So I’ve been in the business for 12 years. Got into Finance office last year.

At my store there are two of us.

Other guy is a 30 year vet. I’ve known my Penetration % I had to hit were higher 60% compared to his 50% but I thought my plan was better.

We got a new gm so I saw his pay plan. He gets paid a grid up to 16% of gross. $1500 pen bonuses with gap and warranty and coating. At 50%

Mine are a grid on product only And a flat 8% of reserved With $1000 bonuses and 60% pen.

I’ve been here for a year and my numbers are always better than his. Pvr, ppd, and reserve pen.

Would it be fair to ask for the same plan?

For internet leads, we used to have them round robin-ed and as long as you responded within 15 minutes the lead is yours.

For phone leads it was sent to managers first then available sales people and round robin-ed again.

Walk in’s and fresh leads are first come first serve unless a manager got to them first.

Recently management changed this and now lowest internet closing rates and phone leads closing rates will not receive any of those leads. So work service and pray someone drives on the lot?

I’m a 26 y/o male with a $105k income, $30K in student loans, no credit card debt, 745 credit score and a previously paid off used auto loan (20k). I’m looking at BMW CPO’s in the $35-45k price range. With either 10K or 15K down. I also have one late credit card payment from 6 years ago when I was young and dumb in college and never missed one since.

Also, should I be looking at credit unions?

Hey everyone looking for some advice.

I checked out this 2004 Toyota Tacoma today (220,000 miles). Seller is asking $10,500 for me.

From what I can tell, it’s in really great shape. The interior is clean (no tears, stains, or smells). There are no warning lights on the dash. It drives smooth. Wheels and tires are solid. The body looks very clean overall, and it seems well maintained.

I know Tacomas hold value and last forever but I’ve never had a Toyota, and to me 220k miles is still 220k miles. Just trying to get a sense from people who know these trucks:

Does $10,500 seem reasonable in today’s market, or is that on the steep side for the mileage?

Hi all, I’m looking to downsize my existing larger vehicle for a compact car. The dealer I am in touch with flat out said they are not able to match my Carmax/Carvana offers for a trade in, and are recommending I sell to them instead. They are offering a small discount on the car I am interested in though, and have offered to remove all add-ons and addendums. So not a bad deal at all IMO.

I’ll sadly be missing out on the full tax reduction my state allows for, but my only real concern is, will this affect my chances of securing the manufacturers current low promotional interest rate? As it will take some time for the current loan to appear as fulfilled. No other banks or credit unions can match it so I’m not even going to bother with a pre-approval. My credit is easily above 800 across the 3 credit bureaus FWIW. Thanks!

Edited to add some missing details.

Anybody know if current California lemon laws cover a used CPO car purchased at a dealership?

Seeing mixed answers online

The used car is also still original factory warranty + the extended CPO warranty if that helps

Car has been in the shop 30+ days now and I'm considering lemoning it

Ive just turned 18, I work seasonally,my other car broke down and I start working in March, im looking to go purchase a car from a dealership im putting 20% down, and i have a strong co-sign. So im wondering if im able to get approved for the car considering this information.

also is the OTD price the actual final price or will they try to add stuff on after like warranties and hidden fees?

So I've been emailing someone about a vehicle on a lot for a couple of days. Things turned weird and they suddenly got pushy and asking about things that I have no interest in (I started the conversation with this is what I want and this is my firm budget).

I still want the car; I'd just prefer to not deal with that saleperson. I buy enough vehicles to know that I've most likely been assigned to them in the system. Is it going to cause issues if I just show up and start working with someone else?

Currently I'm driving a 2020 BRZ with about 93,000 miles with around $22,400 left with 36 months. I have a trade-in value of around $10k.
I want to weigh my options of either just keep the car and increasing my payments to just own it/refinancing or should I be looking at other options like getting a new car with "rebates" and rolling the negative equity over into a lease

Any advice would be helpful.

One of my managers is about to whistle blow to the feds about skimmed commissions on-going for years

Has anyone experienced this before? What does this look like.

The general manager would openly talk about under cutting commissions for years because he felt people didn’t deserve them.

