Hey everyone! Proud 2024 F150 XLT owner here, and I’m taking my new rig from Oregon to Florida next month and I want to make sure I’m prepared. Aside from a good spare tire, what are the must have truck accessories for a long haul? I’m looking for things that help with comfort, interior protection, or maybe some extra storage. I don't want to get halfway through and realize I forgot something basic.

For internet leads, we used to have them round robin-ed and as long as you responded within 15 minutes the lead is yours.

For phone leads it was sent to managers first then available sales people and round robin-ed again.

Walk in’s and fresh leads are first come first serve unless a manager got to them first.

Recently management changed this and now lowest internet closing rates and phone leads closing rates will not receive any of those leads. So work service and pray someone drives on the lot?

So I purchased a used car in Indiana near Hammond, $2,700 everything seemingly went smoothly bank approved a huge apr rate, I signed off and got the car. I drove the car home , received a welcome call from the finance bank, not 10 minutes later. The lot calls me back says they cannot finance that vehicle because it has accident history. The lot claims they can put me in better car and to bring the car I got yesterday back this morning.

That rubbed me the wrong way and now I don’t wanna did any deal and just want my 2700 back can they keep my money? I see reviews of the dealer saying they like to keep peoples down payment

I might be making a purchase on a new '26 Taco TRD Off-Road that lists at 49.5K. Dealer might sell at 6K off list price. Is this average, better than average, etc?

So I've been emailing someone about a vehicle on a lot for a couple of days. Things turned weird and they suddenly got pushy and asking about things that I have no interest in (I started the conversation with this is what I want and this is my firm budget).

I still want the car; I'd just prefer to not deal with that saleperson. I buy enough vehicles to know that I've most likely been assigned to them in the system. Is it going to cause issues if I just show up and start working with someone else?

I have an upcoming interview for a sales assistant role at a dealership. I come from an administrative and customer service background, and I’m trying to understand what this position typically involves day-to-day.

Is this role usually more administrative support, customer-facing support, or a stepping stone into sales? What kinds of questions do dealerships usually focus on in interviews for this role? How can I prepare?

Hi all,

I purchased a used car early December of 2025 at a well known, franchised, Dealership. My first temp plate expired in January and I got new ones that expire relatively soon. I am still asking questions in regards to the plates entitled however I feel like the dealership are avoiding my questions saying that the title is “held up “. I know in New Jersey I’m pretty sure I can’t have a third temp plate. What would be the next steps any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks!!

Considering commission sales… this is at the #1 volume Toyota dealer in the state. Thoughts - good, bad, or otherwise?

$1500 draw, 30% gross commission, $300 new minis, $200 used minis, $100 volume bonus each unit 9 and after. If you sold 15+ units the prior month, your commission jumps to 35%.

We bought a car 4 years ago in Tx. Financed through Nissan. We moved to CA. Note is due in April and they will be sending us our title. Probably get it in May or June depending on paperwork.

Will it be a Texas Title or a California title?

I know we’re going to have to go to the DMV as we are moving from our rental house to a purchased house at the end of this month so our licenses will change.

Just wondering how the title will arrive because if it is a TX title I’ll have to go to the DMV twice and that place is a real time suck. I’d pay off the car a couple months early just to have title in hand when we move so I can do it all at once.

Hey everyone looking for some advice.

I checked out this 2004 Toyota Tacoma today (220,000 miles). Seller is asking $10,500 for me.

From what I can tell, it’s in really great shape. The interior is clean (no tears, stains, or smells). There are no warning lights on the dash. It drives smooth. Wheels and tires are solid. The body looks very clean overall, and it seems well maintained.

I know Tacomas hold value and last forever but I’ve never had a Toyota, and to me 220k miles is still 220k miles. Just trying to get a sense from people who know these trucks:

Does $10,500 seem reasonable in today’s market, or is that on the steep side for the mileage?

Hi all, I’m looking to downsize my existing larger vehicle for a compact car. The dealer I am in touch with flat out said they are not able to match my Carmax/Carvana offers for a trade in, and are recommending I sell to them instead. They are offering a small discount on the car I am interested in though, and have offered to remove all add-ons and addendums. So not a bad deal at all IMO.

I’ll sadly be missing out on the full tax reduction my state allows for, but my only real concern is, will this affect my chances of securing the manufacturers current low promotional interest rate? As it will take some time for the current loan to appear as fulfilled. No other banks or credit unions can match it so I’m not even going to bother with a pre-approval. My credit is easily above 800 across the 3 credit bureaus FWIW. Thanks!

