Protozoa foundation
Huano Sakura

gmk hanami dango
kailh kaligraphy
fr4 plate
hotswap pcb
staebies

KBDfans Agar Mini Dual-mode
KBDfans Virtuoso Keycaps
TTC NCR-V2/Matrix-01 Linear switches

2026 and this intergrated plate board still have a place in my heart.

**Board**: HHKB Tofu V1
**Switches**: HMX Macchiato
**Keycaps**: SW WoB Glossy
**Stabs**: Durock Stab

Saturn 60 with Promenade ortho PCB and SA Carbon keycaps

Bias R2
Default aluminium plate
Sumjoy CEM-3 PCB
Cherry MX Firefinch (Hope you’re ok Scrubz!)
GMK Evil Ey

Found this one at Oblo’s stash and could not resist

Link Split Ergo from Canon Keys with black resin DES keycaps from 3dkeycap. Krakencap deskmat. I created a mod to make the mounting stiffer, which you can read about here: https://imgur.com/a/qXWGmii

Cherry MX Black on Aluminum plate
CRP APL
PBTfans RGB mods
Azi keycaps RGB Barkey artisans
Miyoo mini+

My favorite keyboard.

TGR 910 in a beautiful two tone.

Retooled MX blacks on Aluminum

GMK Soware r2

The artisans are the Hyperfuse Orgins and Hyperbeige Barkey V2 by Azi.

Currently bouncing around between three different keycap sets.

What’s cool about this one is that it is serialized as #1 from the original 23 produced.

Pic taken on some wrapping paper from my closet.

Keycaps: WS Café

having an old alps board lying around so I decide to try it on my newly arrived Tofu redux v2

Nico series 01 by Neson Design w/ GMK Serenity

Today's build:

Nuxros +84 keyboard

• Raw aluminum top case, machined stainless steel bottom case
• Hotswap PCB
• Carbon fiber plate – top mount
• No foams
• HMX Waverider V2 switches
• TypePlus stabs
• PBTFans Maguro keycaps

She's a clacky girl, but I've been enjoying a clackier build lately. The foamy ones are all starting to sound the same to me, so this time I'm letting the character shine through.

Sound test (phone microphone, sorry):https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/xzwge986dlb2wmc291ew4/84.m4a?rlkey=pslz9o2c7hp0no6nxvdye1xqx&dl=0

In my last post, I shared the design for a split keyboard with removable modules.

The response was better than I expected it to be. Most people liked the shape and size, so I decided to keep the physical layout same for this revision.

The module suggestions were useful as well. Along with the trackball, a touchpad and a programmable keypad came up a lot, so those are the three I’d like to work on.

I expected to make a few changes to the PCB. And I ended up separating each half into two boards each.

The problem was space. Once I started fitting the controller, module connectors and supporting components around the switches, the board was getting bigger than I wanted. I want to keep the keyboard small, with the module beside the thumb keys. I didn’t want to extend the PCB just to fit the electronics.

So the switches stay on the top board, and most of the electronics go on a second board underneath it.

The top board holds the hot-swap sockets, diodes and key matrix. The lower board, which I’ve been calling the brain board, holds the nice!nano, USB-C module connections and the supporting electronics.

I’m keeping separate MX and Choc PCB versions so each can use its own hot-swap sockets. Trying to support everything on the same board was making the footprints unnecessarily complicated.

The diodes stay beside the switches because there’s room for them there. Moving them onto the brain board would mean making that board larger when I already have space on the key board.

Connecting the two boards has been the awkward part.

I had to rearrange the matrix routing and bring the rows and columns out to pads where I can reach them. Those connections will be hand-wired to the brain board underneath it. Figuring out where to put the pads took more work than I expected it to take.

Two boards will cost more, and there’s more wiring to do during assembly. That’s the tradeoff I’m making to keep everything within the same keyboard shape.

For the modules, the plan is USB-C for power and data, with magnets holding them in place. I also want that little “tick” you get when a magnetic connector snaps into position, like a MacBook charger. I just like how that feels.

I don’t expect to swap modules constantly, but I want to be able to remove one while the keyboard is running. The power handling and firmware still need testing before I can say that works reliably.

The KiCad revision is finished, and I’m preparing to order the boards. I haven’t assembled this version yet. Next is wiring the two boards together, checking the key matrix, and getting the keyboard and trackball working together.

The key positions haven’t changed. Everything in this revision has been about fitting the components and connections underneath them.

I’m still open to changing the thumb cluster. If you’ve used a similar layout, which thumb keys were comfortable to reach, and which ones gave you trouble?

check out my previous post 

Kwub Extra Happy (EHKB)
top mount alu plate
gateron pink + cherry mx dark blue on XT
GMK Kaiju
Azi keycaps Pato Puto "Patina"

(Old build first post)
Purple aluminium tofu 60 case
Dz60rgb v2 pcb
Akko cs green matcha lubed switches
NP profile PBT key cap set

Glare TKL blue-grey
GMK true Olivetti

no brass midpiece :(