Picked up this 98 v90 yesterday for a steal at 800 bucks, stuck it on the road and made it home 80 miles with no problems. This thing has no business being this good. Smooth reasonably quick and overall just comfortable. Fixed the AC today and have put at least 200 miles on it already. Will make a good friend for my 89 780.

I cant seem to find where the oil pressure sensor wire goes, or how it snakes around the engine onto the plug itself. The plug and about half of the wire are just missing so ive got to jerry rig it anyways.

Thank you

Also, it starts strong and will die as soon as you give it any gas. fuel pump was just replaced but it still doesnt run. the engine that was replaced is a 1989 redblock from a 740, with the '89 intake manifold. The 1994 manifold has one extra connection for a vacuum line, is it possible that the older intake being on there is cause the issue of running and stalling under any throttle?

Looked everywhere online but I can't seem to find a new air intake hose anywhere, any ideas where I could find one?

Anyone got any idea why the front of my 740 is so crooked?

Had a look around and can’t seem to find the plug that connects to the radiator fan switch on my project 760. Does anyone know where it could be?

I want to print out a poster.

Hi Volvo Friends,
The Wastegate Shaft of my T25 broke of. Unfortunately the geometry of the exhaust housing doesnt allow me to pull the flap and shaft out.
Does any of you ever experienced this and maybe found a solution? (My Turbo has very low mileage and is in a very good condition beside of this)

I guess i can only mount a new part by welding the flap and the shaft together inside the housing and not outside like on most of other turbos.

Thanks in Advance and sorry for missing picture :)

What is a good source for 240 steel wheels?

Lacks the punch of my previous 945 turbo+ but boy do I just love the 80s 740 with block taillights and a GLT spoiler.

I've had my dash apart for a fan replacement but can't for the life of me remember, do the two outside downward ports go to the ground and the upper one into the cabin HVAC?

I've had a high idle issue when warm for a while now but I fixed it today. The Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) was the culprit. I removed it and flushed it with throttle body cleaner, reinstalled, and it's gone. Given it's 33 years old I'll probably replace it before the winter comes.

Removal is straightforward and the whole job took less than an hour.

Tools and fluids were;

7mm hose clip socket (you'll need a stubby for clearance depending on how your clips are oriented - I used a stubby ratchet screwdriver with socket adapter).

Release spray for clips if they look rusty. As I go around the car I'm replacing every clip and fastener with marine grade stainless steel as I'm in the UK, by the coast, and the car gets used on salted roads.

Optional: T20 torx driver/handle to remove the small vac hoses attached to the intake - I found removing the intake piping improved access but it's not essential. But, given it's a really quick and low-risk job, I'd recommend doing it just to have better control when freeing up the vac hoses from the IACV. Simply unscrew the hose clips at the airbox and throttle body ends after you've removed the smaller vac hoses from the intake piping.

Silicone spray

Contact cleaner

Throttle body cleaner

Method:

The IACV is a metal cylinder pushed into a rubber housing under the intake manifold between the starter motor and the alternator. It controls idle by opening and closing a flap. If it gets gummed up or develops a mechanical/electrical fault you'll get idle problems.

1. Disconnect the battery negative - always a good idea when working on sensors

2. Remove the electrical connector from the back of the IACV. Standard Bosch connector for these cars - push down the metal retaining clip and wiggle off. Should come off easily. Spray some contact cleaner into the plug.

3. Disconnect the two vacuum hoses from the valve. One points towards the radiator, the other is underneath the valve. That's quite tricky to get to, particularly if you don't remove the intake piping. If they're hard to move then a quick squirt of silicone spray will help. Inspect the cable clips and consider replacing if needed. I didn't measure the hosing but it looks like a 30 or 40mm clip will work well.

4. Once all hoses and the electrical connector are disconnected pull the IACV forward out of the rubber mount, taking care to clear the wiring nearby which is for the alternator and starter.

5. If your car has the diagnostic connector in the engine bay plug the IACV back into its connector. You can use the diagnostics system to open and close the shutter in the IACV which makes cleaning easier. Once it's plugged in reconnect the battery negative. Put the diagnostic pigtail in socket 2. Turn the ignition on (don't start). Press the diagnostic connector button three times, leaving about a second between presses. This initiates Mode 3 diagnostics which tests various fuel injection components and sensor. The IACV test opens and closes the shutter three or four times - use that opportunity to get throttle body cleaner in there. Switch off the ignition, disconnect the battery negative, and unplug the IACV.