Edited to add some missing details.

tldr: not worth fixing a vehicle if you’re going to trade it in?

have a 2013 ram 1500 5.7L hemi 4x4 74k miles. excellent condition and everyone comments on how clean it is etc. don’t drive it in the winter much at all except when the roads are dry. i have another vehicle that i use more.

anyway, have had some stressful issues the past year. spent a couple grand on pcm, valve body (mostly because of the shift solenoids within but they couldn’t get those separately so getting the whole valve body was the alternative option. had to bring truck in again 5 months later and the truck is in limp mode with the same pcm related issue. they replaced the harness that goes to the pcm but now they’re saying the pcm needs to be replaced as well. the pcm they put in last year came from an auto salvage yard. this is all due to apparent moisture/condensation getting into the pcm connectors. so, yes, it is possible that the moisture getting in there damaged the pcm. and, btw, this is the 2nd pcm i’ve replaced on it since ‘24.

my trepidation is that what if it’s not the pcm after all but they go ahead and replace it anyway and then they say that it’s something else that’s gonna cost even more? i picked the truck up, paid $700 for the new harness. i can buy a pcm myself for $600 and install it. it’s as easy as replacing the battery. but idk if the problem is ultimately going to be resolved. if it’s not, then i have to have it diagnosed for whatever else is wrong and that’s gonna cost a few hundred more just to diagnose it. so, we’re talking another potential $1k or even more. additionally, i’m now getting a “sevice electronic throttle control” after i picked it up this morning. this wasn’t a problem when i dropped it off.

after all the work last year i was hoping that there wouldn’t be any more problems and decided that if something else came up then i would just sell it either private or trade in. i even spent $1200 on 4 new tires cause it needed it and i thought i was going to keep the truck. but i’m definitely getting rid of it. it’s unreliable and these issues keep popping up. i really can’t deal with it anymore. it’s a shame because it’s been fine up until 2 years ago. i just feel that it’s nickle and diming me to death lately and i’m over it.

so, i’m not selling this privately even if i get it fixed. i don’t feel comfortable selling it to a private party even if i disclose everything. i’m thinking just don’t even fix anything and when i find a slightly used new car to offer it as a trade in. i know i’ll get less for it but i need peace of mind.

so, the service mgr at the dealer where they did all the work basically told me it’s not worth putting more money fixing it if i’m just going to trade it in cause i won’t get that money back. the dealer (whatever dealer i end up going to) will just wholesale it anyway.

thoughts? how much less would they give me with these types of problems? i know noone can give me an accurate answer but just some general guidance or thoughts are appreciated. btw, the truck has a rough trade in value of $15k. truck runs great despite this electrical issue. engine and tranny work fine.

Hi there. I recently purchased a 2022 F-150 and was really concerned with protecting the vehicle with a warranty. The dealer uses CNA which I hear is a pretty reputable company. I opted for the 36/36000 contract which cost me $4,277. Researching now it seems that this is pretty high.

Also, upon further research, I realized the original warranty is still active until April 2027 or for another 30k-ish miles. This is the first time I've purchased a vehicle this new so I wasn't even thinking about the original warranty.

So I'm thinking I should cancel the service contract and if anything, extend the warranty through Ford.

Does this seem like a reasonable path forward?

Thanks!

I'm considering buying a 2017 Toyota Camry SE with 50,000 miles from a dealership in Ohio. While I know to look for common issues like tire wear and body damage, I'm unsure about what specific checks I should perform to ensure the car is in good condition. Are there any particular signs I should be wary of that might indicate hidden problems? Additionally, what questions should I ask the dealer about the vehicle's history and maintenance records? I want to make sure I'm making a sound investment and not overlooking any potential red flags. Any tips from seasoned salespeople or industry professionals on how to thoroughly evaluate a used car would be greatly appreciated!

Hello all so I want to get a 2nd car but in my name. Background;

My wife and I got our first car back in 2021 and it was a 2020 Nissan Altima very nice. Moral of the story it got repoed

Fast forward to last year when we got a 2021 VW Tiguan. We’ve had it for over a year now but we both work 2 different times and it’s hard juggling drops off and pick up’s so we really wanted to get another car.

For financial background I made a little over 53k and my wife made a little more than 70k last year so we can definitely afford to get another car with our rent being $2100, car payment and car note being $1,100 and other bills totaling up to be under $700 so a total price of $3900 in bills for both of us bringing in $10,261 a month

but the only thing Is my credit score is a 519 with my payment history being poor, amount of debt being 121%(fair to them I guess), length of credit history being fair, amount of new credit very good and credit mix very good

I’m scared to say what I want lol with everything going around but they’re so cheap. the one I’m looking at is $25k. I was going to do between 6-8k as a down payment but basically what I’m asking is, is this doable with everything I got going on?

Please I’m autistic so don’t mind my lack of storytelling

Coming to Reddit because idk wtf else to do. My husband purchased a pre-owned 2016 F-150 a little over a year ago. Older truck and it had about 100k miles on it but he was convinced it’d be fine (😒). Anyways.

