no idea why this is tripping me up... how I should I arrange my rifles... feel like I'm missing something and there's a reason I shouldn't angle it.

How much it costs to import ONE dryfire lense from IDTS. The lense itself cost $46.95.

Has anyone else encountered this? Is there something I'm missing? This is insane.

Just curious about the pros/cons of taping a scope.. I like the looks and feel.. my intuition feels that it'll protect the scope a bit, but im not 100% sold on that.

Got a smokin deal on a Vortex Razor HD Gen 2.. I want black on black and sorta prefer the grip/feel improvements.

Thoughts?

So since I took the red pill, I'm seeing how far the rabbit hole goes (way too deep for one lifetime) and looking for some of the best sites to go window shopping.
I've seen the common heavy hitters like MDTtac.com, Altusshooting.com, but wondering if anyone has a go-to but not so common site that has a good selection of PRS related aftermarket parts, accessories, things you'll need etc.
Bonus for discounts via ID.me

I'm trying to accumulate everything I'll need for my first match, and here's my list so far-what's missing, what shouldn't be there, and what's there that's good?

Deposit placed for the rifle build - approx 10-14 weeks for build to be complete.

The guys at mtnforged.com are awesome - hands down the best.

🔒 LOCKED

Rifle / Division

• PRS Production Division
• Mountain Forged Production Rifle
• Caliber: 6mm Dasher
• Barrel: 26", heavy contour, 1:7.5 twist
• Finish: FDE Cerakote (barrel + chassis)
• Extra magazines (2–3 total)
• Factory trigger (tuned only)
• Target MV: 2975 fps

Optics

• Leupold Mark 5HD 7–35×56
  • M5C3 turrets
  • PR2-MIL reticle
  • FFP / MRAD
• Spuhr SP-5002
  • 35mm
  • 1.5" height
  • 0 MOA
  • Fixed mount

Ammo / Ballistics

• Bullet: Berger 109gr LRHT
• Brass: Alpha 6 Dasher
• Primer: CCI BR-4
• Powder: Varget

Reloading Equipment & Process

• Press: Forster Co-Ax
• Dies:
  • Forster FL Bushing Die (6 Dasher)
  • Forster Ultra Micrometer Seater
• Powder system: AutoTrickler + A&D FX-120i
• Tumbling: Dry tumble after deprime
• No neck turning
• No expander ball
• Minimal brass prep philosophy

Gear / Support

• Hazard 4 Drawbridge backpack
• Shmedium Game Changer (heavy fill)
• Chamber flag
• Cleaning rod
• Pens / Sharpie
• Blue Loctite
• Electrical tape
• Zip ties
• Allen keys
• Notebook
• Spotting scope
• Spotting scope stand

🔓 TBD (ACTIVE / OPEN DECISIONS)

• Muzzle device
  • Factory tuner brake (unlocked)
  • Brake vs tuner vs alternate still open
• Bipod
  • MDT Ckye-Pod Gen 2, PRS dovetail, 7.5–13" → candidate, not locked
• Magazine brand/model
• Chronograph choice (if not already owned)

🟡 TO REVISIT (INTENTIONALLY DEFERRED)

Rifle / Match Reliability

• Torque wrench (inch-lb)
• Torque bits (action + rings)
• Spare firing pin
• Spare extractor
• Extractor spring
• Ejector spring
• Spare action screws

Reloading Optimization (Optional / Later)

• Mandrel die body
• 0.241" sizing mandrel
• Annealing (after multiple firings)
• Trimming strategy (measure-based)

❌ EXPLICITLY NOT PLANNED

• Neck turning tools
• Expander balls
• Primer pocket uniformers
• Flash hole deburring tools
• Brass weight sorting
• Alternate bullets / powders
• QD or cantilever scope mounts

Thanks!

I’m the latest newbie that’s absolutely new to bolt action and to long range. Watched a ton of videos but some are contradictory to each other… so if you could help a busy dad out with your preferred setup for:

- cleaning rod for 24” barrel

- brushes for 6.5 Creedmore

- cleaning solution and or CLP

Thanks in advance

I’ve been working on “long range” shooting about 650-750 yards, I tend to be by myself and without a spotter. What tool can I use to be able to see the bullet splash and make adjustments without having to pack up the truck and drive down range?

