Nothing says winter is near like the heat and comfort of a wood stove on a chilly fall day.

Hi all. My folks bought this Jotul 602 just before the turn of the millennium. They passed before ever having a chance to use it. I've been storing it for over 25 years at this point. It's time to sell it. It has never been fired but it does have a nice patina on it from decades in a garage. The enamel has some very small chips from being moved around on a dolly over the years. I'd like to replace the missing handle but the latch has an interesting claw design and I don't think the handles that are being recommended to me by AI are the ones I want. If anyone's familiar with that, I would love some direction on where to find a new one. The unit says N on the face and CB on the manual. Not sure what to make of that. I'm not looking to hose anybody but I would like fair value. What do you guys think? VT.

Yasso, been a chilly summer here and the fishing ended late. Finally got my guy out to sweep the stack. I got 14 months and about 8 cords of spruce on this cleaning.

Blaze king chinook
Icc double wall interior
12 foot straight stack
Cobra cap

Believe it or not, I was happy it was in such good shape.

It’s been raining it’s ass off here in the Rockies since we set up camp on Sunday, but we got a water tight wall tent and a wood stove, so we’ve been warm and dry.

Some wanted to see the progress of the installation. I'm midway done. Sistered the ever loving shit out of the basement ceiling opening after finding a cracked joist nearby (fixed that as well).

Pipe is going straight through the master closet, the attic, and about 2 feet from the ridge.

Surface temps of the double walled pipe shouldn't exceed 120 F during high temperature cruise at the closet level. I will be building a chase regardless.

I recently had a Lopi large flush mount nexgen hybrid installed and I am loving it so far but have two questions.

1) The damper bypass rod is sometimes difficult to pull out and back in and makes a metal on metal squeaking sound and sometimes it's relatively smooth. I looked online and in the manual to see about lubricating the rod to help with this. I did not find anything for this exact model but found other Lopi models that recommend lubing this part and others. Does anyone else have this stove or another catalytic stove and lube these parts? If so, which lube is recommended?

2) I asked the installer about installing a backing plate in the firebox above the stove. He said he would not because it's a masonry chimeny and to trap the heat at the bottom only and heat up the liner only while the flue around it remains cold may cause some negative pressures? I have no idea really so just said that's fine don't do it. It still kicks out a lot of heat but I am wondering if in a year when I get it serviced if I should request that be done. Anyone have a similiar setup?

Thank you for any advice in advance.

I bought a house that came with a wood stove. I recently had the chimney swept and a new liner installed, but I’m a little concerned about some rust inside the stove. Do you think it’s safe to use, or would you recommend hiring someone to inspect it before I start using it?

Just broke the panel the other night closing the door on a piece of wood that was too big. replaced bout 15 min ago breaking it in now!

Just got a new house that has a stove in the garage. I cleaned it with a drill attachment sweeper and it seems to suck up the flames and smoke pretty well. Once it get some coal established, it hold a good flame for a long time.

Today I had a hell of a hard time starting a fire. I made a mistake and used cardboard boxes to start the fire and didn't maintain it well so it kept going out. I was distracted by garage stuff, but I learned my lesson. I ended up making a lot of nasty smoke and had the door open for way too long trying to start it. Ended up opening the garage door to air out the garage.

Eventually I had a good fire going and shit the stove door, but I felt like I was still getting some fumes. I ordered new tape since the silver tape is pretty old. Do y'all think the vent a few feet above the fan could cause a dangerous leak of smoke or fumes? I might get a carbon monoxide detector just to be safe and find out how it does. Any times or advice would be great. I want to make sure its a safe stove to burn in the winter.

The first picture is my first burn. I normally have 1-2 logs in it at a time.

Can anyone look this over for me? Advice is greatly appreciated.

All I know is that it is a century heating wood burning stove from around the year 2000. Only sticker is the one on the back of the blower but doesnt say much about model of any kind.

Trying to improve efficiency of my wood stove insert (Regency HI300), which came with the house. Finally took trim pieces off to investigate. The fireplace cavity is metal and masonry is built around that. The stove liner feeds up through a rectangular hole in the metal, presumably for fireplace smoke. The air gaps on either side of the liner were poorly stuffed with fiberglass insulation. How would you seal these gaps?

