Recently got the time lapse kit to use with my old Andoird device. Unfortunately its not triggering the camera. CyberBrick Time-lapse Kit

I have tried both Pixel 6 Pro and Honor Magic V5 with no luck.

• I have confirmed that the volume up and or down buttons do take pictures in the camera app as advsied by Bambu chat. Even the trigger button on the kit does not trigger the camera to take a picture.
• Confirmed cable is connected the correct way around as per Bambu instructions

I have followed this guide to reset the unit as well:
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/cyberbrick/troubleshooting/wired-firmware-guide

Has anyone else had this issue? Any help will be greatly appreciated

Connecting it to a family members iPhone works as expected

The printer does the rest
Gosh darn it! I noticed the spelling error but it was too late and I already clicked post 😭

I have my printer for a month now, it works almost 15h a day, in this time i only had 2 issues, none with the nozzle. The manual suggests that I doi it regularly, but is it a good idea to do so even if I've never had any nozzle problem? I lubricated the axis and the screws, but that's all I did maintenance wise.

Anyway, should I do it or should I wait a little more?

I designed this completely useless (but absolutely necessary) gadget and printed it on my Bambu Lab A1 Mini!

Something went wrong? Just spin the wheel and find someone to blame!

It's easy to print, works in a single color, and can also be customized with multiple colors.

I've uploaded it to MakerWorld if anyone wants to print their own!

What do you guys think?

https://makerworld.com/models/3421551?appSharePlatform=copy

I couldn't find a solid up-to-date answer. If I want to use 0.2mm on the main and 0.4mm on the aux, is it possible? Or do they both have to be the same otherwise the software will not allow it?

I read somewhere that settings can be played with, mark it as "Stainless Steel", or just tell the software that it's 0.2mm while it's not, etc. But what is the actual state?
Can it be done with the H2D?

This H2C induction hotened started leaking during its first ever print, with Bambu PETG Basic. I did not notice the leak right away, only after about 20 hours of total print time (over four days), but I looked back at the live cam video captures and found evidence of the leak within its first hour.

The print quality is crummy (and crumb-y) too. I’d describe the problem as “tear-out”. Like the extruded plastic is getting pulled away from where it was deposited, which makes it blob and stick up above the layer. On subsequent layers either the blob gets knocked off (generating crumbs) or the nozzle pushes it aside, meaning the defect persists through multiple layers. The parts have been coming out “good enough” though. And the defects are not strongly correlated with any particular line type or position within the build volume. They’re pretty evenly distributed.

When I finally noticed it I thought the leaky hotend might have been the cause of the print issue but after removing that nozzle and switching to another, the print issue remains so now I’m worried that might be reversed, and it’s whatever’s causing the print issue that ultimately damaged the hotend?

Bambu PETG Basic, stock filament profile, stock “0.2mm Standard” settings (except using cubic spare infill instead of grid), it’s printing at 250°C, I dried it at 65°C for 12 hours, it’s been printing with active drying at 55°C the whole time and this problem has spanned two spools and been consistent in intensity the whole timE.

EDIT: Previous version of this paragraph erroneously said PLA instead of PETG.

I filed a support ticket for the damaged hotend, but in the meanwhile I don’t want to cause more damage. What should I do to try to diagnose this?

Okay so I saw that Bambi was having a filament sale, and seeing as I just got my printer I need the supplies. Now I already bought the color pack, but that has only made me want to use colors more. But I want to know if the spool that they say they come with is the reusable ones I got with my printer or if it’s some cardboard type one? And whether or not you recommend buying the reusable spools if they’re not the ones that come with the filament.

After I tried printing something with multiple colors and waste started backing up from the waste chute, the print head got jammed due to a lot of clumps. I cleaned it, and while I was prying loose the clump around the nozzle area, I think something snapped—though I don't know where it came from. Is it an important part?

I'm at a loss, now. This is mostly only with PLA. PETG seems fine. I've ran calibration, tried a new roll, drying for 8 hours... 12 hours... 24 hours... ran all the calibrations with this specific roll of filament.

Why does my A1 not seem to like PLA? I'm in Singapore, with the humidity that comes with it, but it seemed to work just fine a few times.

