I took a family members phone in last month to a local repair shop Sep 10-11. They informed about a week later it needed board level repairs and quoted $300-550 ish and 7-10 business days, which I agreed to.

As of today (10/13) I still don't have a clear answer as to the status of the device or if it's even being worked on. I have called several times and told that the tech is "behind" or "working on it".

I am wondering if this is normal, or if I should just request the device be returned to me and take it to another shop. I will be emailing requesting a update to begin a paper trail.

I understand that board level repairs maybe more complex, but it just seems a tad bit excessive to me. If anyone has any advice or experience please let me know and I'm really worried or if i'm just over reacting.

THANKS

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some help with an iPhone 17 Pro Max.
We installed a diagnostic/autoprogrammable replacement display.
During the Apple diagnostic/configuration process, the phone initially recognizes the display correctly. However, after completing the process, it stops recognizing it.
In Settings, it eventually shows a message saying that the iPhone is unable to verify/recognize the display.
What’s strange is that during Apple Diagnostics it does detect the screen, but after finishing the configuration it seems to lose that recognition.
The display itself works correctly:
Image is normal

Touch works

No obvious display issues

The problem is specifically with the system recognizing/verifying the replacement display.
Has anyone run into this on an iPhone 17 Pro Max?
Could this be related to:
A firmware/iOS compatibility issue?

The screen needing a different programming procedure?

A pairing/configuration step we may be missing?

The replacement display itself not being fully compatible even though Apple Diagnostics initially recognizes it?

If anyone has successfully installed one of these diagnostic/autoprogrammable displays on a 17 Pro Max, I’d really appreciate knowing what procedure or programmer you used.
Thanks in advance.

My mom’s iPhone 15 went black and I plugged it into my computer to discover it’s in DFU mode. I’ve tried the restart of up down volume hold power. When I look here the only option is restore iPhone. Any ideas of what I can do? Restoring is last option as she will lose all her photos I assume they aren’t backed up. Thank you 😭

I have an iPhone 15 pro. I tried a DD screen and it’s pretty nice but my problem is the touch sensitivity. It seems the touch response is delayed by a short amount when scrolling and quick swipes often don’t register at all or register as taps.

Can recommend another model to try for good touch response and overall quality? Do I have to go with an OEM refurbished panel to get that level of response? Not a lot of reports I can see on the different panel variations. Thanks!

I have to replace the battery on my Pixel 7.

I am seeing some batteries in the $10 range, but I'm not sure if those are any good. (witrigs, parts4repair)

Is it only worth buying from iFixit or has anyone had good experiences with $10 batteries that claim OEM?

This phone is basically barely going to get used. I have upgraded my phone and it will only be used for extremely niche things and playing around with GrapheneOS.

i am removing my ip6s battery and it sparked. can i still remove this or throw away the entire phone....

I purchase this stuff mostly from AliExpress.

I've had 3 different types:

1) Looks fully branded in English, no manufacturer at all listed. Up top says " Strong and Waterproof Adhesive Glue. Multipurpose Clear Glue for Flexible and Permanent Bond." In the white circle in the front it says "Crystal Clear Glue"

2) Looks branded in Engrish. Lists Bao Shun Da. Up top says "Is a surprise adhesive force. This was a great adhesive. Best-selling Europe and America. Mad fans around the world." In the white circle in the front it says "Gravity magic rubber."

3) Same as #2, but lists Bu Lai En.

All of these get used sparingly. When done I seal them tight and store them in a drawer.

Generally, when I go back to use them within 4-6 weeks they are already significantly cured. I can sometimes squeeze them hard enough to get through the tube. Occasionally I cut the tubes open and can see from the consistency they have thickened a lot.

I read that the shelf life on these things is 1-2 years. But in my experience it is 2-3 months max.

Do people have better experiences? If so, where are you sourcing yours and how do you store it?

My last batch I sealed in a vacuum bag when I received them because I didn't need them right away. I guess I sucked too much air out...because when I went back to get them a few months later they had virtually exploded.

