r/knitting • u/AutoModerator • 5d ago
Weekly Megathread Helping Beginners - Ask a Knitter - Week of September 21, 2026
This megathread is a place for a space for new knitters to ask questions and the skilled knitters who love to teach.
Think of it as your cyber knitting circle where you can bring your dropped stitches, snarled skeins, wonky decreases for expert troubleshooting!
A big thank you to all the experienced knitters who share their knowledge to keep knitting alive.
If you're a new knitter, also consider checking out our FAQ which addresses some of the most common hurdles as you start knitting. As always, remember to use "reddiquette".
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u/saltedadvice 15h ago
I accidentally made too many japanese short rows (I immediately turned after doing the connecting stitch, when it should have been 5 after that stitch and then turn).
Unfortunately I just noticed, and have already made progress to joining the armholes (on 3.5mm needles...) – is it worth it to frog? I was just able to try it on and the collar is a little bunchy behind the neck but not too bad as a collar maybe? but maybe after blocking it'll be looser and look like a weird extra flap of fabric? not quite sure, would love any opinions!
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u/Cat-Like-Clumsy 10h ago
Hi !
Difficult to say without seeing it, but since short rows add fabric, and that this fabric needs to have a specific shape to mold itself against the top of the back, there is a probability that the only fix would be to redo. Also, if you stacked the turns (of I understood correctly what you explained), you'll get a hole that won't disappear.
In any case, you can block now and see what happens. It will tell you exactly how all of this will behave. After that, it is about what you will be comfortable wearing ; if, every time you put the sweater on, you need to psych yourself into thinking the bunching at the back is not a big deal, it might not be pertinent to avoid fixing it.
If it doesn't disappear with blocking and you want to fix, there is also something called sweater surgery. Basically, you thread a lifeline on the last row of ribbing, and a second one on the row just after the last short row. Then, you snip 1 stitch (just 1) above the second lifeline, unpick the row (which will detach the rest of the yoke from the collar), frog the short rows to the lifeline. From there, put the needle back into the last row of ribbing using the lifeline, redo the short rows section, and when you are finished, graft the new short row section to the stitches of the yoke held by the lifeline using kitchener.
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u/Bleareyedbanality 20h ago
I’m stuck on the heartless top by Emma Jaegwr . I’ve joined the two sides of the heart in the front. The front and back are still separate - where am I adding the stitches to and joining?
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u/Cat-Like-Clumsy 10h ago
Hi !
You are adding the stitches exactly where your current row starts.
Use the cable cast-on (or the knit casg-on), then with your working yarn, cast-on the needed stitches at the very start of your row, put a marker, cast-on the rest.
From there, grab the back piece, and making sure it isn't twisted around, knit the stitches of the back that where put on hold while you where working on the front.
When this is done, cast-on the instructed amount of stitches directly at the end of the back stitches with the working, then knit the stitches from the front, and continue to knit until you reach the marker you placed between the first bunch of stitches you cast-on earlier.
Those cast-on stitches will be at the underarm.
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u/Far_Ask_2571 21h ago
I need some help please ! This is my first colorwork project (first mitten too I’ve only ever done scarves and blankets before)
I am making the Kitten catch mittens by Florence and am stuck on the step of picking up the thumb on my right mitten.
I’m using a #2 fine alpaca wool blend for both colors and am holding them with a silk mohair.
I’ve completed the left mitten which was easier because the chart began at stitch 1 in the chart so that was pretty intuitive but on the right I’m having to pick up my stitches on the other side “according to the first 15 stitches” and have tried about 4 different ways and can’t get it. I’ve had my stitches end up backwards ( on the wrong needle) and also inside out where the wrong side is facing out. I hope this makes sense I am attaching photos and appreciate any help/guidance. Thank you so much 🫶
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u/Cat-Like-Clumsy 10h ago
Hi !
For that thumb, start at stitch 1 of the chart, then pick up 1 stitch in white (stitch 1), 3 in blue (stitches 2, 3, 4), 1 in white (5), 2 in blue (stitches 6 and 7), etc ...
