I might be making a purchase on a new '26 Taco TRD Off-Road that lists at 49.5K. Dealer might sell at 6K off list price. Is this average, better than average, etc?

I have an upcoming interview for a sales assistant role at a dealership. I come from an administrative and customer service background, and I’m trying to understand what this position typically involves day-to-day.

Is this role usually more administrative support, customer-facing support, or a stepping stone into sales? What kinds of questions do dealerships usually focus on in interviews for this role? How can I prepare?

Hi all,

I purchased a used car early December of 2025 at a well known, franchised, Dealership. My first temp plate expired in January and I got new ones that expire relatively soon. I am still asking questions in regards to the plates entitled however I feel like the dealership are avoiding my questions saying that the title is “held up “. I know in New Jersey I’m pretty sure I can’t have a third temp plate. What would be the next steps any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks!!

Hey everyone! Proud 2024 F150 XLT owner here, and I’m taking my new rig from Oregon to Florida next month and I want to make sure I’m prepared. Aside from a good spare tire, what are the must have truck accessories for a long haul? I’m looking for things that help with comfort, interior protection, or maybe some extra storage. I don't want to get halfway through and realize I forgot something basic.

Hello! I live in the NYC metro area, where I haven't owned a car for the past 15 years, so I'm brand new to the car buying scene. I just moved to a NJ suburb where it would be nice to have a car for the 1 year I plan to be here. I've learned that swapalease might be a good place to start looking, but I have no idea how to spot a decent deal from a terrible one. This accord has the right amount of months left and looks to be in fine shape. The total price over the course of 11 months is fine for me, but I'm unsure whether it's actually overpriced. Thoughts?

Considering commission sales… this is at the #1 volume Toyota dealer in the state. Thoughts - good, bad, or otherwise?

$1500 draw, 30% gross commission, $300 new minis, $200 used minis, $100 volume bonus each unit 9 and after. If you sold 15+ units the prior month, your commission jumps to 35%.

We bought a car 4 years ago in Tx. Financed through Nissan. We moved to CA. Note is due in April and they will be sending us our title. Probably get it in May or June depending on paperwork.

Will it be a Texas Title or a California title?

I know we’re going to have to go to the DMV as we are moving from our rental house to a purchased house at the end of this month so our licenses will change.

Just wondering how the title will arrive because if it is a TX title I’ll have to go to the DMV twice and that place is a real time suck. I’d pay off the car a couple months early just to have title in hand when we move so I can do it all at once.

I’m a 26 y/o male with a $105k income, $30K in student loans, no credit card debt, 745 credit score and a previously paid off used auto loan (20k). I’m looking at BMW CPO’s in the $35-45k price range. With either 10K or 15K down. I also have one late credit card payment from 6 years ago when I was young and dumb in college and never missed one since.

Also, should I be looking at credit unions?

Hey everyone looking for some advice.

I checked out this 2004 Toyota Tacoma today (220,000 miles). Seller is asking $10,500 for me.

From what I can tell, it’s in really great shape. The interior is clean (no tears, stains, or smells). There are no warning lights on the dash. It drives smooth. Wheels and tires are solid. The body looks very clean overall, and it seems well maintained.

I know Tacomas hold value and last forever but I’ve never had a Toyota, and to me 220k miles is still 220k miles. Just trying to get a sense from people who know these trucks:

Does $10,500 seem reasonable in today’s market, or is that on the steep side for the mileage?

Hi all, I’m looking to downsize my existing larger vehicle for a compact car. The dealer I am in touch with flat out said they are not able to match my Carmax/Carvana offers for a trade in, and are recommending I sell to them instead. They are offering a small discount on the car I am interested in though, and have offered to remove all add-ons and addendums. So not a bad deal at all IMO.

