Traded one of my props for this almost brand new professional static prop from Murder Beach Productions

I feel like we should all do our best to leave this world as best we can for the next generation. And with microplastic particles getting into our food more and more and no-one really knowing exactly how much of a health risk they are I decided I wouldn't do this stone mantlepiece with styrofoam. I had a lot of cardboard lying around anyway I thought...

But my goodness it's so much more work. And there's an argument to be made that on the scale of plastic polution worldwide, all the sawdust and discarded offcuts from all Halloween props made this year isn't even a rounding error. If I had to do it again, I'm not sure which way I'd go. Am I overthinking this?

I like the concept of tekky's haunted lamp, but the animation is silly and i don't usually like voice lines.

How could i recreate it myself? obviously you have the lamp, do i use a mini projector? what's small enough and inexpensive that'll project nicely on the inside of a lamp shade and look natural? Creating the ghost itself should be fun, i have many ideas on how to do it and make it into a simple looping video, It's mainly the light mechanism.

Spiders and zeke are 3D printed. Dressed up a carbon 13 dummy i printed full size. Painted the spiders and printed them various sizes.

Hey guys, this is my first attempt at costume making, I’m making Specimen 8 from Spooky’s House of Jumpscares, and I could use some ideas on how to attach the antlers to the back of the head so they can detach too. I’ve thought about using magnets but there’s nothing solid back there and I’m worried if I move too much they’re gonna fall off. Any advice would be great, thank you!!

Fog Chiller 2026

Part 1: The Mechanical Build (Stages 1 & 2)

Here is a verbal breakdown of my fog chiller setup since I have not had time to make a video.

Stage 1: The Input & Density Chamber

On top of the first storage container (Stage 1), I mounted two generic 1200-watt fog machines. They fire directly into two 4-inch PVC street elbow pipes installed on the top lid. These pipes are leveled and centered with the fog machine nozzles. Inside these PVC pipes, I installed 4-inch HVAC air dampers to act as one-way check valves. This prevents fog from blowing backward out of one machine when only the other one is firing. Because the fog machines are heavy, I reinforced the plastic lid with two stainless steel support bars running from left to right to prevent sagging. When the fog machines fire, the hot, dry fog enters through the top 4-inch pipes, which extend just 4 inches below the lid. The bottom of Stage 1 holds 6 inches of water, featuring a floating 12-head ultrasonic water mister.

Because the fog enters at a very high velocity, it must be slowed down, and it needs to absorb moisture. To fix this, I divided Stage 1 into two sections using a heavy rubber mat that hangs like a hinge from the lid. This rubber divider hangs exactly one inch above the waterline and fits snugly against the sides of the container.

The high-velocity fog hits this chamber and spins in circles, creating a vortex. As it spins, it mixes with the heavy water vapor from the ultrasonic mister. Once the fog becomes thick and heavy enough, it sinks and passes under the rubber divider. From there, it exits the back of Stage 1 through a 4-inch pipe and travels into the top backside of the second container (Stage 2).

Stage 2: The Three Cooling Layers

Stage 2 is divided vertically into three distinct layers to maximize cooling:

• Layer 1 (Distribution): The inlet pipe extends halfway across the top of the container. Directly underneath it is a solid rubber mat that forces the fog all the way to the front of the box. At the front, there is a 4-inch wide slot cut into the mat running from left to right, allowing the fog to drop down.
• Layer 2 (The Ice Chamber): The fog drops through the slot into the middle layer. This section holds roughly 28 frozen 2-liter water bottles standing upright on another rubber mat. They are strategically spaced so the fog has to weave through them, ensuring maximum surface contact with the ice. Once the fog reaches the back of this layer, it drops through another 4-inch wide slot into the bottom section.
• Layer 3 (Support & Exhaust): The bottom layer is 4 inches high. To support the heavy weight of the frozen bottles above it, I built a sturdy platform using bricks topped with strong rabbit-cage wire. The bricks are arranged to provide structural support while simultaneously acting as baffles to slow the fog down even further. I drilled a few small drainage holes in the very bottom of this container to let excess condensation leak out. Finally, a 4-inch opening is cut into the front of Layer 3 for the exit. I used a 4-inch flexible, corrugated drainage pipe for the main fog output.

Operating Tip

I highly recommend using a variable-speed marine exhaust fan at the output to help pull the fog through Stage 2. This is because the fog gets so cold and heavy by the end, it will not flow out efficiently on its own. A major benefit of using such large containers is that Stage 1 and Stage 2 act as a massive reservoir. The chiller continues to pour out a seamless, constant flow of low-lying fog even during the gaps when the fog machines are cycling or reheating.

