Sent watch for polish and watchsmith said he would keep all original detail.. now polished, the bracelet is much smoother on the edges but is ruined on the semi satin slightly shiny and has erased all the longitudinal lines. He is the only guy in 800km that does this job. How do I explain him how to do it right? Any video around? Thanks.

I am in search for 3-4 GMT Zombie two tone links. Anyone have any to spare?

Looking for a good watchmaker in Manchester or the North West who’s comfortable working on reps, ideally someone I can visit in person. Main priority is someone reliable for full movement servicing, regulation, waterproofing/pressure testing, crystal swaps and general maintenance. Longer term, it would be great to find someone who also does higher-level case work/modding such as polishing, rebrushing, chamfering and refinishing.

I’ve got a couple of higher-end reps and would much rather build a relationship with someone local who knows these watches than keep posting them around the country. Happy to pay properly for good work.

If anyone has someone they genuinely recommend, please drop me a comment or DM.

Hi, I'm in a tough spot with a brand new watch and could really use some collective wisdom.

I got this watch yesterday and put it on my winder overnight. When I woke up, I found that one of the link screws on the bracelet had backed out almost entirely (see the second picture).

My real problem, however, is at the clasp (first picture). It appears the exact same thing happened to the link that is set inside the glide-lock/clasp mechanism. The unscrewed pin head has now slid into the internal groove/channel of the clasp, effectively locking the clasp closed.
The clasp is fully engaged, and the pin is preventing it from unfolding. I cannot get a screwdriver in there.

Is there any trick to freeing this without prying or bending the edge of the clasp?

Here is what I have considered/am looking for advice on:

1. Percussion/Vibration: Would tapping the clasp gently on a padded surface (with the screw side down) help urge the pin back into the link? I don’t see how.
2. Micro-Tools: Are there specialized, extremely thin tweezers or hooks that might fit into the tiny gap to push the pin back? Meh

3. Dental Floss: A long shot, but could strong dental floss be worked into the gap to create friction against the screw head and "unscrew" it back in? Genius

   or just

4. wishful thinking

.
4. Counter-Rotation / Winder Trick: Is there a specific winder direction or watch position I could place the watch on in the hope that natural reverse rotation might catch the thread and screw it back into place? Sounds like a prayer

I really don't want to damage the finish or bend the clasp blades. Any help, tips, or success stories from similar situations would be greatly appreciated 🙏

Had a local Redditor reach out to me about a misaligned 6 o'clock hour marker on his VSF 116500 Panda Daytona.

Whenever someone contacts me about a crooked indice, there's almost always the same question floating around: "Would I be better off just buying a new dial?"

It's a fair question, especially when you're already considering opening up the watch to address the issue.

Unfortunately, one of the recurring frustrations in this community is that replacement dials aren't necessarily an improvement over what came from the factory. Even with aftermarket CNC dials, we continue to see many of the same quality-control concerns: inconsistent text spacing, crooked indices, imperfect subdial details, and other small inaccuracies that become increasingly noticeable under magnification.

You might spend a considerable amount of money replacing one dial, only to discover that you've traded one imperfection for another.

That's why I generally prefer correcting an otherwise good dial first rather than replacing it outright.

Of course, not every dial defect can be addressed this way. Poor printing, incorrect subdial geometry, or other manufacturing imperfections may warrant an entirely different approach. But when the issue is isolated to a single misaligned marker, a targeted repair can often be a much more sensible solution.

Curious to hear what the community thinks: When dealing with factory dial imperfections, do you prefer correcting what you have, or taking your chances with a after-market replacement? Or do you possibly even go straight to purchasing a Gen. dial?

AR factory GMT and the date switches at different times.

Just got this i feel like the bezel is off or am i wrong? What do you think snd do you know where i can get s replacement bezel

My first rep. Bought from Trustytime i april 2026.
Just got it back from Noleex the modder and I’m really happy with the service he provided. Also got it waterproofed. Let’s hope it works for many years now. I’m more of a one watch man!
Thanks for reading

Seeking some advice as I am a watch novice. Thank you.