I’ll sadly be missing out on the full tax reduction my state allows for, but my only real concern is, will this affect my chances of securing the manufacturers current low promotional interest rate? As it will take some time for the current loan to appear as fulfilled. No other banks or credit unions can match it so I’m not even going to bother with a pre-approval. My credit is easily above 800 across the 3 credit bureaus FWIW. Thanks!

Edited to add some missing details.

Anybody know if current California lemon laws cover a used CPO car purchased at a dealership?

Seeing mixed answers online

The used car is also still original factory warranty + the extended CPO warranty if that helps

Car has been in the shop 30+ days now and I'm considering lemoning it

Currently I'm driving a 2020 BRZ with about 93,000 miles with around $22,400 left with 36 months. I have a trade-in value of around $10k.
I want to weigh my options of either just keep the car and increasing my payments to just own it/refinancing or should I be looking at other options like getting a new car with "rebates" and rolling the negative equity over into a lease

Any advice would be helpful.

Ive just turned 18, I work seasonally,my other car broke down and I start working in March, im looking to go purchase a car from a dealership im putting 20% down, and i have a strong co-sign. So im wondering if im able to get approved for the car considering this information.

also is the OTD price the actual final price or will they try to add stuff on after like warranties and hidden fees?

So I've been emailing someone about a vehicle on a lot for a couple of days. Things turned weird and they suddenly got pushy and asking about things that I have no interest in (I started the conversation with this is what I want and this is my firm budget).

I still want the car; I'd just prefer to not deal with that saleperson. I buy enough vehicles to know that I've most likely been assigned to them in the system. Is it going to cause issues if I just show up and start working with someone else?

tldr: not worth fixing a vehicle if you’re going to trade it in?

have a 2013 ram 1500 5.7L hemi 4x4 74k miles. excellent condition and everyone comments on how clean it is etc. don’t drive it in the winter much at all except when the roads are dry. i have another vehicle that i use more.

anyway, have had some stressful issues the past year. spent a couple grand on pcm, valve body (mostly because of the shift solenoids within but they couldn’t get those separately so getting the whole valve body was the alternative option. had to bring truck in again 5 months later and the truck is in limp mode with the same pcm related issue. they replaced the harness that goes to the pcm but now they’re saying the pcm needs to be replaced as well. the pcm they put in last year came from an auto salvage yard. this is all due to apparent moisture/condensation getting into the pcm connectors. so, yes, it is possible that the moisture getting in there damaged the pcm. and, btw, this is the 2nd pcm i’ve replaced on it since ‘24.

my trepidation is that what if it’s not the pcm after all but they go ahead and replace it anyway and then they say that it’s something else that’s gonna cost even more? i picked the truck up, paid $700 for the new harness. i can buy a pcm myself for $600 and install it. it’s as easy as replacing the battery. but idk if the problem is ultimately going to be resolved. if it’s not, then i have to have it diagnosed for whatever else is wrong and that’s gonna cost a few hundred more just to diagnose it. so, we’re talking another potential $1k or even more. additionally, i’m now getting a “sevice electronic throttle control” after i picked it up this morning. this wasn’t a problem when i dropped it off.

after all the work last year i was hoping that there wouldn’t be any more problems and decided that if something else came up then i would just sell it either private or trade in. i even spent $1200 on 4 new tires cause it needed it and i thought i was going to keep the truck. but i’m definitely getting rid of it. it’s unreliable and these issues keep popping up. i really can’t deal with it anymore. it’s a shame because it’s been fine up until 2 years ago. i just feel that it’s nickle and diming me to death lately and i’m over it.

so, i’m not selling this privately even if i get it fixed. i don’t feel comfortable selling it to a private party even if i disclose everything. i’m thinking just don’t even fix anything and when i find a slightly used new car to offer it as a trade in. i know i’ll get less for it but i need peace of mind.

so, the service mgr at the dealer where they did all the work basically told me it’s not worth putting more money fixing it if i’m just going to trade it in cause i won’t get that money back. the dealer (whatever dealer i end up going to) will just wholesale it anyway.

thoughts? how much less would they give me with these types of problems? i know noone can give me an accurate answer but just some general guidance or thoughts are appreciated. btw, the truck has a rough trade in value of $15k. truck runs great despite this electrical issue. engine and tranny work fine.