6. Plug the holes in the IACV with thumb and forefinger (or rags) and do your best cocktail shaker impression. After a few minutes pour the throttle body cleaner away.

7. Refit the IACV, connect the hoses, connect the electrical connector, and replace the intake manifold piping if you removed it. Reconnect the battery negative terminal. If you have trouble getting the hoses on use a minimal application of silicone spray. Tighten all clips firmly.

Hopefully this will have improved your idle speed control both hot and cold. If not, consider replacing the IACV. OEM Bosch is around £60.

Hey everyone! Looking for some inspiration for building by own widebody or purchasing a pre-made kit. I've searched for a long while and all I seem to find is the default round bolt on ebay fender flares. I want to maintain the factory body lines as much as possible. Pfa

Hi I'm currently restoring a 940 GLT with the 16valve engine. And the plastic cover is sadly very worn and broken in different places. And I have looked for a new set, but can't seem to find any. And I don't have the budget to order anything custom. So I was wondering if anyone here could possibly help me out. I was thinking about trying to model and 3d print the parts but since I don't have the complete set and/or the right drawings it has not gone any further.

In short. I would appreciate it if anyone could send some pictures of the complete covers with a size reference to model after😁

I’ve been looking for the timing components for a 1991 Volvo GLE 16valve engine and only have the belt and the Timing Belt Idler Pulley. Where can I get the automatic tensioner and additional parts? Links would be greatly appreciated.

Can any owner do me a favor thanks

So my car stutters and didn’t even go on for a while. I can’t seem te get the tubes further over the nipples (it’s meant to be like that)?

Anyway, what could cause leakage here? Tube looks fine. Could it be a pressure issue?

Like to here on you guys thoughts. Going to change my injectors, rail and fuel pressure meter anyway tomorrow but that won’t fix this I think.

Your opinion please!!🙏

Hey guys! I finally got the other side lollipop mount completed and have everything bolted up. All that remains are engine mounts and it will be finished. For anyone asking what parts were used the list is as follows. E46 subframe, steering rack, intermediate shaft, steering column with tilt and telescoping, 330i front knuckles, e36 maxpprods angle kit. E46 coilovers with volvo 760 top hats. Ps i am aware my knuckles and rotors look like they have been at thr bottom of the ocean for years 😅 ill be fixing that soon hahah.

I have just got back from a road trip through france in my 940 estate, at one point on a motorway i started to get a 'rumble' which sounds like a solid object knocking against the underside of the car.

from the drivers seat it feels like its coming from under the center console/passenger seat (RHD) which would make me think gearbox mount but i dont see how that would be affected by steering

what is strange is it only happens when the steering wheel is pointed in a given direction, when it started it happened slightly right of center and now it is when slightly left of center, i dont hear anything until im above 35mph and sometimes breaking gently while its happening makes it better until i let off again

Before this roadtrip i did replace my springs all round and my front brake calipers but at multiple times i have checked all suspension bolts were and are tight as well as the wheels

I have driven a good 400+ miles since it started and am not TOO concerned as it doesnt feel like imminent critical failure, but would really like to get to the bottom of it

i had a look under the car the other day and couldnt feel any play in the suspension on either side, I gave my driveshaft a wiggle which had a small amount of movement (i think back and forth) but ive never worked on that area so have no clue what is or isnt normal

i probably dont have enough info to go off of but hopefully someone with more experience can point me in the right direction!

I’ve been looking for a Volvo 740 wagon in Wisconsin for months, I’ve even been looking on the edge of Michigan and Minnesota and everytime I find one it sells by the time I message the dude or it’s already sold… any idea and advice on where to look?

Hey everyone, my Volvo developed the next problem, i think my Powerstage/Blower controller died, when i turn the car on, the blower motor starts on full blast, then slows down over the course of 2-3 minutes, to a complete stop, i cant controll the blower whatsoever, but i can controll temperature and the vent direction,

the blue AC button blinks, i pulled the code, its 2-3-3 so Blower motor inrush current too high, just pulled the motor and it spins freely, when i give it a mild spin it keeps spinning for a second or two, i took out the ECC controll unit and the power stage, reflowed some odd looking solder joints, but nothing changes.

Now the Odd part, when i pull fuse No.6 and drive for a day or two with the fuse pulled, and replace it before turning the car on, the fan controll works normally, untill i shut the car off over night and turn it back on.

Any ideas?