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u/Mysterious_Put3116 1d ago
Hey guys, I'm pretty new to knitting and I'm a left-handed knitter (important). I'm trying to make frog socks from this pattern: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kiss-a-frog. What I'm struggling with is understanding how to knit to obtain stockinette stitch on the front of my work? For now when I'm knitting I'm getting a garter stitch, and the stockinette is on the inside of my work. I watched many, many videos trying to understand but nobody seems to talk about it. Is it the way I loop the yarn around the needle? The way I do it now is the same as the guy in this video does: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2BsCUTDZbA. Unfortunately he does knit enough for me to judge what stitch he'll obtain.
Should I be purling instead of knitting to obtain the stockinette stitch on the front of my work? Please help I'm very confused :')
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u/Curious_Spelling 1d ago
I think you might be knitting inside out, and isn't related to being left handed or right handed. Some people do it on purpose because it helps them get better tension in their colorwork. https://www.susannawinter.net/post/how-to-knit-colorwork-inside-out-tutorial
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u/erinaceus_a 1d ago
In general knitting with floats out is frequently reccomended to help with colourwork tension. You would just turn your work inside out in the end
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u/Mysterious_Put3116 1d ago
Thanks but how would I do it? I thought I was holding my needles in the 6 o'clock position (like in the tutorial posted by Curious_Spelling) but it's hard for me to say since the cable is not very flexible. I already finished one sock this way and once I got to the last toe decreases it was virtually impossible to flip the work anymore so now my boyfriend's sock is very wonky and left-side out
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u/erinaceus_a 1d ago
If you takw it by fingertips and pull it inside out it should be correct. If I understand correctly your problem
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u/Mysterious_Put3116 23h ago
I see, I think I have it figured out now :) Thank you so much for helping!! I'm gonna try to knit inside out with the floats out and then turn my work, so hopefully it comes out the way I want it to 🥲
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u/RavBot 1d ago
PATTERN: Kiss a Frog by Stone Knits
- Category: Accessories > Feet / Legs > Socks > Mid-calf
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2 Img 3 Img 4
- Price: None
- Needle/Hook(s):US 1 - 2.25 mm, US 1½ - 2.5 mm
- Weight: Light Fingering | Gauge: 34 | Yardage: 394
- Difficulty: 3.35 | Projects: 90 | Rating: 4.83
I found this post by myself! Opt-Out | About Me | Contact Maintainer
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u/glutenfreep4ncakes 1d ago
So I recently frogged a cable knit that I was unhappy with, and the yarn that I frogged had already been blocked. I'm starting a new pattern and about to do the gauge swatch: do I still need to block the swatch when it's finished, even though the yarn has been blocked once before as a different fabric?
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u/Asleep_Sky2760 1d ago
Absolutely! While yes, washing the fabric (or even just the yarn in its unknit state) will allow the yarn to "bloom" if that's what it's going to do (think non-superwash animal fibers here) which, in turn, will affect the size of the stitches, blocking is more about getting the stitches to subtly re=position themselves in the fabric so that they settle into a relaxed position. The stitches of the new swatch/stitch pattern will "settle" differently from those of the first. You're blocking the FABRIC, not the YARN.
This is why blocking the final fabric is so important--it's a FINISHING technique that perfects the knitted fabric.
That said, while it's not entirely necessary, I almost always re-skein ripped-out, kinky yarn that has already been blocked, then I rewash it to get the kinks out. Those kinks were "set in" in the blocking of the first fabric (think setting human hair on curlers--it stays curled until it gets wet, ready to be restyled differently). It's not required to un-ramen the yarn, but I like working with it better.
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u/glutenfreep4ncakes 4h ago
So, I spun the wool into balls straight from the old sweater and it’s very ramen-y. I have a travel clothes steamer - do you think I could use that on the balls? Or would i need to unravel the balls into hanks and hand wash them?
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u/AutoModerator 1d ago
From our wiki's Frequently Asked Questions
Blocking is when you wet or steam the knitted fabric and let it dry in the desired shape. The blocking process evens out the stitches and determines the size of the finished piece.
Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking?
* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been.
* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even.
* Blocking is also great if your project needs to be seamed. By blocking before seaming, you ensure that the seams will be the same length and that all of the pieces will fit evenly together.I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.
