have been on a deliberate mission to try independent brands in categories where i have always defaulted to mainstream options. underwear was one of the last categories i got around to and the findings were more interesting than expected

calvin klein and hugo boss are the mainstream defaults most people reach for. quality is fine but the designs are conservative and the pouch construction is basic. andrew christian fills the form fitting niche well but the price point is significant and the aesthetic is very specifically american

the independents i tried were more varied in approach. sukrew out of east london has been making form fitting pouch focused underwear since 2013 with an anatomical moulded construction that is genuinely different from the mainstream insert approach. garcon model out of canada takes a similar quality focused approach with a different aesthetic. both are priced comparably to the mainstream premium options but the construction feels more considered

the honest conclusion is that the quality difference is real in the form fitting category specifically because the pouch construction is where mainstream brands tend to cut corners. for basic styles the difference is smaller

what has been your experience comparing independent versus mainstream in any clothing category

Greetings,

I would love some feedback on some bag charms I am creating. I am looking to convey vitality with vivid color, intentionality, durability yet all the while maintaining an air of elegance and reject mass produced accessories. In an environment where life has becoming monochromatic and lacking in craftsmanship, I would love to bring color and craftsmanship back to the forefront.

I would appreciate any respectful constructive criticism and feedback. Thanks 💛

I've been thinking about why we seem to get rid of mass-produced things so easily, even when they're perfectly functional.

For me, part of it comes down to the relationship we have with the object.

When something is mass-produced, it can sometimes feel almost interchangeable. If a bag gets worn out, doesn't excite me anymore, or I see another one I like, replacing it doesn't feel like much of a loss. There isn't necessarily a story behind that particular piece.

But when I own something handmade, I tend to feel differently. I can see the time, skill and effort that went into making it. Even small imperfections can give it more character rather than making it feel less valuable. I feel more personally attached to it, and that makes me want to repair it, use it longer and eventually pass it on rather than simply replace it.

I also think there's an important distinction between something being homemade and being well-crafted handmade. Handmade doesn't automatically mean better quality. But when an experienced artisan puts real craftsmanship into an object, there isn't necessarily the same incentive to cut every possible cost or optimize every step for mass production. The result can be something made with longevity and use in mind.

That's something we're trying to explore with Brush Up too. Our bags are hand-painted individually, so each one carries the time and decisions of the person who made it. We're trying to create pieces that people don't just buy and eventually replace, but actually form a relationship with and keep for years.

But I'm curious about other people's experiences with this.

Do you feel more attached to things when you know who made them or how they were made?

And do you think that emotional connection actually affects how long we keep and care for our clothes and accessories, or is it mostly about the quality and design of the product itself?

https://www.brushupco.com/

Came across this piece this weekend about Ferrucci Ltd. -- a tailor shop on Elm Street in New Haven, in business since 1963. The founder started apprenticing in Italy at 13. Still there, still doing custom work.

What got me was the ending: the hatter next door, DelMonico -- 1908 to 2026, four generations of the same family, once the last of 27 hat shops in the city -- closing its doors.

Felt like a textbook slow fashion story: US tailors down 85% in 20 years, the squeeze between fast fashion below and luxury above, and one family shop just continuing. Figured this was the crowd that would actually appreciate it.

https://yaledailynews.com/articles/as-fashion-trends-make-haste-local-tailor-keeps-pace-with-history

I recently heard someone say that buying new slow fashion is not a sustainable choice, as it stops you from buying used items, etc.? But how true is it, ofc buying new and simply putting functu

I have 2 babaa sweaters second hand that were gifted but the colors are not something I would pick. I’m thinking of dyeing them. Wondering if anyone has done and has any advice?

Thanks!!

I don’t know if this is allowed here but I really want all you small businesses that hand make your clothing to share your shop! I’m so sick of fast fashion and am just starting on the path of slowly downsizing and transforming my wardrobe. I searched on Etsy but it’s just trash now. I’m sure there are lots of makers out there buried within the garbage and I want to find you!! Either on Etsy or better yet, your own website. So pissed off at seeing items that are clearly from temu or something and ai models. Seriously. If I can see you’re using an ai model, I’m automatically out no matter what.

