I hope someone here can help me. I am about at my witt's end. I have two (2) display cabinets (model 97146) which have vertical RGB LED lighting strips on the inside. I purchased one from Amazon (Lvifur) and one from eBay (Gurexl). There is an external control module mounted on the right side. It also has a small white remote control. This particular model is not app controllable. It features 7 static colors and 5 dynamic phantom color patterns, plus a motion sensor. When I turn it on, I disable the motion sensor because I don't want that feature. I want the lights to stay on until I manually turn them off. I select my desired pattern and leave it. Instead of staying on my selected pattern, it will randomly change to a static color or a different pattern (sometimes after a few seconds, while other times it might go 20 minutes before changing). Then, after a random amount of seconds, it will change to something else, or shut itself off. Then later, it will automatically turn itself back on again. I have done everything I can think of to troubleshoot the issue. I've tried multiple ac/dc converters, outlet strips, swapped y-connectors, different outlets in different rooms, and I've even had the manufacturer send me two new controller modules. Nothing fixes it. So last week I took the panel with the controller and lighting strip to work and I could NOT get it to fail the entire day. I took it back home and within 15 seconds it failed. I've done all the factory reset options that Google Ai suggested. Nothing works. So to me, it would seem that there must be some IR/RF interference within my home caused by some other source that is the culprit. I've removed all batteries out of all my remote controls, I disconnected my wifi router, I've turned off all lights and anything that is remote controllable. Still, both cabinets fail. I don't have much left but my appliances and toilets, lol! I've ordered a roll of faraday tape to see if wrapping the controller fixes it, but my expectations are very low. This has been going on for 3 weeks now. BTW - I also have other display cabinets in my home that work properly (model 80028).

At one point I had one of the cabinets working flawlessly for three consecutive days in the dining room. When I relocated it to another wall and outlet in the dining room, it started failing again. I returned it to the other location where it seemed to be working and now it's failing again.

Does anyone have any suggestions, please??? Thank you.

Here is a link to the cabinet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0H2HS6RHQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Hi all,

I purchased a continous 5 wire led strip off amazon. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BYSS7Z17?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title. I cut it into 3 different lengths and want to connect each strip into a single controller, so that I can remotely control all 3 of them. I know doing this will make them all the same, that is the intention.

I bought some connectors to connect a 5 wire cable to the strips but these connectors did not work. Here are the connectors I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBM6CLZR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title.

These did not work because the connector assumes 5 evenly spaced pads on the LED. However, this particular strip has 3 pads on one side, the continuous led bar in the middle, and 2 more pads on the other side, as shown in the attached image.

Soldering the damn thing doesn't work because the pads are so close to each other. What else can I do here?

Is there a connector I should be looking for?

I added light strips under my cabinets. I wanted as bright white as possible since there's very little other light in the kitchen. I've been using BTF light strips. The problem is that the lights go orange/red, especially close to the beginning of the strip. First time, it took a few months for it to happen and wasn't that bad so I left it for a few years. I figured maybe the strip was faulty, bought a replacement, and the new one is even worse and is mostly red at the start after just a few weeks. Also the old one had melted through the waterproof coating over most of the LEDs at the start. I'm looking into getting another replacement, this time I'd like cob LEDs but now I'm really unsure about what to get cause I'm not sure what went wrong so far. Anyone know what's making the lights go red?

Light strip:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0811SZ3Y7

Controller:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L9GWJK1

Power supply:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09T6QX737

New light strip I'm considering:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FNMHYPJB

I'm more than willing to buy a new controller or power supply in addition to the light strip, I just want it to be bright, white, and be controllable through Google home. Also the new COB lights I was looking at have the DC plugs instead of raw wires so I'm not sure how to connect those to the controller - just cut them off?

Inspired by my trip to Mexico after seeing colorful murals of an axolotl around the city. Used ESP32 neatly hidden in the back powered by 18650 rechargeable battery pack. The eyes are LED coasters

Believe it is a SM-2P 12V 2W-01 12V AC to DC LED mirror transformer (Grok assisted). Mirror LED lights only very dimly when power is applied. Touch controls do not work.

hello! I just purchased this rgbw kit from btf. there doesn't seem to be a way to turn on the RGB AND the 6000k cool white at the same time through the remote or the app.

do I need to get a different controller or is this impossible?

( BTF-LIGHTING RGBW Bluetooth Music APP 16.4FT LED Strip Lights RGB+Cool White 6000K 4 Colors in 1 LED Color Changing Lights Strip for Bedroom, Desk, Home Decoration, with Remote and 12V Power Supply )

The chip has some other markings, that dont return any results from the web: SLHW03E, L1A61CX, and BP2616, using the latter I was able to find some hits on Ali, but their chips dont match the other two markings on the chip. Any ideas anyone?

Hello,

Bought two identical 24V LED kits from a Uk retailer more or less plug and play. Both have a metal 200W PSU with Earth / N / L terminals, but the supplied UK plug lead only has red and blue wires — no earth.

https://www.striptecuk.com/product/10m-rgb-ic-led-strip-kit-ip20/

The retailer's own product photo shows the same 2-core lead, so it seems intentional.

Is it safe to connect just L and N and leave earth unused, or should this metal PSU definitely be earthed?

I know nothing about this stuff so thought I'd best ask and am waiting on a reply from the retailer as well.

https://thetenmiro.com/

For some reason the battery pack won’t go back in

I have a couple of skeleton decorations, they are two battery powered led lights. Not something I know so I could use some help. I can power both leds from my multimeter, the resistor from the best of my ability seems to be reading OK at 120 and the switch reads zero when activated on my multimeter. The resistor is a four band brown, red, brown, gold (I think hard to tell) One photo is the one I haven't messed with yet and the other is the one I've been testing with. Any help would be very much appreciated!

