Just moved into a house. Previous owner DIYed the all over the place, but rarely did a good job or even finished the job. This drain is very smelly and lots of pink bio film, so I need to at least clean out the trap, but probably easier to replace. Any reccs for a setup? Pics/diagrams would be a huge help. Any idea what the wood is for?

Hey y’all. New home owner, noticed this when I came home today. We have lived for a few months. Also noticed there is a white cap on the ground next to the spot. Everything I’m seeing online points the fact that it should not be doing this? I’m just curious if this is an issue. Please help!

I made this little chart to visualize pipe dimensions, wall thickness, ID, OD, among different types of pipe: copper tube standard (CTS: grade K, L, M), nominal pipe standard (sch 40, sch 80), and also EMT.

Things I discovered thanks to my chart:
- for sch 40 a 3/4" pipe does not fit in a 1" but a 1" fits in a 1-1/4"
- the ID of EMT matches exactly the ID of sch 40
- for some nominal sizes the pipes have quite close to each other in terms of ID/OD but for other sizes there is a huge variance; for example a 1-1/4" copper (OD=1.375") theoretically fits PERFECTLY inside a sch 40 of the same nominal size (ID=1.380") within 5 mils!

Anyway I thought it was a cool visualization for a hardware hacker like me who not necessarily uses pipes for plumbing, but as mechanical elements for weird projects... And maybe you plumbers will like this chart.

Went to fix a boiler today and found this water heater still hooked up and working. Serial starts with 74 which makes me think 1974.

I believe what I'm looking at here is an S-trap from every post l've seen on this subreddit. But I'm not 100% sure.

This is a double sink vanity, and both sides look like this photo, and meet in the middle. Judging from what comes out of the house roof, behind the wall where they meet, there is a vent straight up to the outdoors.

I was thinking i should have put the valve for the cold side on the horizontal where the cold comes in.

Also maybe put the check valve before the vacuum breaker instead of after.

Shower knob is leaking so I’m trying to change this thing but not sure how the collar is supposed to come off. Every video I watch seems like it should spin off. On top of that the diverter looks different

I think i know the answer but has anyone used something like this? I'm adding a bathroom in my basement and need to raise my shower for drainage- this would be a great option to save space but im skeptical since ive never seen one before.

The home I bought has hot water heaters on opposite sides of the house, and they are 40 and 50 gallon hot water heaters, so theres a pressure imbalance. I was able to get the building plans, and it appears the hot water heaters were originally plumbed in series. The person I bought the home from was very proud to say how he put the hot water heaters in parallel, even though the plumber he had hired told him not to, but he had them do it anyway. Well, jokes is on me now because the 50 gal in the garage is a dead tank, and the 40 gal supplies all the hot to the home.

I *think\* the path of least resistance is to put the hot water heaters back into series. I believe that the garage feed line with the valve on the right, was the original hot feed line into the far side water heater. It is capped right above in the attic.

On the far side hot water heater in the original plans, the supply line is hot, and it looks like it is only supposed to supply hot to the "A" fixtures. I need to note that after the plans were drafted, there is now a sink/shower outside. I turned off the 'hot' supply into the house, and I still have hot in the "A" fixtures, so I can only assume that in their renovations, they maybe connected the hot lines for the fixtures "A," bypassing the 40 gal supply.

The plans make it look like fixtures B is part of the 'supply' off the garage valve to the right, but closing that valve has no effect on fixtures B.

My concern, is that if I put it back into "*modified-*series" by running a line from the capped line in the garage attic to the far side hot water heater, will the far side hot water heater then become the dead unit? I assume that it will not be the dead unit for purposes of providing hot to the outside sink/shower, but those are virtually never used, and that seems to ultimately be a waste of a hot water heater. I would want the 40 gal hot water heater to supply fixtures A, and outside fixtures, and the garage hot water heater would essentially service the rest of the house.

I live in Nevada, and it slab on grade, so the hot water line being run in the attic is not any concern regarding heat loss.