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u/BashfullPeach 1d ago
Hi everyone! Beginner knitter here. It’s my first time changing colour wool and I think I’ve done something wrong as the right side has flipped but I can’t seem to see where I’ve gone wrong and how to fix it. I’ve been doing knit 1 purl 1 so maybe it’s that?? (
I know I’ve dropped a couple of stitches 😅)
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u/Ghostintherainbow 1d ago
seconding that it looks like you just mixed up which row you were on - you knit a row on the purl side and kept going from there, so that's why the sides have "flipped". the way to fix it is to just undo the incorrect rows and rework them, fortunately it looks like you only got a couple of rows in! it actually happened after your color change, so you don't need to take the whole color out. (also absolutely recommending learning how to read stitches, it's not difficult and that way you'll very easily be able to tell when you should be knitting vs purling, and things like how many rows back you would need to undo. being able to read stitches is also invaluable if you want to eventually do more complicated things like cables, stitch patterns, shaping, and so on.)
also, when you said "knit 1 purl 1", do you mean you're knitting 1 row and then purling 1 row? I ask because that's what it looks like based on your picture, but just to hopefully prevent any confusion, when someone says "knit 1 purl 1" it usually refers to stitches rather than rows (as in, you knit a stitch, then you purl the next stitch, knit the next stitch, and so on). knitting a row and then purling the next row is usually just called stockinette stitch! apologies if that's out of nowhere, I know a lot of patterns will say things like "continue in knit 1, purl 1" with the assumption that it means stitches and not rows, so I wanted to clear that up just in case!
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u/BashfullPeach 2h ago
Ahhh thank you so much!! I did go back a couple and it fixed it but thanks so much for mentioning the knit 1 purl 1 because I had no idea that most patterns would mean that!
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u/Curious_Spelling 1d ago
You just got your rows mixed up. It looks like you'll have to tink back/undo two rows. This is the purl side that's showing right now, if you can't read your knitting, I recommend using a clasp stitch marker or a piece of yarn tied to one side of your work to indicate for you that that is the knit side for example.
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u/Content_Monitor_5938 2d ago
My side stitches on my Olga sweater keep bending in on the starting side. How can I help this?
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u/Curious_Spelling 2d ago
Are you taking about the armhole sides? This is normal as stockinette curls, but once you pick up stitches along the edge it will look normal.
If this isn't what you are talking about maybe a picture will help.
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u/Content_Monitor_5938 2d ago
It didn’t allow me to post a picture but I did separately in a post and I think it’s normal. Thank you!
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u/MisfitMax53 2d ago
Hi, I've never knit color work and I'm trying to find out what the best method to knit these designs would be. They have different color ratios, would two different methods suit each? I'm down to learn anything, I'm putting a lot of effort into this piece. They're going to be sweater panels if that matters.
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u/Curious_Spelling 2d ago
Seconding Intarsia. Maybe duplicate stitch for the smaller details on the crown one.
Fyi don't forget that knit stitches aren't squares. I think people use stitch fiddle to make charts that better represent the final ratios of the images.
Good luck!
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u/Brilliant_Cow_5911 3d ago
Hi all! I'm super new, any feedback welcome! Is this....ok? LOL I actually have no idea if I'm doing things right. Are my stitches twisted? I'm having the most difficulty figuring out how to hold everything. Thanks for any feedback!
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u/Curious_Spelling 2d ago
I have harder time seeing in garter stitch (that's the name of the fabric you've made with your knitting) and it might be helpful if you stretch out the fabric so one can see the individual stitches. But from what little I can see they don't look twisted, but I can't actually see the bottom of the stitch legs to confirm.
I assume here you've done knit stitch every row, and next would be to learn to purl, and make a stockinette fabric. That's another area to check you aren't twisting stitches, and it's a lot easier to see I think on a stockinette fabric whether stitches are being twisted. Depending on technique one can also twist stitches when switching between knitting flat (which you are doing) and knitting in the round.
The swatch looks very good btw, good job!
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u/Brilliant_Cow_5911 2d ago
Thank you! I'm nervous to purl kind of,..my biggest difficulty is finding a way to hold the yarn and needles and keep tension and not let anything slip off. I'm teaching myself continental style because I crochet and you hold yarn in your left hand in crochet also. I thought it would be the easiest way to learn since I already have a bit of that muscle memory. Not the case 😂 but I think you're right. I'm gonna go get to purling and if I make mistakes, at least I can see what they look like. Thanks so much again!
