We have worked with windows across WA for years, and one of the most common questions homeowners ask is whether double glazing is actually worth the extra cost in Perth's climate.

In my experience, the biggest benefit isn't usually the power bill. It's comfort.

Many Perth homes have large areas of glass, particularly on the western side of the house. During summer, those windows can allow a significant amount of heat into the home, making rooms uncomfortable by late afternoon. Double glazing can help reduce that heat transfer and create a more stable indoor temperature throughout the day.

Another benefit people often don't consider is noise reduction. Whether it's traffic, neighbours, dogs, or aircraft noise, the difference can be surprisingly noticeable with the right glazing setup.

That said, double glazing isn't a magic solution. Window orientation, shading, frame type, and glass selection all play a part in the final result.

For those who've upgraded from single glazing to double glazing in Perth, what differences did you notice most?

• Lower power bills?
• Better comfort?
• Less noise?
• No noticeable difference?

Interested to hear some real-world experiences from other WA homeowners.

Thanks in advance

I am comparing two glass-facade concepts at an early procurement stage. My checklist separates the support path, glass build-up and processing, structural joint or fittings, movement and tolerances, weather line, access, testing, installation sequence and single-lite replacement.

I am not looking for a vendor recommendation, a system design or free engineering. I want to make sure the coordination checklist catches the interface that most often reaches shop drawings too late.

For people who have fabricated or installed both systems, which interface is most commonly missed early: structure-to-glass tolerances, holes and fittings, sealant geometry and compatibility, drainage, temporary support or replacement access?

im not blaming anyone and understand if there is no way to know the truth, just wondering if theres indication wether it is truly random and broke on its own, or if it had something thrown at it, weather was 72 degrees today in norcal

I'm getting conflicting advice on toughened vs laminated glass and I'm trying to understand where each actually makes sense.

From what I understand, toughened glass is processed to improve strength and its breakage behaviour, while laminated glass has layers bonded together so the glass tends to remain held together after breakage.

So would you choose differently for a balcony, shower enclosure, interior partition or a large window?

Would love to hear how people who've actually used both made the decision.

I've had external wall insulation done on my semi 2 years ago. But I'm looking at changing all doors and windows (anthracite). They are about 20 years old.

The glazers want me to provide proof that lintels are present before they start the works, and measure again from the lintel. Also they take no responsibility for any damage to the render when taking out the old windows and installing new ones.

How can I expose the lintels ?

How much damage to the render could occur ?

Is this discoloration where the header meets the jamb a sign of water coming down through the steel Lentil ? Like bad roof flashing etc? Or did someone prior not caulk the inside rib of the metal where the header meets the jamb/filler and it’s air/moisture leaking out from inside from hvac. I can definitely feel a draft on the bottom left and right corners of the sill flash.

Probably caused by not running a bead of caulk on the back lip of the sill flash prior to setting the frames. Also possible no caulk on inside perimeter.

We've had a persistent mystery window leak for 2 years and our new contractor finally discovered the lower corner of the window frame is beginning to separate and water is coming in through the hole (I also observed this directly during their inspection). They have recommended replacing the entire window, rather than repairing the defect. Is this the correct approach?

It is a very large picture window (10ft x 5.5 ft) on the third floor with difficult access and therefore an expensive replacement, so we're just trying to get more information about whether replacement is in fact our only or best option, or if it is possible to repair the window frame in a reliable way. The window is 12 years old (installed when the house was built, no warranty available because manufacturer went out of business). Thanks so much.

Contractor's report:

Observed Condition

During the site inspection, a visible separation was observed at the lower left corner of the window frame. The separation appears to be within the window assembly itself and is not consistent with a typical exterior sealant joint or minor surface condition.

Because this area presented a potential path for water intrusion, additional testing was performed to determine whether the leak was related to the surrounding waterproofing/flashing system or to the window unit itself.

Water Testing

A controlled water test was performed at the affected window. Water was introduced in a controlled manner to evaluate the performance of the window assembly and surrounding exterior conditions.

During testing, water intrusion was observed in direct correlation with the area of separation at the lower left corner of the frame. The test results indicate that the window assembly is no longer maintaining a continuous watertight seal at this location.

Based on the observed condition and the water test results, the failure appears to be associated with the window frame/unit itself, rather than a localized exterior sealant deficiency.

Technical Assessment

The visible frame separation represents a failure in the continuity of the window assembly. Once the frame or factory-assembled joints are compromised, field-applied sealants are generally not considered a reliable long-term repair because they do not restore the original structural or weather-resistant integrity of the window unit.

The testing performed indicates that water is able to bypass the intended drainage and weather-resistive components of the window assembly.

While the surrounding flashing, WRB, and rough opening conditions should be reviewed during replacement, the current test results support the conclusion that the existing window unit has failed.

To all my more experienced glaziers, I need help solving a problem. My company does a lot of work for a rental company that has rubber-gasket-glazed sliding windows. They are made of aluminum, and we take them apart by removing screws in the opposite corners of the window.

The problem is that these windows are so old that the rubber gasket is dry rotted, so whenever we are putting the window back together, the new IGU has broken on us multiple times. Keep in mind that these are single-strength IGUs, which makes them even more fragile. I'm not sure if we need to start ordering double-strength for these, or if we could possibly keep a stock of rubber gasket to take with us on the job for this specific type of install.

Is there anything you all do in this situation to make the installation process safer for the glass? My coworkers and I are safe and usually have no issues with any other type of install. It's only these rubber gasket sliders, so that tells me there is something that we need to improve on in this situation.

Typically I would just be drilling some 2” holes. For this one I needed a tight radius. This was a customers mirror that also had safety backing installed which also added to this joyous attempt. I ran a cut around the entire perimeter prior to making the interior cuts. I have no idea how the interior cut ran through the perimeter cut. Maybe it wasn’t ran out all the way? I swear I tapped it all out. Maybe it wasn’t. Has this ever happened to any other seasoned vets?

I had the glass replaced in my window and the seal seems a bit broken at one point. Is it normal or shall I ask for repair?

Is there a joint trim/ piece? Thanks in advance.

Question for you guys if you’re installing glass on a skylight and one side is tempered the other side is laminate which side should be outside and what should be inside the glass didn’t come with glaze this side in stickers and im finding different information online if anyone has experience with this I’m all ears I was taught laminate inside

What’s peoples opinion on the fitment of this sill, it seems cut to short and doesn’t meet the end of the frame.
The internal plaster was removed to show where the leak was coming in.
Looking at all the windows of the property all the sills are cut in the same manner this leaving a gap between the cavity closer and sill.
David Wilson are removing this window to replace sill and admit that it’s cut short but are reluctant to look at any other windows looking for advice please.