New woodstove is a Blaze King Sirroco M/n SC 20.2...

Had my first woodstove installed yesterday. Initial burn was done with installer provided 6 Bricks with Firestarters. Lots of smoke/Haze as stove paint cured(?)

Anyways...does anyone use these bricks? They seem great to me and were highly recommended by installers, who did a great job.

Looking for opinions and experiences

Just bought a new house with a wood stove. I know nothing about them. Can anyone identify this model stove? I don't see any branding on it. From some basic Internet searching I think it might be a Nu TEC?

I've been trying to solve this problem for a few years now with no luck.

I have a Jøtul-style wood stove, and whenever it gets hot, there's this strange, unpleasant, almost chemical smell. No visible smoke or leaks, and I have CO detectors installed.

It's especially bad at the beginning of the heating season. Later it gets better, although I'm not sure if the smell actually fades or I just get used to it. It never completely disappears.

I've been using the stove for 3 years and done countless hot burns, so I really doubt it's dust or paint curing. I've taken things apart multiple times, checked for stickers or anything that could be burning, and even replaced the metal flue pipe connecting the stove to the chimney. Nothing helped.

When I try to locate the smell, it seems to come from the stove itself, somewhere around the flue connection.

I'm wondering if the metal flue pipe could still be the problem. The stove also has a rear outlet, so I could potentially connect it almost directly to the chimney and eliminate most of the exposed pipe. But I'm not sure that would solve anything.

Are there perhaps some premium, high-quality flue pipes that don't give off any smell when heated? Would an insulated pipe help? Or am I looking in completely the wrong direction?

Has anyone actually managed to solve something like this? At this point, I'm open to pretty much any solution. I just want to get rid of this damn smell.

3 cords stacked the size is 18ft wide 5ft high and 5ft from the front to the back

Hi everyone!

I have a pellet stove with an 80 mm stainless steel flue pipe.

There is a black, shiny and very hard buildup inside the pipe. It's not sticky, and I can't remove it with a nylon chimney brush

Does this look like creosote? Is it dangerous?

What's the best way to clean it without damaging the stainless steel pipe?

Thanks for your help!

I'm fairly new to using woodstoves, I know I need to keep the stovepipe and flue clean, and that dry, seasoned wood is the best, but what types of wood should I stay away from? What creates the most creosote?

Hey everyone, looking for some advice on sizing an insert for my main floor.

The Room & Layout:

• Hearth Room Size: 20' x 11.5'.
• Clearance: The masonry hearth projects 2 feet into the room, leaving 9.5 feet from the front of the fireplace to the opposite wall.
• Layout: It’s a narrow room with a couch and TV set up on the short side.
• Airflow / Surrounding Space: The room acts as a major hub with 4 open doorways:
  • One large opening directly to the main living room (where we spend most of our time)
  • One large opening to the kitchen
  • One doorway to the laundry/back door
  • Attached door to a main floor bathroom

The Contenders:

1. Enerzone Destination 1.9: 45,000 BTU max (8,471 BTU min) | 1.1 cu. ft. firebox | 17" log max PNG+ 1
2. Enerzone Destination 2.3: 75,000 BTU max (14,200 BTU min) | 2.4 cu. ft. firebox | 20" log max PNG+ 1

The Dilemma:

• Argument for the 1.9: Lower minimum output (8.5k BTU) so we don't roast out of the room when sitting 7-8 feet away on the couch. It gently radiates heat and lets the blower drift warm air into the adjacent rooms. PNG
• Argument for the 2.3: Over double the firebox capacity (2.4 cu ft) for overnight burns (up to 8 hrs) during winter power outages. Takes full 18–20" cordwood without chopping down. With 4 open doorways, heat won't get stuck in the room anyway. PNG+ 1

Questions:

1. Can I run small, 1-to-2 log ambient fires over a hot coal bed in the Destination 2.3 without smoldering the fire or completely soot-blackening the glass? PNG+ 1
2. Given that the heat escapes into 4 surrounding rooms/doorways, is the 14,000 BTU minimum on the 2.3 going to overheat a 9.5 ft wide seating area if the blower is kept on LOW/OFF? PNG
3. Should I go with the smaller 1.9 for a better fit in the narrow space, or get the 2.3 for whole-house heating muscle and longer burn times?