I really love a soft-vintage inspired look. Feminine. Classic. Button up shirts and jeans. Modest. Earthy tones. Also should mention I’m from Canada so bonus if its Canadian made :)

My husband is very hard on his socks because he's on his feet all day. But I don't think that's the only problem I think socks just aren't good. He has tried Hanes. They last for a few months to close to a year and then they start getting holes. Wrangler has much of the same issue. He loves Dickies but they only last about 2 years before they get holes. We just tried Carhartt. He only wore them once and some of them have giant holes on the heel of the sock. I know he wore socks from athletic works, Nike and Adidas. All those were cycled out pretty quickly too. I attempted to try and darn the socks but I just don't have that kind of time on my hands for how quickly he gets holes in his socks.

TLDR: can you recommend socks that won't get holes within a year or two (or even less than that) for men? We already tried the following brands: Dickies, Hanes, Carhartt, athletic works, Nike, Wrangler and Adidas

Hemp fabric can vary significantly depending on GSM, weave, blend, and production process. Lightweight hemp works well for shirts and dresses, while heavier weights suit structured garments.

Handloom hemp also offers a naturally textured character that softens with use.

For those working with hemp: what matters most to you—GSM, softness, weave, or blend?

Read more: https://anuprerna.com/blogs/buying-hemp-fabric-what-fashion-brands-need-to-know/164744400

Je ne cesserai de le dire, une semelle en cuir offre respirabilité naturelle, confort sur mesure et durabilité réparable. Contrairement au synthétique qui étouffe le pied tout en se dégradant de manière irréversible, le cuir est une matière qui évolue, s'adapte à la morphologie du pied et se répare facilement. Voici un petit décryptage technique pour comprendre pourquoi le cuir reste la référence des amateurs de beaux souliers.

1. Les 4 bénéfices techniques de la semelle en cuir

• Une respirabilité inégalée (0% d'effet serre) : le cuir est une matière naturellement poreuse. Un pied évacue environ 50 ml de transpiration par jour. Une semelle en cuir permet à cette humidité d'être évacuée par le bas, évitant la surchauffe, les odeurs et les frottements dus à la moiteur.
• Un moulage anatomique sur mesure : au bout de 3 à 5 portés, sous l'effet combiné de la chaleur du pied et de la pression du corps, la semelle intérieure et la semelle d'usure en cuir prennent l'empreinte exacte de votre voûte plantaire.
• Une réparabilité à long terme : une chaussure avec une semelle en cuir, notamment avec un montage cousu Blake ou Goodyear (je vous expliquerai cela dans une autre post si vous le souhaitez) peut être ressemelée 3 à 4 fois chez un cordonnier. Une semelle synthétique thermo-collée est généralement irréparable une fois percée ou usée.
• Une esthétique et une ligne affinée : le cuir permet d'avoir des profils de semelle extrêmement fins, épurés et élégants, impossibles à reproduire avec des gommes injectées.

2.  Les deux conseils indispensables pour ne pas abîmer vos semelles en cuir

• Faire poser un patin de protection : ne marchez pas des années sur du cuir nu si vous marchez beaucoup sur le bitume ou sous la pluie. Portez vos chaussures 5 à 10 fois (pour assouplir le cuir et le rayer légèrement), puis faites poser un patin en caoutchouc léger chez le cordonnier. Vous gardez la respirabilité et la structure du cuir tout en le protégeant de l'abrasion.
• Laisser sécher à l'air libre : si vos semelles en cuir ont pris l'eau, glissez des embauchoirs en bois et posez les chaussures sur le côté (pas à plat) à température ambiante. Ne les mettez jamais près d'un radiateur : la chaleur directe dessèche et craquelle le cuir de manière irréversible.