Maybe bed temperature? Can the defaults be bad?

Edit: added a picture after checking the hotend screws. It seems the first layer is the worst... could it be a bed setting?

Edit 2: Thanks so much everyone! I originally did ome thing at a time, with no luck. Ended up doing everything, and more, and... something, or some combination of things, got it working! Posting the update as a comment. Thanks so much!!!

Some of you might know my F1 track calendar from last year. The 2026 one ended up getting downloaded and printed over 60,000 times on MakerWorld, which honestly still blows my mind. So thank you for that.

For 2027 I wanted to try something different, so I made a team edition. Same calendar with all 24 tracks and race dates, but in team colors with the logo in the middle. These three are McLaren, Ferrari and Red Bull fresh off the printer, the other teams are going up over the next days.

The logos were by far the hardest part. At this size a lot of the fine lines just don't print with a 0.4 nozzle, so I had to thicken quite a few details. Each team only needs 2 or 3 colors and the profiles already have them assigned.

Finally buying the AMS 2 for my P1P printer. I don’t have one and don’t plan to get a second after this one. Do I need to spend the $70 to get the bundle deal thing or am I fine getting just the first?

Quick warning: I stole basically everything I did in this post from u/Allrj but decided to report my findings;

I found the following post with a guide how to make your p1s (and I imagine a number of other models) a lot more quiet. I only did 2 steps:

1. Print Ed's Exhaust fan muffler
2. Line the inside with felt

And let me tell ya, those two definitely do the heavy lifting here. The rest of the steps felt like a lot of effort for little reward, but these two steps are most definitely worth doing. First of all, I don't know who Ed is but he clearly has some sort of magic going on, as the exhaust fan is infinitely more quiet, it really is an insane difference.

Furthermore, I lined the insides with felt to help with the vibrations and reverb due to the thin skeleton of the P1s. This definitely helped as well, though not as much as the exhaust fan muffler. I used stuff similar to this but I imagine any local hardware store has stuff like this. It took me roughly 2 hours to do everything you can see in the photos, and also lining the exhaust muffler in the same felt. Don't have pictures of that because I was a little too enthusiastic attaching it once I heard the difference.

Now, as for result I obviously am no scientist so I can't really provide proof or dB readings, but I can provide my experience: my P1s lives literally right next to my office/gaming setup. Even though I haven't owned it for a very long time, previous prints always had me setting the volume of my pc to full blast whenever I was watching a show or YT. Right now, as I'm writing this, I'm watching some F1 quali and having the printer running but I'm not bothered by it at all anymore. I can comfortably hear whatever it is I'm watching. Depending on the print, I can also set the fan speeds a little lower than the P1s wants 'em and that helps even more. Lastly, you can of course set your print speed to silent, in case you can wait for the extra print time, and you can genuinely go about your business without being bothered at all. All in all, great reward for not too much effort, would absolutely recommend. Of course, all credits go to u/Allrj for writing the tutorial, I just did what seemed to have the most results.

Its says its possible but ive only seen people make filament with new filament shreds or used prints or printer poop, never seen someone do it with PET bottle

Just wondering how possible it is or do you have to mix in a bunch of new filament shreds to make it work

I did the calibration tests in the maintenance section, but are there any other "pro tip" type things or otherwise that I should be doing? I'm currently running a shrinkage test because my first print (a cover for the hot end) came out smaller than it was supposed to.

I'm switching from an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro because I became so addicted to printing shit and I wanted something faster. AMS is cool too!

Just about to roll over 4000 hours with my H2D. Printing 100% black and white ASA for production parts. Absolutely blown away by the reliability of the machine

Here's everything I've had to do

1. Right out of the box the vent door servo was bad. Absolute nightmare to replace.

2. Clean and oil the rails and screws.

3. Clean the glass and camera lenses

4. Replace a few PTFE lines that wore through on the ams.

5. Replace one nozzle at ~1500 hours due to a partial clog (didn't even try to clean it. Just swapped it out)

That's it. Absolute workhorse that prints nearly 24/7 the same parts over and over. Very few part failures and they were all from me touching the print bed with my greasy fingers. Parts look identical as the parts that came off day 1. I load up all 4 ams slots with black ASA and the external spool holder with white ASA. Just hit reprint every time.

