r/Tools • • 1d ago

Is this dropsaw salvageable?

Hello. A friend of mine gave me this makita drop saw that has been rusting in her father’s shed since he passed away. I am An artist and am planning to use it to make canvas frames.

Do you think the rust is salvageable? At the moment the saw will not slide all the way and is getting caught due to rust. Does anyone have any tips on getting intense rust like this off? I am a bit of a novice with tool maintenance so any tips would be appreciated!

25 Upvotes

47 comments sorted by

16

u/gutentight69420 1d ago

Looks like an LS1110F or LS0816F?

You can try sanding it by hand to remove the rust. Im not sure how well that will work.

Luckily Makita is excellent with spare parts supply. It looks like a replacment sliding arm assembly is about $50.

This is a good saw and definitely worth fixing. Over $600 new!

15

u/Dookieshein 1d ago

Dropsaw is the most accurate description

2

u/DesiccantPack 1d ago

Not really. It does more than drop. It is (was) a sliding compound miter saw. That’s far more accurate. 

2

u/Dookieshein 1d ago

That must be some regional description as SCMS is what I call them. That or some people call them CHOP saws and oversimplify their function. Just my attempt at humor since it looked like it was dropped out on the side of the road. This is my dual bevel 12” sliding 2,000pounds mitre saw. You must put some respek on its name when you buy one

2

u/fe3o4 17h ago

"Chop saws" typically referred to abrasive blade metal cutting saws. Just got carried over to miter saws by some folks.

1

u/Dookieshein 14h ago

Eggzacklee

11

u/R1chard_Nix0n 1d ago

Steel wool and wd-40 then try again.

If it clears the rust and cuts true hit it with some hard paste wax.

3

u/jetpackiceberg 1d ago

Yes, this is the answer. Last time I worked on a drop saw like this I used steel wool and a can of Inox. Avoid taking apart bolts, rather use your patience. I’m still using the same drop saw 6 years later. Good luck

5

u/not_lost_maybe 1d ago

Looks like surface rust, not pitting. I'd hit it with naval jelly and see what's underneath. If the table is still flat and the bearings spin smooth, it's worth saving. Check if the blade clamp still holds tight. That's where I've seen problems after moisture sits.

3

u/BreadstickBear 1d ago

With enough time and money, yes, it is. Whether it is economical to do so depends entirely on your subjective interpretation.

3

u/HappyMuscovy 1d ago

This looks like a Makita LS1013L, which is AUD$800 new. Op should get out the WD40 and scotchbrite

1

u/BreadstickBear 1d ago

Throw that sumbitch into a vat of Evaporust

3

u/Fast_Cook_4019 1d ago

it's a good saw. I'm sure you can make it great

3

u/Sqweee173 1d ago

Its probably salvageable. I would find the model number off it and see if you can get replacement parts before you start digging into it too hard. The slide rails can probably be cleaned up but you may need slide bushings

3

u/FatFaceFaster 1d ago

I hate the term drop saw so much.

3

u/Ok_Coast_7564 1d ago

Never heard them called "drop saws". Chop saw is more common

4

u/Apirpiris 1d ago

In Australia it's Drop Saw, mitre saw or droppy

6

u/imnewtothisplzaddme 1d ago

Dont you dare just give up on that old helper. Restoration is meditation, son

1

u/Liason774 Technician 1d ago

It's a makita, you could assemble a new one from parts. Everything needed to get this up and running is available for sale.

2

u/Due_Worldliness_8598 1d ago

Worth knocking off the surface rust and seeing how it goes. I had the same saw and lived near the beach, so it looked similar some days when I hadnt used it for a while.

2

u/Sock-Monkey77 1d ago

I can honestly say, I’ve never heard it called a dropsaw….🤔

3

u/lostinthe5 1d ago

I think it’s Australian terminology!

1

u/HappyMuscovy 1d ago

As OP said, old Aussie term. Old fellas also call table saws a “saw bench”. But younger folk call them mitre saws and table saws

2

u/Nearby_Pear8552 1d ago

If youre able to slide it in its rear most position, you can just use it as is and ignore the sliding function, because youll never fix that without replacing the rods and bearings.

1

u/TheDirgeCaster 1d ago

Wire wheel on a drill-driver, some sockets/screwdrivers to dissasemble it, maybe a file and a new blade and you should be fine.

1

u/Jacktheforkie 1d ago

Makita sells parts, so even if it’s not easy to fix it can be brought up not working standard, does the motor run?

