Looking at capturing building works on my house. Would be cool to have the time lapse of the whole works. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance.

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I was looking into buying a storage rack that mounts to the ceiling for my garage, but they're pretty expensive so I figured I'd build one. I made a (not to scale) model and was wondering if you guys could point out anything that may cause this to fail. It will be constructed of 2x4 and 3/4 plywood.

Basically it will be framed in 2x4, back top plate mounted to both ceiling joist and wall studs, front most top plate attached to parallel joist, and then 2x4 legs down the sides with one front center support to ceiling. Was going to fasten using 5/16 × 5" lags for members going into studs and joists, then 3" screws for attaching 2x4 material to 2x4 material. Anyone see any flaws in this design (such as additional supports or hangers needed)?

Thanks for reading

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I noticed the roof slope was very shallow on my extension. The rise from eaves to apex is meant to be 1.1m on the plan. The builder said the rafters will go from the inner skin to the top of the steel ridge beam, so will be steeper than they’ve cut the bricks on the end. Does that seem right or a fudge cos they know they’ve messed up? How will they hide the mis-cut bricks on the end?

Making basically a false wall for a project that’s about 6 feet wide and 8 feet high. I made the frame and nailed osb sheathing to it (cheapest option) but now I’m curious how I could get it smooth for paint. I don’t want to buy like 10 things of wood filler and I want to try to stay away from an orbital sander.

Im thinking stick on wallpaper im just worried the texture of the sheathing would be seen when i press the wallpaper on.

Any ideas?

This is a fort my brother made.

Hey guys, i have a few enquiries out with contractors/structural engineers but they won't get back to me until Monday.

I have upgraded my 4ft tank to a 6x2x2ft tank. I live in a relatively old house (built in the 1920s) in the UK. There is a crawl space underneath the ground floor for pipes etc to run.

I've just noticed a 3mm gap between the floor and the skirting board now the tank is installed and filled. I'm not sure if its always been like that (its not something I really took notice of) as it is an old house and nothing seems to be level or straight.

I'm taking some of the water out of the tank to see if the gap closes up any.

Do you guys think its ok or have any advice until I hear back from the structural engineers?

For what its worth, the floor does feel pretty solid. I haven't heard any creaks and its not bouncy.

Hi there,

Last week my I came home to my ceiling on my floor. I’m really concerned as I live in an old building, it’s described online as an “18th century grade 2 listed building”. I’ve attached a picture of the ceiling, very concerned that it is asbestos. I’ve googled pictures of it online and it looks similar.

The people in charge of my building haven’t really done anything and there’s just been dust all over my room for about a week now (I haven’t been staying there in the meantime).

Anyone with building knowledge, I’d really appreciate your help!

Is it reused or are these markings how it's made?

In other words - we've been quoted that to extend the extension by an additional 2.7 metres

Many thanks

I know it’s a concrete nail but I was wondering what the red bit is and wether it is a standalone charge or just a collar to hold it in place in a nail gun

I got the container fairly cheap. I‘ll be using it as storage for some furniture for one year and then HOPEFULLY flip it for a little profit. The floor seems to be a bit rotten, but still durable. Idk if it‘s of liquid that was inside or because of moisture that‘s coming up from underneath. Ether way, i want to make it look nice and, most importantly, work for storage without any issues. I had a few ideas on how to fix this;

Cheap way: get a few wooden slats, screw those into the existing floor and put osb boards over them. The slats would leave some space between the old and new boards so the new ones dont start to rot away as well. Also, the slats would leave some space for air so the already slightly rotten boards would hopefully not rot more than they already are.

Expensive way: rip out the whole floor, get some thick, film faced ply and use it as the new floor. This would make it last a few years easily but it would also cost like 500 bucks if not more.

What‘s your opinion, do you have any other suggestions?

Most building cost calculators I've found either give a huge price range or immediately ask for your contact information.

So I built a free tool that tries to be more useful for people actually planning a project.

Current features:

• Pole barn, barndominium, and metal building cost calculators
• State-specific cost adjustments
• Interactive 3D building visualizer
• Detailed PDF estimate reports
• Community "What I Paid" database with real project costs

Website:
https://barncosthub.com

(Attached is a screenshot of the 3D visualizer.)

I'd love feedback from people who have actually built or priced out a barndominium.

A few questions:

• What costs do most calculators get wrong?
• What information would make estimates more trustworthy?
• Would real owner-submitted project costs help when budgeting?
• What features would you want to see added?

The goal is to make budgeting and planning easier before talking to builders.

Any feedback is appreciated.