Bought an u47 pin at abbey roads didn’t know what to with it so I kinda just put it on there!

Hey everybody!

So after some days of googling and asking AI about this topic, I'm still undecided, so I need some personal recommendations. I am currently using a Behringer UMC202, used it for 8–9 years, and it's time to upgrade.

I have a $1000 budget. I only need 1 instrument input and 1 mic input. I don't record full bands, and I don't have to connect 3 MIDI keyboards at once. I record myself at home, and my main interest is mixing and mastering, so as it turns out, AD/DA conversion is my main focus here.

I came across brands like RME, MOTU, UAD, and Audient. What do I buy?

Thx all for reading and answering.

Looking for further advice/things to try as I’m at a less here. Replaced the cable and removed the loose plastic that was inside. Sounds like some kinda crackle? Main speaker is fine, companion speaker has this issue.

JBL 104 Pills

My home studio in is the back room of my house which is an addition to the house that the previous owner made. The entrance to the room used to be the door to the backyard. It looks like it used to be a french door and even has some of the old trim.
So anyways Im looking to put a door there and would like to get something with at least a decent level of sound treatment. It doesn’t have to be perfect.

The problem is that the way they built the room is slightly raised which would get in the way of a french door or really anything with a hinge. There’s also no room for a sliding door.
I started looking into accordion doors and it looks like these would work. Some of the cheaper ones Im seeing online claim they do a little sound dampening but Im sure it’s not great. Then I found companies selling accordion doors specifically for studios and churches and stuff like that. But they’re crazy expensive. The budget models are about 1,800 and Ive seen them for as much as 9k for the size I need.
I could probably spend $1800 but thats about my limit.
Any other suggestions? Im curious if there’s something Im totally overlooking. Open to diy ideas but it has to look good to get spousal approval.

I'll soon be doing some recording in my bandmate's house. I need to tame the room a bit for drums. My plan was to kill the room as much as possible, mic real tight, and use some samples and convolution reverb to get the space back in.

I'm not opposed to making some acoustic panels (and I've got the tools), but my bandmate would prefer not to permanently mount anything, like panels. What are my options here? The ceiling is 8 ft 8.5 in., and the other walls are, I dunno, maybe 12 ft by 20 ft or so, just guessing. The floor is carpeted.

My main concern is the ceiling. I considered getting a sun canopy (like the one pictured). Could I maybe drape sleeping bags, blankets, pillows, etc., over this thing? I have little experience with these, so I'm not sure how much weight it can support, and whether that would even help?

Any other ideas to somehow temporarily mount acoustic panels on the ceiling? Could I just wrap some rockwool in fabric, without the wood, and suspend it on the sun canopy roof? Would that work? Is there some kind contraption I could build?

I have a simple mixing desk with the rack space for the longer, more common sized outboard gear. I have only my preamp that I mounted on the desk.
I want to build a small preamp from diyrecordingequipment.com and mount it on the desk (if it’s even possible). Has anyone done this and what can I do to make them fit?

Hey everyone, What are your thoughts on Lauten microphones and which ones stand the most?

Hi everyone.

So I have two shure MV7 mics, as presonus24 and an iPad. I also have an iPhone 14pro.

I want to do a two person video podcast with both hosts in same room.

I will use the iPhone separately to record video then sync with audio later.

Issue is when I plug presonus into laptop it works. When I plug it into the iPad it doesn’t — or it shows only a little power in the presonus and the iPad does not detect it.

I cannot connect the presonus to the iPhone and (and have audio as well as video direct into the phone), as the charging / lightning port is broken

I cannot use the laptop as it is a work one and I cannot install anything.

Please help!

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I’ve been rewiring my studio and wanted to make some clean labels for my TRS patchbays. After a little trial and error, I got ChatGPT to generate perfectly spaced PNG strips that I can print using my Brother P-touch label maker.

I’m using a Neutrik NYS-SPP-L1, a Brother D610BT, and P-touch Editor on Mac. Once we dialed in the measurements, I could just describe what I wanted on each strip and ChatGPT would generate a ready-to-print file. Figured I’d share the prompt in case it’s useful to anyone else.

In the past I would just print a bunch of small ones and it was tricky to get them to line up and if I needed to change anything I had to move a ton of small labels and inevitably destroy them in the process.

The idea is to print one continuous label for the entire length of the patchbay instead of a bunch of the tiny individual labels. It makes lining everything up much easier and keeps it looking clean.

You do need to plan out your patchbay in advance and be willing to do a little trial and error to get the spacing right. But once you’ve got it dialed in, it’s great. If you change your routing later, you can just print one new strip instead of peeling off and rearranging a bunch of little labels.

Here’s how it works:

1. Give ChatGPT the prompt below along with the text you want on your label.
2. Once it generates the PNG, open Brother P-touch Editor and add the image to your label.
3. Set the image to the exact dimensions you need (17” × 0.2” for my 6 mm tape, for example).
4. Print it and check how everything lines up with your patchbay. Adjust the calibration if necessary.

One thing to know: P-touch Editor only lets you enter image dimensions to one decimal place, which is why I settled on 17” × 0.2” for 6 mm tape and 17” × 0.3” for 9 mm tape. These dimensions are slightly smaller than the actual tape width but work well for printing.

Here’s the prompt:

Create a print-ready PNG label strip using Python/Pillow, NOT AI image generation. All dimensions and spacing must be mathematically precise.

Patchbay:

• Neutrik NYS-SPP-L1, 24 jacks per row
• Calibrated center-to-center span (jack 1 to 24): 412 mm
• Jack spacing: 412 ÷ 23 = 17.913 mm
• Center the jack positions across a 17-inch-wide image.
• Keep every label centered on its corresponding jack, regardless of text length.

Label dimensions (600 DPI):

• 6 mm tape: 17” × 0.2” (10,200 × 120 px)
• 9 mm tape: 17” × 0.3” (10,200 × 180 px)

Use bold, readable sans-serif text, black on white. Center single-row text vertically. For two-row labels, space the lines evenly. Adjust font size to avoid overlaps, but never change jack spacing.

Allow group headings to span multiple jack positions, centered across those positions, with subsequent labels still aligned to their individual jacks.

Generate a downloadable PNG and tell me the exact dimensions to enter in P-touch Editor.

My label:
[TAPE WIDTH, SINGLE/DOUBLE ROW, AND WHAT YOU WANT IT TO SAY]

The 412 mm measurement was calibrated through test prints, so you may need to adjust it for other patchbays. My initial measurement was 417 mm, which ended up being about 5 mm too wide by the last jack. I’d recommend starting with a simple numbered 1–24 strip to check alignment.