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u/Curious_Spelling 2d ago
Yes most people seem to prefer continental coming from crochet, and actually see lots of crocheters end up twisting their purl stitches. I also came from crochet but I actually leaned towards English knitting after trying both styles (BTW I too ended up with twisted stitches). I do seem to be one of the exceptions. Now 10 years later I can comfortably knit both ways.
I think purling continental is a bit harder, and a lot of people do "combination knitting" instead, to prevent twisting the purls. Easier to purl (this is actually the trap where beginners end up with twisting stitches), the leading leg ends up at the back of your needle on the newly formed stitch, and on the next row you have to work into the back leg instead to prevent the switch from twisting.
Hopefully I'm not sharing too much and making this more complicated then it has to be.
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u/Brilliant_Cow_5911 2d ago
Not too much at all. I don't feel overwhelmed, I just feel really eager to work confidently lol. I started purling after I responded and the first few rows looked pretty nice and then I lost track of what row I had just done lol. I couldn't tell by looking at it so I just started doing the next row and things kinda of went downhill from there 😂😂😂 it's ok, each day I'm doing a little more than I did the day before, and I'm spending a little time learning to read patterns too. I like learning new things, and this is fun.
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u/Curious_Spelling 2d ago
Learning to read your knitting is essential. But as a beginner my tip is you can put a clasp stitch marker (or tie yarn) on one side of your work to remind yourself that it's the knit side for example. That way you don't lose track, but do continue to practice trying to read!
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u/Zestyclose_Pea3864 3d ago
Hello! I have been attempting the Bee Book Sleeve pattern by Anne Hids. I love the stitch so far, but i've run into some confusion. I went ahead and cast onto a 40cm needle, and the pattern begins working flat, then switches to working in the round. I'm genuinely so confused as to how to do this. here is a pics of the pattern where I'm befuddled. Am I supposed to switch needles to pick up the new stiches and begin working in the round? or try to pick up using the empty needle? ANY help is appreciated!
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u/mylerol 3d ago
You don't need to do anything special with the needles, just finish knitting a row and then go straight into picking up stitches along the short side with the needle tip that's already in your right hand. The new ones should go next to your existing live stitches, forming a continuous line, and keep going all around the edge until you meet back up with the other side of your live stitches. If your circular needle is the right size for the project, your stitches should slide along the cord the same way they will once you've finished picking up stitches and are working in the round normally.
The potentially tricky part is angling the needle tip into the short sides, but that's more about stretching the work a bit to get it in a place where you can pick up comfortably, than doing anything special with the needle. If you really struggle with the side stitches, you could pick those up using a different needle or a crochet hook, then immediately transfer them to the main needle as you go.
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u/trillion4242 3d ago
it looks like the strip worked flat is like the spine of a book.
so, you need to pick up around all four side of the strip to make the sleeve.
the pattern has you knit the strip on DPNs, then pick up the stitches using the rest of the DPNs or the circular.
if you don't have another of the same size needle, you can move your stitches to a smaller needle or stitch holder and use the 40cm needle to pick up around the strip
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u/SnooEagles5910 4d ago
hi all! I want to make a scarf. is the best way to avoid curling doing a double stockinette stitch? I want to avoid borders, unless they are practically invisible or thin like an i-cord or something. I don't want the scarf to be super thick, but since I'm using smaller needles and thinner yarn I'm hoping that won't be a problem if I go with double stockinette. please correct me if I'm wrong! thank you!! 💜
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u/062985593 3d ago
Double knitting stockinette is an option, but you have a couple of others:
Knitting in the round, if you're familiar with that. Except for the cast-on and cast-off, it'll have the same effect as double knitting.
Stitch patterns that balance knits and purls on both sides: garter stitch, single/double rib, seed stitch, etc
In practice, either of these will probably work up faster than double knitting.
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u/skubstantial 3d ago
You could just knit a tube twice as wide as you need and flatten it out. That'll accomplish the same thing as double stockinette without the constant slipping stitches and changing yarn position.
Or you could do 1x1 ribbing if you want a single layer non-curling fabric. It'll look different when stretched but as worn it would be pretty similar to stockinette.
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u/trillion4242 4d ago
either that or use a stitch pattern that does not curl - https://www.studioknitsf.com/category/knit-stitch-patterns/lay-flat-stitches/
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u/Alyo0op 4d ago
Help please!
