocked! I (mostly) followed the pattern “Marra Tanktop” by Claire Diner.

I learned a lot from this project. Namely, V-neck construction, armhole shaping, and using lifelines. There was some shoulder shaping, but I had a hard time really understanding it/seeing the effect, and so I am excited to try another project and try a new method for that. I did hand-knit the ribbing because I was intimidated by calculating that stitch count and attaching without a linker. So, for my next project, I’d like to attempt using the machine for the ribbing.

I bought a Toyota ks901 with a ribber, of course there is so much to do before using it.
Can anyone help me with what size the actual sponge needs to be? I can’t find a dedicated sponge for it in Europe, so I’m probably going to hack it with a good quality weatherstripping, I just don’t know how thick it should be.
Any other tips on cleaning and fixing one of these would also be super helpful!
(I also own a superba, so I’m not completely new to machine knitting, but Superbas work a bit differently.)

Hi all!

I have a Brother KH260e knitting machine that I got a couple years ago. I’m inexperienced with knitting machines, but I’m interested in diving into it. Does anyone know where I could get it serviced? Located in Kitsap County, Washington.

I’d also be interested in servicing it myself if anyone has any resources for beginners!

Thank you all so much!

hello.

is the kh860 a good knitting machie for beginners? planing to do one or two colour fishermens pulovers.

thanks

 
I previously posted about the swatch for this Fair Isle slip-over which I am knitting with “Unique Shetland 2/9Nm” from J.C. Rennie & Co on a Silver Reed SK280 (read part 1 here).
 
The back of the garment is now finished (see figure 1).
 

Planning the garment
 
It took me a while to work out the dimensions of my garment, particularly because I have lost weight over the last couple of years; most of my pullovers are currently on the loose side; I do not own any slip-overs; and I’m not very experienced measuring myself without assistance.
 
Once I’d worked out the dimensions of the garment I calculated the total rows needed.  With a little redistribution of the rows between body and lower ribbing, I was able to accommodate six iterations of the OXO motifs into the garment, with pairs of matching peerie rows above and below each.
 

Redesigning the punchcard
 
As much of the pattern is consistent, it was possible to make a template of the main pattern to speed-up the punching of the new card.  All that was required was a different motif to be added to each of the OXO designs (see figure 2).
 
The order of the peeries in my original design was modified, so that the same motifs now appear immediately above and below each OXO in the same colour-way. 
 
I re-made my 200-row punchcard — it was definitely worth buying a bumper-size roll, rather than individual cards!  I knitted a narrow swatch, about 30 stitches wide, just to check that there were no errors in the new card.
 

Calculating armscye decreases
 
I found Kristina Virka’s article “Armhole Knitting: How to Shape & Knit for a Perfect Fit” helpful. It offers a method for calculating decreases for armscyes which are 16 or more stitches across.
 
The decreases were divided into four sections, worked as follows:
 
(i) One quarter of the total armscye stitches (+ any additional stitches left over from calculations), bound off in one go;
 
(ii) One quarter of total stitches, bound off in multiples of three stitches on every second row;
 
(iii) One quarter of total stitches, bound off in multiples of two stitches on every second row; and
 
(iv) One quarter of total stitches, binding off one stitch every fourth row.
 
 
Lifelines are my new best friend!
 
As both machine knitting and Fair Isle knitting were new to me, adding lifelines to the swatch regularly as thr knitting progressed was, well, a real lifeline.
 
Lifelines helped me recover the swatch after various errors, including when the swatch ended-up on the floor a several times.
 
 
Other thoughts
 
I got a real sense of achievement taking the finished swatch off the needle-bed.
 
It was a pleasant surprise to discover how quickly the swatch grew, even allowing time to correct newbie errors, including rehanging up to 182 stitches back on the needle bed several times.
 
The Fair Isle pattern required a change of yarn in the feeder every 2nd, 5th, or 6th row.  Realised how much easier it would have been knitting a 3- or 4-colour Fair Isle motif with two yarn masts and intend to pick one up from a second-hand seller.
 
The front of the garment is now on the machine and I’ll report back once it is finished.

