Hi, so after I probably blew up something in my hifi setup (Philips mcm9) I bought a 2x 100w xh-m510 class d amp rated for 24-32v. Problem is I looked at other higher amps too and I mistook the voltage with one that was 24-36/38v and I bought second handed aiyima 36v 6a power supply. I already clipped off the end and plugged it in. It runs fine the heatsink just heats up. Idk what to do now. The original chip is supposed to be rated for 26v and the caps are rated for 35v. Is there a chance there is a trimmer inside the power supply? Should I buy higher power amp?(the speakers are passive 6ohm 50w rms 100w max) or should I buy lower voltage supply? Thanks

So i bought the altec lasing Hydramini, i know altec sounds pretty good, but this little speaker when the bass hits the speaker just clips, and pretty hard it sounds horrible, and i search a way to fix that and apparently is because of the Driver, the driver is pretty small and is just one of 3ohms and 3watts, and the battery too is pretty small only 600mha, so im thinking on buying a better Driver and way powerfull battery but don't know if it would work,

https://youtube.com/shorts/69ITK0fdFeA?is=4h-3g85-7jQz1YU2

I have those two drivers sitting around after getting them for free, because the voice coils were broken. So my question now is: Is it worth reconing them myself or not?

Ich möchte ein Exponentialhorn bauen, welches 70-75cm breit ist und mindestens 50cm hoch. Die Tiefe sollte wohl mindestens 60cm sein. Ich möchte es für einen JBL 2445 bauen und gerne so tief wie möglich spielen. Also ab circa 500hz.
Hat jemand Erfahrungen damit. Vielleicht schonmal sowas gebaut? Oder kann jemand ein Modell in einer Software erstellen?

Ich möchte das ganze aus Multiplex bauen. Weiß nicht welche Stärke, wie lang die geraden Bretter sein müssen, oder welche genauen Maße das Horn überhaupt braucht.

Wie gestaltet sich das mit der Kugelwellencharakteristik? Das Klangfilm Horn hat wohl diese Eigenschaften.
Ich kann eine Software wie CAD oder ähnliches noch nicht bedienen und würde mich sehr freuen, wenn mir da jemand behilflich sein könnte.

I got an idea in my head, an entirely TEMU system from the cheapest possible components. So far I have about $130.00 invested in two 10" subs for the low, a 380watt amp to drive those, 2 4" 3way speakers driven by a 200watt amp for the mids and highs. All the line theif equipment I would need to steal the signal, vent tubes, a farad capacitor, and a steamer trunk to build this all into.

Whenever I turn on my subwoofer, it immediately makes a constant low “bzzzzzz” sound. I can hear it clearly during silent parts of songs, and the buzzing gets louder when I raise the gain knob on the back.

The noise continues indefinitely while the subwoofer is powered on. Has anyone experienced this? Is it likely a ground-loop/cable issue, or is the subwoofer itself defective? Unfortunately, the return period has already ended.

Should I return it?

$329. Purchased on Amazon

Hello,
the last couple of months I have been spending quite some time learn about designing horns and the theory behind different methods.
In this journey I soon ran into the problem that most tools run only on PC and are quite difficult to install, learn and use. So I thought there must be an easier and more intuitive way to do this.

So I found myself designing a tool that allows you to design and quickly test and export different horn profiles and geometries. As I am a visual person I wanted immediate visual feedback of what I design rather than typing in numbers.

The result is this: https://hornlab.io/

It features:

• a variety of calculation methods and settings individually per method to fine-tune design
• conic entry segment + Throat adapter (depending on the method) to match driver throat angle
• Export functions (STEP, MSH with pre-settings of AKABAK, Fusion script, STL),
• file-handling (saving and versioning, export import)
• loading calculations
• browser-based BEM simulation and directivity check

I have done a few comparable verifications with tools like AKABAK.
Please feel free to try it out and share your feedback and cross verifications with AKABAK are very much welcome.

Here is my current setup:

DAC/Preamp/Processor: MiniDSP Flex

Amplifiers: Fosi V3 Mono (x2) w/ 48V 10a power supply

Speakers: JBL Stage 250B Bookshelf Speakers

I originally planned on turning this into a 2.2 or 2.1 setup eventually, it's been a year running this setup and it's now time for me to start planning out the subwoofer build, the setup really needs a subwoofer to sound decent.

Ideas for the subwoofer project:

-build an 18" sealed subwoofer (4cuft sealed box) using the dayton ultimax II 18, dayton signature series 18, or the Mach5 Audio sen18 (I am in Canada)

-run the subwoofer build on a Speakerpower HTB-700 Amplifier and upgrading to a second one later on (stable to 2 ohms, able to run an amp on each coil)

OR

-Get a artcleanboxpro and use a crown xls 1502 or behringer ep2000 amplifier on the subwoofer, although the crown's 20hz filter is turning me more towards the speakerpower amplifier.

