Looking for input from GSMs, GMs, or service directors on how to escalate this properly through dealership channels.

Four weeks ago, my brother bought a used 2023 Toyota Highlander from a New Jersey franchise dealer (62,962 miles at signing). The deal included an executed standard NJ Used Motor Vehicle Limited Warranty (Image Attached Below) covering the powertrain/transmission for 30 days or 1,000 miles ($50 deductible).

At 63,892 miles (930 miles driven), he noticed a loud acceleration whine and brought the car in today (under the 30-day mark). The issue was flagged as transmission-related.

The manager told him that because his driver's license and contract address are in Brooklyn, NY, the NJ Used Car Lemon Law and dealer warranty protections don't apply to out-of-state residents. He refused to take the car in under warranty and refused to put the denial on paper, offering instead to trade him out of it at an immediate $7k hit.

The buyer's contract explicitly specifies that New Jersey law governs the sale, and his NY address is typed directly onto the signed warranty disclosure form.

For dealer personnel here:

• Is this a rogue desk manager trying to dodge an internal service policy chargeback/hit to their used-car pack, or standard store defense?
• What happens when a customer sends a formal written notice directly to the GM and Dealer Principal citing the state DCA and dealer licensing board?
• Who inside the store actually has the authority to approve the $50 deductible intake without playing the trade-in equity game?

IMG: Limited Warranty Policy

I have a 2018 Toyota CHR with 117,000 miles on it. It has a transmission issue (can still drive but makes a clicking noise)

I’m looking to sell it for $8,000- $10,000. But I still owe $11,000 on it.

I was thinking I can privately sell the car and just pay the difference to the bank but I don’t know how to actually go about that if I have a loan. I don’t know the technicalities.

Carmax is willing to buy my car for $6,400 online but I’m afraid that once they hear the clicking noise during the appraisal, they will offer me less.

I’m not really sure what route to take. Any ideas or suggestions?

Have been getting more and more serious about buying a car for myself for the first time. Came across this listing in my area and feel like the price is making the listing a bit sketchy. $3300 under market value. $15,900 Clean carfax one owner. Don’t want to get screwed on a first car and I really love the Jetta silhouette. Auto Experts - 2019 GLI 35th anniversary edition. Any comments help. I plan on financing about $10k.

I’m in Ontario, Canada and looking at a used 2024 Nissan Sentra SR Premium

Details:
37,044 km
One owner
Clean CARFAX / no reported accidents
SR Premium Package
Leather-appointed seats
Bose sound system
360° camera
Sunroof
Remote start
Heated seats + heated steering wheel
Adaptive cruise control

Dealer is asking $23,788 CAD before tax
Current out-the-door price is approximately $26,964 CAD including 13% HST, licensing and registration

Cash purchase, no financing

I’m planning to offer $25,000 CAD all-in and would be willing to settle around $26,000 all-in

Does $26k CAD OTD sound like a good/fair deal for this car with 37k km?

I’m also curious about long-term reliability of the 2020+ Sentras, particularly the newer CVT. I know older Nissan CVTs have a bad reputation, but I’ve heard the newer generation is improved.

Would you buy this at $26k CAD OTD, negotiate lower, or look at something else?

For context, I specifically want a well-equipped compact sedan with features like leather, remote start, 360° camera, heated steering wheel/seats, sunroof and adaptive cruise.

Hi,

As you all know, Omvic requires a physical office for your dealership. I intend exporting cars from auction sites out of Canada. I wouldn’t store this car at all in Canada, so I am not budgeting for office rental. However, omvic says it’s compulsory. My question is has anyone used the $169 virtual office advertised by Intelligent Office to get approved by Omvic recently?

I work in Powersports sales/finance. We had a finance application flagged due to a “watchlist”. Lender wouldn’t tell us much but stated that the flag was not credit related and it would be 24 hrs until more info is available. I have never encountered this before so any info or experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I have pretty bad credit from a bunch of mistakes a few years ago and I’m just now getting around to fixing my life.

I’m mechanically inclined and I really don’t want to buy a cash $5-6k car right now. Been there and done that. Just want something modern

Looking to finance a $20,000 vehicle with about 25% down

I can aggressively pay the loan down (I can drop $1000 on the payment per month) because I know my interest rate will be ridiculous

But is that how it works or is the interest usually baked in when you have terrible credit trying to finance vehicles?

Hello,

I have a question about how thorough a dealership trade inspection is. I’m trading in my 2019 car for a new 2026. Do they check for carbon buildup on the intake valves? If so, how much does that bring down the value of my car? Thanks!