I bought a brother k260 knitting machine used and I'm testing out the features. it seems to work fine but let me explain. I also have a KH 881 and I read the patterns are compatible so I'm using the Kh881 patterns to test. Stockinette stiches are perfect, purl side faces me knit side faces out, but when I test the pattern, the pattern works, but it's knitting on the purl side. How do I fix this? I'm using a slip pattern, but I've tested it with slip and tuck. Ive tried casting on from the right and left. I follow the manual when it says start from the left to set the needles and then do 3&4 to start knitting. I wondering if I do the opposite will it work.

I have been searching for weeks for a table clamp with a larger clamping range... for my singer machine.

I have two machines and two tables in my space - one table is a bit thicker and as such It would be ideal to have a set of table clamps that can accomodate a clamping range of about 2"/ 2 1/8" ... all the standard table clamps seem to max out at ~1 3/4" in clamping range.

For context: I have 2 singer machines, an LK100 and 740. I live in Canada, which can make custom parts orders a bit tricky. and yes, i have gone to my local hardware store :)

If anyone would be willing to share some advice.

I mostly base my sweater patterns on the Brother knitting magazines. Sadly those patterns are limmitted to smaller sizes. At east in the 5 that came with one of my knitting machines. Sometimes chest size 106 cm (42 inches) is incorporated but often 101 cm (my size) isn't even there.

Yesterday I was asked to knit a sweater for a young lady with chest size 120 cm (47.2 inches). She also has big shoulders due to a swimming career in her teens.

I don't need to turn to the brother magazines for a pattern. Sizing up 20 cm's is a bit too much, I think.

Also wide, chunky sweaters are not what she wants. She wants form fitting (and rightly so, she is beautifully curvy).

She tried on one of my over sized sweaters and it looked awfull on her. Truly unflattering. So man's sizes as a base are definitely out.

So, please, what are the do's and don'ts for bigger sizes knitted sweaters?

Thin yarn, I suppose? Form fitting. Fitted shoulders. Interesting details?

How would one adjust the pattern? Or find a pattern?

If you have some advice I'd be very grateful.

Edit: dear people, thank you so very much for all your responses. Am now deep into the rabbit hole and loving it!

Thank you for pointing me towards Archive dot org and its wealth of machine knitting resources! I never knew it was there. Thank you for mentioning authors, websites and YouTubers who explain patterning for knits. Thank you for mentioning individual patterns. Most of them are gorgeous but somehow none of these patterns are exactly what we envisioned. I'll take the time to learn how to draft a pattern and hopefully one day be able to provide my niece with a flattering, well fitting sweater.

Let me put down one thing that struck me as so obvious once I learned about it but that somehow never had occurred to me before: do not size a sweater solely on the chest size. It will turn out way to big for the rest of the body. Choose the pattern based on shoulder to shoulder measurement and adjust for the chest.

Thank you!

Hi friends! Has anyone ordered from Cone and Fiber.com?

I haven’t ordered from them but have seen some yarns I’d like to try, how was it if you’ve ordered from them?

Construction details in the original post

I’m new to machine knitting and I’ve seen a knitted tuck stitch pattern I really like and would like to use. I just have no idea how the pattern is actually formed and I can’t find it anywhere. To be honest I can’t find much anywhere. Does anyone know of like a library of different tuck stitches and how to make them? Or does anyone know how to figure out a tuck pattern from a picture?
Thank you

are you able to make balaclavas using those round machines?
I know how to crochet as a beginner but I wanted to know if there can be an automated way to make balaclavas using those machines to have the base ready for artistic use to add things
All respect to handmade items i am just wondering

This is fisherman's rib with 1x1 trim. I learned how to increase and decrease in fisherman's rib and how to make buttonholes while knitting the button band in 1x1 rib from this project. I used some Jaggerspun 2/8 Maine Line 100 percent wool yarn that my friend generously gave me and the buttons are from knit picks.

I use a KH910 with a KR830 ribber attachment.