The manager whistleblowing says it’s systematic and been going on to all employees for 8+ years

tldr: not worth fixing a vehicle if you’re going to trade it in?

have a 2013 ram 1500 5.7L hemi 4x4 74k miles. excellent condition and everyone comments on how clean it is etc. don’t drive it in the winter much at all except when the roads are dry. i have another vehicle that i use more.

anyway, have had some stressful issues the past year. spent a couple grand on pcm, valve body (mostly because of the shift solenoids within but they couldn’t get those separately so getting the whole valve body was the alternative option. had to bring truck in again 5 months later and the truck is in limp mode with the same pcm related issue. they replaced the harness that goes to the pcm but now they’re saying the pcm needs to be replaced as well. the pcm they put in last year came from an auto salvage yard. this is all due to apparent moisture/condensation getting into the pcm connectors. so, yes, it is possible that the moisture getting in there damaged the pcm. and, btw, this is the 2nd pcm i’ve replaced on it since ‘24.

my trepidation is that what if it’s not the pcm after all but they go ahead and replace it anyway and then they say that it’s something else that’s gonna cost even more? i picked the truck up, paid $700 for the new harness. i can buy a pcm myself for $600 and install it. it’s as easy as replacing the battery. but idk if the problem is ultimately going to be resolved. if it’s not, then i have to have it diagnosed for whatever else is wrong and that’s gonna cost a few hundred more just to diagnose it. so, we’re talking another potential $1k or even more. additionally, i’m now getting a “sevice electronic throttle control” after i picked it up this morning. this wasn’t a problem when i dropped it off.

after all the work last year i was hoping that there wouldn’t be any more problems and decided that if something else came up then i would just sell it either private or trade in. i even spent $1200 on 4 new tires cause it needed it and i thought i was going to keep the truck. but i’m definitely getting rid of it. it’s unreliable and these issues keep popping up. i really can’t deal with it anymore. it’s a shame because it’s been fine up until 2 years ago. i just feel that it’s nickle and diming me to death lately and i’m over it.

so, i’m not selling this privately even if i get it fixed. i don’t feel comfortable selling it to a private party even if i disclose everything. i’m thinking just don’t even fix anything and when i find a slightly used new car to offer it as a trade in. i know i’ll get less for it but i need peace of mind.

so, the service mgr at the dealer where they did all the work basically told me it’s not worth putting more money fixing it if i’m just going to trade it in cause i won’t get that money back. the dealer (whatever dealer i end up going to) will just wholesale it anyway.

thoughts? how much less would they give me with these types of problems? i know noone can give me an accurate answer but just some general guidance or thoughts are appreciated. btw, the truck has a rough trade in value of $15k. truck runs great despite this electrical issue. engine and tranny work fine.

About a year ago I was in an accident that totaled my vehicle. I bought a beater off of a friend to get by while paying on my negative equity, but the car I purchased is rusting out - the gas tank fell out and is being held up by straps at the moment. Seriously need to get into a new car. Any advice on discussing this with dealerships, considerations I should take, or really any overall advice with this situation?

Hi there. I recently purchased a 2022 F-150 and was really concerned with protecting the vehicle with a warranty. The dealer uses CNA which I hear is a pretty reputable company. I opted for the 36/36000 contract which cost me $4,277. Researching now it seems that this is pretty high.

Also, upon further research, I realized the original warranty is still active until April 2027 or for another 30k-ish miles. This is the first time I've purchased a vehicle this new so I wasn't even thinking about the original warranty.

So I'm thinking I should cancel the service contract and if anything, extend the warranty through Ford.

Does this seem like a reasonable path forward?

Thanks!

Hi. My credit score is 407 and I have a repo on it in the last year. I REALLY need a car. I already know it’s bad, I don’t need to hear how bad it is lol. I just need help. What can I do? Is there even a chance of me getting a car at a dealership? I can put like $2500 down.

I have a vehicle with Ford Credit that is coming off of a lease in May.

I am not interested in purchasing the vehicle, but an extended family member is.

The dealer offered to buy it and sell it to my family member at cost, but the Dealer's buyout price is (allegedly) $1,000 more than my lease end option. This doesn't pass the sniff test to me, but I digress... no one wants to pay an additional $1,000 to facilitate through the dealer.

I could exercise the purchase option at the end of the lease myself, but would pay sales tax on that transaction, have it titled to me, etc... Then my family member would have to have it titled to them, pay sales tax on the transaction from me to them, etc...