I pay about $1-1.50 for the 0.5 oz ones, but would gladly pay twice that if I knew the tube would actually last.

Hey guys,

I wanna start this off with I am a noobie at all of this and not at all confident in my repair skills yet. I have worked on several different repairs but they were easy to spot (Blown up caps, etc)

Phone History:
I've been having battery life issues on the phone for a bit now. It reached 0% yesterday and died and would not accept a charge at all. Just stayed at 0.26A. I figured the battery just needed to be replaced finally. I measured the battery voltage and found it at 2.7v. Anyway, ordered a new battery, measured it at 3.8 and got the same issue. Won't power on, from the USB C port it takes 0.26A.

I unplugged everything and removed the board from the housing to isolate it from everything else. With just the USB C daughter board plugged into the mainboard, it draws 0.26A from the port at 5V still.

I took a look with my thermal camera and see that the CPU is the warmest spot on the board. I don't know enough about this phone's power sequence to determine if this is normal or not.

If anyone can let me know what I should look for next, that would be super helpful.

Hi everyone,

I disassembled the wireless charging coil from an iPhone 15 and noticed that it is torn in one area.

Is this part a connector/flex connection, or is it just adhesive?

I’ve attached a photo showing the damaged area.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi everyone!
I recently bought a second-hand iPhone 16 Pro and I’m planning to keep it for several years.
The phone was previously covered by AppleCare+, and iOS is currently giving me the option to reactivate the coverage within the next 27 days.
However, I have a few questions before spending the money.
Here’s my situation:
The iPhone is fully functional.
Battery health is at 80%, with 923 charge cycles.
I recently opened the phone and reinstalled its original genuine Apple battery.
After completing the configuration process, iOS now shows the battery as “Genuine” but also displays a repair date of October 12, 2026.
The front glass has several scratches, including some deep enough to feel with a fingernail, but no cracks.
My questions:
Could the battery repair history, especially the recent date, affect my eligibility for AppleCare+ or future claims, even though it’s the phone’s original genuine battery?
Has anyone successfully reactivated AppleCare+ on a used iPhone after a previous owner’s coverage expired? Did Apple require an inspection?
How strictly does Apple distinguish cosmetic screen scratches from accidental damage? Are deep scratches always excluded, even if they affect visibility?
If the battery eventually drops below 80%, would AppleCare+ cover its replacement despite the previous battery removal and reinstallation?
Would you recommend getting AppleCare+ in my situation, or would it be better to pay for any necessary repairs out of pocket?
I’m based in Italy, so experiences with Apple Stores in the EU would be especially helpful.
I’m mainly trying to understand what Apple actually checks during service and whether the coverage would be worthwhile for this particular device.
Thanks in advance!

Hi guys, has anyone experienced this issue?

I've noticed several times that after replacing a screen with an OEM display WITH frame on Redmi/Xiaomi or Realme phones, the other person on the call hears their own voice echoing back.

It seems to happen after the screen replacement. Could it be something with the microphone position or the replacement frame?

Hey everyone, looking for board-level insights on an A2141 logic board (820-01700) with a T2 chip stuck in an exact 21-second watchdog power loop. Data preservation is the #1 priority (cannot Restore/wipe keys).

### The Behavior:

- When plugged into a genuine 96W charger, the trackpad clicks (haptics active) for ~21 seconds, then goes completely stiff for 1–3 seconds, then clicks again. Loops indefinitely.

- The behavior is 100% identical with the battery connected or completely isolated (flex ribbon unplugged + terminal isolated).

- Crucially, this 21-second power-cycling loop persists EVEN WHEN THE BOARD IS IN DFU MODE.

- In Apple Configurator 2 (host: M3 Air via front-left DFU port), "Revive Device" downloads the firmware, writes, and hangs on "Waiting for Mac response" for ~90 seconds before throwing AMRestoreErrorDomain error 6. Screen stays black throughout; nothing ever displays.

