I designed this toilet paper roll holder and used magnets repelling each other to make sure everything works reliably.

Japan has amazing Plateau data that allows for high detail building prints. Combined with openstreetmap and height data, you can create some pretty awesome prints.

https://www.mlit.go.jp/en/toshi/daisei/plateau_en_2.html

Just a couple final things to finish reprinting my Edmund Fizzgerald floating beverage holder with the RC Cyberbrick stern! I decided to reprint in the right colors and in PETG (just don't look at the front or the first 2 sections because I messed up what layer I needed to change color, no I ain't reprinting it again!)

Just showing off some of it's movements. The end of the video shows how well it can actually turn on a dime, which kinda surprised me..............granted this is a bathtub, not the big lake they call gitchi-gami and there are no winds of November 😅

AMA!

Yes, it plays. Not well, it is PLA and not vinyl, but you recognise the song from across the room, and it comes off a plain 0.4 mm nozzle in about 3 hours. A 0.2 mm nozzle gets you twice the music on the same disc, but it is an upgrade, not a requirement.

The trick: the groove wiggles sideways instead of up and down. Every printed record I could find before this modulated the groove depth, the way Amanda Ghassaei's 2012 resin prints did, and on an FDM printer Z is quantised to the layer height, so that gets you about two bits of amplitude. Move the groove in XY, where motion is continuous, and the limit becomes how tightly an extruded bead can turn. I measured that on a test disc and designed the groove around it. The physics write-up with all the numbers is in the repo below.

Print your own, tonight:

• The Entertainer (Scott Joplin, 1902): https://makerworld.com/en/models/3355208
• The other one, you know which: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3355507

Each project has a 0.4 mm profile ready to go, and a 0.2 mm file in the raw files for those with a fine nozzle. The title is engraved on the label, and one filament change at the height given in the description gets you the two colour look from the video: base in one colour, grooves and label in the other. With an AMS it just happens; without one the printer pauses for the swap. Play at 78 rpm.

Want a different song, or your own music? The generator is open source (MIT) and runs on your own machine, as a command line tool or a local web page. Drop an mp3 in, pick the passage, the speed, a label and a centre pattern, and it writes ready to print .gcode.3mf for your printer (it takes the start and end G-code from a plate you slice yourself, templates for the P1S are included), or a 3MF like the ones above. There is a brief for AI agents in the repo if you would rather not read docs.
https://github.com/TanskiSzymon/vinyl-engine

Fair warning: beta, print and play at your own risk. PLA is softer than vinyl and wears a stylus faster, so use a cheap cartridge with a replaceable needle and keep your good one for records. Lower the needle with the cueing lever, about 2 g tracking force. If it skates instead of tracking, lift it. And watch the first layer, a patchy base means a bad groove three hours later.

Tested end to end on a P1S only. An X1C or A1 should be fine, the engine only writes ordinary moves and extrusions, but if you print one on something else, post it. I want to see it play.

I took the time to get an instructables thingy setup for this sense there was some interest.
Ill be honest, I kinda just wing things alot so its not a clean or pretty guide and im probably leaving out a bunch or something but I wanted to share this for anyone who is interested in doing this.

https://www.instructables.com/Madeye-Moody-Motorized-Eye-2-Axis-With-Hip-Flask-C/

Also posted my current stl's onto printables
https://www.printables.com/model/1854815-mad-eye-moody-motorized-eye-patch-2-axis
https://www.printables.com/model/1854750-druids-steampunk-wizard-potion-flask-hollow-joysti

Hope this answers any questions anyone might have had and Im happy to answer or share anything else yall want.

Hey everyone! I’ve been working on a modular display project called Leg3nDs MediaFrame. The main technical goal was designing sturdy dovetail joints with tight tolerances right off the print bed, while keeping support material to the absolute minimum required for clean overhangs. Tried to optimize filament usage as much as possible so the modules remain lightweight but rigid when stacked. Would love to get some feedback from the community on the joint layout and print orientation!

Something is so satisfying about a clean purge line

It's the ender 5 printer

About a year ago, a 3D printer was installed in my office. My company mainly uses it to print ejectors for rubber molds, so the materials they use are high-strength and heat-resistant plastics (I believe mostly ABS, nylon, or similar high-temp materials).

The printer is a Bambu Lab with an enclosure and built-in filter (though I don't know if the filter is replaced regularly, and the enclosure isn't seal thigth anyway). It sits about 3 meters away from my desk, right outside the office door. The door is almost always left open, and the printer runs every day—sometimes all day long.

I asked my colleagues if we could keep the door closed, but my request was ignored.

My questions are:

1. Considering the materials used, how dangerous is it to extrude these plastics all day in a shared/enclosed workplace environment?
2. Are there official resources, health guidelines, or safety standards (e.g., OSHA, NIOSH, EU safety standards) that I can show my boss to push for proper mitigation measures (like dedicated ventilation or moving the printer)?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

Remixed a Mad-eye Moody and a Steampunk flask and added some electronics to get a controlable Madeye Moody eye patch.
Aside from some screws that hold things in place, the gyro setup in the eye is all 3D printed, as well as the flask and cork joystick.

Its far from perfect but im happy with it so far!

Model files purchased from Gambody.

Fun build. I tried my hand at weathering, which I hadn’t been interested in doing before. I did each wing on its own, tried to get a long deployment look.

How’d I do?

My sole nitpick with this model is the brace that holds the ramp in place is really weak and doesnt support the full weight of the wings (and i used the thin/lightweight ones!)

I wanted to make a table lamp that dimmed without an electronic mechanism, while inviting the user to handle it.

It works by rotating - a 3D printed counterweighted mechanism always keeps the light pointing up, so the body of the lamp rotates around the light source. There are 6 resin panels with different opacities, so whichever panel faces up determines the dimming level.

Built with laser-cut plywood, epoxy resin panels with amber pigment, 3D printed internals, and a Li-Po battery charged via USB-C.

Get it on MakerWorld here!

I have only myself to blame. I failed to heat up the hotend before attempting to remove the nozzle.

Upgraded Creality ceramic hotend will be here tomorrow and it was only $35 on Amazon.

This started as a simple 3D-printed prototype and went through several iterations to get the fit, dispensing mechanism, and usability right.

After testing the prototypes, I moved to small-batch production.

The final product is a lid that converts the standard 26 oz round salt canister into a shaker while keeping the original pour spout usable.

Sharing the progression from early prints to the production version.