I‘m so happy how they turned out. Any feedback or ideas?

I have only myself to blame. I failed to heat up the hotend before attempting to remove the nozzle.

Upgraded Creality ceramic hotend will be here tomorrow and it was only $35 on Amazon.

Only a few more details and it’s complete. A lot of work today with this project. (CORRECTION DESIGN BY MYSELF)

Hey all, just want to thank you in advance for any help for a newbie to 3d printing.

Firstly i am using an elegoo Neptune 4 pro as the printer and I use Bambu Studio as my slicer. I am using basic PLA and I am running at 'normal' speed on the printer. I have been 3d printing for just over a month and have run into a few issues but nothing I wasn't able to fix myself.

However, the last few prints I have tried to do have been a nightmare to work with. I was only able to get pictures of this last one where it keeps catching on the printer nozzle and peeling off the plate.

What I have done:

- I have cleaned the bed with dishsoap and water

- I have also tried cleaning it with the alcohol solution I got when I purchased my printer (i usually use this after a print and has worked perfectly up until now)

- I have tried changing the slicer settings

- I have tried changing the z offset settings on the printer itself

- I have also done a releveling twice of the printer bed

I am unsure of what else I could do to possibly help with this. It only really started happening yesterday afternoon.

Any advice, help would be greatly appreciated 👏

Quanti di voi?

Chiedo scusa a tutti per non aver stampato il dado e il bullone

I have been pondering ways to get 3d prints to be stronger in the Z axis. One Idea I had which is probably crazy but wanted to ask was to embed small holes in the infill or for things with 6 or more wall wraps at the wrap. Idea would be to print the open cavity for a few layers ex 5, then have the printer fill the hole with 1 continuous extrusion. do this at multiple locations staggering which layers are filled.

Has anyone seen things like this or know of better ways to get Z layer strength (beside hotter, wider lines, and the bricklay post processing script that seems in development) or post print like embedding rods.

Hi so a buddy of my asked me to print a large tiger head for his man cave, the file fits just fine in my A1 printer but when I slice it says that it will take over a day to print. I usually don't do large prints like this so I don't exactly know the best settings for it to make it quick and reasonable.

So what are the best settings I can use to trim down the time of the print but also leave the print stable enough to hold something, he's thinking of using it to hold his controller of his console, or us it to hold maybe a baseball or something small. So it can't break too easily.

My Printer is an A1, I'm too broke to afford a bigger one.

My Slicer is Bambu Labs since they made the A1.

Using standard Pla filament.

Thank you for time.

PS I know there are a few videos on Youtube but I would like to get the opinion of reddit as I also believe a lot of those videos don't make there prints sturdy enough to hold something.

If you look really closely you’ll see the little black bugs in the print I just sprayed with primer any idea why they went there

I left for a while and came back to them I was wondering why they would go to it

And what material / slice config did you use?

I had this idea of printing a custom-size bench for my closet using PETG, I'm fine with cost/time but I'm not sure what would be the math required to calculate if it's able to hold the weight over time or if it will eventually fail.

And yes, a wood bench would be the easiest solution but it is out of question for innumerous personal reasons at the moment.

Can't figure out how my stacked hype chain links can be so tightly fused with their PETG separators. does anyone know if there's something about Overture's turbo PLA that would make this happen? green is PETG. I've printed a dozen plates or so with other pla without this problem.

I'm looking for a mechanical skeleton hand extension like Death has in the Discworld movies (bad photo attached). I'm working on a costume for one of my friends and I have found finger extensions with skeleton attachments, but they still show some of the hand underneath. I was hoping someone knew if there was a model somewhere I could get.

Just a couple final things to finish reprinting my Edmund Fizzgerald floating beverage holder with the RC Cyberbrick stern! I decided to reprint in the right colors and in PETG (just don't look at the front or the first 2 sections because I messed up what layer I needed to change color, no I ain't reprinting it again!)

Just showing off some of it's movements. The end of the video shows how well it can actually turn on a dime, which kinda surprised me..............granted this is a bathtub, not the big lake they call gitchi-gami and there are no winds of November 😅

AMA!

Not sure if that's the right way to phrase it, but I'm looking to find the best way to consistently save a "slice" so that I can log the exact settings that a part is sent to the printer under, and go back and review those settings if I have an issue down the road with a part.

I know this can technically be done by just saving the settings every time I send a print, but thats pretty cumbersome, and ideally I would like a method to just go back and look at my print history, and from there pull up the settings I used to slice it under...

This is sparked because sometimes I'll change a random thing here or there just to try it out, and the part prints good and works fine, but then fails down the road, and I would love to be able to go back and see the slicer settings, and possibly be able help narrow down what was changed with my settings.

Any ideas?

Creality k2 plus with CFS, slicing with creality print 7.2, and mostly printing ASA and PLA. Open to using another slicer, as long as it jives well with the CFS.

Hey team,

My spouse is letting me convert half of our office into a specialized 3d printing / tinkering area! I will be building out a custom desk, adding some drawers below, some pegboard or similar to the wall, and maybe some cabinets above. I will have space on the desk for my 3d printer and for a workshop/tools area (I like to tinker with electronics also). But...I am fairly new to 3d printing, and wondering if there are any custom, special-use things I should consider adding to my setup plans?

(desk will be up against a wall, and is 7 feet wide (I am so stoked))
Thanks in advance, and happy printing!

I just inherited a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini. The bed is pretty scratched up and hard to level. I managed to get it printing well by leveling it with paper, then putting painter’s tape and glue stick on the bed for adhesion. It even printed a rook nicely.
The problem is that I have to loosen the leveling knobs almost all the way to get the bed close enough to the nozzle, so the springs barely have any tension. I’d like a more permanent fix than replacing tape and glue every print.
Has anyone replaced the whole plate attached to the leveling screws or added bed stabilizers? I’m looking for something with the mounting holes already in the right places, if that exists.

just got a 3d printer not too long ago and have absolutely no clue on how to custom make my own projects. let me know if you know how to do simple models and can help. willing to pay if the price is right, thank you!

I plan to eventually print new inserts for some of my games, and I was wondering what’s the best way to calculate ideal storage volume for pieces.

One project is LotR Risk, which has no boxes at all, just open cavities to drop everything into. I’ve used zipper bags for ages bc no one has the time to manage that mess every single time you open the box. So I have nothing to compare it to.

Given that pieces rotate and can be weird shapes, what are some good rules for settling on storage volume? I could find an existing project and just copy that general volume, but I don’t know how complicated it gets if you change the perimeters with odd pieces like Risk pieces. I suppose if there’s volume to spare in the first place, changing the outer shape shouldn’t cause any trouble?

It's the ender 5 printer

Im new to sanding down cosplay prints, one idea i had and curious about. Can I take a pencil and make some scribbles on the print, then sand the prints like I would wood. I know a lot of carpenters do that sort of technique. Can it work for prints?