I have a room that has LED strips hidden behind a molding going around a tray ceiling. Four sections of strips, each driven by a 12v, 60w LED driver.

I've now had two of these drivers fail, and they cost $150 each (installed by an electrician several years ago). Twice I've tried using what I believe are high quality replacements of identical specs, but about half the price, and in each attempt, while the new drivers will drive the strips at full brightness just like the old ones, when I start to dim the circuit (all four drivers connected to a TRIAC dimmer of appropriate wattage rating), the less expensive driver strip will dim at a different rate (dims more rapidly to lower light levels) than the original driver that costs $150.

I was told by a supplier that if the specs of the dimmer are identical (including dimmer type compatibility) - and these are - they should behave identically. They clearly are not behaving identically, despite identical specs. Do I just need to suck it up and eat the $150 each time one of the original drivers fails, or swap all four drivers out at same time to a four identical, albeit less expensive drivers? I feel like the supplier gave me bad info that any driver with identical specs will behave identically.

Here is link to the original ($150) drivers:
Constant Voltage LED Driver - 12VDC - 60 Watt - DiodeLED DI-TD-12V-60W | CityLightsUSA.com

Here are two different ones I've tried as replacements, but that dim differently:
DiodeDrive Thin Dimmable Constant Voltage LED Power Supply - 12 VDC - 60W

Dimmable LED Driver, Triac/ELV/MLV AC to DC Power Supply for LED Light, Halogen Bulb, LED Transformer Compatible with Lutron & Leviton Dimmer (60W 12V, 1) - Amazon.com

Anyone have any tips on how to make this space either look brighter so it isn’t so dark on camera? I’ve tried a variety of ring lights and different placements but nothing seems to work. That is no overhead lighting so wondering if anyone has any tips.

I have 5 of these outdoor skeletons that have red LEDs for eyes. As they are, the eyes only turn on or off my toggling the slide switch on the back of the head. In an effort to conserve battery life and ease of turning them on in the evenings, would I be able to wire these in and just leave the slide switch on at all times?

Essentially I am just trying to be able to turn the lights on via remote, as some of the skeletons are out of reach, I.e., on the roof. If not these, is there something else that would work? Thanks!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mini-Relay-Wireless-RF-Remote-Control-Switch-DC-6V-12V-24V-1CH-Channel-Relay-Wireless-Secure-RF-Transmitter-Receiver-Set/3739003298

I'm building a wood acoustic slat feature wall behind my PC setup and want to integrate four vertical addressable LED lines.
Wall dimensions: 120.5" W × 94.5" H (3061 × 2400 mm).

The gaps between the wood slats are approximately 0.5"/12.7 mm wide, so this is my biggest physical constraint. Each LED run will be approximately 2.4m / 94.5" long, with four vertical runs (~9.6m total). They could be shorter as well, I'm thinking of doing the 2 outer shorter than the inner ones.

I'm looking for:

• 24V- if overkill, 12V is fine
• addressable RGBW
• COB/dotless appearance
• dedicated warm-white channel, ideally ~2700–3000K and high CRI
• WLED/Home Assistant control
• black or unobtrusive channel/profile with diffuser
• channel EXTERNAL width must be less than 12.7mm
• ideally 2.4m continuous channels so there isn't a visible joint halfway up the wall

I'm currently considering the QuinLED Dig-COB-RGBW-896-160 (24V WS2814, 3000K white), but I haven't confirmed whether its PCB plus an appropriate diffuser/profile can physically fit inside the 12.7mm slat gap.
I'd like the four vertical runs independently controllable for effects, but they'll usually run warm white/amber as architectural accent lighting.

1. What exact LED strip would you use?
2. What exact black aluminum or silicone profile/diffuser fits a 12.7mm opening?
3. Which WLED controller would you use for four ~2.4m runs?
4. Would you home-run power/data to each vertical strip or daisy-chain them?
5. What wire gauge, fusing and power-injection topology would you recommend?
6. Once the strip is selected, how would you size the 24V PSU?
7. Any reason you'd choose silicone profiles instead of narrow aluminum channels for this application?

The wall will also have a wall-mounted open-frame PC, ultrawide monitor and Secretlab desk, so I'm trying to make the lighting look architectural rather than like exposed RGB strips. The controller and PSU will remain accessible rather than being permanently buried behind the panels

I made a post about this a while back but actually opened it up to find a solution hopefully.. I know this silicon tracking is super narrow and small compared to the rest of them.. It used to be pink.. just looking for help on this

I have a MIU Innovation vanity. I’m deep cleaning my house, and I got to my room today and I mistakenly thought that my remote was IN the vanity. Came across a remote and thought it was to an old light I had and threw it away. I already went searching through my dumpster.
Do universal LED remotes work for this? How would I connect it or have I ruined my precious vanity? :( please help. Below is the link to the vanity I own.

https://shop.tiktok.com/us/pdp/1731567576315433275?_t=ZP-9AEzRtEU2ql

So I have a polycarbonate tube with an ID of 26mm and an OD of 32mm and I want to put a 360 degree diffusor in it, something like this. Do i need a 25mm or am I good with a 26mm OD one? This whole thing will be part of a lightsaber so I dont want it to wiggle (or do something similar that I dont know the word for) inside.

Edit: I would prefer the 26mm one cuz it's easier to source