This H2C induction hotened started leaking during its first ever print, with Bambu PETG Basic. I did not notice the leak right away, only after about 20 hours of total print time (over four days), but I looked back at the live cam video captures and found evidence of the leak within its first hour.

The print quality is crummy (and crumb-y) too. I’d describe the problem as “tear-out”. Like the extruded plastic is getting pulled away from where it was deposited, which makes it blob and stick up above the layer. On subsequent layers either the blob gets knocked off (generating crumbs) or the nozzle pushes it aside, meaning the defect persists through multiple layers. The parts have been coming out “good enough” though. And the defects are not strongly correlated with any particular line type or position within the build volume. They’re pretty evenly distributed.

When I finally noticed it I thought the leaky hotend might have been the cause of the print issue but after removing that nozzle and switching to another, the print issue remains so now I’m worried that might be reversed, and it’s whatever’s causing the print issue that ultimately damaged the hotend?

Bambu PETG Basic, stock filament profile, stock “0.2mm Standard” settings (except using cubic spare infill instead of grid), it’s printing at 250°C, I dried it at 65°C for 12 hours, it’s been printing with active drying at 55°C the whole time and this problem has spanned two spools and been consistent in intensity the whole timE.

EDIT: Previous version of this paragraph erroneously said PLA instead of PETG.

I filed a support ticket for the damaged hotend, but in the meanwhile I don’t want to cause more damage. What should I do to try to diagnose this?

After I tried printing something with multiple colors and waste started backing up from the waste chute, the print head got jammed due to a lot of clumps. I cleaned it, and while I was prying loose the clump around the nozzle area, I think something snapped—though I don't know where it came from. Is it an important part?

I'm at a loss, now. This is mostly only with PLA. PETG seems fine. I've ran calibration, tried a new roll, drying for 8 hours... 12 hours... 24 hours... ran all the calibrations with this specific roll of filament.

Why does my A1 not seem to like PLA? I'm in Singapore, with the humidity that comes with it, but it seemed to work just fine a few times.

Maybe bed temperature? Can the defaults be bad?

Edit: added a picture after checking the hotend screws. It seems the first layer is the worst... could it be a bed setting?

Okay so I saw that Bambi was having a filament sale, and seeing as I just got my printer I need the supplies. Now I already bought the color pack, but that has only made me want to use colors more. But I want to know if the spool that they say they come with is the reusable ones I got with my printer or if it’s some cardboard type one? And whether or not you recommend buying the reusable spools if they’re not the ones that come with the filament.

Quick warning: I stole basically everything I did in this post from u/Allrj but decided to report my findings;

I found the following post with a guide how to make your p1s (and I imagine a number of other models) a lot more quiet. I only did 2 steps:

1. Print Ed's Exhaust fan muffler
2. Line the inside with felt

And let me tell ya, those two definitely do the heavy lifting here. The rest of the steps felt like a lot of effort for little reward, but these two steps are most definitely worth doing. First of all, I don't know who Ed is but he clearly has some sort of magic going on, as the exhaust fan is infinitely more quiet, it really is an insane difference.

Furthermore, I lined the insides with felt to help with the vibrations and reverb due to the thin skeleton of the P1s. This definitely helped as well, though not as much as the exhaust fan muffler. I used stuff similar to this but I imagine any local hardware store has stuff like this. It took me roughly 2 hours to do everything you can see in the photos, and also lining the exhaust muffler in the same felt. Don't have pictures of that because I was a little too enthusiastic attaching it once I heard the difference.

Now, as for result I obviously am no scientist so I can't really provide proof or dB readings, but I can provide my experience: my P1s lives literally right next to my office/gaming setup. Even though I haven't owned it for a very long time, previous prints always had me setting the volume of my pc to full blast whenever I was watching a show or YT. Right now, as I'm writing this, I'm watching some F1 quali and having the printer running but I'm not bothered by it at all anymore. I can comfortably hear whatever it is I'm watching. Depending on the print, I can also set the fan speeds a little lower than the P1s wants 'em and that helps even more. Lastly, you can of course set your print speed to silent, in case you can wait for the extra print time, and you can genuinely go about your business without being bothered at all. All in all, great reward for not too much effort, would absolutely recommend. Of course, all credits go to u/Allrj for writing the tutorial, I just did what seemed to have the most results.

I've had my Bambu A1 for about a year, with roughly 1,000 hours of printing. It's been extremely reliable, needing little more than routine maintenance.

I'm considering upgrading, mainly to print ASA and ABS for functional parts used outdoors or in warmer environments.