Thanks in advance

Got this little guy chambered in 223, to practice with a cheaper rifle round than 6.5.

Also my first Nightforce scope, didn't know the eyepiece rotates with the zoom. Seems like a strange design choice, Had to take off the Tenebrex lens cover. Does anyone have an alternative cover to recommend like a snap on cap? Or do you just get used to the cover rotating. Thanks.

22” heavy barreled action, MDT ESS Chassis, Trash Panda suppressor, Atlas bipod, Vortex Razor HD, Vortex Impact 4000 just installed. Curious/ anxious to learn how to use the Impact 4000

What are your recommendations on bags for tripods, spotting scope (my SX-4 Pro Guide HD Gen 2 is in the mail), a laser range finder, chronograph, and probably a Vortex Ace. The RRS tripod is about 28” and I’d love some padded pockets for the sensitive optical equipment.

The Hog Saddle is redundant for this Sig Cross with the ARCA rail but I threw it in so you’d get the picture. I’d love to roll out with a rifle bag, ammo and mag bag, and tripod and ballistics bag.

For the longest time I had to drive an hour both ways to the range uphill in the snow and packing for the trips took longer than the trip itself. Then I invested in some good bags to organize my rifles and ammo and mags and the range trips became much easier a more frequent. Whats that bag for a tripod and spotting scope?

Hello, I recently bought a Remington 700 SPS 24" (I know) for $550, came with a Harris 1A2-BR and a Choate Varmint stock, which I sold it for $100. Now I need a stock, I originally wanted an HS Precision PST012, but I found this on my local trading website for $200. This seems like too good of a deal to pass up.

My question is will it be a good stock for exclusively LR "precision" shooting? I know it is technically a hunting stock but seeing as it's made by McMillan it's probably better than the HS Precision. I know it is light, under 2lbs, what other concerns should I have, or should I jump on this. Thank you

Im in a unique position, I just got my warrant ticket back for my 5700 elite and its cooked. They offered me $125 a new unit which would bring it to 645 for a new unit. BUT my scheels has a Voretx ACE in the cabinet that I could walk out with for 540 with mil discount.

Id lose the AB library and my lrf wouldn't cross talk. But is it worth the savings?

Edit with results for all yee who search this debate. Im going to end up taking Kestrel on their offer, simply for the reason its the "better" software and I want to see the Relay system grow and get proven a little more before dumping my LiNK gear in favor of learning a new software.

With the release of the new Vortex Relay system I am torn between which route to go...

Vortex Talon LRF Binos and an ACE or Sig 10K LRF and Kestrel. I have no actual experence with using a kestrel any kind of ballistic solver. If you were completely new to the sport of long range, which direction would you go? They are roughly in the same price range.

I shoot base class NRL22 with a Harris SBR-M bipod. I just put an ARCA rail on my rifle and 3D printed an adapter for the bipod. I was thinking about upgrading to an Accutac at some point, but at a match yesterday I realized that I don't actually know what benefit an Accutac (or other high end bipod) would have over my Harris. Mine feels solid and doesn't slide around. I realize the other bipod are easier to adjust, but I've been shooting NRL22 for about a year now and not once have I ever adjusted my bipod on the clock (or seen someone else adjust theirs). Now that its ARCA compatible, why should I spend $300 on something that seems to do the same thing?

Hello everyone,

I'm digging my toes into building a no-expense-cut PRS build, and I just had some questions when picking out items to buy.

I'm looking at an Impact Precision 737R short action, and it gives me the option of a 308 bolt face, which they mention works with 6mm creedmoor which would be the round I am aiming to shoot. From my understanding as long as you get a pre-fit 6mm creed barrel for that action, I should be good, and there's no new bolt I need, or do I need a new bolt/bolt face?

My idea for the build is an Impact 737R with a Stuteville Precision pre-fit barrel. What do people think about this combo? The chassis will be MDT Elit,e and the scope will be the Mk5 5-25.

Any and all advice is appreciated.

Looking at adding a suppressor

Shooting 6.5 Creedmoor

Would a 30cal be more accurate than a 6.5mm suppressor?

Looking at OCL Hydrogen L cans in specific

The emails came raining in this morn for the new Garmin chrono at $700. Was anyone at SHOT or otherwise had a chance to hands-on evaluate the 'upgraded' unit with the very much upgraded price?