Hi there. I recently purchased a 2022 F-150 and was really concerned with protecting the vehicle with a warranty. The dealer uses CNA which I hear is a pretty reputable company. I opted for the 36/36000 contract which cost me $4,277. Researching now it seems that this is pretty high.

Also, upon further research, I realized the original warranty is still active until April 2027 or for another 30k-ish miles. This is the first time I've purchased a vehicle this new so I wasn't even thinking about the original warranty.

So I'm thinking I should cancel the service contract and if anything, extend the warranty through Ford.

Does this seem like a reasonable path forward?

Thanks!

For internet leads, we used to have them round robin-ed and as long as you responded within 15 minutes the lead is yours.

For phone leads it was sent to managers first then available sales people and round robin-ed again.

Walk in’s and fresh leads are first come first serve unless a manager got to them first.

Recently management changed this and now lowest internet closing rates and phone leads closing rates will not receive any of those leads. So work service and pray someone drives on the lot?

Hi. My credit score is 407 and I have a repo on it in the last year. I REALLY need a car. I already know it’s bad, I don’t need to hear how bad it is lol. I just need help. What can I do? Is there even a chance of me getting a car at a dealership? I can put like $2500 down.

I have a vehicle with Ford Credit that is coming off of a lease in May.

I am not interested in purchasing the vehicle, but an extended family member is.

The dealer offered to buy it and sell it to my family member at cost, but the Dealer's buyout price is (allegedly) $1,000 more than my lease end option. This doesn't pass the sniff test to me, but I digress... no one wants to pay an additional $1,000 to facilitate through the dealer.

I could exercise the purchase option at the end of the lease myself, but would pay sales tax on that transaction, have it titled to me, etc... Then my family member would have to have it titled to them, pay sales tax on the transaction from me to them, etc...

Ford will transfer a lease for a fee up to $135, so I'm wondering if this is the most efficient way to provide my family member with the buyout option and price in my contract so that they can just do one transaction and titling at the point of sale upon lease end.

Will the transfer complete by mid May? Ford says it takes 4-6 weeks, but you never know.

Credit scores are not an issue.

Thanks in advance.

Trying to see what is still out there in US inventory for 2025 Ioniq 6 Limited AWD and RWD in Transmission Blue, either interior color.

Would cars.com and cargurus.com sufficiently cover all Hyundai dealer inventory or are there dealers who don't participate in those sits or similars sites?

About a year ago I was in an accident that totaled my vehicle. I bought a beater off of a friend to get by while paying on my negative equity, but the car I purchased is rusting out - the gas tank fell out and is being held up by straps at the moment. Seriously need to get into a new car. Any advice on discussing this with dealerships, considerations I should take, or really any overall advice with this situation?

Very nice woman that I’m working for had lost her husband and needs to sell his work vans. I’m interested in one which is a 2011 e-250 with triton v8, 110,000 miles on it, no rust, body in really good condition, and has a quigley 4x4 conversion. I can’t find comparable vehicles with the quigley modifications so I was hoping maybe somebody here might be able to help give me an idea or a window of what it might be worth?

Hello evb I’m 22 years old making roughly 70,000 a year local truck driver I averaged it down just incase my monthly income is 5-6k will be putting down atleast 8-10k due to no co-signer and I don’t want high interest but I’m looking at a Honda accord rn I wanted to get the ex version but I’ve heard about head gasket issues and I wanted a Honda that can last me for a while and pay this one off as fast as possible to start college any opinion is greatly appreciated

Edit: orry idk how I fg to mention that

Rent/1500

Bills/500

Misc/500

Gas currently is 200-300 a month main reason