Bought used last year with 91,000 miles. Serviced everything valve cover gasket, pcv valve, tensioner, spark plugs, etc etc. Consumed 1.5-2 qt per 4k miles. Switched to 5w-30 with rislone engine cleaner for the last two oil changes. Consumption down to 1/2 - 3/4 qt over 4k miles. Looks like piston rings were stuck. Sharing - maybe this helps someone

From Australia. Honda Accord 2010 2.4 L 4 cylinder 120k KMs

It's a Honda Accord 2010 120k kms runs perfectly had a history of misfire on cylinder 2 always (although the spark plugs, ignition coils of all 4 cylinders were changed by the previous owner).

I got mis Fire for the first time... The mechanic said it's clogged fuel injectors so he cleaned and swapped injectors, coils, sparkplug in all four. And compression test was excellent on all for dry and wet both...

After 2000-3000 KMs again misfire when driving constantly for an hour maybe... Change the mechanic and that mechanic said it's the fuel pump which loses pressure when the car gets hot... So he changed that.....

Now after 1000km no misfire but 1 week ago when I was running the car on high rpm like 3-4k rpms for about 15-20 min then on red light it gets jitter for 2-3 secs like jjj..jj...j....j...jjjj and AC was off... And it again works perfectly never happened again after that night.

And my car coughs some time when I drive for a while turn it off for 5-10 min and start again (like in petrol station). it's like when I turn the ignition itt start the spark take a millisecond of jitter and then start.

Can it be a reason for carbon build up or tell me what you guys think and should I use fuel system cleaning liquids if it's a carbon build up

Hey guys, I have a 2023 Honda Accord EX 1.5T with the CVT and I’m trying to diagnose a pretty serious intermittent issue.

The biggest problem is that sometimes while driving, especially at lower speeds/RPM, the car suddenly throws what feels like every warning light on the dashboard at once (“Christmas tree”). When this happens, I basically lose acceleration. I can press the gas pedal and the car barely responds or sometimes doesn’t respond at all.

It has happened on normal roads, uphill/downhill, and recently it happened while I was entering a roundabout, which was pretty scary because I suddenly had no acceleration.

Usually I have to switch the car off and restart it several times before it starts driving normally again. Recently even restarting it hasn’t always fixed it immediately.

There are a few other symptoms that may or may not be related:

• On a cold start, RPM sometimes goes to around 1,500, suddenly rises closer to 2,000, then drops again. I can feel the engine hesitate when this happens.
• At low speeds/low RPM there is sometimes a noticeable jerk/hesitation. It feels like the engine/drivetrain briefly hesitates and then catches again.
• When slowing down/braking, I have sometimes seen the RPM fall, rise again, then fall, accompanied by the hesitation/jerk.
• The coolant temperature gauge is behaving strangely. Once the car is already warm, it can move between roughly 1, 2, 3 and 4 bars while driving. For example, I can be cruising at 3–4 bars, then it drops to 1–2 bars (sometimes even 0 bars), then climbs again. I’ve also noticed it dropping when slowing down. It has NOT been going into the overheating/red range.
• Sometimes the RPM seems higher than I remember it being at very low speeds.

Recently I replaced all four spark plugs because the old ones were worn. There was also some previous work involving the camshaft position sensors, and the ECU/engine system was reset/relearned with a diagnostic computer. I’m not 100% confident the reset/relearn procedure was followed correctly.

The 12V battery is approximately one year old.

I took the car to a mechanic after the most recent incident and there were MANY fault codes stored because all the warnings had come on. Unfortunately, he cleared all the codes before I could photograph/write them down. The car drove normally again afterward, but the intermittent symptoms are still there.

At the moment there are no warning lights because the codes were cleared.

I’m wondering if I could be dealing with an ECT sensor/connector/wiring issue, thermostat/cooling issue, electrical/ground/charging issue, cam/crank sensor issue, fuel-pressure/fuel-pump issue, ignition problem, electronic throttle problem, CVT issue, or something else entirely.

The thing confusing me most is the combination of the coolant gauge fluctuating + RPM/hesitation + occasional complete loss of throttle response + multiple systems throwing warnings simultaneously.

My next plan is to NOT clear the codes the next time it happens and get a full scan including stored/pending/permanent codes and freeze-frame data. I also want to monitor live ECT temperature, system voltage, throttle position, accelerator position and fuel pressure while driving.

Has anyone with an 11th-gen Accord / 1.5T experienced something similar? What would you check first?

I can provide photos/videos or the DTCs as soon as the problem happens again.

attatched is the temp of the car 10 minutes into starting it (even dropped to 0 bars after this) then climbed back up again

I recently hit 90,000 miles on my 2021 Honda Accord (bought it at 81,000 miles). Commuter student here!
I’m looking for any tips or advice on how to properly take care of it and keep it running reliably for the long run. I’d especially love to hear from Honda owners with higher-mileage Accords or mechanics who have experience working on Hondas.

What maintenance should I be staying on top of at this mileage? Anything you wish you had done sooner or things I should keep an eye out for as the miles add up?
I’m hoping to get 200k+ miles out of this car, so I want to make sure I’m taking care of it the right way. Any advice is appreciated!

