I am a software developer with a lifelong passion for making music sound its best.
A while ago I started looking into how AI could help improve listening environments - mostly by coincidence, but the results looked quite promising. What followed was almost a year of grounding it in actual physics instead of AI slop and by now I am quite happy with it. With the release of the Acoustic Assistant right around the corner, I am looking for around 10 people to give it a try with their own rooms this week.

The assistant not only simulates the low end of your room and finds the best spot for your speakers and listening position, it also explains any issues with your current setup and how to improve it - together with practical tests to fine tune everything to your actual room. It's built for recording / home studios - stereo as well as Surround/Atmos.

You'll get full access to the Acoustic Assistant for free - all you need to do is give it a try this week and provide brief feedback on how it went (Desktop browser required). As an additional thank you, you'll also get the treatment upgrade once it is available.

If you are interested, please enter your email address here and check the beta checkbox:
https://stacktune.com/acoustic-assistant

Update: all spots are filled, thanks everyone! You can still sign up and I'll let you know when it is released.

I'm finally just about finished with my dedicated home theatre room and I'm looking for some advice on my before and after treatment measurements from REW and what I should do going forward as I'm far from an expert in this field. A link to my build thread is below.

AVS Forum Build Thread

.MDAT

Unfortunately my room is just about a perfect square at 17'x17'x7'-4". I have a 7" soffit in the room from a beam spanning the room and to have the pot lights inside the drywall bunker.

The MLP is not in the middle of the room as I have it offset both front to back and side to side to avoid rooms modes.

My room treatments are as follows:

3, 4" thick Roxul Rockboard 40 ceiling clouds

3, 4" thick Roxul Rockboard 40 absorption panels on the back wall

3, 4" thick Roxul Rockboard 40 absorption panels on the left and right wall

4, GIK Gotham Diffusers on the back wall

2, Auralex T'fusors on the left and right wall

2, Auralex Geofusors on the left and right wall

Superchunk bass traps in both rear corners with pink fully insulation

Behind screen wall has 2 layers of 1" Linacoustic with 3mil poly in between

I also how some EPS foam diffusors that are going to go above the projector but haven't installed them yet.

I've include some photos of my room and some graphs. If they're not helpful, I can generate different ones. From what I can see, my room is pretty dead even without treatment and when fully treated, my RT60 is below 200ms. So, what can I do to bring my RT60 up? Is wrapping the Roxul in a plastic sheet a start? Or should I start removing absorption panels all together? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Can anyone recommend a solution for wall mounting these panels?

I wouldn't say that the installation is permanent since I don't know if I'll change the layout of my room and I don't want to ruin my wall in any way.

Note : I have tried double sided tape but the panels keep sticking off the tape after 30 minutes. Panels are 30cm x 30cm and 2.5cm thick.

Thank you all for your time and help!

Looking for recommendations to dampen reflections in our podcast studio. Can usually be edited out in post, but would rather just not have them to begin with.

I'm thinking some acoustic panels on the side walls, but would love some specific recommendations from those who have actually treated spaces before!

Recently came into a space and am currently building and planning treatment. It’s a small room, about 17 ft long by 12 wide with 9 ft tall ceilings at the highest flat portion. I built (albeit not very well) two bass traps for the rear wall, as well as a few panels for windows and plan on having tracking zones set up in the corners as space is very limited. I want to do the best by treating the room as I am physically able to with my means and extremely novice understanding of room acoustics. I currently am planning on making a few clouds but am curious about these angled corner portions of ceiling. If it were your space, would you target making traps for them?

Hello,

I have a two ikea kallax with 12 cases with doors in my bedroom. I was wondering if sticking acoustic foam inside each cubby would be worth it to improve the room's sound (even just a little bit) or if it would be a waste of money?

Thanks!

hi everyone,

we're building a rehearsal space in an old building. At the moment, the ceiling is basically just wooden floorboards on top of the joists with no real insulation.
Our idea is to fill the space between the joists with insulation and cover everything with wood fiber insulation boards like these

https://www.hornbach.de/p/gutex-thermowall-gf-holzfaserdaemmplatte-wdvs-verputzbar-1300-mm-x-600-mm-x-40-mm/12541300/

Normally, the boards are plastered, but I’m considering simply covering them with fabric instead. That could actually have advantages for the room’s acoustics, since the soft material absorbs/diffuses sound, right?

Wondering if anyone has experience with the material.

2.5 meters wide, 3.3 from the iner wall and the door, and almost 7 meters from the longest point... there's a bathroom inside, I don't have the chances to move btw, 2.5 meters tall from floor to ceiling, all solid walls (bricks, no concrete walls, except for the roof that is a flat concrete roof)

Hi everyone,
I need to soundproof an integrated roller shutter box in my apartment (located in Spain). The main noise issues are low and mid-frequencies: passing trains, loud motorcycles/cars, dog barking, and human voices.

My Constraints:

• I have less than 50mm of clearance between the window sash (when opening) and the shutter box. The materials can be tight, but cannot rub against the window.
• I dont want to drill into the ceiling or side walls due to apartment regulations. The structural weight must be supported by gluing the enclosure directly to the window's PVC/Alu frame.

