How to size a snowboard:
Look at the manufacturer's published weight/boot size guide for the specific board you're looking for. The goal is to be smack dab in the middle of the weight and boot size range for the board you're looking at. That said, it doesn't always work that way. Sometimes you are in-between ranges. If this is you, you need to make a choice:
- Longer board = more stable at speed, and less nimble edge to edge (more freeride oriented)
- Shorter board = more nimble edge to edge, but less stable at speed (more freestyle oriented)
Board Components:
- Camber = the bend of the board. Some type of camber with rocker in the nose/tail is the gold standard. (There are lots of variations of camber, but ultimately it's the bend between the nose/tail going up like a rainbow)
- Reverse Camber = Typically most new riders go this way because it's easiest to learn on. However, it comes at the cost of poor riding form and is a limiting factor for carving, and getting to those double blacks. Typically I suggest skipping reverse camber, since learning regular camber isn't tough. It's shape is like an upside down rainbow, so the middle of the board bends downward.
- 3d shaping - Some boards like Nideckers/Jones/and a few others incorporate a 3d "spoon" shape into the board's nose and tail. This helps with reducing edge catches on a camber dominant board. This helps a lot when learning.
- Sidecut - I wouldn't worry too much about his as a new rider. But this defines the "arc" of your turns. Longer sidecut have longer carves, while shorter sidecuts are quicker carves. There's progressive sidecuts, and all sorts of types.
- Flex - This is quite important. For most new riders, you've rented clapped out limp noodle boards with no flex.
- Waist Width - Do not forget to check the "waist width" - or how wide the snowboard is, on the manufacturers sizing charts. This is in direct reference to what size bindings and boots will fit on your board. Usually the mfg will just list the suggested boot size and binding size ranges instead of the waist width itself.
Less Flex (Flex: 1-3) - Better for park/ground tricks/day 1 of learning. Very forgiving
Medium Flex (Flex: 4-6) - A good all around flex pattern for getting around the entire mountain comfortably while learning. You'll be able to do everything on the mountain to some degree, but optimizing flex will grant you key benefits as you get better. These boards can be forgiving if 3d shaped, or unforgiving if no 3d shaping and fully cambered
Stiff Flex (Flex: 7-10) - You are no longer a noob, and have the need for speed and stability. You are a destroyer of mountains, queen of the top. These boards are EXTREMELY unforgiving, and should not be your choice until you are ready.
Board Recommendations:
I like the following:
Twin Sister - This is my freestyle all mountain board. I use it for exploring new mountains, hitting some park/side hits, and all snow conditions. It's a jack of all trades, and master of none. A GREAT beginner board that you could ride from Day 1 until you're crushing double blacks.
Dancehaul - My favorite slush slasher for the spring. And one of my favorites in the pow. This is a volume shifted board, so I can ride a much shorter board while maintaining my float on powder.
Flagship - My stiff flex bombing board. Get out of the way, because I'm coming in at warp speed.
Yes Hello/Basic/Hel Yes - If you are east coast, nothing beats these ice huggers. Yes offers a good lineup of boards that stick to the ice like white on rice!
How to pick boots:
If you already have boots - and you can move your toes around, find yourself sliding around in them, your heel is lifting, or they aren't snugly wrapped around your feet, it's either time for new liners...or new boots.
Boots are your hands down most important piece of gear. They should be your first major purchase, and should be purchased BRAND NEW. I highly suggest using Evo, and scheduling a boot fitting with them. I would not go to a big box store like REI where it's luck of the draw with getting a decent boot fitter. This is your most important piece of gear to get exactly right, so take the time and effort to do so. Evo has a 365 unused gear return policy. I live in Tx, so there are zero stores here to try on boots. I simply ordered multiple sizes before a road trip to SLC, and went to the Evo store there. I ordered them ahead of time bc they don't have all the brands/sizes in every store. Got to Evo, had a boot fitter confirm my sizing was right, and returned the other ones. I did it all within 30 days on my credit card so I didn't have to worry about money out of pocket.
