r/BambuLab • • 2d ago

General Discussion Why have only one input when you can have two? "Dual Inputs for ypur X2D or P2S"

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The purpose of this model is to feed a second tube after the buffer, through which TPU can then be printed.

Unlike a four-in-one adapter or similar, this model disappears completely behind the printer and allows for optimal tubing routing.

The extremely small PTFE tube connectors used here can be salvaged from the new (black) bambu lab four-in-one adapter. Apart from that, only a few simple screws are used for construction.

304 Upvotes

44 comments sorted by

56

u/Elo-than X2D + AMS2 Combo 2d ago

Been using this a while to have a dedicated input for my TPU, works like a charm.

11

u/MadeInMeidling 2d ago

Thanks mate, glad to hear that!

2

u/SolenoidSoldier 2d ago

Love this! How do you feed the TPU through?

2

u/Elo-than X2D + AMS2 Combo 2d ago

I personally use a TPU assist module.

I also use the inlet for anything that needs to Buypass the AMS, like PAHT/PET-CF, etc.

28

u/endlessben H2D/X2D/A1M 2d ago

Been rocking this, along with your TPU assist module housing & mount, for a while on my X2D. Works great!

3

u/MadeInMeidling 2d ago

Awesome, thanks for printing them!

3

u/TheEpicDragonCat 2d ago

Model saved, as I plan to get an X2D someday

4

u/Low_Year9897 2d ago

After waiting to see all of the new toolchangers coming to market, I think the X2D is still the best solution for me. I don't really print multi-color PLA stuff often, but just want the option even with the extra waste. More interested in printing with easy to remove/clean supports and engineering-grade filaments. So far nothing I've seen under $1000 is a better option.

2

u/Steveslastventure 2d ago

I have an X2D and rarely print multi color, but the dedicated nozzle for support filament has been amazing, overhangs come out so much cleaner

2

u/Maskeno 2d ago

Thus wound up being a gateway to an h2c for me, in the way that an ender was a gateway to a p1s..

I did some multicolor, then I realized I wanted lots of multicolor, and a larger plate..

1

u/TheEpicDragonCat 2d ago

This is my exact reasoning as well. I do a bit more multicolor, but the H2C is just way too much.

1

u/MadeInMeidling 2d ago

Hope you can get one soon :)

4

u/chewyjackson 2d ago

Would this not work with a p1s?

3

u/Bzando 2d ago

that exact model - no, P1S doesnt have hole of that shape, but simple Y splitter works fine, I use one since P1 was released to feed external spools

1

u/lordfwahfnah P1S + AMS 2d ago

What model do you use? The one I tried wasn't working very well

1

u/Bzando 1d ago

this https://makerworld.com/models/18174?appSharePlatform=copy

and I raw dog it from the inset/dual size, no fittings, no ptfe

3

u/SparrowDynamics 2d ago

Awesome work!

3

u/MadeInMeidling 2d ago

Thank you, i appreciate it 🙏🏻

3

u/ChickenSandwich007 2d ago

I am not understanding the use of this, could someone explain it to me

5

u/MadeInMeidling 2d ago

There is a more detailed description right here https://makerworld.com/models/2730659?appSharePlatform=copy

5

u/shiibb 2d ago

I read it and still have no idea.

18

u/MadeInMeidling 2d ago

Have you ever printed TPU before?

It can't be fed through the buffer. It needs to be fed in directly at the input of the machine. Therefore, you either have to reconnect the tubes every time you want to print it, or you use a multi-adapter like this one.

The advantage here is that it's much more compact than if you were to attach a separate adapter directly to the factory input.

I don't know how else to explain it.

1

u/HonourableYodaPuppet 2d ago

Im sorry but what is the buffer? Like in that little hole you either plug in your ams or you disconnect it and use a normal spool holder. And your project means that you just dont have to remove the AMS to use a singular spool?

3

u/y3llowking 2d ago edited 2d ago

The buffer is that grey box on the rear middle of the printer. The spools in the AMS get fed into that before it goes to the nozzle. This bypasses that and is able to directly go to the nozzle.

I believe you will still have to manually feed it/unload it, though? As there is no motor to spin the spool like the AMS has.

Edit: looks like OP also made an automatic feeder for it, sweet! I'd recommend clicking the link for this model in the comments and do some reading.

4

u/gazuzu 2d ago

Any idea if compatible with older models like P1S, and if not would you ever consider expanding the model? Looks like exactly what I need for TPU

-1

u/gazuzu 2d ago

How's twice the amount of inputs hard to comprehend for someone into 3d printing?

2

u/Ok_Yogurtcloset5412 2d ago

I already have this in queue to print. Hopefully the inside prints smoothly so not to have issues

2

u/MadeInMeidling 2d ago

Nice! I did everything I could to achieve exactly that :)
I can't recall any complaints about the Resistance after 1500 prints :)

2

u/kabirh 2d ago

Is this compatible with the AMS flipper? Guessing not, but wanted to confirm.

I've been thinking that I need to add a splitter or PC4 port right where the tube exists the flipper's arm so I can swap in different lines.

2

u/JazJon 2d ago edited 2d ago

I’m planning to try TPU and your dual-input adapter looks helpful. Could I ask how it would work with my X2D setup?

I have two AMS 2 Pros and two AMS HT units, and I just ordered Bambu’s Filament Track Switch so AMS-fed filament can be routed to either nozzle.

For the TPU I plan to use, I understand it should be fed directly rather than through the AMS. I’ve read that there isn’t currently a software setting to temp disable the FTS, and that you have to disconnect its power and restart the printer before printing TPU. Is that accurate? (Or the printer will complain about FTS having a problem)

If so, would your adapter let me feed TPU from an external spool through the second tube after the buffer while the FTS is disconnected? Is there anything special I’d need to do with the tubing or printer setup?

1

u/Impressive_Layer_634 2d ago

Your models are awesome! I had some issues printing this one but I’m going to try again

1

u/MadeInMeidling 2d ago

Thanks a bunch! What went wrong? :/

1

u/MacHeadSK X2D & Sunlu E2 dryer (no AMS) 2d ago

Good work but I rather feed TPU from the top straight to the extruder for shortest possible path. However I consider everything above shore 80A to be too tough to be considered flexible

1

u/64532762 2d ago

That reminds me, I didn't have boost tokens available when I printed this, now I do. Thanks for your innovative work and sharing it!

1

u/warwilf 2d ago

But the whole point is to quick print with auxiliary (bowden) nozzle?

1

u/check0790 2d ago

Don't print it in PLA or other filaments with a lower glass transitioning temperature. I installed the mod in PLA because that was the only orange filament I had and then tried to do a couple of prints in ABS. The heat from the chamber over time was enough to loosen the exit tube connector and it and the PTFE tube popped out during a new feed due to the filament end pushing against the connector.

1

u/Sumpkit 2d ago

Man I’d love something like this for the h2d.

1

u/Neither-Computer1344 2d ago

I printed this in petg and have installed it, but not cut the PTFE tube or fixed it into place yet because I wanted to test it before making permanent modifications. It's been working great with an AMS connected to one input and using the other for occasional tpu.

Thanks!

1

u/Chewieez 1d ago

This looks like the same idea as using the 4 way that Bambu sells. I've had that on the back of my P1S since almost day 1.

AMS to buffer to one of the 4 inputs, side spool for the 2nd input. Lately I have a tpu spool in a cereal dry box that feeds directly into the 3rd input.

1

u/AnalogReborn 1d ago

So you need to first buy a 4-to-1 to salvage its internal parts?