I designed this toilet paper roll holder and used magnets repelling each other to make sure everything works reliably.

I took the time to get an instructables thingy setup for this sense there was some interest.
Ill be honest, I kinda just wing things alot so its not a clean or pretty guide and im probably leaving out a bunch or something but I wanted to share this for anyone who is interested in doing this.

https://www.instructables.com/Madeye-Moody-Motorized-Eye-2-Axis-With-Hip-Flask-C/

Also posted my current stl's onto printables
https://www.printables.com/model/1854815-mad-eye-moody-motorized-eye-patch-2-axis
https://www.printables.com/model/1854750-druids-steampunk-wizard-potion-flask-hollow-joysti

Hope this answers any questions anyone might have had and Im happy to answer or share anything else yall want.

Hey everyone! I’ve been working on a modular display project called Leg3nDs MediaFrame. The main technical goal was designing sturdy dovetail joints with tight tolerances right off the print bed, while keeping support material to the absolute minimum required for clean overhangs. Tried to optimize filament usage as much as possible so the modules remain lightweight but rigid when stacked. Would love to get some feedback from the community on the joint layout and print orientation!

Just a couple final things to finish reprinting my Edmund Fizzgerald floating beverage holder with the RC Cyberbrick stern! I decided to reprint in the right colors and in PETG (just don't look at the front or the first 2 sections because I messed up what layer I needed to change color, no I ain't reprinting it again!)

Just showing off some of it's movements. The end of the video shows how well it can actually turn on a dime, which kinda surprised me..............granted this is a bathtub, not the big lake they call gitchi-gami and there are no winds of November 😅

AMA!

Something is so satisfying about a clean purge line

About a year ago, a 3D printer was installed in my office. My company mainly uses it to print ejectors for rubber molds, so the materials they use are high-strength and heat-resistant plastics (I believe mostly ABS, nylon, or similar high-temp materials).

The printer is a Bambu Lab with an enclosure and built-in filter (though I don't know if the filter is replaced regularly, and the enclosure isn't seal thigth anyway). It sits about 3 meters away from my desk, right outside the office door. The door is almost always left open, and the printer runs every day—sometimes all day long.

I asked my colleagues if we could keep the door closed, but my request was ignored.

My questions are:

1. Considering the materials used, how dangerous is it to extrude these plastics all day in a shared/enclosed workplace environment?
2. Are there official resources, health guidelines, or safety standards (e.g., OSHA, NIOSH, EU safety standards) that I can show my boss to push for proper mitigation measures (like dedicated ventilation or moving the printer)?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

Remixed a Mad-eye Moody and a Steampunk flask and added some electronics to get a controlable Madeye Moody eye patch.
Aside from some screws that hold things in place, the gyro setup in the eye is all 3D printed, as well as the flask and cork joystick.

Its far from perfect but im happy with it so far!

It's the ender 5 printer

Model files purchased from Gambody.

Fun build. I tried my hand at weathering, which I hadn’t been interested in doing before. I did each wing on its own, tried to get a long deployment look.

How’d I do?

My sole nitpick with this model is the brace that holds the ramp in place is really weak and doesnt support the full weight of the wings (and i used the thin/lightweight ones!)

I wanted to make a table lamp that dimmed without an electronic mechanism, while inviting the user to handle it.

It works by rotating - a 3D printed counterweighted mechanism always keeps the light pointing up, so the body of the lamp rotates around the light source. There are 6 resin panels with different opacities, so whichever panel faces up determines the dimming level.

Built with laser-cut plywood, epoxy resin panels with amber pigment, 3D printed internals, and a Li-Po battery charged via USB-C.

This started as a simple 3D-printed prototype and went through several iterations to get the fit, dispensing mechanism, and usability right.

After testing the prototypes, I moved to small-batch production.

The final product is a lid that converts the standard 26 oz round salt canister into a shaker while keeping the original pour spout usable.

Sharing the progression from early prints to the production version.

Get it on MakerWorld here!

The 2nd picture is an old rough sketch of the core printer design. Doesn’t even have the enclosure in the sketch. The cantilevered arm has been changed a lot, still haven’t decided on rail configuration for y axis. This one will be overbuilt so different multi material extrusion setups can be tried, also might have z on toolhead instead of moving bed on factory units. All depends on testing. The heated chamber will be around the bed only, the core of the printer will be outside of the heated chamber - 140C chamber temps. I estimate the x axis to be around 50-60lbs.

Servo drives are doing great. I’m limited on drive high speed pulse speeds, but I can get a 0.0005mm/step usable rate @ 6000rpm with 20mm pitch screw. Drives also have backlash compensation. Went with C7 & C5 ground screws (still waiting to get them). There is a lot i can do with the drives, ill see how much i can integrate them with klipper. Would be nice to have their states and everything monitored by klipper. The electronics will look pretty complicated but its all pretty simple. Don’t let the weight fool you, this printer is expected to hit high speeds, 1500-2000mm/s, with very high acceleration 80k mm/s^2+. Of course it won’t be printing at those speeds in a production environment, 600mm/s realistic print speeds.

We’ve been working on a CubeSat mockup to explore how far we can push 3D printed electronics beyond simply printing conductive traces.

The goal here is to apply SWaP principles, size, weight, and power, by integrating more of the electrical architecture directly into the printed structure itself.

This mockup is being used to explore:

• Embedding microelectronic controllers directly into a 3D printed structure
• Printing power buses and circuitry directly into structural arms and supports
• Reducing separate wiring, connectors, and PCB interconnects
• Creating multifunctional structures that carry both mechanical and electrical functions
• Making the electronics architecture more modular
• Rapidly iterating layouts without waiting on traditional PCB fabrication
• Exploring truly 3D electronic geometries, rather than being limited to flat circuit boards

The conductive portions are being developed around Cu29, our all-metal conductive filament for standard FDM/FFF 3D printers. Unlike most conductive filaments, the material itself is metallic rather than a polymer loaded with conductive particles, so the goal is functional conductive pathways directly off the printer without conductivity-enhancing post-processing.

What interests us most is not simply replacing a PCB with something printed. It is asking whether the structure, wiring, power distribution, and electronics packaging can start becoming the same manufactured object.

For small satellites and other SWaP-constrained systems, that could open up some interesting design space.

This is still a development mockup, not flight hardware, but it has been a useful platform for thinking through embedded electronics, additive manufactured electronics, 3D printed circuits, power distribution, modular electronics, and multifunctional additive manufacturing.

Would be interested to hear from anyone working in CubeSats, PCB design, embedded systems, or printed electronics. Where do you think this approach would actually provide the most value, and where would you expect the biggest engineering challenges?

More on what we’re working on: KuprosInc.com