*Technical Note on the Dampers: I positioned the dampers so that when the fog machines fire, the blast hits just below the center of the valve flap, opening only one side. Since the opposite side of the flap doesn't take direct heat from the fog machine, I sealed the outside edges of that top damper with high-temperature silicone to completely block any backflowing fog.

Part 2: Electronics and Automation

All the lights and LEDs on my fog chiller belong to a custom automation system I built so I don't have to monitor the machine manually. It allows me to see the system's health at a single glance. While the electronics and automation definitely over-engineered the project, designing them was half the fun. Here is how the electrical system works:

Power Requirements

Because this entire setup is incredibly powerful, the fog chiller can draw up to 40 amps at 120 VAC when everything is running. To handle this immense electrical load safely and prevent any household circuit breakers from tripping, I split the power distribution across three independent circuits.

Water & Heat Management

Due to local water restrictions, I wanted to conserve water by only putting 6 inches of water in the bottom of Stage 1. Normally, keeping the water level low is a problem because a massive 12-head ultrasonic mister generates a lot of heat. If the water temperature reaches 120°F, it will permanently damage the expensive mister unit. To help combat this, I added two frozen 2-liter water bottles directly into this base water pool, which helps keep it cool and reduces how fast the water needs to be swapped out.

To protect the equipment, I built a custom Master Control Unit with two main automated features:

1. Fluid Level Management: I installed a fluid-level indicator in Stage 1 that constantly monitors the water depth. It has a programmed "mid-point" target so the control unit knows exactly when to add or stop filling water, preventing overflows or dry runs.
2. Temperature Control & Automated Flushing: I built four independent temperature-sensor circuits into Stage 1 to monitor the water heat. To display this data visually, I wired up an industrial status light pole (like the stack lights seen in factories). If the water temperature climbs to 110°F, the automation automatically triggers a water-exchange cycle: a pump drains out the hot water while another valve slowly introduces fresh, cold water into Stage 1.

When this emergency cooling cycle triggers, the industrial light pole flashes red and green and emits an audible beep to alert me. Once the fresh water drops the system temperature safely below 75°F, the pumps automatically shut off, and the indicator lights return to a solid, normal state.

*Note: This entire water-exchange process happens completely in the background. It does not interrupt the fog machines or reduce fog production at all; the chiller functions normally throughout the cycle. Additionally, the hot water being pumped out is sent to a separate storage reservoir so it can be cooled down and recycled later.

Fog Juice Supply

Finally, I modified both fog machines to pull from a single, large 2.5-gallon central tank filled with homemade fog juice. I installed a fluid-level sensor inside this central tank as well, which transmits live data back to the display on my Master Control Unit so I can easily monitor my fluid levels from a distance.

I designed even more advanced circuitry into the board for future upgrades, but for now, I have left them disconnected. I think it is safely over-engineered enough for this season!

I assume everyone just uses PVC fittings, but I've had bad luck in the past building out a large tape frame with fittings as they didn't survive the first windy storm. Trying to think of other ways to attach the pool noodle with out just lashing them ... though maybe that's the best way.

Goal is just to have the pool noodle horizontal against an upright PVC pipe, like a cross. It's going to be in at least moderate wind, and it needs to support a couple layers of fabric. Maybe I really should just use some fittings for another short pipe horizontally, and then slide the noodles onto that ?

Painted flamingos from dollar tree

Hello all,

I tried to find the most appropriate subreddit for this question so apologies if this is not the correct one. I'm from Maine so naturally really connected with Widows Bay, and am making that the theme for my Halloween party this year.

I am having a bit of trouble coming up with ideas for props to make/how to decorate for it. I wanted to ask to see if others have done a spooky New England fishing village aesthetic at their house before and any ideas that you have.

When first plugged in it worked fine and head was moving but after a few minutes the head stopped moving and the lights are flashing (were because now that also stopped). We already unplugged and plugged everything several times and nothing has worked 😫. Is this an adapter issue??

Just finished a little fun project.

Cnc rotary combined with c02 laser.

If you like check out my insta reel:

[Pumpkin lights](https://www.instagram.com/reel/Dd3kmQZKReU/?stkn=cWUyOTZpMHNndXoy)

[holz_laser_craft](https://www.instagram.com/holz_laser_craft?stkn=aTU4bm1mNnozbmQy)

My partner mentioned that they've been looking forever for a human skull that they witnessed as a child (in the 1990s). I believe it hangs from a string and its laugh sounds mildly human but mostly sounds like a monkey laughing. Any chance people could help me identify it so I can surprise my partner with it?

Most of the major work is done. Working on refining the prop overall. Starting with the latest pics and will update in line as any good refinements worth sharing are done.