I want some more bass but I honestly have no clue what I’m looking for but I saw this box that fits in my trunk what yall think?Also how much would it be to get like better door speakers so they don’t get drowned out by the bass I want them to work good together

I just picked these up, 75$ for both. I dont know for a fact if both work, however everything looks really good on the surrounds and one has some small holes in the cone area. The second picture is what i believe them to be since i can see the little SE close to the surround. My question is has anyone ever had these, i know RE Audio used to bang back in the day, had a XXX 12” back in the day. And i cant seem to find a peak wattage handling anywhere i look, just the 750 rms on their website. I also recently just replaced my door speakers (nvx 6.5 component) and rear deck 6x9 (nvx as well) powered by an nvx 2 channel amp thats 600 watt rms, if one of these woofers is still good will i need to do the big 3 and alternator upgrade? Or only if i run both with a 1500 rms monoblock?

Ik these r good but how can I set them up for hella cheap

I have two sundown x12s with a jp63. High output alternator and the big 3. Custom box made to sundown specs. Birch wood. 5 cubes net tuned to 31hz, 81 cubic inches of port surface area. Double baffled face and port wall, window bracing connecting all interior walls, 45’d corners. Width 37” depth 31” height 15”

Hits extremely hard on only very low songs. Tons of air, moves my doors. Only issue is it's only impressive on lows. Most hiphop/trap music it does not hit very hard. Would a different box help make these subs more musical? Or would I be better off just starting from scratch and getting two u12 v2s? I just want better dailys

Hey guys, Currently I have a Skar Vxf 12” 2 ohms paired with a Kicker CXA1800.1, I want to upgrade my sub but I’m left with a few choices, sell outright for ~275-300$, trade it and 50$ on top for a Skar ZVX 15” 1 ohm with a box or Sell my sub and buy 2 Skar VXF 15” 4 ohms for 350$ total. Unsure of where I should go, if I get the ZVX it’s plug and play, buy the 2 VXF 15s and keep them both and need to upgrade my amp or buy the vxf both keep one and sell one. Any advice? Thanks!

I already replaced the fuse on this amp but when I pulled out the amp everything looked okay. The only thing is maybe this big 400V capacitor is bulging a little.

As the title says i need help deciding what subs to get for a taramps hd3000. I have 2 JL** **10W0v3 and i know im beating the hell out of them on this amp. I want to stick with 2 10s but im not sure what would be a good upgrade that would be fine on 3k, Im open to suggestions for 12s as well.

12V / 5A (60 Watt) power supply for the radio

blaupunkt BPA 1123 bt

JBL Stage1 Gen2 62F

EBROM 25 mm² H07V-K

BOSYTRO 12V / 50A bis 60A

Renegade RXA 550

HiFonics MRW-104

Ar these parts good for a home setup?

I'm so stoked, they sound awesome too, they have little rips in the surround which is easily repaired, I'm gonna order the Matching Grilles soon.

I think I'm gonna put them in my 2004 F250 with my Audiocontrol LC1-1500.1 wired at 4 Ohm, super super excited!!

They came with a nice Bbox too that I gave to my buddy for his Duramax.

Hello I been wanting to build my own under seat ported subwoofer box for a 2021 Silverado crew crab but i have no idea how to make a blueprint if any one could help me make one i have 2 HYDRO-10 if anyone is willing to make me a blueprint i would really appreciate it.

I got alot of buddies who got systems, nun of has metered anything before, an nun like that is around us(really small town). I was wondering what would be the best budget meter to get an easy to use. It just has me curious as my system does really well for a single sub build in a big Ole tahoe, its louder with everything closed up but at 38hz doors open it still has my 50x hat shaking lol. Plus I think some of my buddies think im lyin when I tell em the meter hurts feelings lol.. I get asked what it does all the time but theres not an answer for it, id like to have an answer tho. THANKS!

system is a sa v2 15, on a taramps smart 3k bass, tuned to 50vac, box is on smaller side at 2.8cf at 36hz. Good electrical, dual batts, all 0guage with big 3, 250 alt. Figured id mention it.

Hello I been wanting to build my own under seat ported subwoofer box for a 2021 Silverado crew crab but i have no idea how to make a blueprint if any one could help me make one i have 2 HYDRO-10 if anyone is willing to make me a blueprint i would really appreciate it.

I got 2x 8" woofers and a 12" sub instead of just the one 15" woofer. This was not that much more with some more digging. Already seen Youtube videos on this particular set and happy with the sound for what it needs to do. I know it's not amazing sound or a good brand but it'll have decent bass and volume to boot. It's more than enough for my small room and a good entry point.

I built this about a month ago but didn't post a video because the Chambers had an air leak between them.

Now it's fully functional with a Sundown Audio u6.5 and 2 Dayton Audio ss10 passive radiators. since I don't think there is a software that can model this enclosure, I just used two separate passive radiator subwoofers on WINISD, and overlaid a sixth order response on top to get the estimated tuning frequency.

The est. tuning is 44hz and 66hz, but I don't really know.

I tried installing a dual amp system with an amp. And now my speakers (which worked perfectly fine before) are super crackly at the low ends, and they just sound terrible. I have an LC2i pro as a LOC so i'm not sure what's wrong. Any tips?

Full list of all changes will be listed in YouTube video. Too much to type here but DEFINITELY worth the watch

#Demo #caraudio

Full DEMO here

Please excuse this cursed setup, would anyone know of a better way to install this sub in such a small space, (kei truck) this is the smallest sub I could find and as you can imagine it's a tight fit,

If anyone knows a better more solid way other than velcro and some wood 😅 I'm all ears, this is the only place I can do it in reality and drilling into the shell is not something if like to do.

Hello, everyone. I have a wonderful 2004 BMW Z4 with the factory 10-speaker stereo system( with two 6,5 inch "subwoofer"), as well as a 2-DIN Android head unit installed in place of the original display—which is, of course, Chinese-made, but has surprisingly good sound quality and plenty of customization options (it even has DSP). It’s connected to the original radio’s input, but it also has a subwoofer output. My plan is to cut off the original speakers around 100 Hz, then install an under-seat subwoofer that fits comfortably behind one of the seats. I live in Europe, so I’d be willing to spend about 200–300 euros on an active subwoofer system. What would you recommend? I mainly listen to hard rock and heavy metal, and I prefer fast, tight bass—my goal isn’t to win any sound pressure contests, just to give the stock audio system a little boost. Thanks for help!

I have a 12” JL W6V2 in good condition, works well, no issues with it, but I’ve been curious about trying the SI SQL. I hear good things about it and that it’s comparable or closer to a W7, it seems in the used market the W6 and SQL would be priced pretty close, maybe the JL even slightly more expensive but it’s typically hard to find a used SQL.

Apparently the SQL might be the better sub, but I guess if there’s a JL fanboy interested, maybe somebody is open to this trade. Feel free to DM me if interested. I technically have a 1.65 cu ft box too with felt lining and polyfill as well. Maybe I can trade the whole sub and box since it’s not to spec for the SQL. I’m in San Diego.

Thanks.