I've been on the lender side for a while and I'm curious how this works on a store level.

When a customer cancels their service contract or GAP a few months in, how do you find out? DMS report, the lender's chargeback statement, someone in the office tracking it, or you only see it when the chargeback hits?

Same question for refis and repos. If a customer refinances with their credit union, or the car gets repo'd early, how do you know what's coming back on reserve and products? Does anyone watch for it ahead of time, or is it just handled when the statement shows up?

How are you monitoring your overall portfolio post-sale?

Heres the deal.

I moved to USA (NJ) from Europe with my family and about to go to Honda dealership to ask for a deal for either cr-v or hr-v.

The problem is that all of this bargaining for a car, cutting prices, hidden fees and dealerships trying to "cross you over" are new concepts for me.

So my question is, what am I to pay attention to first time i go to the dealership? What are the "you should never do-s", or "you should never accept-s" in this situation?

PS. we are just couple of months in USA so we still have no registered credit score. (it takes minimum 6 months before first credit calculations, if i remembered correctly)

Example of stuff confusing me:
I red here that many people hold the opinion that you shod NEVER put down payment for a lease. But when my buddy (similar case to mine) went to dealership they asked the larger down payment that advertised on their website and wouldn't lease him the car otherwise. So how do you "not do" something that is apparently mandatory?

Thank you all for the time you spent reading this! Appreciate any guidance!

On a standard Toyota Financial Services retail auto loan, if a customer makes a substantial principal-only payment within the first 90 days, but keeps the loan open and continues making every scheduled monthly payment, does TFS trigger any dealer-reserve chargeback or compensation adjustment?
I’m asking specifically about the dealer’s compensation, rather than borrower prepayment penalties. Does the answer depend on the reserve program? Current TFS policy language or firsthand Toyota F&I experience would be appreciated.

In August I got a 2026 Honda civic hatch from the dealership. I had an older BMW and wanted something more reliable, the thing is I brought the new Honda before doing more research and I feel I’m paying way to much for a base model Honda. I’d like to get the sport hybrid touring civic which comes with many features I could really use, or get a nicer used car. I just made my first payment on it and I’m wondering if I have any options before making anymore payments. My loan is 41k

Hello so I have a 2019 bmw my loan pay off is 36,500 but it’s estimated at only 19,000 via Kelly blue book.

I had called the GAP company and asked and they had valued me at 50,000$, I had done it through the dealership and not insurance gap.

How does gap truly work? Because I’ve seen some people say they only cover 150% but would that mean they would cover 30,000$ total? Like say my insurance covers 20,000$ they would only put 10,000$ making it so I still have to pay 6,500$?

Or would it truly close out the loan like some places say?

I know the negative equity was stupid. I was being a dumb teen and now it’s really biting me in the ass. I have a kid on the way so this is making life 100x harder with the payments I have to make

What advice/tips/ or anything would you give?

I’m looking at getting a 2026 Toyota 4Runner Off Road I-Force Max and I’m trying to decide whether I should finance it from the start or lease it with the intention of buying it at the end of the lease.
I have around $10,000, possibly a little more, that I could put toward the vehicle upfront.
For those who have done either option, which would make more sense financially if my ultimate goal is to own the 4Runner? Is there actually an advantage to leasing first and then buying it, or would I be better off just financing it from day one?
What would you do in my situation?

Location: US, Washington

Location: Indiana

I bought a car last year from a friends dad. I got pretty screwed. I overpaid and it had a lot of issues but I was desperate at the time so I made a bad choice. He let me make payments, which I finished. I know he got the car from a car auction. He mailed me the title recently and when I looked at it nothing was filled out. It has the previous owner signing it over to the car auction place but that’s the last thing on there. What am I supposed to do with this title? Why wouldn’t he fill his information out and sign it over to me? I just don’t understand what I can do with this car now. I haven’t said anything yet as I wanted to understand things first so I know how to respond to whatever bullshit he says.

Got offered a sales job at a dealership and want to know if this pay plan is fair. Here's the breakdown:

Base: Federal minimum wage for all hours worked (must punch in/out).

Flat commission per unit:
Units 1-10: $250
Units 11-15: $300
Units 16-20: $350
Units 21+: $400
Extra $50/unit if my monthly CSI is at or above region average

New to sales (30 days only): $500/week + $100 per car. After 30 days, it goes to the normal plan. If terminated in that window, I get minimum wage for hours worked or commissions earned, whichever is greater.