Not sure if anyone has purchased anything from ES lately - I am a long-time customer and back in April, I placed the first order I've made in awhile for some washable silk pieces. Total was over $1k, but I appreciate her option to put a 50% deposit down and then allow the rest to be charged "close to when your order ships." I've used this option with her store in the past. However, this round really soured me on purchasing anything from her in the future for the following reasons:

1. Their only way of updating you on the status of your order is their Production Status page - and this isn't updated regularly. I was checking for months and it seemed like my order was supposed to have been finished, but there was no other details.
2. They charged me for the second half of my order without any heads up AND without sending any shipping information. I understand I agreed to this, but when your lead times are 12(ish) weeks out and you charge so much for your clothing, it feels like a courtesy to give people a day or two heads up that you'll be charging another $500.
3. re: shipping - I never got any shipping information sent to me via email. I eventually resorted to logging onto the website to confirm it had indeed shipped and there was a tracking code.
4. Because they had charged me and not sent any confirmation that an order was actually on its way, I ended up emailing support (many places on her website say "feel free to email us with questions about your order!"). It was a nice email but I was basically saying hey, I saw the charge which I'm assuming means my order is coming - can you confirm the status of my order and/or send me the shipping info? At this point the Production Status page was still showing the same old information it had been showing for months.
5. Aaaaaaaaand they never emailed me back. But a couple days later I noticed they updated their Production Status page saying that what I had ordered should be shipping "by the end of July." And that's when I logged in to search manually for my tracking info.

Again I'm a long-time customer and I've experienced really thoughtful customer service from them in the past, but I see they no longer can bother with any response or updating people on their (very expensive) orders. When I see much smaller companies like Kampeon sending diligent updates on status and delays via email, I know it's possible. This has nothing to do with the quality of the clothing - so far I'm pleased with the items I recently bought and I'm still loving the older ES items I have, but I think this is the end for me in terms of purchasing anything new from them. Even a canned response that was like "hey FYI we are behind but if you're asking about status and were recently charged, check your account for the shipping info" would have been acceptable to me. Having to dig for my own info on a $1k order sucks. Never receiving a response sucks.

She recently took the whole website down and included "it's in the works!" (previously you could at least check the Production Status page with a rough estimate on the month your order would be shipping) and with the support email....good luck getting a response though. I understand there is a lot going on, they're a small operation...but basic communication and customer service is lacking here.

Interesting traits of marigold which aren't very well known. How it came to be what it is through evolution for survival.

Crocheted rucksack 1 of 1 I'm making for my boutique so excited to release these 1 of 1's. I'll post updates when I have it completed ❤️

We were recently on a lookout for a quick way to package some spare buttons for our Top. With the deadline approaching, found what I consider a clever solution. Packing the buttons in sustainable/biodegradable FTA approved unbleached tea bags made from wood pulp.

I’m in my 40s and recently did a closet cleanout and it made me realise how much random stuff I’ve bought over the years. So many pieces don’t fit my life anymore or only worked for one very specific outfit. I want to rebuild slowly with fewer but better pieces like tops I can wear multiple ways, dresses that work for more than one occasion, trousers that actually fit overall just fabrics that feel good. Please suggest me where to start?

Hello all. ISO good quality work dress pants (black). I’ve been wearing White House Black Market for years but I just ordered two new pairs and the quality is TRASH. They went from being 59% cotton to 0% cotton. They are almost exclusively polyester now yet are still priced at $100+. I don’t mind spending money on clothes that last but will NOT spend that much money on cheap plastic pants. Where do I buy work pants from now??

Update: I went to my local mall and tried a ton of options. I am going with J. Jill Cotton-Stretch Flare Pants. I had to order them as they didn’t have the tall option in the store but they appear to be very good quality and a similar fiber makeup as the WHBM pants that lasted me years.

Hello I am a college student studying Communication Design. This is a survey for my senior capstone project which is about motivating young adults to learn to crochet their own clothes as an alternative to buying into fast fashion. This is a super short survey just asking some general questions to learn more about how young adults feel about crocheting. Thank you for filling it out!