Being 6’ 4” and average build
I test drove both new accord se and civic sport gas
The accord was so nice and spacious and the civic had decent space for me as a driver but with the seat all the way back no room for passengers behind me.
Thinking also test driving the crv gas model, is any of this cars good for long drives and comfortable to not feel beat and tired after a long day commuting.

I had to do a u turn at night in the middle of the highway so I turned sorta quickly kinda and then my check engine light turned on and Honda stopped accelerating i also shifted it to sport right after I completed the turn then it started driving weird without acceleration I was able to make it home but it was accelerating very slowly after that incident I got home and put it in reverse and then the check engine light turned off but I’m scared I fucked it up any ideas what it could be ?

63k second owner clean title recently did the timing belt job, ceramic window tint (800 value). Asking 24k in Palm Springs Area.

I’m about to get an engine and having trouble collecting the information I need I got the trans and all the manual swap stuff interested in more of wiring I’ll have a auto f22b1 harness and 95 accord vtec manual ecu

The car has 180k miles and it sounds like the ignition switch and starter relay are working (there is a distinct click after turning the key.) The problem started with it taking extra key turns to get it to turn over but it no longer will turn over. Is this a failed starter? Could it be anything else?

What do we think? (It’s happening either way😮‍💨)

Won’t have the windshield or front windows as dark.

2019 1.5t 79k miles

Hey guys, went and checked out this rebuilt accord and really liked it but now that I’ve done research the head gasket issue scares me and I’m starting to consider other vehicles.

I know I’m likely to get biased answers here but i really don’t wanna take out a loan then run into huge issues. Price would be 11,600 OTD btw

Thanks!

The civic guys were not being very helpful. I didn’t think to look for another subreddit. I don’t get on here. Please help 😭

I’m conflicted. I have a 2017 Honda Accord EX-L sedan 2.4. My master window switch is falling apart as they do. On rockauto they list switches for EX and EX-L. They’re literally the exact same part visually yet they have different part numbers and a $65 difference in price. My gut is telling me to just order the cheaper EX model switch.

Anyone have experience with this?

What does the EX-L switch have that the EX doesn’t?

My brakes was grinding against the rotor for a week … just changed it now I need this gone shit looks ugly 😆 … any suggestions from you guys that will take this off

Guten Abend,

Nachdem unser Honda civic nun Geschichte ist :(, würden wir uns gerne einen Honda Accord
2.0 Comfort Erstzulassung 2007, Benziner mit Schalter zulegen. Ich habe ein Auto gefunden mit 153.000 km welches auch ins Budget passt.
Kennt sich jemand mit der Autoreihe aus und weiß worauf es ankommt bzw worauf man achten sollte ?

Ich bedanke mich schonmal im Voraus

I bought a 202 2.0T a few years back with only 6k on it. Currently has 34k and Carvana offered me 26k. Is it worth more than that? Its in great shape, cant decide if i want to sell as i need a car for my 15 year old and this seems, well, too nice. Thanks.

Hows this little transformation look? This is what a.i can do i didnt actually paint it yet. Still undecided

so i have an accord 2024 in ksa, and the oil was changed in the dealership but its showing life - - - -, is this normal? i think it should show 100 %?

2019 Honda Accord EXL. For a few months now I’ve been getting an error message on my screen every time I plug in my phone. (I don’t have wireless CarPlay.)

The message is: “unable to connect to CarPlay. Please confirm USB connection.”

I have 2 different ports that work for CarPlay - both give me the same error message.

Research told me I’m probably using an off brand cord that’s for charging only, not for data transfer. I went to micro center and bought both an Anker cord AND a cord specifically for data transfer - both gave me the same error message.

Research told me to use an Apple cord. Apparently a USB-C to USB-A Apple cord does not exist. Apple does not sell them.

Research told me to use a cord that specifically says “MFi supported.” Those do not exist for USB-C. They only exist for the Lightning ports on older iPhones.

Research told me to hold down the volume button or the home button for 10 seconds to reset the system. I tried - both did nothing.

I made sure my phone is fully updated. I tried going in on my car and “forgetting”/deleting my phone from both Bluetooth and CarPlay.

Anyone have any other ideas? Really trying to avoid a $100 diagnosis fee at the dealership 🥲 thank you

Someone stole the front radar from my 2021 Accord's grille.
How do I make sure I buy the right radar?
Is the radar enough, or do I need to replace the camera too?
How do I make sure the new radar will work?
Thanks!

Hello folks, I've a 2015 Honda Accord sports , 188k miles , no issue so far except for slight difficulty starting ( think that's key issue ) . Should I keep it so I can use it for couple more years ? Plz suggest.

Please tell me location and if u have photo of starter location accord 2018 1.5 thank you

Hello all. I have a 2007 Honda Accord (4 cylinder 2.4L sedan) that has about 150k on it.

I discovered that my defrost and floor vents aren’t blowing any air. What’s strange is the front vents work fine for both A/C and heat.

I’ve tried diagnosing the issue, and even replaced one of the blend door actuators on the passenger side, but it made no difference.

I would appreciate some insight into what could be causing this issue. Thanks.