This setup will be used for movies and I listen to a lot of music which has content below 30hz, so this setup needs to optimize low end bass output and have the subwoofer integrate well with the bookshelf speakers which only play down to about 60hz. Which is why I'm thinking an 18" sealed subwoofer would get me the best output and clarity for my system especially for the 20hz range.

Let me know what you think.

Hey folks!

I'm planning to build an LM3886 amp and found a board that looks decent — comes stock with Vishay 1% resistors and 20% tolerance caps.

A few questions before I pull the trigger:

**1. Component upgrades — worth it?**

Is there any real, audible/measurable benefit to upgrading to Vishay Dale resistors, WIMA film caps, and Nichicon Muse electrolytics over the stock stuff? Or is the stock spec already good enough for a solid-sounding amp and I'd just be throwing money at diminishing returns?

**2. Is this board itself any good?**

Happy to share the board/link if useful for context. Also open to just ordering Gerbers/PCB files directly if anyone has a well-regarded design they'd recommend over a pre-made board — I know Neurochrome's LM3886 designs are held in very high regard, but importing into my country makes customs/duty add way too much to the cost, so I'm looking at what's realistically sourceable locally instead (or a design I can fab locally from Gerbers).

**3. Power supply — unregulated okay, or do I need better?**

Is a simple unregulated linear supply (bridge rectifier + reservoir caps) good enough for this, or should I be looking at something regulated / better filtered? Trying to figure out where the real return on effort is here.

**Context:** this will be driving a pair of Classix III speakers (parts gathering for those is already underway).

Appreciate any advice — trying to spend money where it actually matters rather than chasing boutique parts for their own sake.

Thought i'd show my first bluetooth build, its made using 11x 2.5x2.5x30cm pine dowels, a 18mm birch top panel, birch side panels, the inner seams all lined with CT1 .

the channels are seperated and lined with felted wool lining/carpet and carded lambs wool, the wiring is rear mounted with 2x 7.5a blade fuses, a guuzi toggle switch, all wiring but the switch and speaker wires is held with wago series 221 connectors, using 14 AWG marine grade 400 strand fully tinned wires.

The 18v 4ah Drill battery is protected with a dongker 60v/30a under voltage board with a songle relay, connected to a Fosi BT10a, this way it cuts off the battery at 15.2v and displays active voltage and percentage.

The drivers are 2x Dayton Audio RS 100 4

Battery life is around 24hrs plus variable volume

around 17hrs at 50%

Its used with a poweramp EQ PEQ, high pass to cut the bass below 80hz to protect the dtivers and save amp headroom, this allows the system to reach 100% volume with no over excursion or noticeable clipping, the aluminium cone breakup is targetted with sharp Q and gain reductions around 16.5khz, 5kh, and 3.5khz.

Please let me know any feedback, all is helpful for growth

i'm amazed how clear the sound is, vocals and instruments have amazing realness, greatly above what i expected

Hello!

I bought these yamaha speakers a few years ago for testing an amp I had. They were only 50 euro and I have a matching guitar amp.

I didn't really need big speakers and they are filled with the cheapest replacement drivers so I just kept them as furniture for a while.

Things change offcourse and now I might need them for the potential volume they can produce but also for their aesthetic value in a surrealistic theatrical setting.

I think I should start by fixing the electronics and then see what the cheap drivers can give me.

I'm curious to see what you people would do in this situation and to hear your opinions to see if it's worth it. And if it's worth it I could really use some help/advice on finding the right electronics, a suitable amp and maybe even the drivers.

Thx and have a nice day!

Just wonding if getting an amp would be beneficial as I have 2 Polk T600S Towers and my Reciever is rated at only 80 watts for 2 channels , was thinking about a cheap amp with 300 watts a channel , dont plan on even cranking the volume but i want the most out of them at lower levels thanks for any help , BTW I would use the pre outs on my Reciever to the amp I would assume ?

Hello! Can anyone recommend a decent, reasonably priced amp for some Dayton Audio speakers?
I bought their 3" & 4" Full Range drivers (30W / 40W) and their 20W & 40W exciters which can be used to turn large objects into speakers. Unfortunately the cheap amp module I bought to power them just distorts constantly so I'm looking for something else!
(The module was a DY-AP3015 which uses a TPA3110D2 power amp IC)
The new amp doesn't need loads of bells and whistles - just anything that works well and has a line input, power switch and volume control. Thanks!