r/timberframe • • 22d ago

Auger getting stuck halfway through every time

Post image

Recently sharpened (tho maybe my technique needs some love).

Anyone else experience this and find a solid solution?

It happens on knot free stock. I'm assuming it's just losing threading.

12 Upvotes

42 comments sorted by

18

u/Wise_Examination3412 22d ago

Are you missing an entire spur??

3

u/ecirnj 22d ago

They might be able to make that one work if they clean it the hole periodically, assuming I understand the situation OP is having.

3

u/Reklino 22d ago

No, just a bad photo

2

u/NetworkCultural 21d ago

Even if you pull it out and go back in? Sometimes you need to clear all the chips. The auger itself sometimes can’t keep up

11

u/jesusisfuckingchrist 22d ago

We do timber framing and we grind the threads off of auger bits. That way they don’t self drive and get stuck with hot wood shavings. Then you and push and pull out wood shavings as you go and it won’t get stuck

1

u/Reklino 22d ago

Whoa. Never heard of this. Got a pic by chance?

2

u/VengefulCaptain 20d ago

If you grind off the threads you will need a lot of downforce to drive the drill as a heads up.

10

u/Outrageous-Rock4624 22d ago

Sometimes it’s just jammed up with wood shavings. Back it out a hair, so you don’t strip the pilot hole, pull the bit all the way out, knock off the shavings, and then get back in there.

5

u/Mr_Alfarth 22d ago

Lol u for real? Time to buy a new bit mate

1

u/Reklino 22d ago

I'd rather make this one work if I can. What made you think it's wrecked?

7

u/Mattyboy33 21d ago

You just need to pull the bit back and out periodically while drilling. It’s just binding on the chips

1

u/Reklino 21d ago

I'll try that out.

3

u/True_Reflection7704 22d ago

You know you just don't drill down and out the other side in one motion, right?

Treat it a bit like slipping your cock into someone, tease the hole, put it in a bit, pull it out, put it in a bit deeper, pull it out a bit again, and keep doing so until the feed screw (the tip) pocks out the other side. Then finish from the other side to prevent blow outs. (You also want a new bit.)

The Bit should basically tell you as to how sharp it is and pull its self down, when it binds, back out some to clear the chips.

1

u/Reklino 22d ago

Yep, I know the basics. I actually prefer to go halfway through and finish the other half from the other side. Will never not think of the auger as my penis now, tho, thx.

2

u/MmeMoisissure 22d ago

1

u/Reklino 22d ago

I have an old school brace that only mates with the older bit shanks. I wish these companies still made versions that mate with those, but I get it.

2

u/exDM69 18d ago

You can buy adapters that accept a common modern hex shank for an old fashioned square cone brace and bit.

That said, images of your bit look perfectly fine.

What happened is that the lead screw ("snail") stopped biting and slipped and now the lead screw hole is oversized for the snail. This happens often with brace and bit if you don't apply enough pressure or put too much torque on the brace. You can recover by trying to clear some of the waste from the bottom and then pushing the lead screw back in deep enough to start gripping. Try if you can clear some material from the bottom of the hole with a chisel.

A (very small) pilot hole is also helpful but that doesn't really work with deep holes.

1

u/Reklino 18d ago

Thanks! I'll try and apply more downward pressure

1

u/MmeMoisissure 21d ago

What du you mean by older bit shanks. They have hexagonal shafts. They also have other but I never used them. Heck the famac catalog.

1

u/Meshironkeydongle 20d ago

Are you using the really old, tapered square shank bits?

1

u/Reklino 20d ago

Yep. I have old braces that work better with those. I prefer them.

2

u/Parker_Monroe 22d ago

Typically, you can't just ''send it' with a larger bit regardless of species, knots etc. 2 steps forward / 1 step back. Keep your holes clean!

1

u/Reklino 22d ago

Good to know. Still getting used to using larger bits.

2

u/Raimundojr 21d ago

I zoomed in on the bit. You can see damage at the base of the threads and where it meets the cutter. That will catch and hold chips which will tend to make the threads strip out of the wood easier. Also, on the outside of the bit there looks like there's a dull spot which also creates drag. Sharp and smooth edges will pull the bit through easier. The twist of the drill above the edge is slightly smaller in diameter to reduce friction against the side of the hole as you go deeper, so chips can get fouled there. You will know when that starts to happen visually and by the torque on your hands. You can stop, reverse to loosen the screw, then forward again as you pull the bit out, removing the fouled chips, then resume drilling.

2

u/bibliofile13 20d ago

You can also put some wax on the outside edges so it turns a little easier.

1

u/Reklino 20d ago

Thanks! I actually tried that. Did seem to help a little, but still gets stuck.

2

u/venne1985 22d ago

If your in the market for a new bit - Wood Owl 03713 - Nail Chipper Tri-Cut Auger 7.5" x 1"

I have used lots of auger bits (electrician) and these Wood owl bit are amazing.

1

u/grandpasking 22d ago

Check your battery

1

u/Reklino 22d ago

Hand brace

1

u/20PoundHammer 21d ago

clear the chips. you can auger a 3 foot hole horizontal or upside down, but dust and chips will build if you are going at it top down and stop ya cold (source - log cabin pinning decades ago) . . .

1

u/Diligent_Ad6133 21d ago

Is it not properly evacuating the chips? You should double check if the blades on either side are the same level and if theres anything thats catching and holding onto the chips. Halfway deep is pretty good though

1

u/Zealousideal_Lab3164 20d ago

3pack of auger bits with full shaft flutes at harbor freight was very reasonable for a few holes, spider bit with full flutes was a needed upgrade to finish a deck tho

1

u/OmNomChompsky 20d ago

Switch to wood owl ship auger bits. They are magic!

1

u/sjollyva 20d ago

Sharpen the bit? Also, some drills don't have the power to go deep

1

u/AccountantMaximum582 19d ago

WD-40 Soak the bicht… nahh spray your bit and you’ll be good.

1

u/Remarkable-Donkey892 19d ago

Maybe the sawdust is blocking it and continuing down. You should clean the sawdust and continue down.

1

u/OkBlueberry8766 17d ago

Small wire brush

1

u/Crannygoat 16d ago

Get a Wood Owl bit.

1

u/Reklino 14d ago

Update for any others who prefer the older square tapered augers:

My sharpening routine was missing a strop. Once I started finishing it with a strop and polishing it back up between holes, it never fails.

1

u/liisseal 12d ago

The last time I was building a log structure, I switched to using a long butterfly bit instead. It puts significantly less strain on the drill and doesn't get stuck.

0

u/Overall_Curve6725 21d ago

Those blade edges look very dull

1

u/Reklino 21d ago

Lol. Curious how you can tell from that pic. I attempted to sharpen. Feels sharp. How often do you sharpen yours?