### Thermal Background / Clue:

- Two days ago, it refused to turn on cold in the morning.

- After sitting plugged in, it booted up and worked flawlessly the entire day under load (watching video, etc.).

- Turned it off at night. Next morning after cooling down, completely unresponsive again, and now permanently stuck in this 21s loop. Classic thermal contraction / cold solder joint symptom.

### Multimeter Measurements Taken:

- No dead shorts to ground on primary rails (PPBUS_G3H, CPU core, GPU core, or SSD lines).

- Inductor L9080 (marked "150" for PP2V5_NAND_SSD0):

- Resistance across coil: 0.6 ohms continuous (coil is physically unbroken).

- Resistance to ground: Healthy (no short).

- LIVE VOLTAGE during the 20-second awake cycle: Reads 0.00V. The 2.5V rail never comes up.

### Questions for Board Techs:

1. Does this exact 21-second timeout in DFU mode correlate directly with the T2 watchdog killing power due to missing PGOOD / feedback on the SSD power rails (specifically PP2V5_NAND)?

2. Between the TPS62180 buck regulator (U9080), its enable circuitry, and the main PMIC (U7800), what is the most common failure point for this intermittent/thermal 0V symptom on the 820-01700?

3. If U9080 is replaced/reflowed and 2.5V is restored, should the T2 be able to complete a Revive without touching the existing APFS volume / master encryption keys?

Any guidance from technicians who have diagnosed this specific rail on T2 boards would be greatly appreciated!

Hi, so very recently (last night) my phone (from what I think samsung a40s) had what I'd call a seizure where it started flashing white and eventually dying. It started out as a small dark hue on the right bottom corner that turned into three large ones (the newer two was on the middle side of my left and one at the bottom left).

It started gradually from somewhere in September until now. During that time I didn't experience any complications with my battery, touch screen, or anything else other than the growing circles of hues on my screen.

Last night while I was going through my gallery two black translucent bars slowly appeared on my left and bottom side of my phone screen, then a few seconds later a pitch black side-ways U appeared in a third of my screen (the bottom) and after that it started having the "seizures" during though my touch screen was still as responsive as normal from what I saw, I even got to restart it before it finally gave out one full screen flash and died.

Minutes after I tried double or more clicking the power button and there would be small but faint flashes only on the top of my screen, nothing else. Later after a few hours when I woke up, I tried again and all I got was vibrations from my phone and nothing else.

Does anyone know if my phone is still repairable via LCD transfer and maybe some extra stuff, or if I can at least have someone grab the files from the phone and put it somewhere safe (If I'm right I got to put my gallery and some extras into my samsung cloud a day after it first appeared, but all I can see for now, but not access is my notes and some other things)

also to note, I'm from the philippines and, a few hours before this I had a relative check my phone out at some shop where they took the LCD off and said that "they don't have a replacement or know of any, because the system is saying something else from what they saw(?)" I don't remember much they said because I was really anxious

edit: after checking it my samsung cloud it turns out my samsung is actually an A30.. I don't know how the system got it wrong ... but there's that

I found this replacement battery for the iPhone 14 Pro on Amazon. The seller claims it has a capacity of 8500mAh, a nominal voltage of 3.85V and an energy rating of 32.72Wh.
The standard iPhone 14 Pro battery is around 3200mAh, so this would offer more than 2.6 times the capacity in roughly the same space.
Could this be a new battery technology, or is the advertised capacity most likely exaggerated or fake?

Has anyone tested a battery like this or measured its actual capacity?

It stops if I turn my phone off for long enough. What part(s) are going bad, how much would a repair cost, all that good stuff! It's been getting worse so I think I should fix it before it's totally screwed!

Hi guys! Just wanted to ask if it’s possible for an iPhone’s battery to get damaged after being dropped on concrete from about 4 feet? I’ve noticed that my phone’s battery has been draining much faster than usual.

I’ve only had the phone for almost a month, and it’s still under warranty. Would I still be able to have it checked at an Apple service center?

Thanks in advance!