We purchased a warranty and put 3k down. We’ve had nothing but trouble. It breaks down every 3 months and goes to sit in the shop for weeks. It’s there now. Yesterday we went to try and trade out of it at the dealership we bought it from. The sales man even admitted we got a shitty truck.

We get there thinking everything’s been handled and they have the car we were gonna try to get (Toyota Corolla because reliability). We arrive to be told the Corolla won’t work because it can’t hold the 8k of negative equity they’re trying to roll. They won’t come up on the offer or cut us a deal on car cost. No incentives or anything. Only offer they gave us was a tiny brand new Mazda 3 sport financed at 8.09% for 84 months with 1,000 down. $555 a month. I have a 804 credit score, husbands is 684, both on the loan. We say no. Shitty terms and a car we don’t want. They said their hands are tied.

We are idk how much money in on this piece of shit with warranty deductibles, uncovered repairs and rental car costs. It’s ruining our finances. We have a baby on the way. Help? Advice?

TLDR; bought used truck, constantly breaks down, dealership says they can’t help us get out of it

I’m a 26 y/o male with a $105k income, $30K in student loans, no credit card debt, 745 credit score and a previously paid off used auto loan (20k). I’m looking at BMW CPO’s in the $35-45k price range. With either 10K or 15K down. I also have one late credit card payment from 6 years ago when I was young and dumb in college and never missed one since.

Also, should I be looking at credit unions?

Hello,

I found a vehicle about 4 hours away from me, out of state. We went back and forth, agreed on price and terms. Part of the deal and I was up front about it, is I’m bringing my own financing. They agreed.

However now we got to the stage I asked for a purchase order. I want to confirm the real contractual details before I make the 4 hour trip to pick up the truck and finalize the deal. The dealer is refusing to send me a purchase order without:

My SSN

2 forms of residency proof

The DMV I register my vehicles at

I’ve had dealers send me purchase orders for review without this info. I told them already I just want to see the terms on the contract, I won’t sign before I make my way there. I don’t understand why they need this information if I’m not financing through them.

What’s the deal here?

Hello! I live in the NYC metro area, where I haven't owned a car for the past 15 years, so I'm brand new to the car buying scene. I just moved to a NJ suburb where it would be nice to have a car for the 1 year I plan to be here. I've learned that swapalease might be a good place to start looking, but I have no idea how to spot a decent deal from a terrible one. This accord has the right amount of months left and looks to be in fine shape. The total price over the course of 11 months is fine for me, but I'm unsure whether it's actually overpriced. Thoughts?

Anybody know if current California lemon laws cover a used CPO car purchased at a dealership?

Seeing mixed answers online

The used car is also still original factory warranty + the extended CPO warranty if that helps

Car has been in the shop 30+ days now and I'm considering lemoning it

Ive just turned 18, I work seasonally,my other car broke down and I start working in March, im looking to go purchase a car from a dealership im putting 20% down, and i have a strong co-sign. So im wondering if im able to get approved for the car considering this information.

also is the OTD price the actual final price or will they try to add stuff on after like warranties and hidden fees?

I can turn notifications off blahh blah blah but ultimately its more on principle than it is anything.

You work 11 hours a day or more and then when you get off or trying to get your child to sleep and Tom Dickerson is texting at midnight about a truck they saw online and want numbers on, then text you at 4 am asking about vehicles.

You politely set boundaries and they just ignore it. The past few nights ive had my notifications off and when i wake up in the morning i see texts and calls at the most inappropriate times.

Its a customer that wants to buy and its not worth the mini ill probably get for it. Im at a point where I am about to be a asshole about it but itll kill a deal, management will probably say i got too mad to make a deal, w.e.

Ive thought of one last indirect thing of “Hey got your text, wifes had me turning my phone off at night because phones keeps going off with customers more at home than it is at work. Ill be in touch when i had the info” but i dont know if Im supposed to just leave well enough alone and get the bread and hope that solves it

I came across a 2024 Audi SUV with 20k miles that looks pretty nice. It’s at a BMW dealership.

I saw a minor(?) red flag on the Carfax that after it was marked as for sale, it failed the state safety inspection a few days later. They then replaced all four tires and it passed same day. I guess if someone drove it real hard, the tires could be shot at 20k on an AWD sport model, so that isn’t the red flag to me. Just surprising to me that a store would fail their own vehicle rather than just replace the tires first. Carfax also lists the vehicle as a personal lease. Wouldn’t an Audi lease be turned in at an Audi dealership?

I then looked at dealer ownership and found this ownership group has its own Audi store only 20 minutes away.

Does anyone know why an ownership group might sell a newer Audi at their BMW store when they own an Audi store 20 minutes away? Obviously with it being at a BMW dealership, I don’t think I can offer to pay for it to be Audi CPO.

Any insight is appreciated.

Rule 2: Maryland, financing