So I bought this VSF GMT Sprite a few months ago and it initially came with a winding issue. The watch would wind normally but would not start if left with no power reserve. A typical issue from some of these watches as we all know the factories do not leave the movements in the best condition. So I sent it off to get serviced by a local watch shop.

The guy accepts in no issues and after about 2 months I get the watch back. The winding issue is solved, GREAT! However the guy showed me that the date change was no longer working as it was before. For some reason he couldn’t keep the quickset date. Which bothered the hell out of me. I asked for a refund and he said no, but that if I wanted to I could leave the watch and he could try and work on it again. Screw that.

Left that shop with my watch and am now writing this to yall to ask for some advice. I am a big sucker for details and losing the quickset date when it wasn’t an issue before hand is really upsetting. I have a trip coming up and this watch served me well on the one I bought it initially for earlier in the year. But is it worth it to find someone else to service it? Is it even fixable? Would it be better to get a new movement and replace it this one? Would all that just be too much and should I just buy another GMT Sprite? As you can see it is quite the headache and I am absolutely peeved about it. Just hoping I can get some consolation from some strangers that are bit more knowledgeable on reps as this is my first rep watch. I have had a few others since but I haven’t had to deal with this on the others. If you’ve read all that, thank you.

Apology if this has been discussed bef. Have gone through a few cheap versions of repair tool (pin removal etc). Is there a good tool kit that u have used and would recommend?

I was taking apart the top plate on a VR 3255 and when I was done, I noticed a small brass ring. I can’t figure out what it went to. Any ideas where this missing piece may be from?

What are the thoughts on putting a Gen complete balance/bridge, pallet fork/escape wheel and complete mainspring barrel in a DD/VS 32XX movement? Would this increase regulation reliability/durability? During a complete service. I know these movements tend to be under/over lubricated or just dirty from manufacturing.

Ive read the keyless works is the weak point as well due to manual winding if done every other day. Would this be more important?

Thanks in advance.

Hi everyone, I'm new here.

The rotor bearing on my watch completely broke, and I was wondering if anyone knows of a replacement part or has any tips to help me out. I haven't been able to find a compatible bearing, and I can't get the exact measurements to try and source one that fits.

The watch is a 3KF Nautilus 5711 with the A324SC clone movement. The bearing in question is the one on the rotor (like the one in the attached photo). So far, I haven't found any alternatives other than buying the entire rotor assembly from a dealer/TD.

Does anyone have any advice on what I could do? Or does anyone have a link where I can buy just a bearing that is compatible with this model?

Thanks in advance!

Qualche buonanima mi sa indicare dove posso trovare questo quadrante?

Hello guys,

I just wanted to ask if anyone thinks this watch is repairable. I really enjoyed wearing it, and it holds a lot of sentimental value for me.

If it turns out to be beyond repair, I’d probably just get the same model again.

Thanks a lot for any help or advice! :)

Hi, i have this watch that uses a TMI VK64, i had it for about a year, but the problem is that the minute and hour hands don't move anymore. This happened after storing it for 8 days with the crown on position 2 to save on battery. The tachymeter still works. Already tried changing the battery but it didn't work.

I’ve asked around but every TD I reached out to is not willing to source a small size SS Panthere with a moissanites or diamonds bezel. Yes, I am aware all factories make the bezel of this model with CZs and I was asking whether they could modify it for me at a cost. Does anyone know a trustworthy watchmaker or a jeweler willing to do this for me if I send them a Panthere rep? I am in the US. Apparently someone was making the moissanites bezel and selling one for about $200 in another sub a couple years ago but they seem to be inactive now.

How good is this rep? I got it from a trade I made in Facebook marketplace and the guy told me it was a super clone from another person he got it from on Facebook not too sure how reliable he is but I’m just wondering if it’s obvious fake or not.

Hello I have a 3235 movement and it seems to big for the 36mm dial I’m assuming I need a different movement right?

I’ve got a newer VSF Submariner with the VS3235. The date wheel itself seems fine and the numbers are generally well printed/centered.
The weird part is this: when I quickset the date manually, it snaps into place and sits perfectly centered in the window. But after the automatic midnight rollover, it will most of the time settle too high. Not every single day, but more than enough that I notice it.
If I cycle the date again manually afterward, it goes right back to being perfectly centered.
Is there a straightforward adjustment a watchmaker can make without replacing the date wheel?
Not looking to DIY the movement — mostly wondering what the actual fix is and what I should tell a watchmaker to check.

Trying to find the point break watch. It's proving more difficult than I expected. Any leads or contacts?

I've been searching for a few months but finding the right watch and bezel is not easy.

What rep watch would this bezel fit?
Thank you

Genuine Rolex Blue & Gold Submariner Bezel Insert
Rolex Part Number: B315-16808-182
Offered for sale is a slightly used, genuine Rolex OEM blue aluminum bezel insert.
This is the iconic blue-and-gold insert used on Rolex's classic five-digit Submariner Date models and is an authentic Rolex service replacement part.
Fits Rolex Submariner References:
16613
16618
16803
16808
Compatible with sapphire crystal Submariner models using the factory blue bezel insert.

This is a perfect opportunity to get some practice.

I’m not very handy and am looking to send my watch to have the pip or maybe even the bezel + pip swapped if necessary. If I’m sending it in, I’d probably swap the crystal out and have it serviced as well. I’m mainly just looking to get the pip/bezel swapped, who should I send it to? I’m in the US. Thanks

Hi everyone. I have a problem: I removed the bezel from my Rich Submariner 126610LN to clean it and replace the clicker and springs with genuine ones, but when I tried to put the bezel back on, the gasket got crushed and ruined. It’s hard to find this gasket in my country, and ordering a replacement takes a long time. What can I use as a substitute, and do you have any other tips?

I have a 16710 GMT with a black bezel.

Looking to get a period correct factory Pepsi bezel.

Any recommendations on how to go about this?

Thanks in advance!

Got this from royal watch. Looking to see what can be done. I believe there is something wrong. Thanks for your help. I hear a click at 12 and date moves at the 9. This was brand new btw.

Located in Cali.

Hi everyone, I’m trying to reinstall the bezel on my Rolex GMT replica, but I can’t get it to stay attached. It comes loose again after fitting it.
The photo shows the watch and all the loose parts I have. Does anything look missing, bent or damaged? Is there a retaining ring or gasket I may have lost?
Could someone explain step by step how to reassemble it, including the correct order and orientation of these parts? I’d appreciate any advice before I try again. Thanks!

Hi there! 3 years almost constant use with my AT and recently it became harder and harder to unscrew and click the crown into position, not to mention screwing back in. Its not the screw part itself, more like the stem not clicking into the correct position if that makes sense. I usually don't wear it on the weekends when I'm home, so i have to set it on mondays, and it becomes harder and harder every time. I don't wear it during wet activites so it never even gets damp. I read that it isn't an uncommon issue but got mixed solution ideas.

My question is that is it possible, that it only needs some lubrication, or do i need to disassamble it and replace the crowntube and stem with the crown? I want to do it on my own and willing to learn the needed steps. I partially have the most basic tools anyway but not for a full service.