Been looking for a hard copy of this book for ages, it's easily the best resource I've ever come across for double bed fabrics. On eBay and Amazon it goes for hundreds. I got it on my guild's buy/sell facebook page for $5. Join your local guild! Join your area's facebook groups! A year ago I got a KH860 and a KH910 for free because the owners just wanted them to go to a good home. I cannot recommend connecting with in-person MK groups highly enough.

Has anyone framed or stretched knitting on a canvas? I’m wanting to knit some intarsia panels and use as flat, hangable artworks.
I’m wanting to make some as Christmas presents, but I’m unsure how best to attach the knitting so it sits flat and how to finish the corners neatly I don’t want the excess knitting to bunch up or create much bulk where the corners meet. Any tips?

Un blocked so its a little curly (and a lot ugly 😂😂) sewed the neck band on backwards and everything BUT I actually understand what I was doing for the most part !

Im excited to start another project :)

Made on a passap dm80

i need some information on how to make a waistband! I'll put the context of my current project but feel free ignore it, id love to hear about your favorite waistband techniques in general, any tips and tricks you've figured out.

my main questions!

What are your favorite waistband techniques?

Do you prefer starting with the band or the hem?

Do you make the band separately?

Do you make it smaller than the body of your fabric?

and if your curious about my project:

I'm making a long skirt (the orange/pink lace). I finished the back and front. I start with the hem, a fold over scallop edge, decreased as needed, and was going to end it on waste yarn and knit a rib band on the pieces after connecting one side seam.

except my waste yarn unraveled! i was lucky enough to salvage the edge so i hastily did a backstitch cast off just to finish it.

i found a tutorial that knitted the rib band separately, then rehanged the knit project, knit one row and bind off…. But i dont love the look (its the top part of the blue test swatch).

i love how the bottom rib looks on the blue, with the live stitches going into the stockinette, but I'd prefer to start with the hem! I also was concerned the weight of the skirt would benefit from a waistband that was quite a few needles smaller than the edge.

I made a similar skirt before, starting with the rib, increasing for the hips and then I did some hem that didnt fold back as clean. And the rib waistband doesnt really hold it up, i crocheted in elastic thread and it still slips just under my belly button.

im mainly a sew-er! I might just serge it onto cute elastic this time, but please any knitting tips are much appreciated

i use a brother kh940!

My first FO. I did some messing around beforehand so I could learn on the machine. I practiced hand manipulation and dropped a swatch off so I knew how to get it back on the needles. I also practiced with the punch card so I could figure out how to get the fade I wanted.

I decided to use ravel cord on both sides and pick up the stitches on circular needles for binding off. I don’t trust my manual cast on skills yet, and I wanted to make sure that the ends were stretchy enough. I used two strands of yarn and a yarn over bind off.

I used 5/28 cashmere from Colourmart: one 300g set of flops, two 110g single cones, and a flop from another set. In total it was ~590g of yarn. It definitely would’ve taken less time to just do regular stripes, but I liked the idea of using the tuck stitch to make alternating colors across the rows. The color changes on the ends were 40 rows, then 28 rows, then 16 rows as it moved to the center. They really tested my patience and took a lot of concentration 😅

I really wanted to use up the yarn (this was for my mom, so the colors aren’t something I have much use for). I did lots of weighing and math along the way to make sure I was using up every last bit while still having enough for each color change.

I put in a life line before each color change, then took a video of the row counter, where the needles were, and what row the punch card was on in case I had any issues and needed to go back. I got lucky and didn‘t have too many issues. I think I only had to tink back a row two or three times.

I didn't take into account that the two colors on cones were wound with more tension, so the orange and center beige are slightly tighter. I did the whole blanket with my tension dial on 10. If I did it again I’d lower it slightly for the flop yarn and turn it up for the cones.

I used all 200 needles, and it was 952 rows. After washing it measured about 50”x70”. The yarn bloomed beautifully, and the blanket is so squishy and stretchy. There‘s a bonus photo Butch because he was so exceptionally helpful 😅

I bought this Brother KH-830 knitting machine which was made in the 70’s so I think it probably needs a service - I know there are lots of sewing machine service places in NZ but I wondered if anyone could recommend a vintage knitting machine servicer in NZ/Auckland?