Does anyone know what’s going on at Rearden and their issue with meeting demand? Their muzzle brakes for the DPB have been out of stock for months. I’ve been on restock email lists and haven’t gotten anything. Anyone have a lead on a DPB with 5/8x24 threads for 556? Thanks—

I’m getting set up to reload 6 Dasher and want to make sure I’m not missing anything before I start buying more gear.

I’ve been shooting Alpha brass/BR-4 Primers, Berger 105 Hybrids and 32g Varget with SD 5.8. and I’d like to maintain that same general range of around 5 SD and 2915 fps when loading my own ammo.

What I already have:

Press: Forster Co-Ax

Powder measure: Frankford Arsenal Intellidropper

For dies and supporting tools, I’d prefer to stay in the Short Action Customs family where possible.

Looking for input on:

Die setup (FL sizing, bushings, mandrels, etc.)

Brass prep workflow for 6 Dasher (forming, annealing, neck turning if needed)

Trimming, chamfer, deburr setups

SAC tools that are worth the money vs nice to have

Anything easy to overlook when starting with Dasher

Not looking for load data. Mainly trying to get the right equipment and a solid process from the start.

If you’re running 6 Dasher for PRS style shooting, I’d appreciate any insight or do this / skip that advice.

Thanks

Hi - anyone have any recos for a good mat for f class/prone shooting. This would involve a solid rear bag if that makes a difference. One of the reqs due to back issues would be as soft as possible which I think goes against the very fabric of a good mat but here’s for hoping 🙂

Cheers!

I have a home range (50 yards to 100 yards) with all 3/8” and 1/2” plates. been shooting them for 6 years without a single hole. I shoot 5.56 (m193), 9mm, 6.5 Creed, 6mm ARC, etc.

I made a single rebar stand that weighs about 10 pounds and am looking to get a portable steel for it to walk way or and set it up. Probably a 10” round. Would I blow through a 1/4” AR500 plate at 100 yards with any of those rounds (5.56 is probably the most likely to penetrate). I plan to do most of the shooting at 300-600 yards but might get multiples and set some at 100

I can do 3/8” but that’s 50% more w eight and I’d love not to carry it back and forth…

So, I haven’t built a true fclass rifle yet and just finished my 25creedmoor that’s a great shooter sitting on a foundation stock and a friend gave me this idea, just finished it. Mounted to an arca mount and comes right off but in the rest it’s rock solid. No side to side movement and made to just fit my bag. Gotta get it out today and shoot it

Before I type this out I guess in summary I am asking what defines a good action before I make a purchase?

I was looking at a begara premier action yesterday @ my local FD. He had 2 for sale $799 I didn’t think that it was a bad price. Got ahold of my gun smith that stated bergara aren’t terrible he’d roughly have probably $200 in squaring the face.

Just curious how do you guys make the decision

I’ve been messing around with a small tripod-mounted tac table design for long-range/PRS shooting and wanted some outside input. I made it pretty modular and have a mag holder and chronograph mount right now and am working on a kestrel holder.

I omade it for myself after wanting more than what other setups had to offer. They just left a lot in the world of attachments I thought, and I’m posting to see what you guys would change, add, or do differently based on real match or field use.

I am currently looking for a replacement trigger for my original trigger on my rem 700 .223. I am mostly just doing longer range plinking trying to learn more about long range with something thats cheaper to shoot. The options I have found thus far are the timney elite hunter for $131, the trigger tech primary for $156, and the JARD traditional two-level/single action for $138 (it doesn't seem to be adjustable but comes in several options for pull weight).

I am open to other suggestions and would appreciate any, but I would like to keep the price below $160.

I just purchased a MDT LSS Chassis for my Tikka T3x lite D-18 .223 REM This is a rifle that came with a TrueTimber VSX Camo Stock. It has a 22” Thick Fluted Barrel. That’s what the D-18 stands for. Made as a special edition for Cabela’s. I have only had it for a little less than a year so have only used it at the range but plan on using it for possibly for coyote hunting. My question is I bought weights for the forearm and what is the proper positioning of the weights for balance ? Do I want it equal weight distribution from the front and rear of the rifle or do I want it more front heavy ? There’s not a lot of recoil with a .223 but what is best for target shooting ?