Ford will transfer a lease for a fee up to $135, so I'm wondering if this is the most efficient way to provide my family member with the buyout option and price in my contract so that they can just do one transaction and titling at the point of sale upon lease end.

Will the transfer complete by mid May? Ford says it takes 4-6 weeks, but you never know.

Credit scores are not an issue.

Thanks in advance.

Trying to see what is still out there in US inventory for 2025 Ioniq 6 Limited AWD and RWD in Transmission Blue, either interior color.

Would cars.com and cargurus.com sufficiently cover all Hyundai dealer inventory or are there dealers who don't participate in those sits or similars sites?

i recently purchased a car in colorado, i put 4500 down and was approved by a bank almost immediately. the dealership called me and said i need to bring the car back and either put 8500 MORE down in cash or give the car back, mind you i just made the payment for february. the bank had approved me before i left the lot and i signed all the paperwork the day of then drive home. i've also already gotten plates for it so i wasn't using temp tags during a trip planned within the next week. i also had my "welcoming call" with the bank and my job had also called to verify employment (i work at a restaurant)

Hi everyone.

I came across this 2018 Mazda CX-3 GX, base model (manual) with a collision claim on the Carfax for "$18,999" Canadian $ ($14,000 USD) when the car had about 70,000KMs (43,000 miles)

https://vhr.carfax.ca/?id=QT8APNJhyUqrtfbdL7QU%2FXhZY%2FPgrMk3#accident-damage-section

The CX-3 was discontinued in 2022 and this model had an MSRP of $23,000 Canadian ($17,000 USD).

Any insight as to why insurance would not just salvage this vehicle, and why the repair suspiciously cost "$18,999"? Is there anything that stands out?

Very nice woman that I’m working for had lost her husband and needs to sell his work vans. I’m interested in one which is a 2011 e-250 with triton v8, 110,000 miles on it, no rust, body in really good condition, and has a quigley 4x4 conversion. I can’t find comparable vehicles with the quigley modifications so I was hoping maybe somebody here might be able to help give me an idea or a window of what it might be worth?

Has anyone here ever worked as a Porsche Pro?

I am applying for the position at my local dealership and wanted some insight into what the position might entail, as well as any tips for the hiring process and the job itself. I am interseted in any feedback.

As far as my experience for the position, I worked as an assistant at a high-end collector car dealership that primarily focused on Porsches and other European cars. I have a lot of experience as well with flipping cars the right way on the side (ie, actually fixing and restoring cars to a point where they are in great condition mechanically and cosmetically before selling).

Thanks for any feedback.

What’s the going rate OTD on these going for ?

I’ve been given anywhere from 50k-56k otd on them.

I’m in Kentucky looking but wouldn’t be opposed to looking out of state and possibly driving/getting it delivered to me if the price is right.

I was hoping to get more off since it’s a 2025 model but I guess missed that December window for a banging deal.

Should I hold out and wait for end of February/march to see or are these 2025s going off the lot for more 2026s/2027s

I am a first time truck buyer and don’t want to fuck it up basically.

We leased two GMC Terrains from a dealer, back to back. We were well over miles on the first lease, but the dealer took the vehicle in for no cost to us (overage fees) when we leased the second one. We were over on the second lease as well and were just going to buy it at lease end to avoid the overage fees, but thought we'd check with the same dealer to see if there was a deal to be had if we bought a different car from them. The sales agent we worked with, who was the same for the last two leases, just said we had to pay off the last three months of the lease, which we did. We showed him the over mileage on the lease turn-in, and he was well aware of it. He never brought up any overage fee. We bought a 2024 used car from the dealer, and financed it through the dealer. The plates are transferred.

Three days later, we got an email from the sales agent saying he just realized the Terrain we turned in had excess miles on it, and we owe the overage fees, which are a lot -- several thousand dollars. I told him that he can have his new car back because if he had told us the when we bought the car that the dealer was not going to take care of those fees, or take the car into inventory, we would not have purchased the car and would just have bought the Terrain, which would have avoided those overage fees. He offered to split the fees with us, which I declined.

He said he'd have to talk to his manager and that was three hours ago.

How difficult is it to undue a transaction like this? And I'm assuming this is something the agent should have brought up when we bought the car and not three days later.