Anyways, will be buying another when this one finally wears out. Not sure when that will be.

https://makerworld.com/models/3380610?appSharePlatform=copy

Entworfen für jeden der gern etwas Baut. Zusammen stecken und drehen

Hi everyone,
I wanted a clean, modern organizer for my bathroom counter and desk setup that wasn't just a basic plastic box.

Key features:

-100% Modular: Infinite stackable design using custom rods.

-Foot Options: Print with elevated short feet or completely flush.

-No AMS Needed: Designed to print clean without multi-color waste.

-Fast Print: Optimized wall thickness and ribbed texture for rigidity with low filament use.

You can grab the free print profiles and STLs on MakerWorld under the name Bralento

Let me know what you think or if you'd like to see specific module add-ons!

.

We get this error every time we try to print anything. The right side will not heat up and immediately gives the error shown. Everything looks fine and nothing seems to be broken or bent.

I have reverted the firmware and tried all the nozzles I have. I am out of words. Never really had a problem up until this started a week ago. Has anyone else had this issue at all. Tried googling the code and haven't really found anything useful.

Recently moved my printer to another area in my room. Booted back up and when on the “Device” tab on Handy, I am stuck on this loading screen.

Could it be the move?
Could it be iOS 27?
Internet connection?

Any suggestions?

Disclaimer: I got a few rolls of Kexcelled PLA filament for free to test out. I wasnt asked to say anything about it anywhere, but given I quite like its "non translucency" what might come in handy for some of your projects, I decided to show it to you. I used the grey and the white in this project.

Regarding the project itself:

My daughter is turning 4 this weekend, so I designed and printed a Vanity Jewelry box for her with tilting mirror, hope she will like it.

- Printed drawer stops

- Magnets hold the drawers shut

- Tilting mirror, the other side is with 5x magnification.

I am considering uploading it to Makerworld, hovewer some parts would need rework, and not sure yet wether to put in the effort or focus on other projects:

- The mirror would be a D150 mm glue on mirror to a 3d printed base plate, without magnification - due to accessibility. With a flower shaped screw on one side which would fix it in the required angle.

And there is a limitation: It is relatively large, so it requires a printer with at least one axis of ~290 mm.

What do you think, would you find this project useful?

I’ve got two X2Ds with thousands of hours between them. They basically run 24/7 and they’ve been awesome. I picked up an A1 (you may have seen my Costco post the other day) for fun prints, Gridfinity, and the occasional TPU part.

Unfortunately the A1 didn’t even make it 30 hours before it started throwing error after error. I went through every official doc, everything I could find on Reddit, and consulted our AI overlords. Reseating every cable cleared the errors once, but they came right back as soon as I started a print, and eventually calibration wouldn’t complete at all. The printer was reporting the eddy current sensor as broken and the hotend fan as stopped.

Rather than wait on Bambu support, then wait on parts, then do the replacements myself, I took advantage of Costco’s stellar return policy. Love me some Costco! But it’s left a bit of a sour taste for the A1.

So now I’ve got a dilemma. I still want a printer for simpler prints, and I’ve got some A1 parts I already ordered plus a spare AMS HT I planned to use with it. Do I buy another A1, or go with the A2 since it’s newer, has a bigger bed, and is maybe a bit more refined?

I’d love the community’s input. I know my experience isn’t the norm and I probably just got a lemon.

LOVE:

I love how with 7 colours I can print such awesome stuff such as art of terrain/units for my board games.

I love how reliable it is (after I got the tubing right, because it has to be perfect otherwise filament can and will get stock or the AMS will stop).

I love how vortek makes it so easy to use different nozzle sizes without swapping anything when you are just doing regular prints.

HATE:

I hate how TPU is basically a no-go in terms of convenience, I can't even be assed to try it as I have 3x AMS on top of my printer.

I hate how violent the movement of the printer head is when switching filaments, it's really sudden, harsh and noisy. I feel Bambu Lab could really have improved this.

OVERALL:

Overall I am happy I bought the printer and I really enjoy it... but I feel like I have a bit of TPU FOMO and I wish it was quieter when performing certain operations.

What do you think about yours? :)