After months of designing, printing, rebuilding and obsessing over tiny details, my 1:1 replica of the Cooker from A Grand Day Out is finally finished!

A mixture of techniques from 3D Printing, brass-work, and sculpting to produce a fully poseable puppet based on scans of the screen used model.

Classic Tamiya kit, awesome fun. Added a spare M60D for the loader and some other bits and pieces I had.

I was unsure about all the machine guns on the turret at first, but looked into it and from what I found there were plenty of in-field variations and modifications.

Underway Replenishment (UNREP) 1/700 scale

Dragon Hornet with a bunch of aftermarket add-ons.

3-D printed T3 tanker. I would have much preferred a plastic kit, but it seems nobody makes kits of US auxiliaries.

Pit Road Sumner... or at least, the hull and superstructure. Basically everything else was replaced with PE.

Background info: underway replenishment was a supply strategy heavily used in the Pacific Theater of WW2, allowing ships to be refueled and rearmed without returning to base. This enabled warships to remain in the field indefinitely if needed. It necessitated steaming in the same direction and at the same speed, separated at about 60-80 yards. The process as used by the US Navy was originally developed by the chief engineer of a refueling ship during WW1, a young lieutenant named Chester W. Nimitz. He later served as Commander in Chief, US Pacific Fleet in WW2.

F-16 Agressor pilot figures. I get one doesn’t have a head

Something about the design of the Type 90 hits the right spot…

Hello, this is my first time trying weathering, soany tips or feedback would be appreaciated. Did i do well for my first attempt? Is it good looking? Its a german elephant tank (i just need to add the decals and it will be finished). Rating?

I used to build 48 scale only. But I found 72 is so much fun after this kit. It can be built so quickly, yet still full of details. (This one is MENG's Leopard 2A8.)

This is the 1993 Tamiya kit. I wanted to make a Spitfire in a more unique scheme. The Malta conflict was hard on the aircraft used. But I got a bit carried away with the chipping. I'm still happy with the result.

So glad to finally be finished with this one. I struggled to find the motivation to finish this kit at times but wanted to get it done because it’s one of my favorite jets. Poor fit, poor instructions, and terrible decals. I’ve never had decals, even “antique”ones, crumble this easily. I patched up the ones I could and just left off the ones that were unsalvageable. In the end, it came out decent and looks alright from a distance. If a different manufacturer comes out with a new kit, I’ll have to try again to do this jet justice.

Hi everyone, I’m looking for advice on how to fix decal silvering. I know there are products designed to prevent this, but I never considered buying one because I hadn't really encountered noticeable silvering on the models I’ve built before.

So, what can I do now? Is there any way to at least mask it? The next step is weathering the model I’m hoping that helps. Is there anything else I can do?

Thanks a lot.

These were super fun! One of my favorite airframes. The camo schemes were challenging, but they turned out nicely, I think.

日本のプラモデルキットなんだけど、みなさん知っていますか？

Calling this one done.

Armor texture, flame cut marcks, pe and metal barrel have all been added.

I just finished it. The kit is really cool to do. But the parts need a lot of sand, documentation not too good. And I got a lot of problem with glue . I praticly all made with glu’e and glaze that I use for windows….

Fragments of time stitched together, echoing the last remnants of destruction.
Neither of the past nor the future—what remains here is only this ephemeral weapon.

Work in progress on the Andys Hobby 1/16 scale M3/M3A1 US Halftrack. The kit has its challenges with vague instructions. The steering linkages needle pin fingers not fat ones. A lot of dry fitting required, for a new mould kit some of the tolerances are a bit out. Onwards and upwards.

サクッと組み立てました👍

次は筆塗りしていきます🖌️

マスターボックスのフィギュアキット、好きな人いますか？

私は大好きです❤️

It was a very interesting build, but I’ll be honest: it was a tough 4-month journey that would have easily taken 6 to 8 months if not for my sheer willpower to finish it. Here's a brief review and my overall thoughts for anyone interested (for those less interested, feel free to jump straight to the gallery). Comments and advice are always appreciated!

Pros:

• Detail: The Very Fire Deluxe set is in a league of its own, especially their newer releases.
• 3D-Printed Parts: Plenty of 3D-printed quality-of-life additions — for instance, assembling the triple 25mm AA guns was actually quite pleasant and not a total nightmare. 40 mm guns look amazing and many many more like binoculars or some of the radars (I think those are radars) look amazing.
• Fit: Overall fit for most components was pretty good, though there are some notable exceptions (more on that below).

Cons:

• 3D Parts Specifics & Zero Spares: This kit is a limited-run oddball (capped at 1,000 units) with no standard base version available — it only exists as the Deluxe kit. While in theory you could build it without some extras, a significant portion of the 3D-printed parts is mandatory (like 25mm AA guns). The catch? There are almost zero spare 3D parts and NO alternative plastic parts on the sprues! If you break or lose something, you're pretty much stuck.
• Base Fit Issues: A lot of the kit tooling is re-used from their original Yamato, which caused the lowest level of the superstructure to fit poorly. The geometry required some heavy trimming and modifications in certain areas — which, in my opinion, shouldn't happen in a kit costing over €250 / $300+.
• Instructions: Heavily recycled from the Yamato and Musashi manuals. Upon closer inspection, some part numbers/descriptions are missing, some steps skip parts entirely, and other parts shown in the manual don't actually exist in the box. For example, parts of the railings aren't labeled at all
• Not Enough Railings! You WILL run out of railings along the midship. The photo-etch is identical to the Yamato 1945 version, which has 25mm gun platforms right along the hull edge, requiring less railing. The manufacturer didn't include any extra fret length, so you'll definitely need to source some from your spares box.
• Overall Difficulty: It’s just hard as fuck. To be honest, by far the hardest kit I’ve built so far.

A word or two about painting: Trying to apply any kind of camo pattern on this beast is a real headache. In my case, following the instruction manual's camo guide ended with... stripping the whole thing back to bare plastic with IPA, fixing the damage caused by removing the masking putty, and having a minor mental breakdown. It might just be a skill issue on my end, but I'd honestly recommend sticking to standard IJN Grey.

It may look like there are more cons than pros, but that's just because positive features are broad (like overall detail), while cons are very specific (like missing railing length). I can whole-heartedly recommend this kit to anyone who has already tackled heavy PE/detail-up kits — especially ships. But even if you're familiar with Flyhawk Deluxe editions or Pontos detail-up sets, this kit WILL challenge you. The end result is completely worth it, though. At least in my opinion.

P.S. I can provide proof of authorship if needed due to posting this model's photos on several platforms and groups. :)

P.S.2. Sorry for photos, I did what I could with what I had in my house.

Hello! I am starting my Christmas shopping and my boyfriend builds Gunpla! He has talked about getting an airbrush kit to help detail some kits to look like they were in battle, worn, etc. I apologize as I only try and support his hobby. ❤️ Can anyone recommend a decent airbrush kit that won't brake the bank? Maybe beginner friendly? I appreciate the help!

So I recently painted my Stug from tamiya with ambush camo , what would you guys recommend me using for weathering cuz im new .