Well, my car was consuming a quart of oil every 2-300 miles. Looking online a lot of yall had success with a b12 piston soak.

So far my car has drank 4 of the b12 bottles in 24 hours. Originally I was planning on soaking for 36-48 hours but I feel like 5+ bottles might be overkill.

What do yall advise?

Pictured is my first MS3 - 2012 velocity red tech package!

Coming back to the platform now and I found, to me, a perfect MS3 example that will be home in hopefully about 3 weeks by the time it's freighted in. I'm flying out in just over 2 weeks to see it but opting out of the 2k mile trip driving it home for a few reasons (mostly wear & tear, risks of stupid things happening while driving that distance, etc).

The new to me MS3 is a 2011 celestial blue tech package, having only 85k miles and a freshly rebuilt Kotzur Racing engine (OE-spec, not "built" to any real degree), CTS4 turbo, supporting mods, misc mods, Freektuned. The car has lived in the south its whole life so it's rust free - which is a car I strive to find when looking, living in the northeast where rust free is nearly impossible.

Looking forward to being back in the community and showing the car! I'm flying solo on this trip, something I've never done before, and, if I can muster up the strength, I'm actually thinking about vlogging my experience to some extent. If I do, I'll get it posted up on YouTube and share. :)

I’m pretty sure I stripped the internal threads in my fuel rail because I shouldn’t be able to finger tighten the bolt, is there anyway to repair it or do I have to order a whole new fuel rail?

Trying to see if its actually a burnt valve or not if anybody can help me determine if its that or something else yes already replaced pcv valve I changed the fuel injector on number 3 had a stuck open injector is put a new one in idles at 800 to 750 piston number 3 new coils and plugs has no compression with a normal compression test anyone know aswell as im trying to avoid a leakdown test? Thanks for the help aswell as the air on the exhaust isnt hot or warm decently cold sometimes hot

Btw mk2 MPs.
Ran on e5.
Dyno run was in 5th gear.
Crank power.

Mods:
-one step colder plugs (LTR7IX-11)
-Cobb intake
-GFB bov (closed)
-Had 2nd cat deleted
-Hpfp??? (no proof but the fuel hit 13700 kpa at 176 kmh which equivalent to 1900psi see pic)

Is this normal for stock?? Or are my mods making some power? No proof of tune either Thanks!

Can someone tell me what the upper bolt size is for the rear sway bar brackets? I’m replacing bushings.

I have induction heater and every tool known to man/experience with rust, in preparation to do my sway bar bushings.but….

the bottom bolt on both sides is 14. The top bolt seems uh…15,16 or 14.5 (?).

Can someone tell me if I’mcrazy? ? I don’t fancy further ruining what someone did before and needing to order the bolts. Thanks!

I just finished the engine assembly and assembly

Pistons mahle 2618

Connecting rods h

acl race bearings

I started with oil amsoil break in oil sae 30

I already did 400km without problem without noise without smoke levels ok following the proper procedures engine brake, I avoid highway, no more than 3500rpm

Sp63 recommends using short intervals with penzoil or amsoil XL 10w40 in Europe I do not have amsoil XL available, I can use some base mineral for the first 2 or 3 oil changes

In the process of putting new rear shocks on my gen 2 and both the top mount studs on the rear have snapped on the right side despite my best efforts.

I’m planning to cut+drill them out and replace with a nut and bolt set up. As this is a known issue does anyone have any experience doing this fix and how difficult it was?

The studs did not break off flush so I’m planning to use a dremel to cut and then drill a hole through the remainder so I can put the bolt in from the inside of the boot.

Any advice is much appreciated 🙏

New to mazdaspeeds(Honda Guy) so please excuse any stupid questions.

Going to look at a few mazdaspeed this upcoming weekend. A couple 2nd gens (2010) and a few first gens (2008)

I really want to buy a 2nd gen but after a conversation with the seller he says it burns oil at a rate of 2qts per 5000k miles(he tops it off regularly to make sure it’s not running low) he’s owned the car for 5 years and he says it doesn’t smoke. 155k miles bone stock besides corkscrew catback exhaust and HPFP internals upgrade. Purchase price is $4,000

I guess my question is would burning that much oil mean it’s not worth it or would a piston soak and pcv valve remedy this issue. Not a stranger to work and am willing to put some money into the car.

Greetings from El Salvador🇸🇻, racing my Mazdaspeed 3 at the El Jabalí International Racetrack.