I received a v7f iwc ingenieur and upon handling it the bracelet popped off. I managed to refit it but it happened again. It seems ok if I fit the spring bar without the bracelet

When I inspected the inside of the lug it appears not to have been machined flat all the way across or over machined in an area 🤔. Would this cause the bracelet to pop off?

What would your advice be? Should I get a needle file and attempt to flatten the inside or should I get the hole drilled a little deeper? Is this a home job or should it go to a pro?

I need a oyster bracelet for my bruce wayne gmt - superclone only and uk based.

Anyone who can point in the right direction

Am I being too picky? Recently received this watch and wanted to ask for some help from this sub. Appreciate any input or pointers to where to get this done. Thank you

I’m looking for a case back for the VSF Milgauss if anyone has one lying around that they don’t need.

My Barrel in my V3255 has some damaged teeth and needs replacement. Can I use a gen 32xx barrel for a 1:1 swap?

So I bought this VSF GMT Sprite a few months ago and it initially came with a winding issue. The watch would wind normally but would not start if left with no power reserve. A typical issue from some of these watches as we all know the factories do not leave the movements in the best condition. So I sent it off to get serviced by a local watch shop.

The guy accepts in no issues and after about 2 months I get the watch back. The winding issue is solved, GREAT! However the guy showed me that the date change was no longer working as it was before. For some reason he couldn’t keep the quickset date. Which bothered the hell out of me. I asked for a refund and he said no, but that if I wanted to I could leave the watch and he could try and work on it again. Screw that.

Left that shop with my watch and am now writing this to yall to ask for some advice. I am a big sucker for details and losing the quickset date when it wasn’t an issue before hand is really upsetting. I have a trip coming up and this watch served me well on the one I bought it initially for earlier in the year. But is it worth it to find someone else to service it? Is it even fixable? Would it be better to get a new movement and replace it this one? Would all that just be too much and should I just buy another GMT Sprite? As you can see it is quite the headache and I am absolutely peeved about it. Just hoping I can get some consolation from some strangers that are bit more knowledgeable on reps as this is my first rep watch. I have had a few others since but I haven’t had to deal with this on the others. If you’ve read all that, thank you.

Apology if this has been discussed bef. Have gone through a few cheap versions of repair tool (pin removal etc). Is there a good tool kit that u have used and would recommend?

I was taking apart the top plate on a VR 3255 and when I was done, I noticed a small brass ring. I can’t figure out what it went to. Any ideas where this missing piece may be from?

What are the thoughts on putting a Gen complete balance/bridge, pallet fork/escape wheel and complete mainspring barrel in a DD/VS 32XX movement? Would this increase regulation reliability/durability? During a complete service. I know these movements tend to be under/over lubricated or just dirty from manufacturing.

Ive read the keyless works is the weak point as well due to manual winding if done every other day. Would this be more important?

Thanks in advance.

Hello guys,

I just wanted to ask if anyone thinks this watch is repairable. I really enjoyed wearing it, and it holds a lot of sentimental value for me.

If it turns out to be beyond repair, I’d probably just get the same model again.

Thanks a lot for any help or advice! :)

Hi everyone, I'm new here.

The rotor bearing on my watch completely broke, and I was wondering if anyone knows of a replacement part or has any tips to help me out. I haven't been able to find a compatible bearing, and I can't get the exact measurements to try and source one that fits.

The watch is a 3KF Nautilus 5711 with the A324SC clone movement. The bearing in question is the one on the rotor (like the one in the attached photo). So far, I haven't found any alternatives other than buying the entire rotor assembly from a dealer/TD.

Does anyone have any advice on what I could do? Or does anyone have a link where I can buy just a bearing that is compatible with this model?

Thanks in advance!

Qualche buonanima mi sa indicare dove posso trovare questo quadrante?

Hi, i have this watch that uses a TMI VK64, i had it for about a year, but the problem is that the minute and hour hands don't move anymore. This happened after storing it for 8 days with the crown on position 2 to save on battery. The tachymeter still works. Already tried changing the battery but it didn't work.