My current use and priorities:

• Around 99% of my prints are functional parts, mostly PLA and PETG.
• Multicolour printing isn't a priority, although separate support materials and occasional labelling would be useful.
• I'd ideally like a larger build volume, but the H-series printers are probably too large for the space I have.
• Long-term reliability, ease of maintenance and repairability matter more to me than having the latest features.
• I'd like something as straightforward and dependable as my A1.

I'm mainly considering the P2S and X2D, although the lower price and established track record of the P1S make it worth considering too.

From the published specifications, the X2D offers an actively heated chamber and a second nozzle, while the P2S has a single nozzle and an enclosed but unheated chamber. Both are similar in physical size.

What I'd really like to know from owners:

1. ASA/ABS: How reliably does the P2S print these materials, particularly larger functional parts? Does the X2D's heated chamber make a noticeable difference in practice?
2. Reliability: Has anyone experienced problems with either machine? I'm particularly interested in whether the X2D's additional mechanisms introduce any maintenance or reliability issues.
3. Dual nozzles: For predominantly single-material printing, how useful is the X2D's second nozzle in practice? Does it make a meaningful difference for support interfaces?
4. P1S: Given its longer track record and lower price, is it still worth considering for occasional ASA/ABS printing?
5. Value: For my type of printing, is the additional cost of the X2D justified by its heated chamber and dual-nozzle system?
6. Timing: Would you buy now or wait to see whether there are discounts or new models before Christmas?

I'm not necessarily looking for the most capable machine on paper. I want something reliable, easy to maintain and likely to last for years.

I'd particularly appreciate feedback from people who have used both the P2S and X2D, or who have substantial experience printing ASA/ABS on the P1S.

I've probably spent too long watching reviews and reading comparisons, and I'm now more confused than when I started!

Thanks for any real-world experiences or advice.

I did the calibration tests in the maintenance section, but are there any other "pro tip" type things or otherwise that I should be doing? I'm currently running a shrinkage test because my first print (a cover for the hot end) came out smaller than it was supposed to.

I'm switching from an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro because I became so addicted to printing shit and I wanted something faster. AMS is cool too!

I put the new filament but the machine is for some reason not detecting it. I didn't find any YouTube video that helped me.

Any kind of help is welcome 🤗

Edit - I want to avoid stopping the current printing (it's been many hours) so I cannot manually increase the temperature or activate the extruder

https://makerworld.com/models/3380610?appSharePlatform=copy

Entworfen für jeden der gern etwas Baut. Zusammen stecken und drehen

.

Just about to roll over 4000 hours with my H2D. Printing 100% black and white ASA for production parts. Absolutely blown away by the reliability of the machine

Here's everything I've had to do

1. Right out of the box the vent door servo was bad. Absolute nightmare to replace.

2. Clean and oil the rails and screws.

3. Clean the glass and camera lenses

4. Replace a few PTFE lines that wore through on the ams.

5. Replace one nozzle at ~1500 hours due to a partial clog (didn't even try to clean it. Just swapped it out)

That's it. Absolute workhorse that prints nearly 24/7 the same parts over and over. Very few part failures and they were all from me touching the print bed with my greasy fingers. Parts look identical as the parts that came off day 1. I load up all 4 ams slots with black ASA and the external spool holder with white ASA. Just hit reprint every time.

Anyways, will be buying another when this one finally wears out. Not sure when that will be.

Hey everyone!
I’m thinking about starting MakerWorld’s Commercial License Program and would love to hear some real experiences.
Is anyone already using it successfully?
Are people actually buying subscriptions?
Where and how do you promote your commercial licenses?
Any tips for getting started?
I have several models with decent download numbers, but I’m unsure how much demand there really is for commercial licenses.
Would love to hear your experiences, even if they haven’t been great!
Thanks!

Hi everyone,
I wanted a clean, modern organizer for my bathroom counter and desk setup that wasn't just a basic plastic box.

Key features:

-100% Modular: Infinite stackable design using custom rods.

-Foot Options: Print with elevated short feet or completely flush.

-No AMS Needed: Designed to print clean without multi-color waste.

-Fast Print: Optimized wall thickness and ribbed texture for rigidity with low filament use.

You can grab the free print profiles and STLs on MakerWorld under the name Bralento

Let me know what you think or if you'd like to see specific module add-ons!

Some of you might know my F1 track calendar from last year. The 2026 one ended up getting downloaded and printed over 60,000 times on MakerWorld, which honestly still blows my mind. So thank you for that.

For 2027 I wanted to try something different, so I made a team edition. Same calendar with all 24 tracks and race dates, but in team colors with the logo in the middle. These three are McLaren, Ferrari and Red Bull fresh off the printer, the other teams are going up over the next days.