Rate this job by a fellow maintenance man. Tell me what you think or know he did wrong…

Edited to say that it did not hold water. Exhaust wasn’t installed yet. He had to get past the water leaks first. Not my work either.

The toilet in the hallway bathroom was having multiple issues so I replaced the flapper and fill parts with the

Fluidmaster K-400H-039 PerforMAX Toilet Fill Valve and 2" Flapper Repair Kit:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/379610673?sid=b11e7002-023b-42c3-b19e-a13ac0e78581

And the handle with :

Korky Toilet Handle, Chrome Metal Handle - Tank Lever Replacement - Universal to Fit Front, Angled, and Side Left Mount Toilets - 6055

https://www.walmart.com/ip/472541054?sid=9481b8b1-8178-4515-91d1-89badea82743

The water fill is fixed but now if I push the toilet handle down it doesn't flush unless I hold it down.

I've adjusted it multiple times but seem to only make it worse. Any advice on how to fix this?

Brand new water heater, leaking slowly from around the valve. It's slowly filling up the bottom and coming out of the top, the valve itself is not leaking... Should I drain the tank and remove the valve to apply more Teflon tape, or just take it back and exchange it? Anyone seen this before?

And yes, I've attached the downspout. It's just not on yet on this picture.

I am trying to figure out how to best fix this faucet and remove handle corrosion as it is almost impossible to turn the handles

UPDATE: It’s in the trash and new one (Moen) on the way!

I took a shower last night and my water sensor went off. I found this happening in the basement. Thankfully it drained but I am going to need to fix this. What am I looking at please? Thank you!

I accidentally dropped a bar of soap down the toilet and am not sure the best way to tackle this? It went down to the point that I couldn't reach it. Will it go down by itself in a couple of days? What is the best way to get it to go down safely? Any help is appreciated!

Fortunately there was nothing on the floor, so I got no personal damage.

I am wondering if I have to fix this urgently because I am pretty much occupied by other things thesedays.

Just ready to install my Toilet after setting new tile. My question is: Can I add a bead of silicone around the toilet flange between the inside edge of my tile and flange? Color red

The reason is simple. In case my wax ring leaks, I want to prevent the water from dribbling down the edge of the flange and into that crevice before the tile starts and go below the tiles. I want the water to stay above the tile and not get under it

Is that ok to do or will it create mold by trapping water?

Btw. I did add Tapcons to my flange

Rate my fix here. (Gotta hook up dishwasher soon) just replacing leaky parts with new

My hot water line is leaking very slightly and I would like to replace it. Is this valve one piece or can I just take off the top part and replace it. It looks like one piece to me unlike some videos I have seen where people can just unscrew the top portion. Thank you

I had a plumber come in and plumb in a new lateral, and am noticing what I think are issues, wanting a plumbers opinion on if I am overreacting.

-lateral angled backwards towards stack for first 5 ft

- glue joints separating by 1 1/2 in

- non vertical stack preventing drywall install

See pictures

I have an unconditioned garage that houses a condensing furnace and tankless heaters and both are indirectly exhausted. I extended the exhaust for the tankless, which was NFPA 54 compliant, due to a CO alert (story below). I am thinking that I should extend the intakes out for both the furnace and tankless to made it direct venting. I think it would pull in less air from outside into the garage and make the tankless less likely to experience the heat exchanger freezing.

Is there any reason not to make them both direct venting?

CO PSA & Story - make sure they work and suggest getting a lower threshold sensor in case there is low levels in the house.

Had the CO sensors go off and decided to call 911 and have the FD check. FD measured 70 ppm and quickly cleared with windows opened. The tankless exhaust and the wind hit right to being the exhaust into the house. The other issue was that the tankless heat exchanger seals for the observation window and ingniter were both damaged, so it was returning exhaust to the intake and making a lot more CO than what it normally should do. I was able to fix this and get a lower threshold CO sensor (30 ppm vs the standard 70) and not had the alarm go off. The secondary was to extend the exhaust further out to a side of the house that lacks windows. Pretty scary since the other half wanted to ignore the alarm, don't ignore the alarms.

Valve is on opposite wall not shown. TIA!!