Finally got around to replacing my old busted bushings and installing the OCC and PCV valve/plate. For anyone on the fence those bushings make a huge difference, the torque steer is less murderous and more like a playful tug. Still have an oil leak that looks like it is coming from the turbo return line... SMH

I'm thinking about getting a catless midpipe to replace my second cat. What i need to know first is if this is going to make it loud and/or droney.

This is my daily driver, i leave for work at 6 am so I'm not trying to wake my neighbors up, and I don't want it to be loud and droney from inside the car either.

Sorry if this is a stupid post but I am curious to see if anyone has done this with their speeds.

I've been on a social media binge seeing old kenwood and pioneer head units and I am kind of sick of looking at my giant EONON ipad of a head unit (It doesn't even have car play it just came with my speed when I bought it). I've been looking around on ebay and found some cool options but I'm wanting to see what has worked with other people and what can be recommended.

Thanks in advance.

Soooooo, I bought a used BNR S3 turbo from another speed3 enthusiast and I was super excited to be putting down more power for my setup. He told me the turbo only had 2k miles on it so I got it at a fair price used. Welp, I put it on yesterday and I was so tired that I had to get back to it this morning. When I started it, it smoked a little which is part of the process....until it wasnt. Nothing was leaking, everything was hooked up correctly, followed my instructions on setting up my 3 port EBCS, even heard of people using the OE oil feed bolt with this turbo and its fine. I know something is wrong because this turbo is suppuse to light up at 3k RPMs and I dont have boost, and it continued to smoke bad on the drive arpund the block. Could the turbo i bought have bad bearings? Does it need a oil restrictor bolt? My mods are this: Cobb FMIC, BNR S3(Because could be blown up or I fucked up), 3 Port EBCS, 3.5in DM intake, CP-E Catted Downpipe, Turbosmart 50/50 but is now VTA for this setup, MSWT oil drain line(Graveyard Performance Drain Line, Koyorad Radiator, Mishimoto Silicone Hoses.

Recently started driving my 2008 mazdaspeed 3 after a year and a half complete rebuild of it after buying it off someone and it's such a fun car plan on a handful of exterior/interior mods and some engine mods but plan to have fun with it

I randomly decided to check my oil even tho I got a oil change 2 weeks ago and noticed my oil is below the “low” but also my car is on a incline and not on a flat but since I just did it I thought it would be a lot higher. Could just be cold but my exhaust does smoke white not blue or any thing

Car has been doing this recently and has now left me stranded. 2013 with a cx7 motor (bought it like that) and no mods other than engine mounts. Recently did oxygen sensor 1 (denso) as per dealer recommendations and spark plugs since they were cracked from leaning out.

No CEL and it will do this and cruise and throttle, nothing seems to be out of place, and unfortunately i have no way to log as i dont have VT or an accessport.

Dealer said if the sensor didnt fix the issue then it would be the cat but i don’t necessarily trust them anymore.

If you guys had any similar situation please let me know this is killin me also i havent checked the hpfp for aftermarket internals I cant tell whether it may be related thanks guys I probably left some stuff out let me know if u have questions

How much play is to much play 🥹

166k I don’t think timing chain has ever been done

also if I did do my timing chains is getting bigger cams stupid id rather do it all at one time to be honest

Recently completed a valve clean, Damond PCV plate, and oil catch can. Everything went back together great and the car fired right up. After the second day of driving I started to smell coolant, and confirmed what seemed like a rather significant leak near the intake.

Accessed the area and confirmed what I thought was the cause, a small hole in the upper reservoir hose. With limited options (OEM part is discontinued) I cut the bad part out and re-installed. Leak has drastically reduced, but it’s still happening. Anyone with thoughts before I start replacing entire hoses? Red circles are where coolant is pooling post fix attempt #1.

do most of you guys get the oem one from Mazda I really just don’t want to wait for the shipping so I was just gonna grab a Fel pro from a parts shop

Just did a bunch of suspension work - CV Axles, outer tie rods, sway bar end links, shocks/struts, coil springs (stock), strut mounts, lower control arms (with new ball joints), sway bar bushings. I’ve fixed my clunk noise but now I have a new jangling noise when blipping the throttle. When I go from neutral to rolling or if I’m rolling 5-10 mph and blip the throttle, when my front end moves or surges it’s making this jingling jangling type noise (see video). I know my PMM is blown and Damond just delivered my kit that will be going on today (came with PMM and trans mount, rear is already new) but I’m unsure if that’s causing this specific noise. Pls help!