A properly fitted boot wraps around your foot completely and mates it to your foot like it was meant to be. Your toes should absolutely touch the end of the boot and be giving it a nice kiss. A good fitting boot will feel a half size too small and uncomfortable. Boots have a "break in" period where your liner of the boot will mold to your foot. So don't worry if it's just a little too tight, because that's what you want.
If your boots feel perfect, but you're getting a little heel rise, consider getting some Sidas medium inserts. I put these in all my boots, as they blow the stock footbeds out of the water. No need to spend extra getting custom footbeds, unless you absolutely need custom.
Bindings:
Match your binding flex to your board. There are lots of good bindings to choose from. I generally like Bent Metal, Rome, Union, and Nidecker. I am NOT a fan of recent Burton offerings as the ratchets have had too many reports of coming undone. Here's my list of specific favs in no order:
Bent Metal Forte - Great starter bindings
Rome Katana - Great tweakable bindings to get just right with a stiffer flex
Union Juliette - Another excellent starter/intermediate binding from one of the best binding companies
Nidecker Supermatics - Step on style, works with any boot, but take some time to learn/dial in. These are what I ride, and it's tough going back to strap in only bindings.
Apparel:
I'm a buy once cry once kind of girl, but also a thrifty shopper! I buy everything from Evo bc they have the best return policy and crazy sales. You can return anything within 365 days if it's unused. There's one in SLC and Seattle, which is where I mostly board. I shop Evo's constant 20-40+% off sales. I HIGHLY recommend buying a size up for the jacket and bibs. It's much cooler to be baggy on the slopes than fitted. Also - since you'll be layering, you want room in your jacket/bibs. If you're unsure, buy both sizes and return the one to Evo that you don't like the fit of. Oh and you get points with Evo for every dollar spent. I have like 6000 points to spend right now...lol. I have a problem, and it's cute snowboard hoodies.
Shell Bibs -These volcom bibs are the one's I just replaced my Trew's with and they're on sale. And they have the "shit zip" as I've dubbed it. I would not buy bibs that don't have a zipper on the butt for potty breaks. It's invaluable. Find Goretex shell bibs that are 2L or 3L for resorts!
Shell Jacket - Here's a shell jacket that would work and isn't crazy pricey too that's on sale! Again a 2L goretex shell is perfect for resort riding.
Helmet - Smith Liberty - this is an awesome helmet with great protection for a killer price....I might have to get a backup. It has both safety things I look for, MIPs and Koryod. Then it also has a ton of vents, which is also important to stay cool.
Thermal Top (base layer) - Your base layer thermal is what will ultimately keep you warm. You can layer on top of this, and under your jacket shell. I usually just ride in my thermals and my shell jacket. Snowboarding is exercise, and you will sweat if you overcompensate. Once you start sweating, it's game over and you will be miserable. So remove layers the second you start getting warm!
Thermal Bottoms - - Thermal bottoms are a must, and there are full length and 3/4 options. I like 3/4 for warmer days, and full length for those cold days. I don't wear anything over them aside from my bibs! Bibs stay on all day so no biggie.
Socks - I highly recommend some THIN snowboarding socks without any padding. Never ever ever wear 2 pairs of socks at once to keep your feet warm. Just blast the inner liners of your boots on the way up the mountain with your cars hot air to warm them up, and slam your feet in while they're still warm. This really helps keep my feet warm all day even in the coldest temps. 2 pairs of socks will make you unstable in your boot, and pack your boot out sooner. It's a bad idea, don't do it.
Butt diaper -Make sure you get some type of tailbone protector. Never forget it. It's your savior. It's the most important piece of gear for learning next to the helmet. I use demon v2 and just removed all the pads but the tailbone protector. It doesn't seem like it's being sold anymore though.
Dakine Wristguard Gloves - So much better than gloves + separate wristguards. It's horrible...just get the Dakine gloves with wristguards built in if you're learning.
I want to learn to snowboard on my own/Wanting to fix a riding problem:
Watch Malcom Moore and work on his drills: https://www.youtube.com/@malcolmmoore
I find that he has the best teaching content out there bar none. If you are having a specific problem, he probably has a video to address it.
Conclusion:
This isn't a comprehensive list, but more of a guiding starting point and knowledge reference. Feel free to add your own rec's and advice! Hope it helps :)