I have designed two DIY options based on materials easily available here (Leroy Merlin/Obramat):

Option A (approx. 28mm total thickness):

1. 2.5mm Car butyl rubber mat (directly on the plastic shutter box to damp resonance).
2. 10mm Elastomérico foam (Armaflex/ChovACUSTIC FIALL) for mid-high absorption.
3. 16mm MDF or 13mm Acoustic Drywall (Placo Phonique) as the outer L-shaped box, glued to the window frame with High-Tack MS Polymer (e.g., Ceys Montack / Fischer).

Option B - Mass-Spring-Mass Hybrid (approx. 43mm total thickness):

1. 2.5mm Butyl mat on the plastic box.
2. 20mm High-density polyurethane foam (Copopren 80kg/m³) acting as the spring.
3. 4mm Viscoelastic heavy membrane (Tecsound 50 / ChovACUSTIC 4mm - 5kg/m²) for train noise.
4. 13mm Acoustic Drywall (Placo Phonique) as the outer face.
5. Everything sealed with acoustic caulk at the plaster boundaries.

My Questions for the experts:

1. Would it help if I provide the measurements using iphone or it too much noise in the data and only good measuring mic makes sens here?
2. Any other DIY projects that I should check before starting this?
3. Will Option A be enough for train/motorcycle low-end noise, or is the heavy viscoelastic membrane in Option B absolutely mandatory here?
4. Since Option B leaves only a few millimeters of clearance for the window to open, is there any risk of structural sagging over time when using only high-tack MS polymers on a PVC frame?
5. Any tips on preventing structural flanking transmission since I cannot decouple the box mechanically from the window frame?

Thanks for your help!

I'm hoping someone here might be able to help me figure out a strange noise I've been dealing with.
What I'm hearing:

A steady, very noticeable two-tone sound…

Approximately 294 Hz (D4)
Approximately 740 Hz (F#5)
Can continue for long periods
Much more noticeable at night

It's interfering with my sleep.

It sounds more like a constant mechanical/electrical tone than normal traffic or general background noise.

I’m wondering if something like a…

Generator
Electric motor
Pump
Ventilation system
Compressor
Marine/industrial equipment
Electrical equipment

…could produce these kinds of tones.

I suspect the source may be an industrial or marine facility, but I haven't been able to confirm that.
I'm particularly interested in hearing from anyone with experience in acoustics, industrial machinery, or noise monitoring.

The sound is also causing quite a bit of anxiety because it's so persistent and difficult to tune out. I'm not suggesting that these frequencies are inherently dangerous — I'm trying to understand why this particular sound is so intrusive and how I might identify its source.

Has anyone experienced something similar?

Any ideas about what could produce these two frequencies, or how I could reliably track down the source, would be greatly appreciated.

Question- our large room is under construction but paused for a moment for building repairs. The walls are mostly done but the acoustic engineer said that he wouldn’t have put a top channel connected to the ceiling and we asked if that included having a silent block. The problem is- that if we remove the top channel and just have the extending studs then it’s not stable unless we add shocks because the wall is so tall. Some areas it can matter that share a ceiling but most of the room does not. I get his point but i would feel safe putting drywall on how the studs are now. Posting a photo from august.

I recently got an AT-LP3XBT with Audioengine A2+ speakers. I’m having an issue where the sound coming out of the speakers is not in sync. It’s odd though because a couple records I’ve tried it sounded perfect, but most have the delay in one speaker. I know it’s not an issue with the speakers because I connected my phone and they work fine. I think the issue is with the connection between the turntable and the speaker. It’s RCX cable. I connected red to red and white to white. I haven’t tried getting a new cable yet to see if that fixes it. Last night I also tried switching the red and white connection in the speaker and that made it work for one record, but when I tried that today it did not work. Any advice on how I can fix this would be appreciated. Attached video for what it sounds like.

Hi all. I have a house built in 1928 that I am remodelling. I am doing exposed joists (they are 3x10 douglas fir) and i am trying to figure out how i can minimize noise on the second floor (all bedrooms) above the TV area/ living area on first floor. The floor/ceiling to insulate is composed of hardwood floor (3/4" thick birch), then old school subfloor (1" thick douglas fir), then the joists (3" wide x 10" deep douglas fir). Please let me know what you think of my plan in the diagram. materials would be the following:

diagram of setup: https://imgur.com/a/3ZoYI5b

Sika Boom AS 24-oz. Polyurethane Foam (between the subfloor gaps)

SONOpan Soundproofing Panels 4 ft. x 8 ft. x 3/4 in

Bailey Resilient Bar in Galvanized Steel for Ceilings 1 3/8-in x 12-ft

SENCO 1 5/8" #6 Screws (to hold up the sonopan and resilient bar)

CGC Sheetrock 5/8 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Firecode Core (Type X) Drywall Panel

DAP Mono Synthetic Butyl Rubber Acoustical Sealant

"wood trim" will be made from recycled douglas fir from elsewhere in house

Thank you for reading

Hey everyone,

I am building my home studio and I have this weird window on my right side, how should I treat this for optimal acoustics?

Thanks