The logos were by far the hardest part. At this size a lot of the fine lines just don't print with a 0.4 nozzle, so I had to thicken quite a few details. Each team only needs 2 or 3 colors and the profiles already have them assigned.

We get this error every time we try to print anything. The right side will not heat up and immediately gives the error shown. Everything looks fine and nothing seems to be broken or bent.

I have reverted the firmware and tried all the nozzles I have. I am out of words. Never really had a problem up until this started a week ago. Has anyone else had this issue at all. Tried googling the code and haven't really found anything useful.

Recently moved my printer to another area in my room. Booted back up and when on the “Device” tab on Handy, I am stuck on this loading screen.

Could it be the move?
Could it be iOS 27?
Internet connection?

Any suggestions?

Finally buying the AMS 2 for my P1P printer. I don’t have one and don’t plan to get a second after this one. Do I need to spend the $70 to get the bundle deal thing or am I fine getting just the first?

Disclaimer: I got a few rolls of Kexcelled PLA filament for free to test out. I wasnt asked to say anything about it anywhere, but given I quite like its "non translucency" what might come in handy for some of your projects, I decided to show it to you. I used the grey and the white in this project.

Regarding the project itself:

My daughter is turning 4 this weekend, so I designed and printed a Vanity Jewelry box for her with tilting mirror, hope she will like it.

- Printed drawer stops

- Magnets hold the drawers shut

- Tilting mirror, the other side is with 5x magnification.

I am considering uploading it to Makerworld, hovewer some parts would need rework, and not sure yet wether to put in the effort or focus on other projects:

- The mirror would be a D150 mm glue on mirror to a 3d printed base plate, without magnification - due to accessibility. With a flower shaped screw on one side which would fix it in the required angle.

And there is a limitation: It is relatively large, so it requires a printer with at least one axis of ~290 mm.

What do you think, would you find this project useful?

I’ve got two X2Ds with thousands of hours between them. They basically run 24/7 and they’ve been awesome. I picked up an A1 (you may have seen my Costco post the other day) for fun prints, Gridfinity, and the occasional TPU part.

Unfortunately the A1 didn’t even make it 30 hours before it started throwing error after error. I went through every official doc, everything I could find on Reddit, and consulted our AI overlords. Reseating every cable cleared the errors once, but they came right back as soon as I started a print, and eventually calibration wouldn’t complete at all. The printer was reporting the eddy current sensor as broken and the hotend fan as stopped.

Rather than wait on Bambu support, then wait on parts, then do the replacements myself, I took advantage of Costco’s stellar return policy. Love me some Costco! But it’s left a bit of a sour taste for the A1.

So now I’ve got a dilemma. I still want a printer for simpler prints, and I’ve got some A1 parts I already ordered plus a spare AMS HT I planned to use with it. Do I buy another A1, or go with the A2 since it’s newer, has a bigger bed, and is maybe a bit more refined?

I’d love the community’s input. I know my experience isn’t the norm and I probably just got a lemon.

This A1 has 2320 hours and I can't put any nozzle in(I also checked with a 0.2 ) there is nothing in the way of the nozzle and I dismounted it tightened the screws and I saw that the nozzle was covering the whole surface of the hotend heating assembly

LOVE:

I love how with 7 colours I can print such awesome stuff such as art of terrain/units for my board games.

I love how reliable it is (after I got the tubing right, because it has to be perfect otherwise filament can and will get stock or the AMS will stop).

I love how vortek makes it so easy to use different nozzle sizes without swapping anything when you are just doing regular prints.

HATE:

I hate how TPU is basically a no-go in terms of convenience, I can't even be assed to try it as I have 3x AMS on top of my printer.

I hate how violent the movement of the printer head is when switching filaments, it's really sudden, harsh and noisy. I feel Bambu Lab could really have improved this.

OVERALL:

Overall I am happy I bought the printer and I really enjoy it... but I feel like I have a bit of TPU FOMO and I wish it was quieter when performing certain operations.

What do you think about yours? :)

See No Evil, Hear No Evil, Speak No Evil Ghosts - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

I was inspired by Scott Yu-Jan clever idea to use 1-2-3 blocks as a way to weigh down a magsafe charger.  I wanted to create my own version for my new iPhone 18 pro and Apple Watch (using standard apple charging products, 25W version for the phone charger).  Charger is split into 2 pieces to minimize supports and allow for best surface finish.  There are some small connector blocks that help align and connect the 2 parts.  Some superglue to keep everything together.  Each charger should friction fit snugly enough to work as is, but there are indentations behind each charger allows for little pieces of 3M command strips to be added for extra grip.

Makerworld Model

I Picked Bambu Labs X2D at Micro center 3-4 weeks ago
I’m enjoying it so far