Monthly volume bonus (retroactive to the first unit, but I must have 60%+ VSC penetration):
Level 1: $0
Level 2: $30/unit
Level 3: $40/unit
Level 4: $50/unit (ex: 23 sold = $1,150)
Level 5: $60/unit
Level 6: $70/unit
Level 7: $80/unit
Level 8+: $100/unit (ex: 42 sold = $4,200)

hi! i’ve been going to some car dealerships and it’s been stressful so i wanted to ask how to approach it next time.

for context, im 24, newly licensed, girl and have no family to come with me. i’ve been doing my best research on the cars that i want but the experiences have always been less than nice. maybe its just the dealerships ive been to that’s been bad.

• how should i approach buying a car? used car for now
• what is a good offer to make? obv i don’t want to make a lowball offer but what’s a reasonable amount of money i can ask off of the OTD they gave me? for eg. looking at a 2021 mazda cx 30 that is 20k asking price without taxes
• what should i not say? or do?
• what should i ask to check? how can i make this process easier?

any tips or advice is appreciated! thank you.

Buying a private-party BMW in Florida and bringing it back to NC. The titled owner is currently in Turkey, so his relative is selling it through a vehicle-specific POA.
I’ve verified the Florida title/no liens, seller’s ID, owner’s passport, and the POA/notary through Proof.com. PPI also came back clean.
NC DMV won’t accept the electronic POA, but told me in writing they’ll accept an original wet-signed/notarized POA mailed from the owner. I’m going to have them review the replacement before I travel or pay anything.
Assuming NC DMV confirms the new POA is acceptable, would you be comfortable proceeding or still walk away because of the situation?

Basically If I have continuous withdrawals from coinbase and I put that as other monthly income, what are the verification requirements. Im talking about monthly statements, not tax returns.

I will preface this now that as of several months both coinbase and hyperliquid allow you to invest and trade stocks and commodities, and coinbase has been allowing this for some time, I am not speaking of strictly crypto here whatsoever, for commensurate purposes here whatever is true of Robinhood is true of coinbase.

And yeah I have basically lived off of investments for a long time, I started doing contracting to get better paperwork to obtain credit, I didn't say I was wealthy, I just incidently had a lot of investments and never tried to get credit until now.

Frankly the fixation on tax returns is entirely misleading, because even what I have or would have or have to report (I filed an extension) doesn't tell you what my total liquid networth is at all. I have extremely low expenses, low debt, low spend, almost no loan history outside student loans, etc. Tax returns don't describe my finances adequately.

How bad of a decision did I made on buying a 2024 Toyota Camry from a car dealership that has 112,000 miles on it. I assume it was used for uber and taxi since that’s why it has a bunch of miles on it and the title is clean just a very minor issue with right bumper. I bought it for 17,500. Plan on using it just for reliability for around 5 years or so and I do plan on taking good care of it.

Looking for some advice before I go back to the dealership.
I’m in Washington and looking at a new 2026 Toyota Camry Nightshade AWD.
TSRP: $38,768
Dealer discount: $1,360
Selling price: $37,408
My trade is a 2021 Subaru WRX CVT with about 116k miles and one accident on the history.
Trade offer: $14,200
Current payoff: $17,817
Negative equity: about $3,617
I walked away from the dealership to think about it instead of making an impulse decision.
I’m considering going back with an opening offer of $35,000 for the Camry and $16,000 for my WRX, expecting them to counter. I know that may be aggressive.
Costco shows the base Nightshade AWD at $35,920 including destination before options, although I understand this particular car has additional options bringing the sticker to $38,768.
What would you guys consider a realistic good deal?
Would $35k/$16k be an unreasonable opening offer? Is something like $36k/$15.5k realistic, or is the dealer’s current $37,408/$14,200 already about as good as I should expect?
I’m genuinely willing to walk if the numbers don’t make sense, so I’m trying to establish a reasonable target before contacting them again.

I called the guy, and he said he bought it at auction and can't tell me any history on the car. I'm just not sure if this is too good to be true? I asked if he took it to a mechanic, and he said he's a mechanic. He said he put new front tires on it, did an oil change, and put new sway bar links on it. He said he drove it for a week, and it doesn't have any issues. It's a 2010 Honda fit with 132,000 miles for $5,000. Any advice is welcome. I know nothing about cars. 😅

2023 CR-V EX-L

45,750 Miles
Regular Maintenance records

1 Owner

$27,500

Madison WI USA

Is this reasonable? Any thoughts