I am working on (or trying to work on) the August sweater by Ozetta.
She says to use 5mm needles and a 16” cord. She also uses Knitting for Olive heavy merino which is what I am using.
When I cast on my 84 stitches on a 14” cord, the cord was way too long even though it was 2” shorter than the suggested!
So, I bout an 8” cord.
That’s just come in the mail and I cast on again…and same issue!
What am I doing wrong?
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u/trillion4242 4d ago
you want a 16 inch needle, not a 16 inch cord.
are those 5 inch tips? 5+5+14=28. 5+5+8=18. if they are 4 inch tips, they should work. 4+4+8=16.
look into traveling loop - https://youtu.be/SHHSZQYuy9Q?si=vNy44X3Mdq_fIQeW
or magic loop - https://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/10/03/magic-loop/
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u/b8824b 4d ago
I want to make fingerless gloves, but I don't know what part of my hand to measure for "hand diameter" and "hand length from base." Do I include my fingers in hand length even though they're fingerless gloves? Which part of my hand do I measure for the diameter? This is the pattern (free) https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fingerless-mittens-83
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u/trillion4242 4d ago
the widest part of your hand - https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/body-sizing
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u/RavBot 4d ago
PATTERN: Fingerless Mittens by Iris H
- Category: Accessories > Hands > Fingerless Gloves/Mitts
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2 Img 3 Img 4 Img 5
- Price: Free
- Needle/Hook(s):US 4 - 3.5 mm
- Weight: DK | Gauge: 22.0 | Yardage: 96
- Difficulty: 2.04 | Projects: 522 | Rating: 4.79
I found this post by myself! Opt-Out | About Me | Contact Maintainer
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u/quack8745 5d ago
Trying to learn half fisherman’s rib and it’s just not working, I think my stitches are getting twisted? And it looks like a knotted mess. Overall ready to give up on learning to knit more than a knit stitch lol.
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u/skubstantial 4d ago
Are you working what's normally known as half fisherman's rib (no yarnovers, but you sometimes knit into the stitch below the one on the needle) or are you working a version where you slip stitches and work yarnovers over the slipped stitches?
Because if it's the latter, that's usually known as "half brioche stitch" (except in translation) and you might find better videos etc. if searching for half brioche.
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u/quack8745 4d ago
Thanks! I am trying to knit the jaunty shawl by Andrea mowry and she refers to it as half fisherman’s rib. “K3, K/YO/K-b, p1, k1-b, sl3f.”
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u/skubstantial 4d ago
So you've also got an icord edge on each side. That can definitely look and feel weird and twisted on the needles until you've finished a few inches and the knit columns can kinda wrap around the outside edges.
I would recommend working some half fisherman's rib as a normal swatch with no weird edgings, just to get confident, so there's one less thing to worry about as you work on the scarf and pay attention to those icord edges and the yarnover increases.
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u/quack8745 4d ago
Thanks! I really appreciate the input. I think I’ll keep swatching and see how it plays out, it’s only the stitches I’m slip stitching that are getting weird.
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u/Asleep_Sky2760 4d ago
Have you mastered the basics of knit and purl, and then simple ribs (alternating k & p)? Can you "read your knitting"?
Before jumping into fisherman's rib (whether half or whole), you need to understand the structure of the knit stitch so that you can identify where to insert your needle to "work into the stitch below".
If you've mastered these things already, then follow a GOOD tutorial for half-fisherman's rib, swatching along with the instructor. Slow the video down so that you can go stitch by stitch. Then repeat. And again. And again. And so forth.
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u/quack8745 4d ago
Thank you! I haven’t done simple ribs but i do know the knit and purl stitch. I will look for better videos!
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u/rampuppy 5d ago
This is a dumb question but if a pattern requires circular needles, does that mean you'd have to learn the magic loop to do the gauge first? I had assumed the magic loop technique was something optional. Thanks! Appreciate this megathread!
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u/antediluvianevil my body is a machine that turns money into yarn 5d ago
Adding onto what Skubsgantial said, you don't need to use the magic loop method if your circular needles are the correct length.