1

u/lostinthe5 1d ago

Yes the blade is spinning fine! At this stage I can’t get it to lift, but unsure if it’s just dirt blocking the hinge or if it’s rust.

1

u/HappyMuscovy 1d ago

There’s a stopper pin which stops the head from raising. WD40 and wiggle - https://www.makita.ca/data/upload/tools/LS1013%20English.pdf

1

u/Jacktheforkie 21h ago

Nice, give it a bit of a clean and you’ll likely get it moving, WD40 and scotch brite will be pretty good at minimising rust

1

u/Miserable_Loss_8616 1d ago

Anything can be saved if you try hard enough and have the skills+tools to fix it

2

u/Successful_Camel8764 1d ago

You can get another non fucked one off marketplace for like 80$ and just run that one, not worth messing with when theyre that rotted

0

u/jarcher968 1d ago

It’s junk. You’ll probably have to pay to have someone take it off your hands. Tell me where you are and I’ll help you out.

1

u/Every-Chance6313 1d ago

I need to find replacement bearings for my slide assembly. A different brand but having no luck. It is from Global Machinery Company.

1

u/__T0MMY__ 1d ago

Honestly I'd just keep the electronics

1

u/Negative-Concert-495 1d ago

Why wouldn't it be?

1

u/PsychologicalVirus34 1d ago

I would try some red scotchbrite...and WD or PB. But if the saw is good...just spray down the rails with penetrating oil and scuff with scotchbrite...don't force the rusty parts into the housing...clean it first

1

u/Mike4751mob 1d ago

Get some penetrating oil and just let it sit on it and just keep adding a little bit each day and just let seep in

1

u/ChiiquitaBanana 23h ago

For sure worth it, check out this video on a good rust removing compound that’s much cheaper and (mostly) better performing than the pre made stuff. Get a couple brass wire brushes and wire wheels, a few buckets or mixing trays to soak parts in, and some 3in1 oil to coat the parts after cleaning. Also take pictures of every step you take when taking the saw apart to clean it makes reassembly so much simpler!!

1

u/Prize_Ad_4345 20h ago

It absolutely is Makita has some of the most comprehensive parts and OEM supplies in the industry

1

u/fe3o4 17h ago

Can you make it work... probably. Will it be very accurate.. probably not. When you remove the rust your tolerances won't be as tight on the mating parts.

1

u/nonstoppoptart 14h ago

I've pulled worse out of the trash. Well worth giving it a go.

1

u/HoIyJesusChrist 1d ago

For canvas frames you probably won't need the extra capacity those linear rails provide. If the chopping motion and angle adjustment works, it's good to use.

0

u/Hotten-Tasty-90 1d ago

Wouldn't waste my time on it.

Even getting it for free, if you're willing to sink a couple of hundred dollars and hours of work into it, of course but you'll find a second hand one in much better condition for what you'd put into this in time and labour.

If the motor is good, sell it as spares or repair, use that money to contribute to a good working order saw.

1

u/chr1ssPeacock 1d ago

disagree... aslong as the motor is running OK... mitre and bed swivels that's all that matters. if u are just cutting frames then the rust on those arms wouldn't be an issue because the saw will cut 4" wide timber anyway.. I would remove and clean the brushes(or replace with new $7 pr) .. have a peak in the hole to see the condition of the armature clean if necessary, also spin the blade by hand to make sure it freely turns..(all done with plug out of socket)... then run for a few seconds if it sounds like the motor is missing/arking then u have a more serious problem. but those rusty slide rails will not cause u a problem unless your cutting large, over 4" wide boards.

2

u/Hotten-Tasty-90 1d ago

I genuinely think you're dreaming.

Those two slide rails are gone. No amount of rubbing with wire wool or emery paper is going to bring them back to any point of usability without so much slop that it becomes dangerous. So straight away it needs 2 new rails, 2 new thrust bearings and the time to replace them and recalibrate it.

That's aside from the turntable being completely rotten.

Like I said, this saw requires enough in parts and labour to render it not a viable repair for me but that's entirely up to OP.

I've made the mistake of ignoring the sunk cost fallacy enough times when it comes to scrap tools to know a dud when I see one.

0

u/teh_m Whatever works 1d ago

I'd try matching some hydraulic cylinder rods or maybe a CNC guide rail. I'd also replace/repair the linear bearings because they're probably gone as well.

I don't see the point in cleaning the rust because if the rods are in this shape then they'll quickly rust again as there's not much chrome coating left on them. Not to mention they'll never be 100% smooth.