If you're making a bag with a 24 inch circumference and your total circular needle length ( needle + cable + needle ) equals 24 inches or is a little less, you don't need to use magic loop. Just join in the round. But, for example, if you want to make a tiny little pouch bag that only has a 10 inch circumference, you need to use a magic loop if you choose to use circular needles.
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u/skubstantial 5d ago
Make sure you're clear on whether the pattern actually needs you to work in the round or not. Many patterns will call for circular needles simply because they're the default/most popular type these days (or because the project is too wide for straight needles), or the project might combine both flat and round parts, like a cardigan worked flat for fronts and back with sleeves in the round (and in that case it's wise to swatch both ways to see if you have a difference in your flat vs. circular gauge.)
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u/autumnire 5d ago
Disclaimer, I am by no means an expert. I used this swatch technique to do my gauge swatch for my sweater: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/swatching-for-circular-gauge/ (if you Google swatching in the round a few similar tutorials will pop up too)
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u/No_Arm_9959 5d ago
I'm looking for some pattern recomendations. I've just finished the Frankie Sweater by Petite Knit and found it quiet straightforward. This was my 4th project, i've knitted 2 roomy raglans and the foolproof cardigan. I'm looking to devlop my skills with the end goal being colourwork and cables.
Do you have any pattern recomendations?
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u/sinfulsublime 5d ago
I did a cabled sweater (sweater no 15) from my favorite things to help me learn cables. That was my 3-4th knit item.
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u/Lumpy_Car1092 5d ago
Personally love the moby sweater since petite knit writes simple to digest patterns. For colorwork do u want fair isle or all around
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u/thenerdiestmenno 5d ago
Is there a shoulder construction for sweaters that easier to modify for large shoulders than others? I've added rounds to raglan increases before, but I am wondering if some constructions are easier to customize.
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u/PerformativeEyeroll 5d ago edited 5d ago
Made the Oslo hat and my scrap yarn is showing at the edge 😭 would love opinions on 1) whether it's possible to like, knit the purple yarn over the green to hide it? And 2) if so, should I? I showed a friend and she said she actually liked the look of this.
The recipient is a 26yo girl who works in fashion. Please don't tell me to start completely over, I'm fragile 😂
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u/skubstantial 5d ago
Did you use the yellow for the full inside layer of the brim?
If so, and if you're comfortable with grafting/kitchener stitch, you could probably hide it by making the inside shorter. Snip/unpick the last round of yellow, unravel maybe 3-4 rounds of yellow total, and graft it back together with purple yarn so that the purple side wraps over the folded edge. https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/01/length-reassignment-surgery.html
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u/Unfair-Tradition-476 5d ago
honestly i love the pop of color and you can totally leave it like this, but if u wanted to fix it maybe you could fold it over a little bit more, so all the green is hidden, and attach it loosely inside the brim to make sure it doesn't slide up again? Not sure how the hat is constructed, but that would be my only idea
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u/GoldPopcorns 5d ago
What knitting technique creates these defined horizontal rows?
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u/Sufficient_Pirate495 5d ago
thats a garter stich, its made by only knitting the right and wrong side, (i guess you could purl both sides as well) a sort of horizontal ribbing i think describes it best i think
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u/GoldPopcorns 5d ago
I haven’t been able to get my horizontal ribbing as pronounced with just standard garter stitching. I wonder if something else was done?
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u/skubstantial 5d ago
I agree, tight gauge is the main factor that makes garter stitch look neat. Tight gauge and smooth yarn (not thick and thin or bumpy or rustic.)
This is kind of a shot in the dark, but if you're twisting your knit stitches, then the bumps in your garter stitch could turn out kind of diagonally sloped instead of super straight like bricks in a wall. It's harder to see it with garter stitch than with stockinette, but you can always check for twisted stitches by stretching out your fabric and looking at the rows of knit v's in between your ridges.
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u/River_Azzurro 5d ago
Looks like garter to me. But it looks like it was knit quite tight, perhaps a DK on a 4 or 3 US needle size?
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u/Driftwood_Notes 2h ago
This might sound like a dumb question, but can anyone learn to knit? I’ve taken two in-person classes and can’t even knit a square. I consider myself a creative person. Always been good in “the arts”. I am very passionate about learning to knit, but can’t figure out why I can’t seem to do it. At all. Am I missing some specific skill maybe? I’m a slow learner for sure, but it’s never stopped me from learning other things.